I know it's been asked... but I need help!

Confession: I'm not a car guy but I'm trying to learn. I'm new to the forum and have spent hours trying to understand the difference between spacers, springs, shocks and struts. But what I want to do seems different than what most people are doing. My 2012 SR5 is my daily commute. But it's also my getaway vehicle when I go backpacking with my boys, which often includes sections of 4wd roads. I hope to do more trips exploring mountain back roads with the family that are not accessible with 2WD vehicles. I am on a budget and so I can't afford the domino of suspension, wheels and tires. I currently riding on Michelin AT2 tires (P265/70/17) that were new when I purchased my used 4Runner. Bottom line... I don't want a 4Runner that looks like all the others. I want some more clearance for exploring off road. I want a good ride for daily commute. So how do I go about getting a 1.75-2inch lift in the front and a 1-1.5inch in the rear? Can I do this and accomplish my goals? I know it's not a full lift with larger tires like most people do, but I think this will work best for me. Am I crazy or does this sort of make sense? Any help would be appreciated and thank you for your patience as I try to work my way through the encyclopedia of information on this forum.


Haha... Excellent timing on this post. I can probably be of some help even though I'm just starting to do multiple posts on here. I am in the same exact boat you are in... And I've been researching for months now on my own. I currently have a 2014 TEP.... And just like you, am hoping to start doing some mild off-roading with my (young) son; mostly just trails and camping, etc. But at the moment, the Runner is a pavement princess.

At my age, practicality rules most of the time... So at 20K, my stock tires are still fine, don't need/want to sell them just yet. So I'm holding off in that department. I hate the factory rake, so I am fixing that issue while keeping the future in mind as well. I'm not trying to make mine look like most of the rigs on here... I like them... But it's not the right move for my lifestyle. Hence, I've decided to only do Bilstein 5100s at all four corners, and set the front ones to (only) .85. That'll level out the truck a bit, but leave a little rake for rear loads. All while giving me a better suspension for any mild off-roading that comes my way. This also leaves the truck low enough for my two year old daughter to still get in and out of.

Now then, in a few years, when the tires need to be replaced... We'll see how much off road use my Runner actually has seen (and the kids are a bit bigger), I may go full blown lift, etc.

My stuff won't be installed for a few weeks, but when I do, I will post plenty of before and after pics with measurements, so others can see what the results look like. Hopefully, it'll help other newbies make decisions as well.
 
Thanks to everyone for the input. My takeaway is this: Go big or go home.

If I want the look and off road clearance capability of a lifted 4Runner, I need to save my money and do the suspension and tires at the same time. Since I have AT tires and a limited budget, I might be best served with driving as is until I encounter something I can't do.
That being said, what about just leveling the front. I understand that I don't gain clearance but I think I like that look better. I have also noticed on hard brakes, the front end takes a nose dive. Would a leveling kit help that issue or am I just a bad driver.

A set of biltein 5100s set at lowest setting for level in the front is the best incremental leveling kit. Should only set you back $400 or so for all 4 corners, will improve the nose dive and look nice with stock wheels and tires. When/if you want to go bigger, you can start adding to the 5100s to make it a full 3" lift if you decide some day you want to go to bigger tires. As many others have said, the reason to lift is to get bigger shoes to gain the incremental ground clearance for more technical wheeling. I personally think 5100s on a mostly highway and lightly wheeled rig is a great combo and won't be a huge domino affect like other options can...
 
IMO with how you want to maintain as stock as possible, a good set of rock rails to protect your rockers and a portable air compressor to air up your tires after an air down would go a long long way towards offroad capability.

the stock runner is very capable, but nothing can make up for experience and driving expertise.

so, since you have a set of decent AT's. get a little armor and a good compressor and maybe look into taking an off road driving class OR consult a friend with more experience that can teach you some things.

as well, a solid investment would be a hidden winch mount and winch.
 
why lift it unless you are gonna run larger tires? 265s with a 3" lift has the same pumpkin clearance and 265s and no lift

I don't think the rear diff is the lowest point of a stock 4runner. Also, the vehicle height difference between a 265 and 285 is only .55 inches. The lift will help get everything else higher off the ground, but the reality is that the rear diff will never move very far.
 
diff clearance shouldn't even really be a concern anyway. when was the last time you weren't able to drag your diff over something?
 
It wont increase the ground clearance between wheels on the same axle, but it can increase your break over angle and your approach and departure angle. i.e. you will be able to go up a steeper incline without dragging your hitch or scraping your front bumper. So it is not a lost cause to get a lift, ...

