I hope this isnt what i think it is...

[the great him]

So I come out to my truck after an appointment and go to start it, and get a click that's it. Tried jumping it with the car built for an Asian midget parked next to me, same deal, click. All my lights work and are bright, the battery is a brand new yellow top, less than two weeks old. Started and stop the truck probably a dozen plus times today, no issues.
Yesterday I was out on a search and drove through a ton of water, puddles everywhere, some deep, some while going fast(40+mph) splashing water all over -belts would do the squeaky thing after puddles, but had no issues driver home after that for two hours on the hwy and around town several stops, fuel dinner ect. no issues. Today no issues, I've driven through much deeper water and plenty of puddles before with no issues. The only thing I can think of is I have not put my skids back on yet, and so the starter saw a lot more water than normal -normally my belts don't squeal when I go through puddles, I'm thinking that's cause the skids keep most of the splashing out.

Am I finally a victim of the starter contacts failing?

 

[JamesDean91]

Are you hearing the motor spin? Or just a click like the Bendix is actuating but no starter spinning.
I had similar issue last month found out a gear inside the starter stripped.

 

[the great him]

Are you hearing the motor spin? Or just a click like the Bendix is actuating but no starter spinning.
I had similar issue last month found out a gear inside the starter stripped.

Thanks yeah I can hear an ever so faint electric motor spin... Fml

 

[SV_Dude]

At least the starter is easy to replace. I would take it to a parts store and have it tested.

 

[the great him]

ok so took me about 20min, to get the starter free, i cant get it out though, do i have to pull the CV axle to get it out? i know i can get it through there, i just dont want to have to pull that if i dont have to...

 

[shootmymime]

ether that or check your ground to you batt. make sure you are pushing 12V.
i know you tried jumping it but try it again.
then go to the starter. you can also tap/ rattle the starter solenoid with a small hammer and long screw driver to see if it will catch.

 

[downpour11]

ok so took me about 20min, to get the starter free, i cant get it out though, do i have to pull the CV axle to get it out? i know i can get it through there, i just dont want to have to pull that if i dont have to...

No, you don't have to pull a CV. You should be able to wiggle it out after removing the tranny dipstick and IIRC a brake line bracket. It's a tight squeeze, you just gotta finagle it.

 

[the great him]

ether that or check your ground to you batt. make sure you are pushing 12V.
i know you tried jumping it but try it again.
then go to the starter. you can also tap/ rattle the starter solenoid with a small hammer and long screw driver to see if it will catch.

tried that for like 45 min, 3lb hammer and a 18" 3/8 extension, no dice

No, you don't have to pull a CV. You should be able to wiggle it out after removing the tranny dipstick and IIRC a brake line bracket. It's a tight squeeze, you just gotta finagle it.

thanks, i just talked to the father inlaw this is exactly what he said!

 

[Millerad1651]

I couldn't get my wife's out to save my life. That damn starter was the biggest PITA I've ever done. I rested it on the steering rack, and opened it up. After replacing the contacts, I put it all back and place and haven't had a problem since.
I read 10+ threads on how to get it out and I just couldn't get it. Then I helped Jmildoc do his, and we had it out in 10 minutes...through the wheel well. Move the brake line as far back as possible and you'll have just enough room...much much easier with two sets of hands.

 

[SV_Dude]

Mine was easy but I guess a manual tranny has more room?

 

[JWaldz]

The good ol' starter removal. One of the un-thought of pros to having a body lift

I had to replace mine after I sunk my 4Runner. I don't think it had to do with sinking it, I just think It was horrible timing. Anyways, my BL turned this hour+ long knuckle busting PITA to a simple 30 minute walk in the park replacement. As far as tips, I remove the tranny dipstick and upper tube portion along with the brake clip right there on the back of the frame. Kind of bend the brake line out of the way and maneuver the starter in a way that would make your wife/gf jealous. She'll eventually come free :eyebrows:

 

[the great him]

wasnt too hard, i did accently pinch a brake line so im gonna buy a new one tomorrow when i get the contacts, but had my started out in like 15min, it sure would of been easier with another set of hands. but i was more intimidated on this job by all the PITA threads about it, its really not that bad, now i just need to look at how to do the rebuild process... :noidea:

 

[JamesDean91]

Rebuilding is simple I went to the Vancouver Toyota and it was 68$ iirc but I also got the TRD O gasket as well as a new plunger instead of just contacts.

