Is it worth it to get these fixes done?

[SeaFahrer]

Hey all,

Hoping to join the 4runner nation, but just took a potential rig to the mechanic and wanted some input on if I should go through with it or hold off. I wasnt sure what fixes were mandatory and what were just normal for a 4unner of this age.

Its a 1998 Limited with the 3.4L V6, automatic, has 210k miles on it, 1 owner, clean carfax, timing belt last done at 150k.

Estimates from the mechanic after a PPI:

Valve cover gasket leak - $500

210k service with new plug wires and fluids flushes - $1075 (this is the one where I thought I could do the flushes myself, have done coolant on my GF's car, and wasnt sure if actually needed new spark plugs?)

Rear Pinion bearing - $1090 (there is some grinding noise while decelerating that they think is the rear pinion bearing, but cant be sure without opening it up and could be other issues causing it)

U-joints were dry - lubed for free

Missing right front sway bar link - $50 to put on (owner has the part but hasnt put it on, seems like this isnt necessary anyways)

Would love some input if some of these fixes are mandatory or just the shop trying to scratch some money out of it. In particular I wasnt sure about the 210k service that would cost a grand, but was also pretty concerned about the grinding noise. It isnt super loud, but noticeable at low speeds.

Many thanks in advance!

 

[eddielasvegas]

Hard to answer that question without knowing the purchase price of the T4R?

That is a lot of money IMO unless the price is a great deal. Your purchase price should reflect these issues. If the seller does not agree, say thank you very much and walk.

Some of these prices seem high. The VC and spark plug/wires and flushes at $1,600 is just ridiculous IMHO.

Most of this work is not difficult if you have the inclination and work area.

If not, I'd find a trusted mechanic and get a second estimate on the repairs.

Good luck,

Eddie

 

[calimobber]

Hey all,

Hoping to join the 4runner nation, but just took a potential rig to the mechanic and wanted some input on if I should go through with it or hold off. I wasnt sure what fixes were mandatory and what were just normal for a 4unner of this age.

Its a 1998 Limited with the 3.4L V6, automatic, has 210k miles on it, 1 owner, clean carfax, timing belt last done at 150k.

Estimates from the mechanic after a PPI:

Valve cover gasket leak - $500

Not really needed unless its bad. You can try tighting up the vavle cover bolts and that should cut it down alot then monitor and see how bad it it.( you can get a can of engine cleaner and soak them to clean and inspect the leak better. Mines been leaking for 100k since I got it, I tightened the bolts and its very limited now and not worth my time and money.


210k service with new plug wires and fluids flushes - $1075 (this is the one where I thought I could do the flushes myself, have done coolant on my GF's car, and wasnt sure if actually needed new spark plugs?)

Spark plugs should be checked but wires are optional. I replaced my wires at like 240k, didnt really notice any diffence but it made me feel better haha. You can do all that work by yourself for under $200. Youtube will walk you through it all.

Rear Pinion bearing - $1090 (there is some grinding noise while decelerating that they think is the rear pinion bearing, but cant be sure without opening it up and could be other issues causing it)

My front deff blew at 200k. It was making noise for a while so you should check it. I picked up a $250 used front diff and replaced myself, its been 50k miles since then.

U-joints were dry - lubed for free

Missing right front sway bar link - $50 to put on (owner has the part but hasnt put it on, seems like this isnt necessary anyways)

Would love some input if some of these fixes are mandatory or just the shop trying to scratch some money out of it. In particular I wasnt sure about the 210k service that would cost a grand, but was also pretty concerned about the grinding noise. It isnt super loud, but noticeable at low speeds.

Many thanks in advance!

Only thing thats really a big deal would be to keep an eye on the noisey differential. the rest is preventative and peace of mind.

 

[SeaFahrer]

Hey Eddie,

Asking price was $4000, but I got it down to $3000 due to the timing belt needing to be done soon. I'm not sure how much further they would go. Normally these rigs go for $4500-$5000 in the Denver area with over 200k and some dents and dings.

I have the desire to be able to do these myself, my only concern was the rear pinion bearing which is something I'm not familiar with and the mechanic made it seem like it would be tough to get in there and diagnose.

