Inner CV boot ripped

[Dezerts10]

Just got out to ocotillo wells for The Weekend and did a little loop In the wash, stopped and noticed the inner cv boot on my driver side is throwing grease from the middle so I’m assuming it’s ripped or punctured.

It’s a tundra CV from Napa so I think it has a warranty but just curious if I should be worried about driving around this weekend maybe 50 miles and also the 80 mile drive home Sunday.

Also, this is the passenger side

This is driver side that’s ripped

The boot isn’t a perfectly formed bellows. And looks like it rubs in itself possibly why it ripped?




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[96RedRunner]

No worries drive on!
I've driven as long as a couple years with torn boots knowing I didn't have a warranty and wasn't going the reboot route.

 

[Lindenwood]

Got any duct tape?

 

[mtbtim]

Question is, do you have the receipt for those Napa CV axles? If you don't, will Napa still honor the warranty?

You'll be fine driving it for your short trips.

I realize people have said screw it and ran their CV with torn boots for a long time and gotten away with it. But, if this vehicle is more than an around town daily driver and you actually take long road trips in your rig or you wheel it, I wouldn't recommend just ignoring the issue. If you're in Bum F*ck Egypt on a wheeling trip way off the road, or your a couple states away from home, I wouldn't feel comfortable relying on that CV.

If you want to run it like that, it would probably be prudent to carry a spare CV and have the necessary tools with you to do a road or trail side repair. Or, you get towed to the nearest hillbilly service station and be at the mercy of whatever Ol' Gomer want's to charge you.

 

[Dezerts10]

I was trying to think about the receipt as well. I actually think I still have it by not 100% sure. I will probably pull it and replace it, then reboot it for a spare. It’s only going to have maybe 300 miles in it with the rip


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[pluton]

Whether it will be worth rebooting depends on how much dirt gets in and grinds away at the innards. Obviously, if the boot failure is caught promptly after it happens and immediately taken out of service, the CV is good candidate for regreasing and rebooting. You could inspect it upon return from your trip. If there is miraculously little grit and sand inside it, that's be nice.

 

[Dezerts10]

Got home and looked through one stash of receipts and no axle receipt. I have one more stash to look through but if all
Else fails, reboot and buy a new one from Napa.


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[StreetCreeper]

I don’t off-road much but I’ve had a torn boot on my passenger side for about 100,000 miles now and it’s still rolling along just fine. Every oil change I just pump some grease into the ol’ Girl and she’s good as new for a few more months. This initially started as a sort of experiment to see how long it would go. After 50,000~ miles or so I just figured it will probably last as long as I keep greasing it or start off-roading it harder.

Yes I’m kinda lazy sometimes...

 

[96RedRunner]

Got home and looked through one stash of receipts and no axle receipt. I have one more stash to look through but if all
Else fails, reboot and buy a new one from Napa...

Try calling the store see if your purchase is in they're records some chains track some don't.

" looks like it rubs in itself possibly why it ripped?"

Yep.
If you reboot, OE boots tend to last longer than what comes on reman shafts.
Some folks when rebooting clamp the small diameter inward of factory location to spread bellows out to prevent rubbing. How to thread is around.

 

[Dezerts10]

My buddy who races Baja gave me three ideas also.

Clean boot and out graphite dry lube dust on boots, use O’Neil neoprene wet suit repair glue to fix ripped boots and also like mentioned above move the small clamp inward

I’ll be calling Napa to ask as well, just need to find some time


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[Dezerts10]

Went to Napa and talked to the right person I guess as he found my order from October 2017.

Replacement new axle and no need to to do the boots even though I bought a cv axle boot band tool from amazon last week.


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[Brad_Leroy]

great you tube for cv reboot

Just went through a CV reboot using Timmy the Toolman's video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcCT4UgFUTw

Can't go wrong. Not too difficult.

 

[nobb]

The front CV axle is not usually under much stress since you're likely driving in RWD mode. That's probably why many people are able to drive so long on a bad axle. I would still minimize driving on it though, just because you're increasing the risk of permanent damage to the joint of which then you won't be able to re-boot it. The aftermarket CV joints mostly suck for the 4Runner, that's why re-booting is the preferred fix.

In very rare cases, the CV joint might get to a stage where it can literally break apart and do a bunch of damage to the surrounding components. You would have to be super negligent for that to happen though.

 

[JayRolla]

I've put I'm guessing near 80000 miles on torn front cv boots with multiple 1000 mile trips and some hard core offroading. I keep them clean and avoid all water and mud when possible. They make no noises at all.

Drive on!!

 

[Yes and]

Hi. I’m new here. Because of the 15-post requirement, I am asking the following question at various threads dealing with cv boot problems. I am not a mechanic. I only do easy stuff, like brake replacements and oil changes.

