Installing Sub & Speakers(Questions)...Please Help.

rogue_mv

New member
Hello I am new to the board. I bought my first 4Runner after my tour in Iraq. I haven't done any 4x4 mod's to my 4Runner yet but I am looking into a lift soon. My question at the moment is related to the inside of my 2002 Sport...I am installing an Infinity BassLink T and 4 Eclipse Speakers...with an Eclipse 4-Channel Amp. First I need to know if I can install 6 1/2" speakers in all 4 of my doors. Secondly when I run cables from the truck to the engine where is the easiest place to get through the "firewall". Also any suggestions on Amp Wiring kits for my door speakers and my Sub...I already have Piaa lights running on my battery...might need a battery in my 4Runner to pick up the Audio add-on's. Any thoughts or insite would be great. Thanks in advance for any suggestions or help.
Respectfully,
Walter
 
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Welcome to the board man, and congrats on making it back safely, i think i speak for all here when we appreciate what you guys do. let me see if i can return the favor and help you a bit on the sub part.

Note-this is my experience from my 97, sorry if anything doesn't properly translate to the 02.

for the sub wiring kit i would go with the rockford fosgate kit (check on what gague is recommended for your sub/amp pair). runs about 70-80 bucks, depending on where you buy it.

for wiring i mounted my amp behind the left-rear seat and ran the wires under the carpet of the seat to the a/v line at the bottom. i grounded the amp by drilling a small hole next to the back left seatbelt bolt, coiling the groundwire around a screw, screw it in the hole and, to be safe, fill the gaps with some sort of sealant.

next i ran the power wire (6 gague) and the av cables+reciever wire through the av line. now i did this without checking on other possibilities but while i ran the the wires heading to the reciever under the carpet, up next to the pedals, and finally to behind the head unit. this is what some might disagree with. i took the 6g power cable, pulled up the carpet right in front of the driver seat and drilled the appropriate hole right next to the av line and fed the wire through there. from there i went through a series of holes and wedges to ensure it stayed nested to the body, went up through the engine bay, and manuevered it neatly all the way to the battery. i also used those zip ties to group it together with neighboring tubes,wires,etc. to make it look as professional as possible. after i was done i got some all-weather sealant for the undercarraige side and some silicon sealant or something for the inside of the hole to be safe. the rf kit's power cable is the perfect length, if i recall correctly i didn't have to cut/shorten any wires, and if you ground the wire where i did that's also an ideal length.

hope this helps, i can take pictures tomorrow in between classes if you want, but i think you should get the point. as for the speakers, still have my stocks in, but i'm still happy. i have a pair of kc 100w hi lites hooked up as well and i'm in the market for what will most likely be an optima red top. take it easy man
 
To help with the adding of loads i would get a capacitor proably about a 2 farad capacity. Are you looking for a custom enclosure. or are you going to run a stock box. How many watts does your anp put out RMS. That plays a big parts of what gauge wire to run because the bigger the more watts it can handle and less resistance you get also.


To route the wire you could drill a hole in the firewall and get alittle gromet to make it look like any other wire. As far as mounting you amp i put mine in the right rear on the car under that panel. I can take a pic if u would like.

For the front and rear speaker setup you canfit 61/2 in the front but you will have to have get an adapter plate.

i hope this helps you.
 
I have 6 1/2 in the front with out an adapter and the rear, i bought the adapters off ebay that let you fit a 5 1/4 in the rear doors. The stock ones were tiny looked like maybe a 4 inch.
 
gapboi210 said:
I have 6 1/2 in the front with out an adapter and the rear, i bought the adapters off ebay that let you fit a 5 1/4 in the rear doors. The stock ones were tiny looked like maybe a 4 inch.

So if I can get an adapter can I fit 6 1/2's in my rear doors? Hope so because I have already recieved them. I could not pull up any information on the rear doors on Crutchfield...thier website almost treated it like they didnt even exist and you could only put speaker in the front doors.
 
Actually a cap won't help untill you do a few other things first... and adding a cap now just gives the battery something else it has to charge.

Uprgrade your big 3. Which are battery - to chassis...battery + to alternator +, and engine block to chassis...The battery to groud wire is only an 8 guage wire at best..I noticed this yesterday when I got some time at work to do some work on mine. I didn't look at the other 2 so I'm not sure how they are, but upgrade those, then upgrade battery, THEN add a cap if necessary. Caps are over rated. And 2 farads? You barely need around a farad for every 500 watts.

Look at the side of your amp and see what size fuses are in it. Anywhere up to a total of 60 amps you can use an 8 guage kit. Anything over 60 you'll want to step to 4 guage.

You can get a cheap wiring kit...which there is nothing wrong with that I would just say get a better set of RCAs than what come with the kit.

As far as getting through the firewall....look up under your dash.. for the most part the toyota firewall is pretty simple to get through. I came through on the driver side and had no problems drilling. If you use 8 guage you might be able to poke a hole in an existing gromet and squeeze it through there. Just be careful because inside those gromets are wires, and you do not want to knick those wires.
 
save the room and buy a basslink, at least try one for free (30 day return policy!!)
i love mine and would never have subs back there as the springs in the runner are garbage enough without the constant added wait!!
 
those things are garbage. Just save the room and don't buy anything.

Of if you want something to save room the get the JL Audio stealthbox.
 
of course you wont hear me a block a way (who wants to be) but you can deff feel the base in the runner. also, you must tune it right to get it to sound good. i have an after market deck with sub controls so it also helps
:beer: :beer: :beer:
 
fireteacher said:
of course you wont hear me a block a way (who wants to be) but you can deff feel the base in the runner. also, you must tune it right to get it to sound good. i have an after market deck with sub controls so it also helps
:beer: :beer: :beer:

I just wanted to add some extra bass in the Runner and didnt want to build a box, or buy seperately and put together...instead I bought an Infinity BassLink T with the three 10" subs and amp built into it...its also pretty slim so it doesnt take up alot of cargo room...I cant wait to install it!
 
rogue_mv said:
So if I can get an adapter can I fit 6 1/2's in my rear doors? Hope so because I have already recieved them. I could not pull up any information on the rear doors on Crutchfield...thier website almost treated it like they didnt even exist and you could only put speaker in the front doors.

I don't think 6 1/2 will fit in the rear door. I can't really remember I think they will mount but the door panel will hit. The adapters let you go from a 4 to a 5 1/2.
 

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