Inv4drZm's Build Thread

[Inv4drZm]

Moved my whole welder setup to my grandpa's shop for this evening.
220v was the ticket for the jigs, had her cranked to max at 200 amps and it did pretty well. Could have used a little more power but my torch is probably rated for something like 100-120 amps with a duty cycle so it was getting pretty hot to hold onto.
So hopefully I can install the headers this weekend.

 

[montijo505]

Moved my whole welder setup to my grandpa's shop for this evening.
220v was the ticket for the jigs, had her cranked to max at 200 amps and it did pretty well. Could have used a little more power but my torch is probably rated for something like 100-120 amps with a duty cycle so it was getting pretty hot to hold onto.
So hopefully I can install the headers this weekend.

Stoked to see the outcome, although all I can do is dream with my 1GR lol.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

 

[Fozzy_Bear]

Funny but I have a 2000 Tundra Access Cab 2WD. Been debating on what to do with it and now looking to get rid of it for a 4th Gen 4R.
If I keep it, I’d be interested in the manifold your making. Heck, if I get a 4th Gen then I still would be interested.
I’m only halfway through this build log, reading from both ends, front to back Ann’s back to front. Depending on whether reading from computer or TapTalk on phone. Like I said before, you have a ton of detail and love the stream of consciousness being written down.

 

[Inv4drZm]

Got a head start today ripping the parts off to install headers. Broke two of the bolts holding the heatshields on but that's not an issue, got the shields off without raising the motor (bent the passenger's side slightly to remove it).

Got the easy to access nuts off the manifolds fairly easily with the little impact and lots of penetrant and a couple seconds of impacting with a 18" long extension bar. Broke the impact driver adapter and stabbed my wrist in the process but I'm patched back up.

Can't figure out how to get the lower bolts off, and the ones behind the shock tower. Will raising the motor help? Impact and breaker bar doesn't have enough ooomph at that angle even with lots of spraying. Maybe I'll try lowering the jack to access from the top of the truck.

 

[xtremewlr]

You might have found it by now but pages 4 & 5 of Pearl's mod thread cover installing the DT headers and getting the OEM manifolds out. Yes, you need to lift the engine a little per the thread.

 

[4RunnerAquasport]

Got a head start today ripping the parts off to install headers. Broke two of the bolts holding the heatshields on but that's not an issue, got the shields off without raising the motor (bent the passenger's side slightly to remove it).

Got the easy to access nuts off the manifolds fairly easily with the little impact and lots of penetrant and a couple seconds of impacting with a 18" long extension bar. Broke the impact driver adapter and stabbed my wrist in the process but I'm patched back up.

Can't figure out how to get the lower bolts off, and the ones behind the shock tower. Will raising the motor help? Impact and breaker bar doesn't have enough ooomph at that angle even with lots of spraying. Maybe I'll try lowering the jack to access from the top of the truck.

Yea [MENTION=377488]LT1coupe[/MENTION] told me he lifted his, and Thorley's instructions did too, so I did the passenger side first, got the old out and the new one on, lowered it back down and then did the driver side. Sea Foam Deep Creep worked pretty good for me. I drown them in that shit. I had to use a bunch of different swivels and long extensions to get the old out from several different angles. For the studs that had the nuts come off and won't come out of the head, the end of the OEM studs are a Torx but I just tapped a 7mm 6 point with a sideways hammer and I got lucky doing that. Definitely lift the engine, big help. 2 x 4 under the motor mount on the side your working. Once the fan starts to contact and bend the shroud a little, you should have more room. Hope this helps!! Pearl's mod/build LT rear/TC Dual Front/Custom Baja Bumper/Doug Thorley Headers

 

[4RunnerAquasport]

Forgot to mention the 2 x 4 needs to be about 2' long and use it vertically if that wasn't already apparent. It took a few minutes for my old brain to figure that one out.

 

[Inv4drZm]

Forgot to mention the 2 x 4 needs to be about 2' long and use it vertically if that wasn't already apparent. It took a few minutes for my old brain to figure that one out.

Thanks for the tips, do I need to raise the engine on the driver's side too? I can't figure out where to jack from on that side.

Other than that I have the passenger side completely done, and the driver's manifold is 95% removed. All the nuts are off just the studs are holding it on.

 

[4RunnerAquasport]

Thanks for the tips, do I need to raise the engine on the driver's side too? I can't figure out where to jack from on that side.

Other than that I have the passenger side completely done, and the driver's manifold is 95% removed. All the nuts are off just the studs are holding it on.

Yea I lifted it on the drivers side. It took awhile to get the 2 x 4 to sit in just the right position, but it's worth it to have the extra room and visibility. I get desperately creative sometimes, so I may have used a pry bar to keep the 2 x 4 from sliding around and I took the plastic mat out of the cup of the jack to give it more grip on the 2 x 4.

 

[Inv4drZm]

Finished the job. Replaced all studs and nuts with new Toyota parts. Had to grind the bolt head on the steering shaft but it clears now with my 1.5" body lift. Went to Lowe's and bought a flex head ratcheting wrench set as I was tightening up the last header. Made my life way better. Probably the hardest install I've ever done, and I've done rear axle swaps and a timing belt.

As for the sound, its just louder now, and some rasp when you step on it. The entire system now consists of only 2 mufflers, no cats. It does feel more powerful too.

