Jake's '99 Limited "Build" Thread

[Team_Jake]

just found your thread. nice rig.. jealous of the manual locking hub conversion!
Bumper looks sweet too. My bother and good friend are in Carlsbad, we go wheeling together all the time. You ever look at the SoCal part of the forum?

Yeah I got lucky with the manual locking hubs.
I'll be moving to Carlsbad actually. I haven't seen the SoCal part of the forum until you mentioned it, after reading your comment I looked it up...I never knew it was there - good to know. Thanks!
We'll have to meet up sometime, if you go wheeling soon let me know!

 

[Team_Jake]

So I guess I’m committing now to a 5-speed swap. The other Jake and I spent a few hours at the salvage yard yesterday and picked all these parts off a ‘99 5VZ M/T 4Runner.

(Shout out to [MENTION=146513]APhelps[/MENTION] for finding this 4Runner and picking the ECU for me)


I still have a few more things to get:

• New master/slave cylinder connecting hard/soft lines and brackets
• Rear driveshaft spacer (and I need my front driveshaft cut ~1”)
• Clutch kit
• New flywheel bolts (and I need to get the flywheel resurfaced)
• And a shift knob for the transmission.

I’ll be keeping my multi-mode transfer case. I know people have done 5-speed swaps and kept their multi-mode transfer cases without any issues, but those have all been 01-02 multi-modes, I haven’t seen one done on a 99-00 J-shift style multi-mode so I may be the first. I imagine electrically it would essentially be the same, but if anyone out there knows this set up will not work please say something now because I’m banking on this working.

So with all that said, if anyone is looking for a J-Shift transfer case, let me know. Also if anyone is looking for perfectly running A340F transmission, let me know.

I’m not sure exactly when I’ll do the swap - I’m due to re-new my registration and get checked for smog in June/July and I’m not sure if I wanna risk not having everything in 100% working order then so I think I might wait until after that.

 

[Rolling_Thunder]

You'll have fun with a 5spd swap - I did my conversion from 2wd auto to 4x4 5spd in my 98 SR5... also adding a elocker currently and keeping my eyes out for a multi-mode - I figure why not.

 

[Team_Jake]

Getting closer! I just finished painting it, will probably install it on Sunday.

 

[Team_Jake]

The front bumper is finally installed!!

Because the bumper has no turn signals, I incorporated the turn signals into the marker lights. I just clipped the positive lead of the turn signal and the ground from the marker lights and connected the two. This set up is what is called a "floating ground". The turn signals work just like normal with the marker lights off. With the marker lights on and the turn signal on, the turn signal is flipped so that whenever a signal is sent to positive turn signal wire, the marker light turns off, and then back on when no signal is sent to the positive turn signal wire. Because the marker bulb is a much lower wattage than the turn signal bulb, it causes the light to "hyperblink", so I'll need to get a new flash relay. I'll update this post with that relay when I get it.

EDIT: I redid the electrical to the turn signal / marker lights. I was getting some strang backfeed when a turn signal was on and the marker lights were off. I created a new thread detailing everything here HOW TO: Turn Signal / Marker Light Combo WITHOUT Drilling into Marker Light Housing

I still need to do a few other things. The winch is mounted but nothing is hooked up - I'll likely be doing all of that this weekend. I'd like to get another fairlead, the one that comes with the warn winch is very bulky looking, I'd rather have something a little more low profile.

I'll also need to get a wireless remote, the control box is tucked behind the bumper just inside of the passenger side fog light and will be difficult to access, but it's nice to have the control box out of the way.

Also, I need to trim some of the wheel well plastic and sheet metal brackets that are hanging below the bumper. I may also wet sand it and add a clear coat to clean up some of the paint spots, not sure yet, I'll give it a week or so before making a decision. I'd like to also paint match the skid.

Overall though, I like how it came out. Its super beefy, low profile, high clearance, and clean, which is everything I was shooting for when I started this.

