Inv4drZm's Build Thread

Bought a couple Magnaflow mufflers to test some setups on while they were 20% off.



Creepy Crawl at Kansas Rocks this weekend.

I need an old 4Runner like this:






















Probably my most hated obstacle, as far as I can tell it's just luck if you slide off the rock and into the tree or not. I saw it take out an FJ door one year so I guess I got lucky.



Rear bumper saved the rear sheetmetal.





Sick jeep I noticed. Had a trussed Ford 9 in the rear.



Couple other notes, the rear diff cover sticks below the differential housing 1/8" and it grabbed a rock and bent it backwards creating an oil leak. Of course the only 'Jeep' part on my truck fails me. About a drip every 30 seconds but I checked it after the couple hour drive home and it's still at the full line so I guess my trail fix of retightening the cover bolts and banging on it with a hammer fixed most of the leaking.




How many people can say they've driven their daily driver through an offroad trail at night with no lights turned on following glowsticks through tight trees, and then drive through a clown's mouth painted on a demented circus tent? I have. Borderlands 3 anybody?


One last note, I followed my brother up an obstacle we've done almost a dozen times, but with all the mud it made the ascent difficult even with front/rear lockers, 35" mud terrains, and lots of throttle. I was trying to make it up the very top ledge when the jeep on 40s behind me got impatient enough to drive up within 6 inches of my side, have his wife get out and 'spot' him while he throttled up the harder line to my left. His wife was saying "you need to winch him he'll never make it up." I said "sure, winch me up" hoping maybe his winch would break on him. Well I needed to be further to the right on the ledge to be pulled up more easily so I maneuvered over there and with some throttle my daily driver climbed up it just fine. PSA: could some people just be a little more patient?
 
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Does this have something to do with my bad alignment and darting when braking?



I persuaded it with a hammer and locked the cam back in place, good as new. Have I said I'm starting to hate IFS?

Been dreaming of solid axle trucks at work today, figured a 1st gen Tundra single cab w/ 4.7L and short bed conversion and a 9.5" front axle would be a killer rig. Turns out somebody beat me to it: 1985_4r on instagram.

Of course mine would be painted Sandstorm and the bed bobbed short w/ fabricated 10.5" rear/9.5" front sitting on 40s. The problem is finding a single cab with the V8 for around 4k. Surprisingly they can be found with the 3.4l, 4.0l, and 4.7l, and manual/auto.



 
Does this have something to do with my bad alignment and darting when braking?



I persuaded it with a hammer and locked the cam back in place, good as new. Have I said I'm starting to hate IFS?

Total Chaos has a weld-on bracket that's a lot beefier than the stock ones. My tabs are flattened too, but it's actually aligned with one of the adjustments overlapping where the tab would have been, so I don't really need to fix it -yet. I probably will when I get new tires.

The only darting I've had on braking was when I had a seized/stuck brake caliper piston. The piston still moved, but wouldn't retract all the way. It made it like one side had a lot more brake pressure than the other. That being said, didn't you put on stoptech parts?... I guess that would make this scenario much less likely for you.
 
[MENTION=130999]Inv4drZm[/MENTION] Any tips on getting the y-pipe removed from the exhaust manifolds? I haven't started yet, but my y-pipe is out for delivery today, so I'll be tackling this pretty soon. Similar to you, I'll be running new y-pipes for a few weeks with the old manifolds until the premium long tubes come in from DT.

No welding table updates for this weekend, they should be close to done with it though at work.

Instead, I'll be attempting to fabricate a Y-Pipe for my truck. Full 2.5" diameter 304 stainless. Vibrant and Stainless Bros parts. Yes 2.5" not 2.25" like the URD though a 1/4" probably doesn't matter. Hopefully equal length sides too.

This is as far as I got today (Friday). Only snapped off 3 of the 4 studs. The cat delete and high-tuck exhaust I had the shop do really isn't too bad, better than the stock setup.





What the cat looks like:

 
Total Chaos has a weld-on bracket that's a lot beefier than the stock ones. My tabs are flattened too, but it's actually aligned with one of the adjustments overlapping where the tab would have been, so I don't really need to fix it -yet. I probably will when I get new tires.

The only darting I've had on braking was when I had a seized/stuck brake caliper piston. The piston still moved, but wouldn't retract all the way. It made it like one side had a lot more brake pressure than the other. That being said, didn't you put on stoptech parts?... I guess that would make this scenario much less likely for you.

I have the Marlin cam gusset kit, just need to weld it on.

The wandering when braking was due to the LCA being wobbly on that mount, when weight would shift or braking pulling on that arm the mount would move. So two birds with one stone.

I just installed the stoptech rotors not calipers.

[MENTION=130999]Inv4drZm[/MENTION] Any tips on getting the y-pipe removed from the exhaust manifolds? I haven't started yet, but my y-pipe is out for delivery today, so I'll be tackling this pretty soon. Similar to you, I'll be running new y-pipes for a few weeks with the old manifolds until the premium long tubes come in from DT.

When the nut gets stuck try and spin it back and forth a couple turns, if the stud snaps cut it flush, I used a dremel cutoff wheel, then also cut the stud on the backside of the flange, it's easier to do that than to drill through that extra 1/4".

