Installed 3" lift, now re-thinking that decision -- Opinions?

[kfriede]

I just finished installing the Toytec/Eibach 3" lift on my 99 4Runner. I did the diff drop, then read about the problems it could cause, and removed it again. Got it aligned, and realized I never even thought about the panhard bar. Now I'm sitting at the decision of if I should spend another $300 for a lift I don't even need, or cut my losses and go with a lower lift (or stock).

Looking for opinions on what you all think my best option would be:

A. Keep the 3" lift
A.1 Spend $300 on panhard bar/extension
A.2 Reinstall the diff drop

B. Sell the springs (keep shocks), and go with:
B.1 Toyota original springs (new, all 4)
B.2 Toyota original springs (new rears, old fronts)
B.3 Other springs? Suggestions?

C. ???

I'm thinking the best bet is B.1, and selling the Toytec/Eibach springs. I don't really *need* a lift, my thinking back then was simply "If I'm replacing springs anyways, might as well." I had totally forgotten the problems that could come with it....

Fire away!

 

[Rockdawg84]

c: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-...eimkeith-pck-panhard-correction-kits-$86.html


you won't be disappointed.

Im not running a diff drop, you will be fine either way on the front.

 

[96RedRunner]

You asked for it!
Keep your lift, keep your OE panhard bar.
Purchase the eimKeith PCK (pan hard correction kit) for $86.00.
Best lift Mod money I ever spent, he's a member here vendor section,
search for the threads on the PCK, as to why kit is better than Adj panhard bar.
I used it on both my Runners, recommend it to all in your position.

I've run a Dif drop on my 96 since 09 no problems over 100k miles.

 

[02gixxersix]

You asked for it!
Keep your lift, keep your OE panhard bar.
Purchase the eimKeith PCK (pan hard correction kit) for $86.00.
Best lift Mod money I ever spent, he's a member here vendor section,
search for the threads on the PCK, as to why kit is better than Adj panhard bar.
I used it on both my Runners, recommend it to all in your position.

I've run a Dif drop on my 96 since 09 no problems over 100k miles.

Is the panhard bar/modification really worth it? I have a 3.5" lift in the rear and don't seem to have any issues. What change did you notice? For $86 if it's that big a difference I'll probably go for it.

To the OP, what would be a problem with the diff drop? I can't imagine not having one with the amount of grease I'm throwing everywhere :loco:

 

[infantry503]

I just finished installing the Toytec/Eibach 3" lift on my 99 4Runner. I did the diff drop, then read about the problems it could cause, and removed it again. Got it aligned, and realized I never even thought about the panhard bar. Now I'm sitting at the decision of if I should spend another $300 for a lift I don't even need, or cut my losses and go with a lower lift (or stock).

Looking for opinions on what you all think my best option would be:

A. Keep the 3" lift
A.1 Spend $300 on panhard bar/extension
A.2 Reinstall the diff drop

B. Sell the springs (keep shocks), and go with:
B.1 Toyota original springs (new, all 4)
B.2 Toyota original springs (new rears, old fronts)
B.3 Other springs? Suggestions?

C. ???

I'm thinking the best bet is B.1, and selling the Toytec/Eibach springs. I don't really *need* a lift, my thinking back then was simply "If I'm replacing springs anyways, might as well." I had totally forgotten the problems that could come with it....

Fire away!

If you want to sell the toytec eibach springs I know someone that would buy them

 

[theesotericone]

Is the panhard bar/modification really worth it? I have a 3.5" lift in the rear and don't seem to have any issues. What change did you notice? For $86 if it's that big a difference I'll probably go for it.

To the OP, what would be a problem with the diff drop? I can't imagine not having one with the amount of grease I'm throwing everywhere :loco:

I don't run a diff drop at all. 3 up front and 3.5 in the rear. Fully armored and I wheel enough to want the extra clearance. I rebooted my OEM CV's right after I put my lift on over a year ago. I haven't leaked any grease at all since the reboot.

As far as the Panhard Correction Kit goes, yeah it's worth every penny. It returns a lifted truck to close to factory geometry. Before I installed it I could feel my ass end kick out on washboards. Since installing it the rear stays straight.

 

[kfriede]

c: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-...eimkeith-pck-panhard-correction-kits-$86.html


you won't be disappointed.

Im not running a diff drop, you will be fine either way on the front.

Never even saw that in searching.... that looks amazing. My only concern with it is the welding portion. I don't know how to weld, and might need a shop to do it. Thanks!

