ICON Vehicle Dynamics 1996 – 2002 Toyota 4Runner Suspension Systems

Anyone know how the cdc system works out if it is only installed on the rear? I already have the rear remotes so that upgrade once I need a rebuild does not cost that much. Upgrading the front to remote res then upgrading to the cdc's is costly though expecially since our rigs really don't need the front remote res. I would like to take out some of the 'harshness' from my setup and I'm sure the cdc clicker system will do that.

This is how mines set up. I up them when rear is loaded.
 
[MENTION=109102]MattJakobs[/MENTION] [MENTION=57546]4-Ripcord[/MENTION] be sure to post up your installs here when installed! There are a lot of people who would love to see them :)
 
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Youre 4Runner is looking amazing. How is the setup treating you, hows the ride?

Meant to respond to this a while ago, thanks for reminding me.

The front is excellent. Fantastic high frequency/low amplitude response from the damper while having very well tuned spring rate for the low frequency/high amplitude inputs. Still on the stock front bumper, I am hoping that the relative low weight of the steel bumper I will be using will not upset this performance too much. I will not be running a winch.

In the rear, I have to remind myself that I am using land cruiser shocks. The current performance has a higher damping force than I would want. Once I get the tire carrier bumper on the rear end I have high hopes for the feeling. I will update once I know.
 
Meant to respond to this a while ago, thanks for reminding me.

The front is excellent. Fantastic high frequency/low amplitude response from the damper while having very well tuned spring rate for the low frequency/high amplitude inputs. Still on the stock front bumper, I am hoping that the relative low weight of the steel bumper I will be using will not upset this performance too much. I will not be running a winch.

In the rear, I have to remind myself that I am using land cruiser shocks. The current performance has a higher damping force than I would want. Once I get the tire carrier bumper on the rear end I have high hopes for the feeling. I will update once I know.

Oh yeah bro, frequency and stuff. Amplitude etc. The damper is terrific. The inputs are out of this world.



I bet less than two dozen people on this forum have any idea what your post means. I've heard of frequency and have seen a chart of what frequency trophy trucks, street trucks, cars, etc usually run, but I have no idea what any of it means.
 
Oh yeah bro, frequency and stuff. Amplitude etc. The damper is terrific. The inputs are out of this world.



I bet less than two dozen people on this forum have any idea what your post means. I've heard of frequency and have seen a chart of what frequency trophy trucks, street trucks, cars, etc usually run, but I have no idea what any of it means.

Hahaha very true. I understand how the terms and know what they mean, but I don't understand what they mean in relation to suspensions. I'm sure if I read it again and actually thought about it I would be able to figure it out, but I think moral of the story is his truck rides very well.
 
OP quick question. I want to upgrade my front suspension, I currently have rusted out OEM 882 springs with I believe nitrocharger shocks.

I wanted to get your coil over kits with Res, but i dont want the hassle of having to rebuild the coilovers every 2 or 3 years.. I work around gravel roads and do a lot of highway driving (1200km) per week, and considering snow and salt used on the highways.
How durable and likely for it to rust out, within the year or 2?

I bought brand new rear suspension (LC80 9 wrap lift with Tokico Oem shocks) and Sonoran LCA and UCA for the rears last year and they are all completely rusted out and i usually wash my car every weekend. ( I hate Canadian winters).

And how would your front kits handle with an Lc lift?
 
OP quick question. I want to upgrade my front suspension, I currently have rusted out OEM 882 springs with I believe nitrocharger shocks.

I wanted to get your coil over kits with Res, but i dont want the hassle of having to rebuild the coilovers every 2 or 3 years.. I work around gravel roads and do a lot of highway driving (1200km) per week, and considering snow and salt used on the highways.
How durable and likely for it to rust out, within the year or 2?

I bought brand new rear suspension (LC80 9 wrap lift with Tokico Oem shocks) and Sonoran LCA and UCA for the rears last year and they are all completely rusted out and i usually wash my car every weekend. ( I hate Canadian winters).

And how would your front kits handle with an Lc lift?

I think I can field a couple of these questions....

"I wanted to get your coil over kits with Res, but i dont want the hassle of having to rebuild the coilovers every 2 or 3 years.."
Sorry mate, rebuilding is part of the game. With a bit of research it's not very expensive to do yourself... I plan on doing mine the next time they need it. It's essentially replacing a bunch of big o-rings and seals. I watched the guy do it last time I had them done and was like wtf...that's it?!

"How durable and likely for it to rust out, within the year or 2?"
If you're worried about them rusting out they also sell neoprene "shock wraps" that go around the coilover to keep them clean and out of the elements. If I were you I'd just take the covers off, spray them down with degreaser, and hose them off whenever you wash your car.

"And how would your front kits handle with an Lc lift?"
You'll quickly notice how inferior your rear shocks are. When the Icons start putting in work you'll feel the rear end failing to keep up, and just not feeling right. It's a feeling that's hard to explain...