Thanks!

 

[phattyduck]

Rear diff can be removed/installed fairly easy by yourself. Doing the gears themselves takes skill and specialized tools.

You might be able to do an exchange or similar with a trusted shop. Or, if you can send it out (waiting for a few weeks), have Zuk rebuild it for you.

-Charlie

 

[SeaFahrer]

Originally posted by calimobber:


"My front deff blew at 200k. It was making noise for a while so you should check it. I picked up a $250 used front diff and replaced myself, its been 50k miles since then."

Both you and Phattyduck have mentioned just buying a replacement differential and swapping them. Is there a reason I wouldnt go this route and would just try to fix the existing one instead?

Seems like a much cheaper option to try and find one that would plug and play. I'm a little worried since this has the locking rear differential so would that complicate things at all, or just ensure that I needed to find an exact match of a part.

 

[Endlessblockades]

Hey all,

Hoping to join the 4runner nation, but just took a potential rig to the mechanic and wanted some input on if I should go through with it or hold off. I wasnt sure what fixes were mandatory and what were just normal for a 4unner of this age.

Its a 1998 Limited with the 3.4L V6, automatic, has 210k miles on it, 1 owner, clean carfax, timing belt last done at 150k.

Estimates from the mechanic after a PPI:

Valve cover gasket leak - $500

210k service with new plug wires and fluids flushes - $1075 (this is the one where I thought I could do the flushes myself, have done coolant on my GF's car, and wasnt sure if actually needed new spark plugs?)

Rear Pinion bearing - $1090 (there is some grinding noise while decelerating that they think is the rear pinion bearing, but cant be sure without opening it up and could be other issues causing it)

U-joints were dry - lubed for free

Missing right front sway bar link - $50 to put on (owner has the part but hasnt put it on, seems like this isnt necessary anyways)

Many thanks in advance!

Is the 'mechanic' a Toyota employee? Those prices seem extreme and I live in the land of high prices.

It is a good idea to do the valve cover gaskets on these rigs as they all leak and can make a mess of other components. They are usually done in conjunction with new plugs and wires as overall labor charges will be reduced if you are having it done. That should be not be much more that 700$ at full shop labor rates and the correct Japanese wires and plugs. Less depending what your local labor rates are. You should also really consider replacing the ball joints if they appear to be original. That should also be done in conjunction with the inevitable suspension upgrade you will want to do, again, to save labor charges. I did both upper and lowers, but the LBJs are crucial and only OEM parts should be used there. If you have tools and some automotive common sense, a lot can be done with all the excellent how-to videos out there - see YT for Timmy the Tool Man 3rd gen 4runner series.

Drain and replace the rear diff gear oil yourself - very easy - and see how it sounds.

These do cost some money to bring back to safe DD/off road spec but are WELL worth it in the low 200k mileage range, IMO.

Welcome to the rabbit hole.

P.S. I have had to have more $hop help then I would like because I have no garage, yard, or even driveway to work in. I usually find a vacant parking lot. Here i am on Sunday checking the torque on the wheel spaces I previously installed on an empty pier. Yes, a security guard paid me a visit.....

 

[SeaFahrer]

These do cost some money to bring back to safe DD/off road spec but are WELL worth it in the low 200k mileage range, IMO.

Welcome to the rabbit hole.

Hoo boy, yeah I was attracted to these because I thought they wouldnt cost me much in repairs and the like because they are so 'reliable'. Guess money has to go in first to make sure they stay that way though.

I'm starting to think I can do the spark plugs and wires myself after watching some videos. The valve cover gaskets someone else mentioned just tightening, but if the timing belt could be done soon anyways maybe I should just do it all at the same time.

My biggest concern is the differential parts needing to be fixed or swapped out entirely and feeling out of my depth there.

Wondering if it would be better to stick with this at $3000 and do the repairs. Or buy something else at $4500 that maybe has had the timing belt done, but then probably not suspension or other stuff.

