Installed 3" lift, now re-thinking that decision -- Opinions?

I am considering a lift kit but idk what I want I have looked at rough country's 3" lift but many say it nose dives and I do not want that I like toytec's spacer idea with 2" in the front and 1.5" in the back. I don't want a crazy expensive lift and nothing extremely high. I plan to keep stock tire size because I have just got new a/t's. Just wondering if there are better options than this.

If you want an all-around mild wheeler-package and need a suspension refresh too, look at Sonoran Steel's 1.2 kit. It's all in there.
 
Here is what the rear end and panhard bar difference is after installing superflex coils last weekend

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9590db8612d8c85ce8eae0a87afcfc8b.jpg


I ordered the kit from Keith and may get it installed this weekend or might wait until after the new year to do it.


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Buyer's remorse, got it.

But why did you lift your truck in the first place? Embrace that and then decide.

The reality of an 18+ year old vehicle, and modding it, is a never-ending investment that pays dividends in the form of personal satisfaction, recreation and a paid-off, quality vehicle that will run to 400K if maintained.

Stock height replacement springs cost as much as lift-springs, etc. Quality shocks cost the same regardless of length (not talking Monroe) new bushings are new bushings. You get the idea. Whether you lift it or not, you have an investment-grade vehicle, might as well invest in what you want it to be.


[MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION] is crafty and practical :D but c'mon man, paint it black!

Precisely. The reason I got the lift was because I needed new shocks, and figured my springs are probably 20 years old as well so might as well replace everything. And if I'm going to spend that money, might as well go with a lift.

Totally forgot about the extra costs involved.
 
My experience after a 350,000 miles and THEN doing a 3" lift. Everything else that was OE needed to be replaced. UCA and LCA bushings, ITRE & OTRE, LBJ's, CV boots, steering rack bushings, and the front sway bar links. All of those were probably needed BEFORE the lift but they quickly deteriorated after the fact. And spend the money for Toyota parts! I know Keith and the PCK is a must for any lifted 4runner.

Is that UCA's themselves, or the bushings for UCA's? I'm fine with bushings going bad, mine are looking pretty shabby already. LBJ's and OTRE are already replaced.

That doesn't sound as bad as I expected. Thanks!
 
Is that UCA's themselves, or the bushings for UCA's? I'm fine with bushings going bad, mine are looking pretty shabby already. LBJ's and OTRE are already replaced.

That doesn't sound as bad as I expected. Thanks!

Bushings, ball joints (pressed in), UBJ boots, etc. All old and all need freshening up.

Many guys just replace the entire UCA because it freshens up all the components and they are not SUPER expensive, but it is cheaper to do the work yourself and press out/in new balljoints and do the bushings; it's just a lot of work.

For guys with serious lifts or hard core wheelers, they just replace the UCA with aftermarket and call it a day.

Like has been said, an 18 year old truck is an investment that you need to keep feeding. Cheaper than car payments, though. YMMV
 
Just the bushings really. But you lose your factory caster settings with the lift and aftermarket UCA will help correct that. Not completely necessary but that will get you new bushings and a new upper ball joint. Also worth noting that aftermarket UCA's and correcting the caster can & will cause less clearance between the tire and the pinch weld on the firewall. It will rub more than likely at full lock.

It's good those things are new. My advice to anyone contemplating a lift on a 3rd gen is plan on everything. You don't have to do everything at the same time (I didn't) but it will all need it done at some point. A proper lift is $1000-$1500. But plan on at least double that to properly rebuild the suspension at the same time.
 
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...2" in the front and 1.5" in the back...
Just wondering if there are better options than this.

How does your 4Runner currently sit? Unless it's a '99 Highlander- or has had the coils replaced- the rear end is probably saggy. If you did more lift in the front than rear, it would look real goofy!
There is always a better option than spacers.
If I were you, I would get new OEM Toyota(which are Tokico "black") rear shocks, and scoop up some 5th gen 4Runner rear coils. I put 5th gen rear coils on my '97, and they were a PERFECT replacement coil for a stock height rig. With the stock 3rd gen shocks, they rode and handled awesome.
I think '99 tall coils on new OEM front struts would pair excellently with that rear setup.
Just my $.02.
 