If your rear shocks are rusted out Icon also has an aluminum line of 2" shocks for the rear. For an Icon product they're pretty reasonably priced at a little more than $150 per shock. I forget the exact price.
 
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I think I can field a couple of these questions....

"I wanted to get your coil over kits with Res, but i dont want the hassle of having to rebuild the coilovers every 2 or 3 years.."
Sorry mate, rebuilding is part of the game. With a bit of research it's not very expensive to do yourself... I plan on doing mine the next time they need it. It's essentially replacing a bunch of big o-rings and seals. I watched the guy do it last time I had them done and was like wtf...that's it?!

"How durable and likely for it to rust out, within the year or 2?"
If you're worried about them rusting out they also sell neoprene "shock wraps" that go around the coilover to keep them clean and out of the elements. If I were you I'd just take the covers off, spray them down with degreaser, and hose them off whenever you wash your car.

"And how would your front kits handle with an Lc lift?"
You'll quickly notice how inferior your rear shocks are. When the Icons start putting in work you'll feel the rear end failing to keep up, and just not feeling right. It's a feeling that's hard to explain...

If your rear shocks are rusted out Icon also has an aluminum line of 2" shocks for the rear. For an Icon product they're pretty reasonably priced at a little more than $150 per shock. I forget the exact price.

Thanks for the input! I agree its part of the game thats why I try to stay away from looking at coilover kits, but they look so nice! I barely go off-roading maybe 1 or twice a month.

Yeah i just dont want to revamp my whole rear end, since i just did it last year, from springs to everything i can think of. and it sucks to see it rusting out within a year.

But ill look into it and do a bit more research. Since im doing my whole front end maintenance/ upgrades this spring or summer
 
"jargon"

Rip-" Fantastic high frequency/low amplitude response from the damper while having very well tuned spring rate for the low frequency/high amplitude inputs"

Me- "Goes over bumps good."
 
ICON used to offer an all weather coating, but no longer offers it as over the past 2 years or so they have perfected a cadmium coating that keeps them looking nice for years. For added protection, we always suggest waxing the coilovers & shock bodies prior to installing them.

Rebuilding your shocks is part of having such high performance pieces. They are meant to provide the best control, ride and performance and longevity takes a back seat. Having said that, the rebuild interval for someone who doesnt abuse them and just drives gravel roads should be over the 3 years depending on how many miles you do a year. I drive my rig extremely hard to the point of breaking other components while doing trails meant for much better equipped trucks and my rebuild interval is 1 year, I have customers who are a little more sane and have not rebuilt their coilovers in 7-8 years since they bought them. Its all in what they are subjected to.

Most of the items currently on your truck are not plated but painted (or powder coated, but unlikely). Plating is the most durable method to protect the shocks. The ICON items will work great with the components and rear springs you have on your truck. If you can swing the town time, it might be beneficial to pull off all the items you plan to re-use and have them blasted and coated to keep them looking nice for years.
 
[MENTION=109102]MattJakobs[/MENTION] [MENTION=57546]4-Ripcord[/MENTION] be sure to post up your installs here when installed! There are a lot of people who would love to see them :)

A lot late to the party but what the hell! Now time for some UCAs and new CVs.
<a href="http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/mattjakobo/media/.109_zps1yprdpmd.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o748/mattjakobo/.109_zps1yprdpmd.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo .109_zps1yprdpmd.jpg"/></a>
A little peak at them here.
<a href="http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/mattjakobo/media/Wilm8_zpshtfui5mr.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o748/mattjakobo/Wilm8_zpshtfui5mr.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Wilm8_zpshtfui5mr.jpg"/></a>
 
I'm not happy with my non-resi Icons at all. The spring rate & damping is simply not compatible with my 4Runner config (Shrockworks front bumper, no winch, 17" wheels with 32" BFG MTs, otherwise stock.) Using the terminology, hitting a single small-medium amplitude bump in the 40mph range, the tire will literally bounce off the pavement 3-4 times and the whole truck shutters rather violently. If I drove my truck without any knowledge of the setup, I would absolutely conclude that the dampers are blown/trashed. All components (bushings, ball joints, ICON UCA etc) are new.

Now, if I'm breaking the speed limit, the ride is unbelievable, but that's not realistic usage.
 
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I'm not happy with my non-resi Icons at all. The spring rate & damping is simply not compatible with my 4Runner config (Shrockworks front bumper, no winch, 17" wheels with 32" BFG MTs, otherwise stock.) Using the terminology, hitting a single small-medium amplitude bump in the 40mph range, the tire will literally bounce off the pavement 3-4 times and the whole truck shutters rather violently. If I drove my truck without any knowledge of the setup, I would absolutely conclude that the dampers are blown/trashed. All components (bushings, ball joints, ICON UCA etc) are new.

Now, if I'm breaking the speed limit, the ride is unbelievable, but that's not realistic usage.



Standard front spring?
 

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