Installing Cornfed 3/2
- Thread starter tenguns
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Trdsupranick
New member
DONT DISCONNECT ANY WIRING!!!
It says to do it but you will make your job a lot harder. There is no need to.
It says to do it but you will make your job a lot harder. There is no need to.
CJ3Flyr
Super Moderator
Do disconnect the hold downs for the wire though... The extra flex is almost a requirement. On hard tug and it can goof you up and cause misery. The sheathing on the wire makes it look thick and strong, it is not.
This thread chronicles the misery and the cure.
:cheers:
This thread chronicles the misery and the cure.
:cheers:
Trdsupranick
New member
CJ3Flyr said:
agreed ...it will give you a few inches of maneuverability.
Jason B
Official Vendor
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tenguns
Member
Installed. Took longer then expected on the fronts but I was alone and I'll use my "well organized tool system" as a defense. (I have three of everything here....somewhere.) :bash:
The directions need some work. I'll write some changes to make it easier on the next guy.... I can tell you the first thing it should say after jacking, standing and removing the wheels is to:
1.) take the front drip pan off and
2.) remove the sway bar disconnecting at the frame and @ the knuckles.
This will make the job much easier for the next guy.
Secondly - they should probably point out that its easier to disconnect the xreas behind the first bracket with a 22mm wrench and to remove the bracket for that so there is plenty of strain relief for the xreas hose. I understand some have done it without disconnecting the xreas but its an easy move with benefits. It's far easier to use spring compressors and assemble the shock/spring assembly out of the vehicle.
Also to carefully remove that sensitive sensor wire at the lower plastic point and the two brackets (one lower and one on the upper control arm - so they are clear of potential damage.
Turning the steering wheel to allow for better clearance of the lower shock mount - and tightening the top shock nut so that the lower shock mounts can be inserted more easily.
The spring can rotate in the process too and move out of its slotted seating spot at the bottom of the spring. So to ck for that before loosening the spring compressors.
I recommend loosening the rear nut on the upper control arm to frame connection bolt (the long one) - certainly not to try remove the bolt or the nut for that matter. Its just not necessary
It might state to remove the shock/spring assembly completely.
Couple more things - but I'll put it together and send to Jason.
Oh', and yea - I still HATE spring compressors.
Will post pics tomorrow. Now its screamin for wheels and tires and to do the driving light mod.
The directions need some work. I'll write some changes to make it easier on the next guy.... I can tell you the first thing it should say after jacking, standing and removing the wheels is to:
1.) take the front drip pan off and
2.) remove the sway bar disconnecting at the frame and @ the knuckles.
This will make the job much easier for the next guy.
Secondly - they should probably point out that its easier to disconnect the xreas behind the first bracket with a 22mm wrench and to remove the bracket for that so there is plenty of strain relief for the xreas hose. I understand some have done it without disconnecting the xreas but its an easy move with benefits. It's far easier to use spring compressors and assemble the shock/spring assembly out of the vehicle.
Also to carefully remove that sensitive sensor wire at the lower plastic point and the two brackets (one lower and one on the upper control arm - so they are clear of potential damage.
Turning the steering wheel to allow for better clearance of the lower shock mount - and tightening the top shock nut so that the lower shock mounts can be inserted more easily.
The spring can rotate in the process too and move out of its slotted seating spot at the bottom of the spring. So to ck for that before loosening the spring compressors.
I recommend loosening the rear nut on the upper control arm to frame connection bolt (the long one) - certainly not to try remove the bolt or the nut for that matter. Its just not necessary
It might state to remove the shock/spring assembly completely.
Couple more things - but I'll put it together and send to Jason.
Oh', and yea - I still HATE spring compressors.
Will post pics tomorrow. Now its screamin for wheels and tires and to do the driving light mod.
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Trdsupranick
New member
cant wait for pictures....whats the driving light mod?
tenguns
Member
Strapped to the desk - but took these shots today and will get better later this week. Needs a wash to get the sand out and still looks like a grocery-getter to me but better then Friday! Need wheels so I can get tires. This raises the big question that no one is yet to answer - how will 17x9 inch wheels fit under there? Anyone running them and are you having any problems?
~original[/IMG]
And one more for old times sake.... my 96 4x4, Downey coilovers, ARB, Warn Winch & Lights, PIAA lights, Air-Lift, aftermarket leather, In dash DVD and 285000 plus miles of pure off-road abuse in the Eastern Sierra's before being semi-retired in Vermont as a hunting rig:
And one more for old times sake.... my 96 4x4, Downey coilovers, ARB, Warn Winch & Lights, PIAA lights, Air-Lift, aftermarket leather, In dash DVD and 285000 plus miles of pure off-road abuse in the Eastern Sierra's before being semi-retired in Vermont as a hunting rig:
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tenguns
Member
One more question on the install? What type of alignment results are you getting after the install. Does the geometry really get thrown off that much?
I got an alignment and here are the results that are out of spec:
Front Left
Caster = 1.5 Spec range 2.5-4.0
SAI = 10.5 Spec range 11.9 - 13.4
Front Right
Caster = 1.9 Spec range 2.5-4.0
SAI = 11.8 Spec range 11.9 - 13.4
How close did your guys get it to the factory specs with your alignments and for any of you alignment experts - what's it all mean?
I've got just 3382 miles on her. Should I take her back in?
I got an alignment and here are the results that are out of spec:
Front Left
Caster = 1.5 Spec range 2.5-4.0
SAI = 10.5 Spec range 11.9 - 13.4
Front Right
Caster = 1.9 Spec range 2.5-4.0
SAI = 11.8 Spec range 11.9 - 13.4
How close did your guys get it to the factory specs with your alignments and for any of you alignment experts - what's it all mean?
I've got just 3382 miles on her. Should I take her back in?