 

[Endlessblockades]

Hoo boy, yeah I was attracted to these because I thought they wouldnt cost me much in repairs and the like because they are so 'reliable'. Guess money has to go in first to make sure they stay that way though.

I'm starting to think I can do the spark plugs and wires myself after watching some videos. The valve cover gaskets someone else mentioned just tightening, but if the timing belt could be done soon anyways maybe I should just do it all at the same time.

My biggest concern is the differential parts needing to be fixed or swapped out entirely and feeling out of my depth there.

Wondering if it would be better to stick with this at $3000 and do the repairs. Or buy something else at $4500 that maybe has had the timing belt done, but then probably not suspension or other stuff.

If you do get the truck, for sure give the valve cover bolts a turn but don't over-tighten them. Then clean up the seam with a rag and monitor the seep rate.. That's not an urgent issue nor are the plugs and wires if it runs good. Like someone said, new pinion gears aren't real expensive nor are remanufactured or junkyard parts - they are still common. These are very reliable and capable, but any 20+ year old vehicle is going to need a little rehab. Do you have any photos to upload?

 

[eddielasvegas]

SeaFahrer? In Denver?

You are farther away from the sea than I am.

Thanks for price info and that seems fair enough given the info and if the T4R only has those issues. Did you mention the diff issue with the seller? Maybe use that for another $500 off, but I know these are crazy popular in your area. Sounds like that fix is not too bad $ wise based on the comments here.

Spend a couple grand at most (after you find another mechanic) and you should be good for some time.

I would not worry about the TB for a couple years. These are non-interference engines so a break is only inconvenient not catastrophic. I had a 2000 LS 400 (interference engine) I bought in 2018 with 145k miles. It was on its original TB. I drove it back from SoCal and had it changed within the week, but the belts are very hardy, especially if OE.


Good luck and keep us posted,

Eddie

Hey Eddie,

Asking price was $4000, but I got it down to $3000 due to the timing belt needing to be done soon. I'm not sure how much further they would go. Normally these rigs go for $4500-$5000 in the Denver area with over 200k and some dents and dings.

I have the desire to be able to do these myself, my only concern was the rear pinion bearing which is something I'm not familiar with and the mechanic made it seem like it would be tough to get in there and diagnose.

Thanks!

 

[phattyduck]

Both you and Phattyduck have mentioned just buying a replacement differential and swapping them. Is there a reason I wouldnt go this route and would just try to fix the existing one instead?

Seems like a much cheaper option to try and find one that would plug and play. I'm a little worried since this has the locking rear differential so would that complicate things at all, or just ensure that I needed to find an exact match of a part.

Doing the removal and replacement portion of the diff work will save you a fair amount of money, that's why we mention it. Since this 4Runner has a locker, it will be a bit more expensive (ok, a LOT more expensive) to find a used one in good shape - it will likely be cheaper to fix your current one.

As for reliable... try any other 20 year old truck and see what it takes to keep it running - or maybe a German car. They are incredibly reliable for their age and relatively cheap to keep running if you can do most things DIY. They are not so cheap if you pay a shop and want to keep it in tip-top shape - though still cheaper than a car payment and/or depreciation on a new vehicle.

-Charlie

 

[SeaFahrer]

Spend a couple grand at most (after you find another mechanic) and you should be good for some time.

You weren't kidding, just found some local Yota guys who say they are very familiar with the rear pinion on these going bad and can fix it for only $600. 9/10 fixes the whole problem, 1/10 you need a whole new diff. Bit worried because I'm not sure who long its been driven like this so could have warped the gears inside. But for $600 seems like a good deal to figure it out for me.

thinking I'll dirty my hands on the spark plugs and valve cover gaskets, but after watching some videos on replacing the rear diff that seemed a bit over my head currently

Will try and post some pics! Not sure how to yet XD

 

[SeaFahrer]

Does anyone know what this hose is (imgur link below)? The green hose has a crack in it. Hard to find diagrams I can understand online, maybe the PCV hose?


Imgur: The magic of the Internet

 

[Chicago3rdgen]

Does anyone know what this hose is (imgur link below)? The green hose has a crack in it. Hard to find diagrams I can understand online, maybe the PCV hose?