I don't know if it will be worth installing the Y pipe now if in a couple weeks you'll install the headers. If it was me and I could feel the studs about to snap I would hold off.
 
I have the Marlin cam gusset kit, just need to weld it on.

The wandering when braking was due to the LCA being wobbly on that mount, when weight would shift or braking pulling on that arm the mount would move. So two birds with one stone.

I just installed the stoptech rotors not calipers.



When the nut gets stuck try and spin it back and forth a couple turns, if the stud snaps cut it flush, I used a dremel cutoff wheel, then also cut the stud on the backside of the flange, it's easier to do that than to drill through that extra 1/4".

I don't know if it will be worth installing the Y pipe now if in a couple weeks you'll install the headers. If it was me and I could feel the studs about to snap I would hold off.

Urethane inserts on the LCA's is probably the best suspension mod I have ever done. Makes everything firmer and I don't have to worry about losing alignment after wheeling anymore.
 
Urethane inserts on the LCA's is probably the best suspension mod I have ever done. Makes everything firmer and I don't have to worry about losing alignment after wheeling anymore.

I've got those too.

It could have happened when that jeep tried winching me up the ledge, that tire was in a hole and wasn't climbing so it took the full force of his winch and could have flattened the tabs then.
 
Whipped up a catback yesterday.

Dirty Deeds 5" diameter 20" length vs Magnaflow 6" diameter 18" length.

Sound camparison:

With just the Dirty Deeds catback, no y pipe the sound was deep, and when I added gears interstate travel was a little noisy with the higher RPMS.

With the Dirty Deeds and fabricated Y pipe/gears the sound was higher pitched and interstate drone might have gotten a little more annoying.

With the Magnaflow and fabricated Y pipe/gears the sound is deep like the first setup, but interstate travel is quiet.


So surprisingly the Magnaflow muffler is quieter than the Dirty Deeds. I lifted each system in each arm and the Dirty Deeds system is actually like 5lbs heavier!! I told you guys that thing was stout! I actually prefer the angry 'flat plane crank' sound the Dirty Deeds/ Y pipe combo gave me over the basic deep rumble, I'm not sure how to fabricate a system that sounds like that.

Most badass 4Runner exhaust system? (Excuse the temporary lack of headers)





 
Were you using the Dirty Deeds or custom Magnaflow in the videos, and are you still using a resonated OEM tailpipe?
 
Forgot to ask in my last post, how much close to equal length is your Y compared to the previous one?

Your exhaust tone reminds of SC400s and GS400/430's , the exhausts on those are pretty much...symmetrical?...they're located along the centerline of the vehicle so the Y has practically the same length primaries and tubing for the remaining exhaust are mirror images of each other. So I believe your Y definitely affected the exhaust tone...I like it!
 
Forgot to ask in my last post, how much close to equal length is your Y compared to the previous one?

Your exhaust tone reminds of SC400s and GS400/430's , the exhausts on those are pretty much...symmetrical?...they're located along the centerline of the vehicle so the Y has practically the same length primaries and tubing for the remaining exhaust are mirror images of each other. So I believe your Y definitely affected the exhaust tone...I like it!

I think its 8" off from each side when I measured; I ran out of bends. If I built another one I should be able to get it closer though by using more bends and two short radius 90s welded together instead of the long radius 180 I tried using.
 
Got a Moser cover installed. My OE cover was bent from the rock and some mud was shoved up creasing and ruining the reusable gasket I had behind it.

Thick and aluminum.



 
Also, forgot to mention, mainly for my future reference, I coated the inside of the frame with the Eastwood internal frame coating last weekend. I probably should have bought 3 cans instead of the 2 but I think I got the main areas pretty well.

Just trying to keep the rust-free frame from corroding.
 
Also, forgot to mention, mainly for my future reference, I coated the inside of the frame with the Eastwood internal frame coating last weekend. I probably should have bought 3 cans instead of the 2 but I think I got the main areas pretty well.

Just trying to keep the rust-free frame from corroding.
I did Eastwood as well a few months ago. It went pretty well, my biggest issue was knowing whether or not the frame rails were actually clean inside. Kinda just had to put the pressure washer up to the holes until it didn't run brown anymore lol
 
I did Eastwood as well a few months ago. It went pretty well, my biggest issue was knowing whether or not the frame rails were actually clean inside. Kinda just had to put the pressure washer up to the holes until it didn't run brown anymore lol

Same, used a hose with a pointy nozzle.

How many cans did you use?

Time for fluid film on the outside of the frame as soon as it warms back up.
 
Same, used a hose with a pointy nozzle.

How many cans did you use?
I believe 2.5 cuz I know I have some leftover right now. I just pulled the line through fairly slowly and hoped for the best. If I went too slow it started dripping out of the frame holes (sorry property manager.........) so I found a good pace and believe I was able to get everything.
 

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I think you guys will like this.

Got it installed at 9:00 last night, installed enough for me to drive it to work. Using clothes hanger wire as an exhaust hanger for now, no joke.

Teaser pic:

 

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