I have owned since late 2016 a factory-standard ’07 SR5 with no lifts. I have a chronic cv boot issue, and am on my third set of the higher quality NAPA axles, The boots keep breaking. I see from multiple threads where breaking boots are very common, but I haven’t found the answer to my particular question. It seems most of the issues are either because of lifts or hard off-road driving. I have and do neither.

I vaguely recall when I first started searching this forum at the start of this issue that someone suggested that the NAPA boots might not be manufactured to the same specs as OEM. Even though I have learned that replacing the whole axle takes as much time as just the boots, why keep going through that if the problem can be solved by getting different boots? That’s too much of a hassle. Sure, I can get the axles replaced, but I have to pay for labor every time the boots break. Also, because I purchased the NAPA axles personally, I’d have to each time return them myself to get the replacement credit.

So, is there a better, more reliable boot?

 

[brillo_76]

Hi. I’m new here. Because of the 15-post requirement, I am asking the following question at various threads dealing with cv boot problems. I am not a mechanic. I only do easy stuff, like brake replacements and oil changes.



I have owned since late 2016 a factory-standard ’07 SR5 with no lifts. I have a chronic cv boot issue, and am on my third set of the higher quality NAPA axles, The boots keep breaking. I see from multiple threads where breaking boots are very common, but I haven’t found the answer to my particular question. It seems most of the issues are either because of lifts or hard off-road driving. I have and do neither.



I vaguely recall when I first started searching this forum at the start of this issue that someone suggested that the NAPA boots might not be manufactured to the same specs as OEM. Even though I have learned that replacing the whole axle takes as much time as just the boots, why keep going through that if the problem can be solved by getting different boots? That’s too much of a hassle. Sure, I can get the axles replaced, but I have to pay for labor every time the boots break. Also, because I purchased the NAPA axles personally, I’d have to each time return them myself to get the replacement credit.



So, is there a better, more reliable boot?

Not a good idea to spam the forum with the same question on many threads. Its a good way to get banned quickly. You not even in the proper section of the forum for 07 that's gen 4

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[ninethings]

Hi. I’m new here. Because of the 15-post requirement, I am asking the following question at various threads dealing with cv boot problems. I am not a mechanic. I only do easy stuff, like brake replacements and oil changes.

I have owned since late 2016 a factory-standard ’07 SR5 with no lifts. I have a chronic cv boot issue, and am on my third set of the higher quality NAPA axles, The boots keep breaking. I see from multiple threads where breaking boots are very common, but I haven’t found the answer to my particular question. It seems most of the issues are either because of lifts or hard off-road driving. I have and do neither.

I vaguely recall when I first started searching this forum at the start of this issue that someone suggested that the NAPA boots might not be manufactured to the same specs as OEM. Even though I have learned that replacing the whole axle takes as much time as just the boots, why keep going through that if the problem can be solved by getting different boots? That’s too much of a hassle. Sure, I can get the axles replaced, but I have to pay for labor every time the boots break. Also, because I purchased the NAPA axles personally, I’d have to each time return them myself to get the replacement credit.

So, is there a better, more reliable boot?

gonna need to post this in the 4th gen section. Also, please dont spam a bunch of old posts with the same question. One comment will bump the post to the top. Also, OEM boots are the way to go, regardless.

 

[Yes and]

Thanks. I'm really not trying to spam. Just needing an answer sooner than later, and I don't see how to go about that, since I need to have 15 posts before being able to start a new thread.

 

[nissanh]

throw in an OEM set. You don't have to drain fluid: jack up the car, loosen the boot clamps on inner boot. remove the upper ball joint and place something to catch grease from the boot and just pull the CV with the inner tulip joint and shaft: the CV housing stays in the diff. Using a circlip plier pull the tripod joint and remove the boot. Install the new smaller clamp and then the boot, add grease, place the circlip and put all back in together.

 

[Yes and]

throw in an OEM set. You don't have to drain fluid: jack up the car, loosen the boot clamps on inner boot. remove the upper ball joint and place something to catch grease from the boot and just pull the CV with the inner tulip joint and shaft: the CV housing stays in the diff. Using a circlip plier pull the tripod joint and remove the boot. Install the new smaller clamp and then the boot, add grease, place the circlip and put all back in together.

Thanks for this. I'll take from this that you are in the same camp that it's better to go OEM. You make this sound easy enough, even for someone such as me who says I only do easy stuff. I'm definitely not a shade tree mechanic or grease monkey! And because of that I have to admit I didn't follow everything you described.

This makes me curious: why does it seem most people then say when a boot is defective one might as well replace the whole axle because the labor ends up being the same and the axle assembly doesn't cost that much? The mechanic I plan to use (who has a great reputation) says the same thing.

It seems to me the Napa boots are really where the problem is, whether in composition or dimensional tolerances or both. Seems like the axle steel would have to be made to more precise tolerances. I'd rather just replace the boots with OEM. I also read somewhere that Toyota sources their axles from the same MFR as Napa, but maybe the boots themselves are different(?) Is all of this bad logic?