Imgur: The magic of the Internet

its the wiring harness cover for the wires going to your MAF

 

[Endlessblockades]

Can you lift your hood up another 6"?



heh heh.

 

[gamefreakgc]

You weren't kidding, just found some local Yota guys who say they are very familiar with the rear pinion on these going bad and can fix it for only $600. 9/10 fixes the whole problem, 1/10 you need a whole new diff. Bit worried because I'm not sure who long its been driven like this so could have warped the gears inside. But for $600 seems like a good deal to figure it out for me.

thinking I'll dirty my hands on the spark plugs and valve cover gaskets, but after watching some videos on replacing the rear diff that seemed a bit over my head currently

Will try and post some pics! Not sure how to yet XD

Chances are that mechanic who quoted you the first time doesn't even do the differential service. A lot of shops aren't equipped with the skills or tools. I asked around to have my limited-slip differential installed and they all said they contract out the differential rebuild. You were smart in asking around for a place that actually does the work, it's much cheaper that way.

That's a great idea to get your hands dirty and see how much you can do on your own, you'll save a ton of money that way. Plus if anything ever does go REALLY wrong, just have it towed to a shop and they will fix it. Just not that first shop you brought it to. If you can change the diff oil, change the spark plugs and wires, change the fluids (engine oil, transmission fluid and coolant) you'll be WAY ahead. Timing belt can be done but I'd ask for a mechanically inclined friend to help you because there are some things that can go wrong with that job if not done right. I agree with the other post about just ignoring it. If the belt ever does break, which is extremely rare by the way, you won't hurt a thing. It just won't drive lol.

 

[SeaFahrer]

its the wiring harness cover for the wires going to your MAF

Ah ok thank you! So it doesnt matter if its cracked right?

 

[SeaFahrer]

Chances are that mechanic who quoted you the first time doesn't even do the differential service. A lot of shops aren't equipped with the skills or tools. I asked around to have my limited-slip differential installed and they all said they contract out the differential rebuild. You were smart in asking around for a place that actually does the work, it's much cheaper that way.

That's a great idea to get your hands dirty and see how much you can do on your own, you'll save a ton of money that way. Plus if anything ever does go REALLY wrong, just have it towed to a shop and they will fix it. Just not that first shop you brought it to. If you can change the diff oil, change the spark plugs and wires, change the fluids (engine oil, transmission fluid and coolant) you'll be WAY ahead. Timing belt can be done but I'd ask for a mechanically inclined friend to help you because there are some things that can go wrong with that job if not done right. I agree with the other post about just ignoring it. If the belt ever does break, which is extremely rare by the way, you won't hurt a thing. It just won't drive lol.

Thats pretty huge to learn about the timing belt. It always seems like shops claim it needs to be done or you're screwed, but its like the most expensive regular repair.

I did take a look at the valve cover gaskets after they were mentioned and they were pretty coated in oil. So hoping that a quick clean and tighten will solve that but well see. Posting some of the leakage in the below link.

Imgur: The magic of the Internet

Yeah honestly I've been wanting to get onto the next level of repair after fluids, brakes and filters that I've done. I wasnt thinking it would be on this rig because we wanted it to be a bit more ready, but no time like the present! Also so much good help and encouragement here that I'm feeling pumped :boxer:

 

[994wd]

I'm late to the party but just seeing they want $500 for a valve cover gasket job that's highway robbery and the exact reason I do all my work myself. I'll be doing my VC gaskets soon as I get the parts and even if I did take it to a shop I'd never pay that much! The gasket kit for both VCs and all seals and everything you need to replace is less than $20.

 

[SeaFahrer]

I'm late to the party but just seeing they want $500 for a valve cover gasket job that's highway robbery and the exact reason I do all my work myself. I'll be doing my VC gaskets soon as I get the parts and even if I did take it to a shop I'd never pay that much! The gasket kit for both VCs and all seals and everything you need to replace is less than $20.

Yeah definitely not heading back to that shop. Going to call around and get some quotes on that fix as well in case my tightening of the bolts doesnt solve the leaking.