What MTN4RNR said is true. A lift will improve approach, departure and break over angles. It will raise the frame so most of the expensive, must-work components like the transfer case, gas tank, exhaust, spare tire, bumpers and front skid of the car are higher off the ground. It does not raise the axles so the ground clearance at the front and rear differentials are the same. You need to be careful about scraping the diff over high rocks at the center of the road by driving your wheels over the high points, and other maneuvers that involve more skill than it is about the upgrades. Adding larger tires only lifts the diff by half of the difference in tire circumference. A 32" tire is only 1/2" higher than a 31" tire. But to add larger tires it can be helpful to lift the vehicle.

If you get out with a local 4-wheeling group you can learn some of those 4x4 skills first hand.
 
What MTN4RNR said is true. A lift will improve approach, departure and break over angles. It will raise the frame so most of the expensive, must-work components like the transfer case, gas tank, exhaust, spare tire, bumpers and front skid of the car are higher off the ground. It does not raise the axles so the ground clearance at the front and rear differentials are the same. You need to be careful about scraping the diff over high rocks at the center of the road by driving your wheels over the high points, and other maneuvers that involve more skill than it is about the upgrades. Adding larger tires only lifts the diff by half of the difference in tire circumference. A 32" tire is only 1/2" higher than a 31" tire. But to add larger tires it can be helpful to lift the vehicle.

If you get out with a local 4-wheeling group you can learn some of those 4x4 skills first hand.

Front diff goes up with a lift, just not rear. That's the beauty of the IFS.
 
Also, the vehicle height difference between a 265 and 285 is only .55 inches.
while I agree it is negligible you can stat .55" because it depends on brand/type of tire... but yes it is negligible that is why I said tire/lift combination is what will get you the best results
 
Confession: I'm not a car guy but I'm trying to learn. I'm new to the forum and have spent hours trying to understand the difference between spacers, springs, shocks and struts. But what I want to do seems different than what most people are doing. My 2012 SR5 is my daily commute. But it's also my getaway vehicle when I go backpacking with my boys, which often includes sections of 4wd roads. I hope to do more trips exploring mountain back roads with the family that are not accessible with 2WD vehicles. I am on a budget and so I can't afford the domino of suspension, wheels and tires. I currently riding on Michelin AT2 tires (P265/70/17) that were new when I purchased my used 4Runner. Bottom line... I don't want a 4Runner that looks like all the others. I want some more clearance for exploring off road. I want a good ride for daily commute. So how do I go about getting a 1.75-2inch lift in the front and a 1-1.5inch in the rear? Can I do this and accomplish my goals? I know it's not a full lift with larger tires like most people do, but I think this will work best for me. Am I crazy or does this sort of make sense? Any help would be appreciated and thank you for your patience as I try to work my way through the encyclopedia of information on this forum.

In my opinion, with the tires you currently have...you really shouldn't need to do anything to your 4R, to do moderate off-roading.

I took my 2014 4Runner over Hagerman Pass shortly after I purchased my 4Runner, using stock tires. It started to rain about 1/3 through the drive, so the one section that required 4-Low was interesting, but the 4Runner handled it without any issues, nor any clearance problems despite the rocks looking like I'd scrape the skids here and there.

I now have good AT tires and have taken the truck over some more-difficult terrain and have yet to come close to needing any additional clearance.

That said, I do plan to do a ToyTec Boss lift in another 50,000 miles (after i cross the 100K mark) to allow me to get to some even more remote locations for photography.

Unless you are getting into some pretty hairy stuff, your 4Runner should handle things quite nicely. IF you have some example roads/trails that you wish to drive, but have not done yet as you have concerns on clearance, etc. please share so that others that may have driven those can give you more information/suggestions.
 
while I agree it is negligible you can stat .55" because it depends on brand/type of tire... but yes it is negligible that is why I said tire/lift combination is what will get you the best results

I just base the .55" off of our lovely tire fitment guide, you are correct, the actual difference will depend on which tires you are going from/to.
 
Haha... Excellent timing on this post. I can probably be of some help even though I'm just starting to do multiple posts on here. I am in the same exact boat you are in... And I've been researching for months now on my own. I currently have a 2014 TEP.... And just like you, am hoping to start doing some mild off-roading with my (young) son; mostly just trails and camping, etc. But at the moment, the Runner is a pavement princess.