Exhaust vid coming soon.

First side out:



New studs in:



Rotated the engine mount down to tighten the lower bolts:



Trick I used to remove the rounded stud:

 

[Ed_C]

Ahh the good 'ole double-nut method :nod:

 

[Inv4drZm]

Ahh the good 'ole double-nut method :nod:

Good name for it :naughty:

It worked well on a couple studs I completely rounded off.

 

[Inv4drZm]

So the next project; front LT. I still need to buy coilovers for. Debating between standard 600lb and heavier 700lb coils. King remote resi shocks and I guess I'll get the compression adjusters on the front too.

If I order through Wheeler's Offroad, they will build the shocks with 700lb coils for no added cost. I have 700lb in the front now and I would say it rides fine, a little stiff on the street. What I'm worried about is front IFS articulation when rock crawling, and that's where I think the 600lb coils will help me.

So I guess I've settled on the 600lb coils. Thanks for helping me talk through this. Now to pony up the $.

:rofl:

 

[xtremewlr]

So the next project; front LT. I still need to buy coilovers for. Debating between standard 600lb and heavier 700lb coils. King remote resi shocks and I guess I'll get the compression adjusters on the front too.

If I order through Wheeler's Offroad, they will build the shocks with 700lb coils for no added cost. I have 700lb in the front now and I would say it rides fine, a little stiff on the street. What I'm worried about is front IFS articulation when rock crawling, and that's where I think the 600lb coils will help me.

So I guess I've settled on the 600lb coils. Thanks for helping me talk through this. Now to pony up the $.

:rofl:

Split the difference and go 650# if they are available?

 

[Inv4drZm]

Split the difference and go 650# if they are available?

They are available. That might be the best option, I would just be losing some flex. There is a good graphic at the bottom of this page.

Coilover Spring Rates for Toyota Tacoma & 4Runner | AccuTune Off-Road

 

[Inv4drZm]

So this header install has turned into more of a headache for me. For some reason the X pipe I created doesn't line up with the headers as well as it did with the stock manifolds. The past few days I've been readjusting and regasketing it all to keep it from leaking but I've only really made it worse somehow. Decided this afternoon to strategically cut up my X pipe and readjust the fitment. I just want to hear what it sounds like!! Is that too much to ask?? I should be able to reweld it back together tomorrow.

Also, does the recessed gaskets Toyota uses piss anyone else off or just me? I should have sanded the DT header flanges flat so they would work with normal gaskets. I've probably tightened and loosened my X pipe a hundred times by now.

 

[rdruss]

Get that SS log manifold finished, fitted and tested, just in case I need to replace the stock manifolds, because installing headers sounds like more of a job than I want to tackle! Not that replacing log for log won't be a PITA as well.

 

[Inv4drZm]

Get that SS log manifold finished, fitted and tested, just in case I need to replace the stock manifolds, because installing headers sounds like more of a job than I want to tackle! Not that replacing log for log won't be a PITA as well.

A log manifold will be a little easier to install vs the DT designs where it's hard to get a wrench on some of the flange bolts due to all the extra tubing.

A couple hurdles before selling these:

One of my jigs moved a little due to internal stress when I removed the long tubes.

The long tubes used to make the jigs don't have the same exact flange locations as my stock manifolds.

I don't really want to remove these long tubes and install my design for testing purposes. Though it may not be too bad since I've loosened all the corroded studs and have done the job before. Maybe someone else gets to be the guinea pig.

 

[4RunnerAquasport]

A log manifold will be a little easier to install vs the DT designs where it's hard to get a wrench on some of the flange bolts due to all the extra tubing.

A couple hurdles before selling these:

One of my jigs moved a little due to internal stress when I removed the long tubes.

The long tubes used to make the jigs don't have the same exact flange locations as my stock manifolds.

I don't really want to remove these long tubes and install my design for testing purposes. Though it may not be too bad since I've loosened all the corroded studs and have done the job before. Maybe someone else gets to be the guinea pig.

I installed my DT Y pipe 8 months before the Headers, and it didn't match up to the stock manifold driver side. Since I don't weld(practicing Mig right now), I had my buddy's shop cut it and set it right. Then of course 8 months later the drivers side header didn't match to the altered Y pipe, so I had to bring it back to them to cut the Y and get it right again. Both times the passenger side matched perfectly. I wonder if the donor trucks had some variations between years, or possibly my truck being an 03' had some "Tweener" logs and cats on it, or even replaced with a cross referenced part. They were not cracked and working perfectly, so it's anyone's guess. I've heard this tweener term mentioned a little when discussing a few Toyota models over the years.

 

[Inv4drZm]

I installed my DT Y pipe 8 months before the Headers, and it didn't match up to the stock manifold driver side. Since I don't weld(practicing Mig right now), I had my buddy's shop cut it and set it right. Then of course 8 months later the drivers side header didn't match to the altered Y pipe, so I had to bring it back to them to cut the Y and get it right again. Both times the passenger side matched perfectly. I wonder if the donor trucks had some variations between years, or possibly my truck being an 03' had some "Tweener" logs and cats on it, or even replaced with a cross referenced part. They were not cracked and working perfectly, so it's anyone's guess. I've heard this tweener term mentioned a little when discussing a few Toyota models over the years.

Good, so I'm not crazy to spend 15hrs troubleshooting and chopping up my X pipe for nothing.