If you have a TRD Skid Plate Read This!

After researching this I'm just going to leave the plastic shield on without any cutting or trimming, just going to bolt the TRD skid right over the plastic. This seems like the best move, with my luck I would have a branch go right thru my radiator on the first day if left it off...

You are going to run into a shield crushing issue if I remember correctly. That’s why I cut mine.
 
Just got a TRD skid, the only thing I don't like is the gap where the plastic OEM cover was located. Anyone have any additional pics of the way you cut yours to use with the TRD skid?

My 18 off road premi, never came with said plastic cover.
 
Question for those who reused the stock rear bolts. How have they held up? I'm wondering about long term. Have the stock rear bolts backed out on you while going down the road? Do you need to check that they're tight often?

If you remove those bolts now, you'll likely be able to see that they're only engaging a few of the threads. When I installed my TRD plate, I initially just used the 'short' bolts because I couldn't get the longer ones to go in - and I didn't have the thread tap I needed to clean them up. Later on when I removed the short bolts to switch them out, I could easily see that only a few threads were engaged. I chased the holes accordingly with the tap, and was then easily able to get the long bolts to go in.

I'm sure lots will chime in here and say their shorter bolts are holding the plate just fine, but that doesn't mean it's right. Take the time to clean and chase the threads, and use the longer bolts.
 
Why is that? Have you filled that spot in with anything?
I'm seeing a mesh screen - I guess the oil filter is behind this? Any problem with cooling after installing the TRD skid? I realize it's only the oil filter but...
 
Why is that? Have you filled that spot in with anything?
I'm seeing a mesh screen - I guess the oil filter is behind this? Any problem with cooling after installing the TRD skid? I realize it's only the oil filter but...

Who are you directing this question to?
 
Tried quoting Scomey,not sure why it didn't show, was wondering why he didn't have the plastic piece on his ORP.
 
They must remove it at the port and toss it in the Pacific Ocean, when upgrading to the ORP package.

I have the TRDORP & mine had the OEM skid (not the TRD Skid) and the front filler as well.

Did yours have the TRD Skid from the port & dealer?
 
I wound up having to do a.good bit of chopping to keep the plastic shield. Not sure if that was a good thing, if I want to change out the TRD skid.
Few things I don't like about the skid so far:
It sticks out a bit much, too close to the ground imo. it opens up the engine compartment a bit too much - the stock setup kept water/mud out better. I might have to buy another plastic shield.

The one good thing I had was the fact I didn't have to chase and tap the threads. I used a bore brush and cleaned the holes but this wasn't necessary, they were immaculate. I used copper Permatex anti sieze on all new bolts and they went in so easily I barely had to use the wratchet to tighten them.
 
I wound up having to do a.good bit of chopping to keep the plastic shield. Not sure if that was a good thing, if I want to change out the TRD skid.
Few things I don't like about the skid so far:
It sticks out a bit much, too close to the ground imo. it opens up the engine compartment a bit too much - the stock setup kept water/mud out better. I might have to buy another plastic shield.

The TRD Skid should be level with the skid behind it, therefore no closer to the ground than the stamped one.
Sure it sticks out, there to protect your oil can.
I found the TRD Skid keeps water out better than OEM.
 
Thanks to the OP for the tip. I have an aftermarket skid but figured I'd check my threads anyways and sure enough, one of the bolts had some threads semi stripped. Re-tapped all of the mounting holes just to be safe and ran a die over the bolts to get em cleaned up. One of my bolt holes was pretty messed up before I re-tapped it.

It was well worth the small amount of time and effort to do this job. Everything jolted up smoothly afterwards.
9d188af2d6e910840b3b52a43dabf752.jpg


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Now this is not new information. In fact [MENTION=103267]Saker[/MENTION] discussed this and wrote the following post 2.5 years ago.
Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum - View Single Post - TRD Pro parts

There have been repeated issues with the bolts getting stuck or not fitting properly with the TRD Skid plates. Now since this is Father’s Day I was going to call this the “I Told You So” thread, but I figured it wouldn’t get as many views or help as many people.

Last weekend I took my 4runner in for its 30K service a little early because we are leaving Friday for our biannual trip up to Maryland for 3 weeks to visit family. So in preparation I removed my skid plates (because I didn't want the dealership messing them up with their power tools)…except the back passenger driver side bolt on the TRD Skid was stuck. My reaction was pretty much “Oh Shit I know where this is going!” as I’ve read all of the threads on the issues with this. I also read but did not heed the advice of Saker (hence when the “I told you so” potential thread name) when initially installing the skid plate as the bolts seemed to go in just fine, maybe a little snug on the last few turns. Luckily the dealership was able to remove the bolt without any damage to the radiator support or destroying the threading of the hole (edit: I told them not to re-install the skid once they got it off as I'd didn't trust them to not lock the bolt on place permanently). As I said, I was lucky! As soon as I got back from the dealership I ordered a M10 x 1.25 Chaser Tap, some Tap Lubricant and a Die (same materials as in Saker’s post above) from Amazon.
Amazon.com: Irwin Tools 8339 10mm x 1.25 Metric Tap: Home Improvement
(I just bought the "Frequently Bought Together Trio of Parts)

I have never done a drill tap before in my life. Thank god for YouTube! Watched a couple videos on it and it seemed very straightforward. For those of you that haven’t done this, here is the quick and dirty of it.

