So this past Friday, I installed my single disc Scion HU. As most of you have already read, the unit is a very nice upgrade and quite the bargain at the $100 I paid for mine. Only one thing bothered me about getting rid of my stock 4Runner unit (the standard 6 speaker set up). I would lose my tape deck which I used to play my iPod.
Well, thanks to a post by MShrake (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3637&highlight=modulator), I decided to buy an FM modulator to hardwire to my unit.
I had heard too many dissapointing stories about the wireless FM modulators out there, so those were off the list right away. The Scion HU doesn't have a CD changer input, so a Blitz adapter or ICELink adapter were also not an option.
I ended up buying a JVC KS-IF200 FM modulator. Using MShrake's and MrCastalucci's detailed instructions on taking apart the dash, I was able to install this unit. The result was a nice surprise, but there's a couple of things to keep in mind.
For those that don't know how this works, it's very simple. The modulator is a small box (maybe 4" x 1.75") with left/right RCA inputs and and input/ouput for the radio antenna. You simply plug in the car antenna into the antenna input on the modulator, and plug the antenna output to the back of your HU. Then, you buy a Y-adapter cable to run from the RCA inputs into your portable device. Connect the power and ground cables to your 12 Volt source and ground and you're set to go. But here's a couple of things to look for if you decide to do this.
Get a high quality y-adapter audio cable. My first cable was a run-of-the-mill GE audio cable I got at Target. The result? Lots of noise. I then went to Best Buy and purchased an Accoustic Research 3ft cable with twisted pair construction and the differece was clear. Gone was the noise from the first installation.
In this case, I really did get what I paid for. The cheap GE cable was $5 for 6ft and the AR was $13 for 3ft. Although the sound does not compare with the crisp quality of CD, it's better than my tape adapter and surely, it's better than the wireless modulator solutions out there.
By the way, I found that the 3ft length works perfectly avoiding the need to coil up excess cable.
Also I found that by utilizing the treble booster setting on my iPod, I was able to get a really good mix of lows and highs. The highs do tend to be a little bright, but you can compensate by increasing the bass on your HU. In my case, I don't feel I need it. Leaving the iPod sound setting on anything too bass heavy will muddle everything, so pick a high frequency setting for best results with the modulator.
Also, it's a good idea to get a modulator with automatic detection of the audio signal. This way you don't have to hunt for the remote source on your truck's wiring. As per MShrake, I tapped into the 12 volts/ground from the accessory power outlet on the center console and it worked like a charm. Just make sure you tape the connection with electrical tape to avoid blowing a fuse like I did. In my haste, I put everything back together without covering my new connection and when I drove the car, the two wires must have made contact, blowing the power outlet fuse (number 37 on the fuse box on the dash).
As I said, I'm almost giddy to find out that this thing worked so well and I would recommend this JVC unit to anyone. I have it set at frequency 88.5 on my FM2 preset number 1. If anyone has any questions, please reply of PM me.
Well, thanks to a post by MShrake (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3637&highlight=modulator), I decided to buy an FM modulator to hardwire to my unit.
I had heard too many dissapointing stories about the wireless FM modulators out there, so those were off the list right away. The Scion HU doesn't have a CD changer input, so a Blitz adapter or ICELink adapter were also not an option.
I ended up buying a JVC KS-IF200 FM modulator. Using MShrake's and MrCastalucci's detailed instructions on taking apart the dash, I was able to install this unit. The result was a nice surprise, but there's a couple of things to keep in mind.
For those that don't know how this works, it's very simple. The modulator is a small box (maybe 4" x 1.75") with left/right RCA inputs and and input/ouput for the radio antenna. You simply plug in the car antenna into the antenna input on the modulator, and plug the antenna output to the back of your HU. Then, you buy a Y-adapter cable to run from the RCA inputs into your portable device. Connect the power and ground cables to your 12 Volt source and ground and you're set to go. But here's a couple of things to look for if you decide to do this.
Get a high quality y-adapter audio cable. My first cable was a run-of-the-mill GE audio cable I got at Target. The result? Lots of noise. I then went to Best Buy and purchased an Accoustic Research 3ft cable with twisted pair construction and the differece was clear. Gone was the noise from the first installation.
In this case, I really did get what I paid for. The cheap GE cable was $5 for 6ft and the AR was $13 for 3ft. Although the sound does not compare with the crisp quality of CD, it's better than my tape adapter and surely, it's better than the wireless modulator solutions out there.
By the way, I found that the 3ft length works perfectly avoiding the need to coil up excess cable.
Also I found that by utilizing the treble booster setting on my iPod, I was able to get a really good mix of lows and highs. The highs do tend to be a little bright, but you can compensate by increasing the bass on your HU. In my case, I don't feel I need it. Leaving the iPod sound setting on anything too bass heavy will muddle everything, so pick a high frequency setting for best results with the modulator.
Also, it's a good idea to get a modulator with automatic detection of the audio signal. This way you don't have to hunt for the remote source on your truck's wiring. As per MShrake, I tapped into the 12 volts/ground from the accessory power outlet on the center console and it worked like a charm. Just make sure you tape the connection with electrical tape to avoid blowing a fuse like I did. In my haste, I put everything back together without covering my new connection and when I drove the car, the two wires must have made contact, blowing the power outlet fuse (number 37 on the fuse box on the dash).
As I said, I'm almost giddy to find out that this thing worked so well and I would recommend this JVC unit to anyone. I have it set at frequency 88.5 on my FM2 preset number 1. If anyone has any questions, please reply of PM me.
