Is "Hitch Shackle" a good idea? Also, recommendation for a tow strap.

How many bow shackles have failed? I bet way more than hitch pins. The point is that there are flawed materials available in any hardware form. Use a stainless steel pin with a properly sized strap and it will never fail and will never have a chance of becoming airborne like a shackle.

This is going to be one of those things where both approaches will work just fine. But don't try to scare people into thinking someone will be going to the hospital for using the simple "less is more approach".
 
Bending moment versus double shear. No comparison. Much much easier to bend a pin than put one in double shear and expect to shear it. You won't bend a pin in normal recovery with just a portion of your GVW. Put the same vehicle sunk up to the frame in frozen mud and rock and you double the GVW easily. I have bent a pin. I have never sheared one.
 
Not scaring anyone. My statement was for the most part a generalization. Any kind of heavy rigging is inherently dangerous, simple, complex, whatever and a common consequence of failure can be injury. That's all.

I would say the failure rate is probably sixes. More bow shackles only because more people use them. Which in turn more people don't know any better or they're cheap and buy unrated substandard rigging.
 
That Factor 55 is one good looking rear D-ring! Ugh. Every time I see their stuff I feel my pockets getting lighter.

Already tryn to save up to swap my wire rope to synth line and get one of their winch links ($150 or so just for that :jaw: ) and now I see this. For anyone thinking of the SSSouthern winch bumper, do yourself a favor and go hawse fairlead to begin with, just look at my pics lol

My biggest worry would be someone helping themselves to the D-ring. Already take my one D-ring off my front bumper due to potential theft.

Have a Warn shackle receiver but normally leave my big 'ol pintle/ball combo on since I move a lot of small light towers/generators for work.


- Jeff
 
Bending moment versus double shear. No comparison. Much much easier to bend a pin than put one in double shear and expect to shear it. You won't bend a pin in normal recovery with just a portion of your GVW. Put the same vehicle sunk up to the frame in frozen mud and rock and you double the GVW easily. I have bent a pin. I have never sheared one.


For any shear to occur, the tolerances between the mating parts would have to be much tighter that occurs between a hitch receiver and a mating part. The pin would bend to the point of failure.
 
Never liked the hook version but use a D shackle all of the time and one lives permanently in my rear hitch. Smart to carry at least one extra to use with straps. Don't skimp on either.

When using a shackle remember to turn back a 1/4 turn after tightening so it doesn't bind.

For what it's worth, I work in the power generation industry and we do not turn it back the 1/4 turn any longer. Hand tight
 
Is 2x all that is needed? Or is it better to keep the rating at 2-3x GVW vs. a 30,000lb rated strap?

The general idea of an elastic strap is that it needs to stretch making for a much less violent application of force and reduced risk of damage. So a strap that is too stiff will not work as well as an appropriately sized one. That's not to say it won't work. It just won't work quite as well. Of course no two pulls are the same, so we just try to guess somewhere near the max we anticipate pulling and stop there.

I don't think you are likely to need 30,000lbs of force on a 4runner anytime soon. I have a 9,000lb winch and I'd be extremely surprised if I could ever stall it with anything I could do in a basically stock 4runner. So I guess my point is that the vast majority of pulls are probably well under 5,000lbs and it's pretty unlikely to exceed 10k lbs.
 
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Why? I've had to use pliers to get my off when I or a friend forgot to turn back a bit.

My theory...If the pin is loose, it allows more stress and possible distortion on the throat of the shackle. Id rather deal with a stuck pin, than ruin a shackle.
 
The general idea of an elastic strap is that it needs to stretch making for a much less violent application of force and reduced risk of damage. So a strap that is too stiff will not work as well as an appropriately sized one. That's not to say it won't work. It just won't work quite as well. Of course no two pulls are the same, so we just try to guess somewhere near the max we anticipate pulling and stop there.

I don't think you are likely to need 30,000lbs of force on a 4runner anytime soon. I have a 9,000lb winch and I'd be extremely surprised if I could ever stall it with anything I could do in a basically stock 4runner. So I guess my point is that the vast majority of pulls are probably well under 5,000lbs and it's pretty unlikely to exceed 10k lbs.

Not all straps are elastic (or elastic enough to be called a snatch strap)... The true snatch straps stretch about 20%. The guideline for optimal capacity is 2.5-3x vehicle weight. It's generally not a big deal if the strap fails, it is huge deal if the hardware (shackles., recovery points...) attached to it fails. For a static recovery, the rating guide is more like 1.5-2x.
 
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hmmm.... sure do like that Factor 55 more than my Smitty... better fit, doesnt stick out as far.
my issue with the F55 is that its aluminum, and can only be used for straight ling pulls. there have been more than a few times I needed to pull on an angle, and the steel piece is up to the task.

Also, like [MENTION=6163]phillyd2[/MENTION] mentioned, make sure to back the pin of your shackle off about half a turn after you tighten it. When the shackle rotates as you pull the other vehicle the pin can fuse in there if it's tightened down all the way and you might need a plasma cutter to get it off.
I would guess I have used straps, and d ring shackles more than most, and I have never had to do that.

besides, a screwdriver or pliers will easily loosen it.



