I would love your suggestions...

bigdonniebrasco

bigdonniebrasco

New member
As some of you know I just picked up my very first 4runner!!

1999 limited.

I am NOT a mechanic by anyone's definition!!!!

I had my mechanic do:

*Lower ball joints
*Water pump
*Timing belt
*drain flush tranny and radiator

I replaced the air filter :high5: maybe I AM a mechanic!!

I bought plugs, and wires, sway bar bushings, and two sway bar bushing end links, as the one on the passenger side was in need!! * I hope they aren't specific to either side, I just ordered 2 of the ones recommended!


QUESTIONS.....

I am going to be taking it MILDLY off road in October for an antelope hunt in Wyoming. In the name of reliability or suspension and drive-train what would you be checking if you were in my shoes?

Are coil packs something that is a maintenance item or just wait til it breaks item?

ALL of the fluids are new to include diffs.

Doesn't appear to have any sag, but I'm not hauling any weight for my hunt (hopefully a cooler full of speed-goats on the return trip).

Frame is good.

I just don't know what I don't know.

Thanks guys!!

Don
 

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Well this is the joy of owning a Toyota. You dont have to really worry about much but general maintenance. Research pink milkshake where the radiator fails destroying trans. Lower ball joints like to fail which I see you have done. Rear axle oil seals like to leak but if you brakes are dry I would not worry abou t it.
 
JayRolla said:
Well this is the joy of owning a Toyota. You dont have to really worry about much but general maintenance. Research pink milkshake where the radiator fails destroying trans. Lower ball joints like to fail which I see you have done. Rear axle oil seals like to leak but if you brakes are dry I would not worry abou t it.
Click to expand...

Yes! Do as Jay suggest.

I would invest in an external trans cooler just to avoid the pink milkshake.

Did you at least use OEM lower ball joints?
 
Justin727 said:
Yes! Do as Jay suggest.

I would invest in an external trans cooler just to avoid the pink milkshake.

Did you at least use OEM lower ball joints?
Click to expand...


Absolutely !! :)

I have actually READ 1,000,000,000 posts on this site so I knew to do that much :)


As for the trans cooler.... would you recommend that even if I am not doing any real off-roading or pulling yet?

Thanks for the input!
 
bigdonniebrasco said:
Absolutely !! :)

I have actually READ 1,000,000,000 posts on this site so I knew to do that much :)


As for the trans cooler.... would you recommend that even if I am not doing any real off-roading or pulling yet?

Thanks for the input!
Click to expand...

I recommend at least replacing radiator. The cooler is more for piece of mind because it completely bypasses the radiator. I have yet to add cooler but will one day for that piece of mind.
 
bigdonniebrasco said:
Absolutely !! :)

I have actually READ 1,000,000,000 posts on this site so I knew to do that much :)


As for the trans cooler.... would you recommend that even if I am not doing any real off-roading or pulling yet?

Thanks for the input!
Click to expand...

Good question. Yes, this is a place where bypassing the trans-cooler in the stock radiator can benefit you under normal driving. But, I would say that, if your radiator has been replaced any time in the last 50,000 miles, it doesn't need to be your highest concern.

Lubing the drive shaft joints is another area that would be good maintenance.
 
What about coil packs... wait til I get a code ?

Doing plugs and wires this week.

Any benefit in cleaning the MAF sensor if I have no codes and get 22 mpg?
 
bigdonniebrasco said:
What about coil packs... wait til I get a code ?

Doing plugs and wires this week.

Any benefit in cleaning the MAF sensor if I have no codes and get 22 mpg?
Click to expand...

Coil packs are long-lasting pieces of equipment. Don't replace them unless there is evidence that one or more is failing.

There might or might not be any benefit to cleaning the MAF. If your engine is running smoothly, it has good power, and you get good mileage, I probably wouldn't spend the 15 minutes to clean it. It should be cleaned from time to time; probably at the same intervals when the air filter is changed.
 
bigdonniebrasco said:
What about coil packs... wait til I get a code ?