I'm installing the same toytec/bilstein 3 inch lift this weekend. My rig is A 98 limited with 194k miles on it. I was planning on installing the diff drop kit, but after reading some comments in this thread it seems like that might not be a good idea? Can some one elaborate on that and on re booting a factory cv joint?
 
I'm installing the same toytec/bilstein 3 inch lift this weekend. My rig is A 98 limited with 194k miles on it. I was planning on installing the diff drop kit, but after reading some comments in this thread it seems like that might not be a good idea? Can some one elaborate on that and on re booting a factory cv joint?

You don’t need to worry about doing the diff drop, it won’t cause any issues that are actually documented. However, I will say that the drop honestly doesn’t do a whole lot for the CV angles in my case.
 
You don’t need to worry about doing the diff drop, it won’t cause any issues that are actually documented. However, I will say that the drop honestly doesn’t do a whole lot for the CV angles in my case.

For the angles or for the life of the CV? (or both?)
 
I'm installing the same toytec/bilstein 3 inch lift this weekend. My rig is A 98 limited with 194k miles on it. I was planning on installing the diff drop kit, but after reading some comments in this thread it seems like that might not be a good idea? Can some one elaborate on that and on re booting a factory cv joint?

Pro tip, don't lose the rear shock mount bolt and washers. They run a pretty $18 (for the 3) from Toyota.
 
For the angles or for the life of the CV? (or both?)

Both, really. Even with the drop the inner cv boots are touching at the bellows, however I have new CVs so I'm not too worried about it. The only real way to fix the cv boots from tearing easily is by extending the boot so the bellows won't rub as much. However, if you end up rebooting you should be fine for a while. Most people that lift and end up flinging grease are those that had original CVs with dry boots.
 
Both, really. Even with the drop the inner cv boots are touching at the bellows, however I have new CVs so I'm not too worried about it. The only real way to fix the cv boots from tearing easily is by extending the boot so the bellows won't rub as much. However, if you end up rebooting you should be fine for a while. Most people that lift and end up flinging grease are those that had original CVs with dry boots.

I'm flinging grease with < 10 miles after the lift, but it's oozing out by the clamps. Not a broken boot.

Hoping the drop will cure that, or it'll relieve itself. Worst case scenario I put some hose clamps on.
 
I'm flinging grease with < 10 miles after the lift, but it's oozing out by the clamps. Not a broken boot.

Hoping the drop will cure that, or it'll relieve itself. Worst case scenario I put some hose clamps on.

Will you be using your truck on trails that actually require a lift? I’m surprised no one has asked that yet. And how long do you plan on keeping the truck?
 
Will you be using your truck on trails that actually require a lift? I’m surprised no one has asked that yet. And how long do you plan on keeping the truck?

Honestly, no idea. I moved to an area that has lots of desert and mountains, and wanted something to do some exploring. Current plan is to do some car camping as well. So realistically? Probably not. I don't plan on doing any extreme rock crawling or off-trail stuff.

As for how long to keep the car.... who knows. I'd like to think I can put an extra 100k on it (@ 200k now), but time will tell what life throws at me between now and then (life-wise. Different job, family, location, etc).
 
OP,

Where are the damn pics!!!!!!!!

And to answer your question: keep what you have, spend $90 on a panhandle bar. BTW selling used well incur a loss that could exceed the cost a PH bar.
:bat:
 
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And to answer your question: keep what you have, spend $90 on a panhandle bar. BTW selling used well incur a loss that could exceed the cost a PH bar.
:bat:

True, I was thinking more long-term cost (added wear and tear due to the lift). Definitely learned a lot with this thread.
 

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