For what it's worth, I work in the power generation industry and we do not turn it back the 1/4 turn any longer. Hand tight
hand tight for me as well. have yet to run into any issues.

Why? I've had to use pliers to get my off when I or a friend forgot to turn back a bit.
why is that a bad thing? at least you know its tight.

I have lost pins before, because they weren't tight enough. typically I have a strap attached to my rear recover point at all times. its just good habit to always tighten the pin, so it doesn't vibrate out.

My theory...If the pin is loose, it allows more stress and possible distortion on the throat of the shackle. Id rather deal with a stuck pin, than ruin a shackle.

yes, any movement is bad, that's when things break/fail.
 
My theory...If the pin is loose, it allows more stress and possible distortion on the throat of the shackle. Id rather deal with a stuck pin, than ruin a shackle.

A stuck pin on the trail results in a stuck strap. Turning it back allows for it to tighten down when under load, but stops it from becoming impossible to loosen.

I'd rather ruin a shackle over making a strap useless cause you've gotten it stuck to a shackle and whatever your pulling or being pulled by.
 
Not all straps are elastic (or elastic enough to be called a snatch strap)... The true snatch straps stretch about 20%. The guideline for optimal capacity is 2.5-3x vehicle weight. It's generally not a big deal if the strap fails, it is huge deal if the hardware (shackles., recovery points...) attached to it fails. For a static recovery, the rating guide is more like 1.5-2x.

my straps are rated at 20k, and 30k. I think 20k is the smallest I would want.

IMO, the strongest strap you can afford, and that isnt overly bulky is best.
 
A stuck pin on the trail results in a stuck strap. Turning it back allows for it to tighten down when under load, but stops it from becoming impossible to loosen.

I'd rather ruin a shackle over making a strap useless cause you've gotten it stuck to a shackle and whatever your pulling or being pulled by.

its not like they get welded together. pliers or a screw driver(mine have holes in the pin handle) and its off.

plus, in the many years, and hundreds of uses, I have never seen this happen to a degree that it was a problem.
 
Not all straps are elastic (or elastic enough to be called a snatch strap)... The true snatch straps stretch about 20%. The guideline for optimal capacity is 2.5-3x vehicle weight. It's generally not a big deal if the strap fails, it is huge deal if the hardware (shackles., recovery points...) attached to it fails. For a static recovery, the rating guide is more like 1.5-2x.

Agreed. There's a big difference between elastic type straps and traditional nylon nonstretch tow straps. With the non-stretch style bigger is pretty much always better and the loads experienced are much greater. I'm not sure the two should really be treated together in terms of tensile strength rating. The same pull (vehicle reaching the end of the strap at x speed) on a tow strap might cause an instantaneous force of many multiples of that with a snatch strap. So the ratings aren't entirely comparable between the two. With a snatch strap you should be able to use lighter hardware all around with a lower tensile strength strap rating. On the extreme is winch pulls that slowly reach the threshold of movement for the stuck vehicle and use a much smaller set of required hardware.
 
Agreed. There's a big difference between elastic type straps and traditional nylon nonstretch tow straps. With the non-stretch style bigger is pretty much always better and the loads experienced are much greater. I'm not sure the two should really be treated together in terms of tensile strength rating. The same pull (vehicle reaching the end of the strap at x speed) on a tow strap might cause an instantaneous force of many multiples of that with a snatch strap. So the ratings aren't entirely comparable between the two. With a snatch strap you should be able to use lighter hardware all around with a lower tensile strength strap rating. On the extreme is winch pulls that slowly reach the threshold of movement for the stuck vehicle and use a much smaller set of required hardware.

Yea you are correct. I was thinking more in terms of winch and line capacity... But people using tow straps like a snatch strap can get themselves in a bunch of trouble. I've seen people think they can be used the same way.

If you are using a tow strap correctly, it should see lighter loads than the snatch strap, but the shock load potential is much higher with a tow strap.
 
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I love my Factor 55 HitchLink

10723.jpg


Product Description

Use your receiver as a recovery tow point.
•Lightweight precision CNC machined 6000 series aluminum
•Weighs only 1.9 pounds. Steel versions weigh up to 8 pounds
•Rated at 9500 pounds
•Ultimate failure at 51,000 pounds
•Fits standard 2 inch receivers
•Fits common ¾ screw pin shackles/D-Rings
•Anodized or powder coated for oxidation protection

MADE IN USA
WARNING:
Never exceed factory receiver hitch pull rating

Always use a quality steel alloy 5/8” hitch pin

Always pull in line with the hitch, do not bind or side load the shackle

Nice suggestion Saker....I went to the factor 55 site and after putting some things in the cart noticed they have a coupon box area. Does anyone know if this site (or any other comparable site) has a valid coupon for a little better price?

Thanks in advance for any help, I'd rather buy from Factor 55 but there's a significant price difference from Smittybilt.
 
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Greetings
This is directed to Jetboy but all sources welcomed--
Jetboy you said that the shackle should hang vertically; I can see why but I can't find any makers who provide this orientation. who makes one?
Also if this vertical hang is better why make any horizontally oriented?
Thanks
 

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