Inv4drZm's Build Thread

Chose all the brightest "cool white" LEDs from Diode Dynamics. Will add door lights and backup lights from them later.











 
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Modifications needed to mount?

They bolt right up. Check out the "superflexy on the cheap" thread on the FJ forum.

Here are some of the shock lengths I have on my spreadsheet:
Shock-----Comp.-----Ext.-----Travel
5100--------14.91-----23.5-----8.59
Icon 2.0----14.85----24.35----9.5 (2.5 Icon might be different I think)
60071L-----15.23----26.49----11.26
MT LT-------17------28.5------11.5

Basically the 60071L has a lot of the effective droop of a MT LT kit without requiring a bump stop spacer.
 
They bolt right up. Check out the "superflexy on the cheap" thread on the FJ forum.

Here are some of the shock lengths I have on my spreadsheet:
Shock-----Comp.-----Ext.-----Travel
5100--------14.91-----23.5-----8.59
Icon 2.0----14.85----24.35----9.5 (2.5 Icon might be different I think)
60071L-----15.23----26.49----11.26
MT LT-------17------28.5------11.5

Basically the 60071L has a lot of the effective droop of a MT LT kit without requiring a bump stop spacer.
Awesome, thanks! My current OME shocks have almost no travel. Yes, the wheel is off the ground =/

 
Awesome, thanks! My current OME shocks have almost no travel


Yeah, I've seen old pictures of someone's rig with OME and they had no downtravel at all! I recently saw on Toytec's website a "new" OME shock, they say:

OME-60020

Replaces N71E ---

These are a longer rear Nitrogen gas charged shock for improved flex and control off road.

Perfect match for ToyTec RCC2.0 coils -

Add 2" more flex per side when used with our coils. Priced per pair.

New Sport shocks offer improved valving and look!

Not sure if yours are the new ones or not.
 
They bolt right up. Check out the "superflexy on the cheap" thread on the FJ forum.

Here are some of the shock lengths I have on my spreadsheet:
Shock-----Comp.-----Ext.-----Travel
5100--------14.91-----23.5-----8.59
Icon 2.0----14.85----24.35----9.5 (2.5 Icon might be different I think)
60071L-----15.23----26.49----11.26
MT LT-------17------28.5------11.5

Basically the 60071L has a lot of the effective droop of a MT LT kit without requiring a bump stop spacer.
One more question. At what compression length would you recommend the extended bumpstops?
 
One more question. At what compression length would you recommend the extended bumpstops?

I would love to know the exact measurement with our stock bumps. I've never measured it before, but I can guess its around 15-15.25". My brother said the FJ guys don't run drop spacers with their 60071L's which are 15.25". Easiest way to check is to fully compress your rear suspension and measure the shock. The stock bump stop is pretty hard though, not sure you can compress it fully unless driving with some momentum and bottoming out.

For the 17" MT LT shocks you of course need their 3" spacer, so you can kinda use that to interpolate the spacer lengths in between.
 
That storage drawer setup looks wicked! Very close to what I had envisioned for my own. I bet if you follow through using your CAD design you could sell it to others here on the forum. Very cool.

LED's look great too. I want to do this as well but I still prefer the "warm white" for the interior. Tough call though cause your output photos speak for themselves... sure brightens up the interior with the LED's.

Keep it up.
 
Love the rear tire carrier! Do you still happen to have the cad files. Oh and the lock pin with the green landyard look oddly familiar to a C17 tow stow pin
 
Love the rear tire carrier! Do you still happen to have the cad files. Oh and the lock pin with the green landyard look oddly familiar to a C17 tow stow pin

Page 6 and 7 have all you really need. That's more than what I had to start with and I welded the whole thing to my truck in under an hour. I have lengths on page 7 but measuring is the easy part.

The lock pin was from McMaster Carr.
 
Finished up the final measurements and modeling today! 130lbs without welds so maybe 140lbs all said and done. All 1/4" steel and 2" .120 wall tubing. Now I need to create the .DXF files the plasma cutter reads and send it to my buddy at work. It will only stick out past the grill 3.25" roughly what the stock bumper does. The little lights are Baja Designs S2's, which I will buy if I need more light, but for now my cheap $18 cube lights and my $70 30" single row bar should do. Please excuse the crudity of my truck model.

Oh yeah, school's over and I passed Calc II so I graduated! Now to find a job...









The "prerunner" look might get welded on later (Hella 500ff's):



 
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Finally decided where I want to put my switchpro. I will be taking out 3 switches to add 8, but I won't have to mod any of my truck's interior. I will just need to glue a couple blank switches onto the back of the switchpro and snap it in place. Should be pretty sweet.



 
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Wow that was an easy mod. Already done, took me 20 minutes! I have the flush mounted switchpro so I just drilled a hole in each switch blank small enough to let the stud thread itself and didn't even use the nut on the backside. It sits pretty high on the trim panel but its hard to tell from the angle you see it while driving. The cable just feeds through the middle switch opening.







 
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The switch spacing is the exact same for the dash-mounted switches which means I can run the Switchpros over there too.



Getting my dash replaced Tuesday.

 
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Detailed my truck today. Soapy wash, clay bar, CG V38 real fast, CG White Light, then CG Jet Seal. Skipped the bumper, grille, roof, mirrors, and some of the hatch. Still, looks pretty good. (The large bugs on the truck ruined these shots)





 
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Dash pictars. Got that new dash smell. No crease above the gauge cluster like others have reported. I'm happy with the color match, not perfect but pretty close.



 
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Drove to Tuttle again today. Later I will edit and post a video from a camera strapped to my slider.

















 
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