Doing plugs and wires this week.

Any benefit in cleaning the MAF sensor if I have no codes and get 22 mpg?
Click to expand...

This is a toyota. Electronics can last 300k+ miles easily. Dont swap it till it needs it. This is where you also want to keep staying OEM.

Now if this was a domestic I would recommend changing coils every 100k miles. I speak from experience about to spend all day Sat changing coils and plugs on wifes for Expedition with a 5.4l Triton. Plugs are a huge task on this motor, not looking forward to it.
 
I would have the valves gaps checked to be sure they are in range. If an exhaust valve is too tight (gap UNDER the range) you could soon end up with a burnt valve (not good).
 
bigdonniebrasco said:
Absolutely !! :)

I have actually READ 1,000,000,000 posts on this site so I knew to do that much :)


As for the trans cooler.... would you recommend that even if I am not doing any real off-roading or pulling yet?

Thanks for the input!
Click to expand...

As stated above. It's not necessarily added for towing or because of Off-roading. But to bypass the cooler in the radiator to avoid the pink milk shake all together. Again Piece of mind.

Cleaning the maf as stated, Clean the Throttle plate, Also get a new oem PCV valve, grommet, and hose for the PCV valve (this is commonly overlooked).

I replaced my fuel filter too although Toyota claims lifetime. Not sure if you've done diff fluids and transfer case fluid yet?

Still rocking OEM coils at 256K. Don't replace them unless they start to miss/code
 
I would replace the radiator, radiator cap, and/or add trans cooler, replace thermostat and gasket, replace fuel filter and replace rear diff breather. Get a Scangauge2 to monitor temps, pressure, etc... It's like a fitbit for your T4R. Tundra brake upgrade and bleed the brakes, use Dot4 synthetic to refill, power steering fluid drain and replace (DextronIII ATF) using turkey baster method.
 
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bigdonniebrasco said:
What about coil packs... wait til I get a code ?

Doing plugs and wires this week.

Any benefit in cleaning the MAF sensor if I have no codes and get 22 mpg?
Click to expand...

RE: plugs and wires

make sure you use the OE-spec dual electrode NGKs. I also highly recommend OEM sparkplug wires over even something like NGK, which i otherwise hold in high regard. Reason being, I had some wet-weather misfires, traced to a mis-formed plug boot. Bought OEM on amazon Prime for $60, everything clicks into place perfectly. It's just a real pleasure to install factory parts that were made exactly for the vehicle. And for just $20 more than the next best aftermarket option!
 
JayRolla said:
This is a toyota. Electronics can last 300k+ miles easily. Dont swap it till it needs it. This is where you also want to keep staying OEM.

Now if this was a domestic I would recommend changing coils every 100k miles. I speak from experience about to spend all day Sat changing coils and plugs on wifes for Expedition with a 5.4l Triton. Plugs are a huge task on this motor, not looking forward to it.
Click to expand...

why let the wife drive a domestic!? :(
 
That's a great looking truck. Looks very clean. Where in wy are you pronghorn hunting? I live in Cheyenne.

Your coils don't appear to be sagging, like you said. And it looks like you've covered the necessary maintenance. As long as the shocks are good you'll be fine off road. A stock 3rd gen will do mild mountain trails no problem. I've done many of the trails in the mountain range near Cheyenne and my truck is basically stock.
 
1985taylor1925 said:
That's a great looking truck. Looks very clean. Where in wy are you pronghorn hunting? I live in Cheyenne.
.
Click to expand...

I'm going wherever you can set me up with a landowner! ;)

My plan right now is to fight it out on public land just east of Buffalo.

Nothing more than dirt roads as far as off-roading goes.

You hunt?
 
I'd take off the side TRD decal... I had one but then realized it was dumb because it's not a TRD so why have it and it just looks a whole lot cleaner
 
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