 

[96RedRunner]

Is the panhard bar/modification really worth it? I have a 3.5" lift in the rear and don't seem to have any issues. What change did you notice? For $86 if it's that big a difference I'll probably go for it.

If you didn't use Adj Panhard with 3.5" lift you rear axle is not centered.
I have 4" rear lift w/adj bar, whenever I hit seams in hwy at speed rearend would ass scoot left to right. The PCK keeps the geometry of suspension design and function correct post lift. Post PCK that ass scoot is gone. Bonus you use OE bar.

 

[kfriede]

You asked for it!
Keep your lift, keep your OE panhard bar.
Purchase the eimKeith PCK (pan hard correction kit) for $86.00.
Best lift Mod money I ever spent, he's a member here vendor section,
search for the threads on the PCK, as to why kit is better than Adj panhard bar.
I used it on both my Runners, recommend it to all in your position.

I've run a Dif drop on my 96 since 09 no problems over 100k miles.

Most of the problems with diff-drops seem to be anecdotal, so maybe I'm overreacting on not using it.

Thanks for the second on the PCK. May have to consider that, especially since it looks to fully correct the problem.

 

[02gixxersix]

I don't run a diff drop at all. 3 up front and 3.5 in the rear. Fully armored and I wheel enough to want the extra clearance. I rebooted my OEM CV's right after I put my lift on over a year ago. I haven't leaked any grease at all since the reboot.

As far as the Panhard Correction Kit goes, yeah it's worth every penny. It returns a lifted truck to close to factory geometry. Before I installed it I could feel my ass end kick out on washboards. Since installing it the rear stays straight.

Hmmmm. Guess I'll have to see how she behaves offroad. On the street I have no issues and the axle looks centered.

I should probably reboot mine, but I read post after post about people who experienced the same thing as me and I don't feel like taking the front end apart again if I don't have to. If I pull it apart I'm gonna replace them.

 

[kfriede]

To the OP, what would be a problem with the diff drop? I can't imagine not having one with the amount of grease I'm throwing everywhere :loco:

What I had seen with not using it is that the drop pivots the diff and starves the pinion bearing of oil. I figured I'd rather deal with CV's than a blown diff.

 

[theesotericone]

If I pull it apart I'm gonna replace them.

Just reboot the OEM's. If you still want to replace them let me know and I'll take the OEM's off your hands. lol

 

[kfriede]

Hmmmm. Guess I'll have to see how she behaves offroad. On the street I have no issues and the axle looks centered.

I should probably reboot mine, but I read post after post about people who experienced the same thing as me and I don't feel like taking the front end apart again if I don't have to. If I pull it apart I'm gonna replace them.

Measure your tire-to-frame distance on driver and passenger for the rear. With my 3", it was really obvious, and the alignment shop aligned the front as if it were a perfect track (which means I have to turn my steering wheel left to actually track straight).

 

[96RedRunner]

Never even saw that in searching.... that looks amazing. My only concern with it is the welding portion. I don't know how to weld, and might need a shop to do it. Thanks!

Cost around a Benjamin most anywhere I think, Ay.

 

[02gixxersix]

Just reboot the OEM's. If you still want to replace them let me know and I'll take the OEM's off your hands. lol

Haha probably a good call. I might buy the kit and just do them if/when I have the front end apart. They aren't torn or anything, just the clamps are probably kind of worn.

 

[kfriede]

Question for all of you, what other problems could I expect with this 3" lift? UCA issues? Sway bar links?

Contemplating the long-term cost tradeoffs between installing the eimKeith kit, or just going stock springs.

 

[02gixxersix]

What I had seen with not using it is that the drop pivots the diff and starves the pinion bearing of oil. I figured I'd rather deal with CV's than a blown diff.

Hmmmm. I wonder how true that is. Sounds more like someone's assumption that fact. Too many guys running around for years with diff drops.

 

[02gixxersix]

Measure your tire-to-frame distance on driver and passenger for the rear. With my 3", it was really obvious, and the alignment shop aligned the front as if it were a perfect track (which means I have to turn my steering wheel left to actually track straight).

I'll have to check. Both sides of tires stick out the same amount, and I track pretty perfectly straight. Wonder if this is one of those things that affects some and not others.

 

[kfriede]

Cost around a Benjamin most anywhere I think, Ay.

That's not too bad. Still cheaper than an adjustable bar.

 

[96RedRunner]

What I had seen with not using it is that the drop pivots the diff and starves the pinion bearing of oil. I figured I'd rather deal with CV's than a blown diff.

Maybe I'm a lucky one, 100k miles on dif drop hasn't happened yet, dun know.