"If I had to do it all over, knowing what I know now" list of mods

Matt's4Runner

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When asking advice on Icon suspension I came to the realization that my priorities might not be in order. Inspired by Jeremy556, I'd like to hear your advice. I'm sure other newbies would welcome the insight as well.

Jeremy556:

"My "If I had it all to do over again, knowing what I know now..." list of mods, in order.
1. ARB dual compressor - I have gone through a lot of cheap up to high end Viair compressors, and am currently building a new dual compressor setup from some of my viairs which will probably be similar in CFMs to the ARB unit. I have probably spent 2-3 times what the ARB costs, but never all at once.
2. Stauns deflaters (spelling?) - These were probably my number 2 purchase, and still one of the most useful.
3. Tires.
4. Tools. A tool roll from Amazon, plus hand picked pieces out of a few socket sets, ratcheting box end sets, etc. 1/4 and 3/8 ratchets, extension, U Joint, sockets regular and deep 8-21mm, allen wrenches, Chinese cable and pirated TechStream.
5. Armor. Skid plates, sliders, bumpers. I made the mistake of going with ARB's, as they were cheap and light, and at the time I was doing pretty mild wheeling. They don't endure rock crawling, at all. I have spent more than the difference in price having new brackets made out of much stronger steel, and the ARB plates gusseted and bent back into (sort of) shape, than a more comprehensive set of Bud or Shrock skids would have cost.
6. Suspension - the stock suspension (with KDSS) is great on road. Only slight complaint was the nose dive. The aftermarket stuff works much better off road (as long as you are aired down) and can take larger hits without bottoming out. It all seems to have WAY too much low speed compression damping, I'm not sure why. I may just be spoiled, as I am used to running Ohlins dampers that are custom valved and have wide ranges of adjustability for compression and rebound damping."
 
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I own a TE and LE.

I'd probably not buy a TE again. I get more use out of the full time 4x4 in the LE, especially in snow. More so when we move up north and not just visit.

Most of the "problems" with the TE stem from a lack of a center diff. Toyota were cheap bastards by omitting this key feature.

If they offered a TE with AWD, that'd be sweet.
 
When asking advice on Icon suspension I came to the realization that my priorities might not be in order. Inspired by Jeremy556, I'd like to hear your advice. I'm sure other newbies would welcome the insight as well.

Jeremy556:

"My "If I had it all to do over again, knowing what I know now..." list of mods, in order.
1. ARB dual compressor - I have gone through a lot of cheap up to high end Viair compressors, and am currently building a new dual compressor setup from some of my viairs which will probably be similar in CFMs to the ARB unit. I have probably spent 2-3 times what the ARB costs, but never all at once.
2. Stauns deflaters (spelling?) - These were probably my number 2 purchase, and still one of the most useful.
3. Tires.
4. Tools. A tool roll from Amazon, plus hand picked pieces out of a few socket sets, ratcheting box end sets, etc. 1/4 and 3/8 ratchets, extension, U Joint, sockets regular and deep 8-21mm, allen wrenches, Chinese cable and pirated TechStream.
5. Armor. Skid plates, sliders, bumpers. I made the mistake of going with ARB's, as they were cheap and light, and at the time I was doing pretty mild wheeling. They don't endure rock crawling, at all. I have spent more than the difference in price having new brackets made out of much stronger steel, and the ARB plates gusseted and bent back into (sort of) shape, than a more comprehensive set of Bud or Shrock skids would have cost.
6. Suspension - the stock suspension (with KDSS) is great on road. Only slight complaint was the nose dive. The aftermarket stuff works much better off road (as long as you are aired down) and can take larger hits without bottoming out. It all seems to have WAY too much low speed compression damping, I'm not sure why. I may just be spoiled, as I am used to running Ohlins dampers that are custom valved and have wide ranges of adjustability for compression and rebound damping."

I own a TE and LE.

I'd probably not buy a TE again. I get more use out of the full time 4x4 in the LE, especially in snow. More so when we move up north and not just visit.

Most of the "problems" with the TE stem from a lack of a center diff. Toyota were cheap bastards by omitting this key feature.

If they offered a TE with AWD, that'd be sweet.

Matt first:

1. Good AT Tires
2. Recovery equip.
3. Sliders
4. THEN you can go to whatever suspension you think you need.
5. Skids if you need 'em.

