Inv4drZm's Build Thread

Here's the video I took today after altering my X pipe to match the DT long tubes.

Fitup isn't perfect but after 5 tries trying to get that last piece correct, I said screw it, I can weld the gap. The flanges mate up well so that's all that matters.



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Good, so I'm not crazy to spend 15hrs troubleshooting and chopping up my X pipe for nothing.
LOL judging by the way it sounds it was worth it!
Seems like your is quieter with the duals than my single.
It almost has an old Big Block tone to it, kinda Beastly.
The old Thrush on mine has probably seen better days. Before I went on Virus Vacation (indefinitely), I had plans to add cats and a muffler.......
 
LOL judging by the way it sounds it was worth it!
Seems like your is quieter with the duals than my single.
It almost has an old Big Block tone to it, kinda Beastly.
The old Thrush on mine has probably seen better days. Before I went on Virus Vacation (indefinitely), I had plans to add cats and a muffler.......

It's surprisingly louder and drone-ier with the headers when accelerating. It drones bad at 60 but at 80 I really can't hear it.

It has some rasp above maybe 75% throttle which wasn't there before. I'm just relieved to have the exhaust leaks solved.

Maybe I'll go with two 27" mufflers vs my 18" ones to quiet it down.
 
Had a sheet of 1/8" aluminum lying around, found a jigsaw downstairs, its really nice outside, so I decided to do something with my life. With some cleaning up it should look pretty good. 1/8" is overkill but it'll work. Once I get some more jigsaw blades and material I'll make the passenger side and a small piece behind the remote reservoirs towards the front. Thought about using some gold heat reflecting foil on the backside but really I want the metal to absorb as much heat as possible. Paint the backside black then?

Debating painting the front black or I'm looking into buying a random orbital sander which will even out the finish, which I might try first. Another thing I could do is bolt some louvers on to vent some heat but keep out the dirt.







 
I don't think the heat buildup will be all that bad since you still have a rather large hole around the upper control arm, but i could be wrong.

That being said, I like it, always wondered why the splash guards weren't made of metal instead of that thin rubber.
 
Here's the video I took today after altering my X pipe to match the DT long tubes.

I watched the video several times...
QtdA6Mw.png


That being said, I like it, always wondered why the splash guards weren't made of metal instead of that thin rubber.

Needs to flex since part of it mounts and the frame and the rest on the body (fender wells)
 
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Here's the video I took today after altering my X pipe to match the DT long tubes.

Fitup isn't perfect but after 5 tries trying to get that last piece correct, I said screw it, I can weld the gap. The flanges mate up well so that's all that matters.


You gonna produce these? Sounds awesome!
 
Were the header flanges clocked wrong or even worse, like incorrect angle/length?

A bit of everything was wrong about them. Just enough it would always leak a little not necessarily during idle but during acceleration or startup.

My X Pipe I don't think was exactly spot on with the manifolds when I built it, but it worked. The headers are just enough moved it wasn't going to work so not sure how well the headers would work with a stock y pipe, maybe it would be fine.
 
King is temporarily shut down due to the virus, and I've been meaning to buy a set of LT front coilovers from them or any of their suppliers. Accutune doesn't have any in stock, or I would buy them custom valved from them. Lucky for me Wheeler's had them in stock and they should be arriving Thursday. The last set of the future highly-coveted ultra-rare pre-covid King coilovers?

Doing some research and emailing with Accutune 600lb/650lb is fine for my truck. I might try revalving them myself if I feel some improvement can be made. That'll be next on the list, then maybe 37's? :)
 
Got my coilovers in today, kinda regret going with King though.... should I be going Icon to be different and for the meme? Color would match a little better. Love my current Icons. Anyone wanting to buy a set of Kings let me know.

That being said, I'll probably start the install tomorrow. Should be super easy except for the CV rebuild I'm not looking forward to.
 
What boots you going with? I have a couple sets I should rebuild with all this time on my hands. Was looking at All Pro, but can't find any reviews. CVJ doesn't sell an outer to go with their red silicone inners. OEM is always a good option, but I was curious about the APs.

07-09FJ03-094R_IFS_BOOT_KIT

I bought the All Pro boots and the SDHQ boots when I rebuilt my axles.

I ended up using the SDHQ boots because the AP's require you to leave part of the old boot on the axle to clamp the new boot around, which I thought was stupid.

Check out this page:
Inv4drZm's Build Thread
 
Got it done this weekend even after running into a few hiccups courtesy of Bajakits axle shafts and a wrong part from Total Chaos.

To start off, I didn't expect a huge increase in wheel travel with this +2 LT kit. I measured and it's approximately 1" increase in downtravel from my extended travel Icons. That being said, the UCA uniball is real close to maxing out at the shock's full droop so it's actually a well-designed kit. You'll see that my custom machined CV's have plenty of travel left at full droop. This kit will space my tires away from the frame, and allow me to dial in a good amount of caster for firewall clearance in preparation for 37's.



One side close to done:





Wrong part shipped from TC. I believe the Tacoma spindle taper size is different than ours. I was expecting to have to grind the other side as well, but that adapter fit perfectly.



More grinding was needed on that adapter but I got it flush after trial and error:



Custom machined CV cups at full droop:





Both CV's in. I did these last because I was not looking forward to them. Turns out for good reason, the c clip holding the axle shaft to the outer bearing's spline breaks when removing the axle shaft, and the new/used Bajakits don't ship with new c clips installed already, but apparently all the other LT axle brands come with them. I salvaged inner spline c clips from the other two CV's I had laying around and ground them down to fit the outer spline's smaller groove. That sucked.

I had TC swap out my bushing UCA's for Heim UCA's which turned out to be a good idea. I used the Taco Tab cam delete kit to rigidly bolt the LCA to a maximum caster position, and installed the UCA with the factory adjustment which is the same lengths as their bushing UCA. The camber was quite a bit positive with this setup so I adjusted each UCA heim in 1.5 turns and was very surprised when it gave me .5 deg negative camber.

So I believe my final alignment numbers are:

.5 degree negative camber each side

5.85 degrees caster left side
6.45 degrees caster right side

.43 degrees toe each side

Let me know your alignment thoughts;
I believe 1 degree camber is more ideal than my .5 degree?
I might need more toe in as it wanders just a little bit on the street?

Other than that it steers good and drives well. Maybe less body roll than before. I think I made a good decision with the 600lb springs.

Yes, I did all of this in one weekend, but still need to strap it and check full bump clearance and rubbing against the upper fender. And mount the remote reservoirs.


Done:



 
I'll be selling my Icon coilovers, Camburg UCA, and stainless front brake lines, not sure on pricing or anything yet... I might have some more stuff I can sell let me think.

Parking in the garage is even harder now.

 

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