At my age, practicality rules most of the time... So at 20K, my stock tires are still fine, don't need/want to sell them just yet. So I'm holding off in that department. I hate the factory rake, so I am fixing that issue while keeping the future in mind as well. I'm not trying to make mine look like most of the rigs on here... I like them... But it's not the right move for my lifestyle. Hence, I've decided to only do Bilstein 5100s at all four corners, and set the front ones to (only) .85. That'll level out the truck a bit, but leave a little rake for rear loads. All while giving me a better suspension for any mild off-roading that comes my way. This also leaves the truck low enough for my two year old daughter to still get in and out of.

Now then, in a few years, when the tires need to be replaced... We'll see how much off road use my Runner actually has seen (and the kids are a bit bigger), I may go full blown lift, etc.

My stuff won't be installed for a few weeks, but when I do, I will post plenty of before and after pics with measurements, so others can see what the results look like. Hopefully, it'll help other newbies make decisions as well.

Please send some pictures my way! After receiving all the advice, this seems like its exactly what I need to do. Although I don't gain ground clearance, it seems as if I have a better look w/o the 2in rake by installing the 5100s on all 4 and lifting the front the .85. It allows me to keep my tires, is within my budget and may give me an overall better ride. I can do some protection upgrades, like sliders, and then get me a good rack to top it all off. I would feel real good if I can swing all that one day.

To all the veterans and experts on the forum, this new guy really appreciates your feedback. I'm learning a lot and taking in all the feedback. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
 
Please send some pictures my way! After receiving all the advice, this seems like its exactly what I need to do. Although I don't gain ground clearance, it seems as if I have a better look w/o the 2in rake by installing the 5100s on all 4 and lifting the front the .85. It allows me to keep my tires, is within my budget and may give me an overall better ride. I can do some protection upgrades, like sliders, and then get me a good rack to top it all off. I would feel real good if I can swing all that one day.

You will probably want to get more aggressive tires at some point. Those Michelins are nice, but they are basically just a glorified all season tire.
 
Not trying to hijack this thread, but as the general consensus seems to be Bilstein 5100s for mild leveling, can someone help me understand the impact to on- and offroad ride and handling characteristics compared to stock (Limited) X-REAS?
 
I'm in a similar situation with a 2011 SR5, and your wheeling needs almost exactly match my own. A daily driver with occasional 4x4 needs on rocky roads.

First off, as you are in an area with rocks (Denver), put me on the side that a lift alone does increase ground clearance in the form of breakover and approach angles plus increased front skid clearance. Even a cheap spacer lift (my Daystar lift cost $140, and I installed it myself) will accomplish that, but it is not for serious wheeling because you lose wheel articulation. If you can afford it go for the Bilsteins with your stock springs, which will run about $400 (plus installation unless you can do it yourself).

Next comes trim. My early wheeling was always painful because of trim dragging; the early SR5 models came with the same low-hanging trim as the Limited. I damaged the front air dam my first time off road. Then I damaged it again, and again, and finally I took it off and threw it away. Being gone makes oil changes easier anyway. And my OEM running boards kept dragging. Finally, I figured out that if I removed them they wouldn't drag (duh). Easy process. Six bolts each side takes off the running boards. Three more bolts plus two screws each side gets the rocker trim, and all four pieces can wait safely in my garage. There's a how-to-guide somewhere on this site. The 2.5/1.5 lift plus removing the boards and trim gives me at least 8(!!) more inches of clearance at the rocker panels.

My avatar pic is pre mods. That trip is the one where I whacked the front bracket on the driver's side running board which bent my rocker panel.
 
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I'm in a similar situation with a 2011 SR5, and your wheeling needs almost exactly match my own. A daily driver with occasional 4x4 needs on rocky roads.

First off, as you are in an area with rocks (Denver), put me on the side that a lift alone does increase ground clearance in the form of breakover and approach angles plus increased front skid clearance. Even a cheap spacer lift (my Daystar lift cost $140, and I installed it myself) will accomplish that, but it is not for serious wheeling because you lose wheel articulation. If you can afford it go for the Bilsteins with your stock springs, which will run about $400 (plus installation unless you can do it yourself).

Next comes trim. My early wheeling was always painful because my OEM running boards kept dragging. The early SR5 models came with the same low-hanging trim as the Limited. Finally, I figured out that if I removed them they wouldn't drag (duh). Easy process. Nine bolts plus two screws each side and my running boards and rocker trim pieces are waiting safely in my garage. There's a how-to-guide somewhere on this site. The 2.5/1.5 lift plus removing the boards and trim gives me at least 8(!!) more inches of clearance at the rocker panels. My next upgrade will be rocker slides.

How does that look when you take the rocker panels off? Do you expect the sliders to cover the "untrimmed" space previous occupied by the panels?
 

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