1.Line up the chaser tap with some lubricant on it with the bolt hole.
2.Initiate the tap with a couple of turns; you will feel it catch the previous threads.
3.Complete a couple of hand turns then back it out about a half turn and repeat for the length/depth you need.
4.Back the tap out turning slowly.

You can see in the pics below how dirty and how much material the tap removed from the bolt hole. This is why there have been so many issues. After completing this procedure on all 4 bolt holes I could literally hand screw the bolts in and then tighten easily using the M14 Socket Wrench.

If you have a TRD Skid Plate, this is worth the $20 in materials. It could save you hundreds of $ in the long run. Oh and I used some anti-seize just for good measure.


Thanks for the heads up!

I have a question though: I just bought a new ‘21 TRD Pro and it obviously comes with the TRD skid plate with it. Now would I need to do this as well prior to me getting the 5,000 oil change? Or is this really only an issue for 4Runners that do not come with the Skid plate as stock and are added on after market?


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Thanks for the heads up!

I have a question though: I just bought a new ‘21 TRD Pro and it obviously comes with the TRD skid plate with it. Now would I need to do this as well prior to me getting the 5,000 oil change? Or is this really only an issue for 4Runners that do not come with the Skid plate as stock and are added on after market?


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you can remove the skid before you take it in for the oil change dealers have a tendency to Gaul up those threads.
 
Thanks for the heads up!

I have a question though: I just bought a new ‘21 TRD Pro and it obviously comes with the TRD skid plate with it. Now would I need to do this as well prior to me getting the 5,000 oil change? Or is this really only an issue for 4Runners that do not come with the Skid plate as stock and are added on after market?


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you can remove the skid before you take it in for the oil change dealers have a tendency to Gaul up those threads.

[MENTION=657607]blackbearry[/MENTION],

I would definitely chase those threads.
Order a tap and die, remove your skid plate and take care of business.
Cheap insurance to say the least!

Oh, just a little bit of never seize before the bolts go back in.
 
Thanks for the heads up!

I have a question though: I just bought a new ‘21 TRD Pro and it obviously comes with the TRD skid plate with it. Now would I need to do this as well prior to me getting the 5,000 oil change? Or is this really only an issue for 4Runners that do not come with the Skid plate as stock and are added on after market?


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See the answers from [MENTION=103267]Saker[/MENTION] and [MENTION=50279]spartacus[/MENTION] above...that’s the advice I’d give.
 
[MENTION=657607]blackbearry[/MENTION],

I would definitely chase those threads.
Order a tap and die, remove your skid plate and take care of business.
Cheap insurance to say the least!

Oh, just a little bit of never seize before the bolts go back in.


Alright, thanks! Will do!


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Thanks for the heads up!

I have a question though: I just bought a new ‘21 TRD Pro and it obviously comes with the TRD skid plate with it. Now would I need to do this as well prior to me getting the 5,000 oil change? Or is this really only an issue for 4Runners that do not come with the Skid plate as stock and are added on after market?


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There’s a vid on YouTube of a guy saying not to try and “clean” the bolt holes with a rethreading tool. He says you need a gun cleaning brush and some oil to just clean the dirt out of holes and longer bolts go right in. I’d try that before forcing a rethred tool into the holes to “clean” them. 4Runner TRD Skid Plate Bolt Installation Advice - YouTube


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There’s a vid on YouTube of a guy saying not to try and “clean” the bolt holes with a rethreading tool. He says you need a gun cleaning brush and some oil to just clean the dirt out of holes and longer bolts go right in. I’d try that before forcing a rethred tool into the holes to “clean” them. 4Runner TRD Skid Plate Bolt Installation Advice - YouTube


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Oh yeah, cleaning the threads first is good advice.
There’s a recent thread on tap sizes and [MENTION=9502]repo[/MENTION] posted about using a thread chaser/restorer instead of taps. Much less destructive.
Another tool I didn’t know I needed until I saw them.
I ended up buying a set of these...
Amazon.com: Lang 6 Pc. Metric Thread Restorer Tap Set (LNG-2588): Automotive

I purchased a quality tap, the correct size and not one from HF and I did not have the first issue.
2 T4R’s using the same tap for the TRD Skid install and no issues.
Quality taps hold to closer specifications. At lease what’s what I have found in my few years of living and in the industry I’m in.


I used the Lang chasers when I installed my sliders and those worked fine as well.


YMMV
 

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