If you spin the Bendix does it spin one way or both directions? Should only spin one direction(not like the boy band Lol)

 

[TheDurk]

wasnt too hard, i did accently pinch a brake line so im gonna buy a new one tomorrow when i get the contacts, but had my started out in like 15min, it sure would of been easier with another set of hands. but i was more intimidated on this job by all the PITA threads about it, its really not that bad, now i just need to look at how to do the rebuild process... :noidea:

I just did this as part of my clutch job. Not hard at all to get it out of a manual. No dipstick, no exhaust bracket, no sway bar that needed to be messed with. One contact was 3/4 worn through so it was time. I just used the FSM pp. ST-12,13. I skipped the wood block and press and used the old plunger and a C-clamp to position the contacts while I tightened them. I just guessed at the pressure on the C-clamp but I did torque the terminal nuts to spec.(12 ft-lbs.).

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/st5vzfe/star/repl.pdf

You should have the 1.4kW starter on your five-speed, so be careful, one of the contacts is different from the larger 1.8 kW starter on the slushboxes. I used this kit from Amazon for the 1.4kW:

Amazon.com: Victory Lap ND-34SOL Solenoid Repair Kit: Automotive

...worked perfectly.

 

[4x4mike]

In my experience the starter contacts go bad over time. As in they go slowly. When I thought mine were going out I had time to actually think about and do some online reading about it. How has starting been for, say the past week opposed to the 24 hours prior to not starting?

I was reading about guys turning the key up to 30 times to get it started. Mine was never that bad and it was an easy repair. It seems some time has passed and things may have had a chance to dry out. Are there still starting problems?

As another one with a 5 speed, starter removal is a breeze.

 

[the great him]

last year i had some issues where i would have to give it 4 or 5 trys for a little while, it was right after some rains and diving through a lot of standing water ect. but it only lasted for a couple of days. other than that no issues at all. it was just all of the sudden boom no start, tried for probably 45 min, probably at 50 or 60 times, tried tapping on the starter to get it to work, nothing. ill let you all know how it turns out.

 

[criera]

Sorry i missed your call last night, sounds like you could have used some extra handles, give me a call if you still do.

 

[the great him]

Sorry i missed your call last night, sounds like you could have used some extra handles, give me a call if you still do.

no worries, i got it, its much easier than everyone makes it out to be, i was thinking this is something that i was gonna pay someone to do, so glad i didnt

 

[01thunder]

I just did this as part of my clutch job. Not hard at all to get it out of a manual. No dipstick, no exhaust bracket, no sway bar that needed to be messed with. One contact was 3/4 worn through so it was time. I just used the FSM pp. ST-12,13. I skipped the wood block and press and used the old plunger and a C-clamp to position the contacts while I tightened them. I just guessed at the pressure on the C-clamp but I did torque the terminal nuts to spec.(12 ft-lbs.).

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/st5vzfe/star/repl.pdf

You should have the 1.4kW starter on your five-speed, so be careful, one of the contacts is different from the larger 1.8 kW starter on the slushboxes. I used this kit from Amazon for the 1.4kW:

Amazon.com: Victory Lap ND-34SOL Solenoid Repair Kit: Automotive

...worked perfectly.

slushbox meaning auto? so the starters are different?

 

[the great him]

slushbox meaning auto? so the starters are different?

yes, and so are the internals -not sure if the contacts are different, but the power output is different -different motors.

not sure but i think the starters are interchangeable though, i know on older truck they are, like my 85, there are two different ones, and i just bought the bigger of the two when that started went out(if id of known it was this easy way back then id of just rebuilt it and called it good.