I picked at my valve cover sludge!

seangrdn

New member
I disturbed my engine sludge, need advice.

I just purchased my first 4 runner!
99 sr5 3.4 auto 135k miles. It has some issues but the price was quite low.

I'm changing my valve cover gaskets and noticed some sludge deposits on the covers and on the heads. Being new to doing more than basic maintenance, I didn't realize that it was not a good idea to pick the chunks of crud out.

After I did it (both sides) I felt uneasy and did some research. Seems I should have left it alone but the damage is done. There's lots of little bits that are now dislodged but unable to.be reached.

My plan is to get everything I can (I had the covers soaked and cleaned at a shop), reassemble, add some seafoam, let it idle for a while, change the oil and filter, clean the pan out, check the pickup screen and change my oil very regularly until it starts coming out clean.

Any suggestions? I've searched a ton but just find "don't pick at the sludge".

Any advice on Seafoam vs atf vs flush products vs leave it and use synthetic oil?

Here's some pics if it helps.

Thanks in advance.
Sean
 

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Hi Sean,

I have seen worse in cars that have ran for long periods of time.

I think you have a good plan. If it was me I would just do 1500 mile oil changes using a good cleaning oil such as Pennzoil in the yellow bottle for 4 or 5 times, then look under the valve covers again. The key is to get all the sludge out slowly using clean, fresh oil. Make sure you definitely get in some highway driving. Using Seafoam could loosen up the crud too quickly and all at once, causing more problems than what you have now.

I have seen people use Shop Vacs to vacuum out loose sludge.

Why people don't change their oil regularly is beyond my comprehension, but it happens.
 
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/Thread Jack

Wow how often do you think they changed the oil?

Here's my original heads with 250,xxx miles- no sludge at all. I guess I was just lucky with mine
1998 4Runner 404.jpg

End Thread Jack/
 

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I purchased it from a wholesaler who picked it up from a dealer. He claimed to know nothing about the history. It would appear the vehicle had been poorly maintained for the last few years. No idea how often they changed the oil. It had fresh oil when I bought it.


I'm hoping that it was taken care of before the previous owner and with a little love it'll bounce back.
 
I'd use a shop vac first. Get a thin hose and duct tape it into the hose of the shop vac. Something small enough to get into where you want.

I would think the Seafoam spray type would liquify it, but let others that know better verify that won't cause an issue.
 
By all means if you want to drop the oil pan you can really gauge just how bad the sludge is. You definitely don't want anything blocking the pick up screen. It isn't a walk on the park to drop the oil pan; I haven't done it myself.

I'd try to suck out as much sludge as possible, then run the new oil. I have read on different forums that Pennzoil has good cleaning abilities and should work for you application.

If you plan to buy more used cars in the future invest in a video inspection camera. That way you can look down the PCV hole and or the oil fill hole to check the condition of the upper valve train. Mine has been worth its weight in gold.
 
If you plan to buy more used cars in the future invest in a video inspection camera. That way you can look down the PCV hole and or the oil fill hole to check the condition of the upper valve train. Mine has been worth its weight in gold.

Out of curiosity, which camera did you get, and do you recommend it?
 
By all means if you want to drop the oil pan you can really gauge just how bad the sludge is. You definitely don't want anything blocking the pick up screen. It isn't a walk on the park to drop the oil pan; I haven't done it myself.

I'd try to suck out as much sludge as possible, then run the new oil. I have read on different forums that Pennzoil has good cleaning abilities and should work for you application.

If you plan to buy more used cars in the future invest in a video inspection camera. That way you can look down the PCV hole and or the oil fill hole to check the condition of the upper valve train. Mine has been worth its weight in gold.

I am interested in what camera you are using. I'd like to get my hands on one. Sounds like a great idea for used car shoppers.
 
Do you think it's worth dropping the oil pan each time to collect the sludge?

Definitely not worth it each time. If you drive the truck and find the oil light flickering or stuck on, shut it off and consider pulling the pan to clean the screen. Beyond that, I'd leave it alone unless you feel like pulling it at the very end of your plan just to put the cherry on top.
 
I use a Snap On 6000. A friend of mine has a pawn shop outside of Richmond that when he gets good tools in on pawn or from a sale, he lets me know. Plus I have access to a SO truck when needed.

If I were going to buy one otherwise, I'd choose the Whistler. A neighbor has one, I think this model or possibly a 5200 model, and got it from AA with their coupon for just under $100.
https://www.whistlergroup.com/wic-5100.html

They are an invaluable tool when working with engines IMHO. I have been asked nicely and not nicely to leave used car lots when I have pulled it out to see what lurked underneath valve covers and the like.
 
The camera route would be the way to go...I dropped my pan last month and it took a cool 4-5 hours to do. The diff has to come out so you end up pulling apart the knuckles so you can get the cv's out of the diff. The diff is in there nice and tight too.
 
Thanks for the help everyone! It's great to have some support and as I learn more I'll do my best to help others new to 4runner maintenance and repair.
 
When I got my 4Runner the oil was as black as night. Was very sludgey.

First thing I did after driving it home was take it in for an oil change. I asked the tech to use an engine flush. Unlike driving with Seafoam, you only put it in for about 5-10 min at idle (see bottle for directions) and then immediately change the oil so the crud doesn't have a chance to go anywhere.

A few weeks later I opened up the valve covers to fix and oil leak and the whole engine was sparkly clean. I highly recommend it. Just be ok with possibly changing a few gaskets or seals afterwards, since most likely that sludge was keeping the oil in the engine. I also changed the oil again at about 2000 miles after that.
 

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