Again Matt, it all depends on your choice of off road activities. I don't rock crawl anymore nor do I bust mudholes or hit bumps (or jumps) at high speed. If I wanted to do that again I would just get a side by side. With that said I still am off road quite a bit for both work and play, probably more than 90% of the posters here because of my mountain bike activities and trailhead locations. The 4Runner is pretty amazing off road in stock form with just a set of good tires. Run it off road stock for awhile and see for yourself.
[MENTION=92049]LandCruiser[/MENTION]: What problems with part time 4WD? I live 15 minutes from a ski resort! I have been driving in this crap for 35 years! We got over 10 FEET of snow here last year and twice we had 2+ feet on the ground! Absolutely no issues with part time 4WD and the 4Runner goes very well in 2WD with the nannies on. If it's slick you pull the lever, if not leave it in 2WD. There is no "problem." If you want to tell me that "I feel better having full time 4WD because it will get me out of binds like sliding around curves and slick spots on interstate" then I will tell you to trust the VSC. It is almost (almost) impossible to get one of these out of shape at with the nannies on in either 2 or 4WD. Sure, solid ice you can but solid ice needs more than 4WD to drive on. Ask our Canadian friends. Regular snow and rain slick highways are no issues for the VSC. Real test: Last winter we had about 4" of slick snow packed on the ground. I was going across a huge parking lot at night at 35 mph in 2WD. I cranked the wheel and hit the brakes....should have swapped ends right? No, it just sorta made some noise, slowed down (a lot) and made the curve before stopping. It throttled back on the engine and modulated all the brakes to keep it on course. No issues. I turned VSC off and happily swapped ends and did doughnuts. So no excuse for needing AWD. No, there is no "problem" with the part time system.
 
Tools and Recovery equip. first!
Tires
Protection - Skids / Sliders
Suspension
Compressor
etc....

A stock SRS with stock tires is still VERY capable and can take you to / from many off road adventures. You can get stuck / broken down even on a dirt road. Cheap compressors can be had at Wal-Mart that can air you up until you have the funds for the ARB.

Putting a compressor before tools and protection seems to me just asking for trouble.
 
So no excuse for needing AWD. No, there is no "problem" with the part time system.
This. I spent the past winter living at 8,000 feet, in a ski resort, and constantly going over 10K+ passes.

When it is slick, pull the lever back, when it is dry, push the lever forward. It spent weeks at a time in 4WD.
 
Definitely would have bumped armor up a little higher on my list. Theres been a few occasions when the extra peace of mind that I had something substantial underneath me would have caused a lot less sweat! And recovery gear. It's one of those things that you don't need often but when you do you'll be glad you have it! (kind of like armor too...noticing a trend?)

Other then that though, I would keep mine pretty much the same.
 
this thread is indeed very useful for newbies like me. So, what's more important skidplates or sliders? I'm planning to do mild - moderate offroading, but no rock crawling. And what's the downside, how much do you suffer in mpg for each? thanks.
 
this thread is indeed very useful for newbies like me. So, what's more important skidplates or sliders? I'm planning to do mild - moderate offroading, but no rock crawling. And what's the downside, how much do you suffer in mpg for each? thanks.

Very good questions --- I too am wondering the same things.
 
Fortunately, the dumbest thing was also the cheapest and easiest to reverse: swapping the stock antenna for an AMI Big Stick. Performance is fine and the thing appears to be precisely chiseled out of an ingot, but it looks like something riot police would use to beat insurgent protesters. And if someone ever grabbed it and gave it a lateral yank in a remote parking lot, it'd fold the fender over long before that billy club bent even a millimeter.

It's still on there, but I'll go back to stock once i get motivated enough to cut the original flexy-tenna down 5 or 6 inches.
 
If I had to do it all over again...

First I'd have my head examined!!!
Modding and accessioning for off-roading is expensive and addictive.
 
This is my first 4Runner (actually it's my wife's), but we have two Tacomas that we take off road similar to what you describe.

Here's what I plan to do:

1) Put a set of E rated all terrain tires on it. The E rated tires have proven to be more puncture resistant for me over the years (despite repeatedly being told that they are not). The stiffer side walls also serve to firm up the ride slightly, which I would like as I find the current T4R SR5 to be a little soft.

2) Add sliders - I believe I will be the first to have BAMF sliders for a 5th gen T4R.

3) If I didn't already have recovery gear, I would get multiple recovery straps, shackles, hi-lift jack, 8000 pound come along. Come along's get a lot of trash talk on off-road forums. For sure if you need serious recovery, a come along probably won't get it. I don't wheel that hard any more (haven't been stuck in years), a come along has proven useful on many occasions in the past just to move a truck 6-18" to get going again. You can use the hi-lift for the same thing, but I find it awkward for that purpose.

4) Viair 450P air compressor (already own).

5) I probably won't do anything else right away. After 2 years, 40-50,000 miles I'll probably change the shocks to a set of Bilstein 5100's set in the 0 position. No lift, just a little better damping.

That's it!

David
 
Do you take the same hit in mpg with the TE in 4wd as the LE with AWD. I tend to try to keep out of 4wd as much as possible, especially on a highway that's intermittently snowy. Also it's a pain to have to slow down to engage/disengage on the highway. For those reason I've always thought it would be nice to have the centre diff.
 
What's wrong with your shrockworks skids and sliders?

Nothing wrong with them.

Budbuilts sliders I can get a bump out. And they are a little more usable as a step for the lady.

Budbuilt skids are smooth bottom were as the shrockworks the bolts are exposed. Only problem with the budbuilts is that if you run a sway bar and relocation kit it makes the front skid lower then the rest. That is why I went with the shrockworks. But I am now not running a front sway bar.

Don't get me wrong that the Shrockworks skids and slidders have saved me from some damage and I will continue to run them and beat them up.
 
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