4RunnerAquasport
Senior Member
Time for a Sawzall or Fiberglass? Always a deeper Rabbit hole lol. Truck looks great though!!
Inv4drZm's Build Thread
- Thread starter Inv4drZm
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Time for a Sawzall or Fiberglass? Always a deeper Rabbit hole lol. Truck looks great though!!
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Or the cheaper and easier option of bumpstop spacers. 37's will be tricky.
With the limit straps in, I might end up with less wheel travel with 37s and LT than with 35's and midtravel. Then again it's only +2" you really can't expect a ton of travel with it.
4RunnerAquasport
Senior Member
That was one of the deciding factors for me on top of the cost of longer shocks and axles that are required for a +2. From the top of the tire at full droop to where my 35s are rubbing the inner fender well is 10" with my mid travel. That aint bad. I'd already bought the standard length kit for the 5th gen and decided to put it on the 4th becuse of cost. A lot of the trails I run are too tight for LT here in Florida. I want to do pre runner style driving but a full blown +2 or 3.5" system would not get used enough in this part of the country to warrant a LT anyway. I did decide to try and get as much as possible out of the rear suspension and I got lucky as it works pretty well with the set up I went for. I think the rear needs strapped though. I even considered selling the 1st gen, flying out west, and buying a used pre runner. I've been comparing that with the cost of building a full LT kit. Outta work now anyway so its a moot point. Have fun out there today!
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
This wheeling trip came up short-notice as an idea from our parents. It was my brother and I's birthday a couple days ago, and my dad finally found a trailer for his Jeep so he's been wanting to test it out and follow us around. We met at Tuttle and had some fun. Partway through I noticed my rear locker wasn't working. I had quickly installed the air system yesterday in preparation so I wasn't really surprised. Air still vented from each front/rear solenoid when disengaged, so not sure of the problem. I swapped air lines between front/rear lockers and upped the pressure to 70psi from 50psi and one of those changes seemed to fix it. :shrug: Still need to check it in the driveway.
Bumpstop is only contacting 2/3 of the arm...
Full bump:
Full bump vs full droop:
Lunch: 35's vs 37's vs 40's
Our parents also sold their cool gunmetal tundra and bought a blue one with chrome:
Bumpstop is only contacting 2/3 of the arm...
Full bump:
Full bump vs full droop:
Lunch: 35's vs 37's vs 40's
Our parents also sold their cool gunmetal tundra and bought a blue one with chrome:
4RunnerAquasport
Senior Member
Cool family, looks like a good time. Happy belated. Hope you get the lockers figured out. Curious about that one. My 5th gen acted up the other day giving it some exercise on the side of an empty road. Comp would run every minute or so, disengaged it and rolled about 30 feet then re engaged and it settled in. Strange....
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
I realized after I got my rear axle, which is +~3" each side, having a tire that sticks out helps act as a slider to bump you away from trees, especially if your rear end slides into one on a mud-covered rock. So now I've got sliders, tires, and bumpers each side that protect the body. I've got it all covered.
Every trail I've been on, except for the one Moab Elephant Hill obstacle where you squeeze between two rocks that are 20ft tall, +3.5" inches isn't a problem. If it becomes a problem, I'll swap to different offset wheels which pulls each side in .5-1" from where it is now. But as far as I can tell +2" LT is pointless when +3.5" is the same cost. My brother has the Dirt King +3.5" kit so we will be able to compare when he installs it. I've mentioned this but really I only got this kit because it was quite a few $ on sale, and the Marlin kit isn't out yet so this kit will get my feet wet before I decide to jump in head-first.
LT front really isn't too bad cost wise if one was to skip midtravel. Shocks are the same price as standard length. If you were upgrading to RCV's anyway, axle cost would be the same. LCA bushings are easy to replace, tighten up the suspension, and prevent alignment from moving so there are benefits of having an aftermarket LCA vs the stock arm.
4RunnerAquasport
Senior Member
Good Grief!! That thing looks like it's leaking from 4 different places? You should send them a picture with the caption "You know people can see your name on this thing". Unacceptable.
Drift Monkey
New member
How'd your alignment turn out with the Taco Tabs?
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
This is with around 3" of front lift.
I maxed out the lower control arm as far forward as possible, and shortened the front UCA heim as much as possible to pull that forward as well. Then started shortening the rear UCA heim to get my camber at 1 degree. So I have no idea what my caster is, but the lower the caster the better in my case for clearance. Toe and camber are in spec and caster is less than 5 degrees.
I'm not sure how the Taco Tabs work without an adjustable UCA unless you don't want to dial the alignment in exactly right.
Drift Monkey
New member
It's too late for me since I bought OEM bolts a while back (and greased the ever loving shit of them) before I found out about these, but I was just interested since I saw an alignment sheet off a taco with them and camber was off when set at max caster and 0 camber.
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Did you mean caster? The alignment is no different with the Taco Tabs than it is with the cam bolts, but you only get 3 options with the Taco Tabs (max, neutral, and min) and it holds the alignment more rigidly than cams. If you can't get the alignment correct with cams due to too much lift, it wouldn't be changed with the Taco Tabs.
Drift Monkey
New member
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Hey, just measured my front travel since I strapped it. 10" from the fender to the top of the 37" tire. I'm actually okay with that considering the tire doesnt fit inside the fender at all. It would be 11" with a 35. What's limiting the downtravel now is the misalignment on the heim. And I still have at least an inch of uptravel limited by the stock fenders.
4RunnerAquasport
Senior Member
Dayum! From what I've read even full blown Pre Runner front ends with custom built arms or I beams and modified fenders are strapping at 15 to 18, with extreme set ups at 21 to 23 and those are all 2wd.
So now you got me jealous again lol.
I measured my rear a couple days ago and I'm getting close to 10. So for a bolt on I'm not too disappointed.
Can't wait to see what you do with that Tundra. I been looking at those for awhile, but being outta work for the time being, that got put on hold.
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Flex test on my grandpa's trailer ramp. Really its not that bad, I may not need to cut into the firewall. Just trim some plastic and limit uptravel a little more. I realized without my 1.5" body lift I would have only 8.5" of front travel!
Rear rubs in 3 spots at once. May just need to space the bumpstop down 1/2"?
Front I didn't get fully compressed, its still 1" away from the bumpstop and 1" away from the fender:
With tire slightly turned:
Rear rubs in 3 spots at once. May just need to space the bumpstop down 1/2"?
Front I didn't get fully compressed, its still 1" away from the bumpstop and 1" away from the fender:
With tire slightly turned:
4RunnerAquasport
Senior Member
Dont know if you've seen this for the front. This is the guy who built LTDSC's bumper. The rear? Not so much, pinch welds would make that a tough job. Bump stop ext might be the only answer short term. https://www.toyota-4runner.org/1536975-post1.html
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
I've never really cared for that trimmed look. If I get to that point I think I might prefer fiberglass.
For years now I've had the idea of trimming back the sheet metal and building my own fender flares that matched the stock look. Or cut/modify existing plastic flares to be larger but still have the factory lower rolled edge. But lately I've been thinking about welding a set out of aluminum. Maybe even for front/rear/sides as long as it looked clean.