 

[Team_Jake]

Did a couple minor things over the last couple of weekends.

I trimmed a little bit of the front wheel well areas, now no more rubbing! I also added an OEM bug deflector PT427-89011, just to give the front a little fuller look.

 

[Team_Jake]

The manny tranny swap is underway!

Auto tranny is out (and for sale):

5-speed tranny (freshly rebuilt by Marlin Crawler) and multi-mode transfer case are hooked up:

What’s this third pedal?

Starting to get excited! :rockon:

 

[Team_Jake]

My 4Runner is now out of the garage and driving under it's own power!

The 5-speed swap is (mostly) complete, there are still a few ends to tie down.

What's left:

Electrical -

The only electrical modification I made was connecting two of the park/neutral safety switch wires together, (wires that connected to pins 5 and 6). I still need to wire up the clutch depress/release switches and clutch start cancel button.

I cut all the wires from the park-neutral safety switch, attached the 4 wires needed to send to the interior to a weatherproof electrical connector underneath the shifter (I used these), drilled a hole at the front passenger side of the shifter hole, press fit a grommet, and fed the wires through there, which will make it easy to do all the interior wires when I feel like doing it.

Shifter -

I put the j-shift transfer case shifter in my multi-mode transfer case for the time being. I'll have to cut the kink out of my multi-mode shifter so it can fit properly.

Interior -

I ordered a new leather shift boot from eBay, and I'm still waiting to get that and install it.

ECU -

There's a problem with my new ECU (I'll explain what's going on in the next post), so I am currently using my A/T ECU. If anyone has an idea on what's going on please chime in.


What I've Learned:
- This job was not very hard (at least if you have a '99-'02 and don't need to change out the wiring harness or re-pin the wires to the ECU). If you feel comfortable doing a timing belt job, then you can do this. Just do some research (I read [MENTION=116470]Tyler James Inc[/MENTION]'s thread a few times and bought myself the 1999 4Runner Factory Service Manual and Electrical Wiring Diagram).
- The exhaust does NOT have to be removed, even though the FSM says to remove it. It would make the job easier if it were out of the way, but nothing was too difficult to get to with it there.
- My Multi-mode WORKS with this transmission, I am able to shift into AWD.
- The driveshafts do NOT have to be modified. Since the M/T is 1.25" shorter than the A/T, I bought a 1.25" driveshaft spacer from Low Range Off Road (this one here) for the rear driveshaft. For the front, there is approximately 2.5" of compression travel in the slip yoke, but because the front differential and transfer case are mostly fixed in place, there is no need for that much travel in the slip yoke. To shorten the driveshaft, I took a small screwdriver and pressed the stem of the zerk fitting and compressed the driveshaft until it collapsed 1.25". Be prepared because grease will come out of the zerk fitting.
- No special tools are required. Basic tools, drills, and a transmission jack are all you need. Just be sure you have a few extensions and swivels to get the top bolts of the bell housing of the transmission.

Overall it was a fun job. It took me ~5 full days to complete, but I am methodical when I work on my truck so I take things slow and think things through. If I were to do this job again I could probably finish it in about half the time.

First impressions:
- It was STRANGE driving my truck the first time! I've had it for 6 years as an auto, and it felt weird the first time to drive it as a manual.
- It feels like it is geared properly now. Since my tires are 33.5", I felt my stock 4.30:1 gears were not quite enough. The M/T is geared lower than the Auto, and the standard gear ratio for the 5VZ M/T 4Runners was 4.10:1, so I'm actually very happy with the gears/tire-size I have now.

After driving it for a couple of days I am very happy with it. I wanted to do this because I wanted my daily driver to be more fun to drive, now I have a blast every time I drive it. Every car I've owned before this 4Runner has had a M/T, with this 4Runner being my first Auto...well now I can say every vehicle I've owned has had a M/T.

And for what I know, I believe I am the first person to swap a manual into a '99-'00 limited and keep the multi-mode.

 

[Team_Jake]

ECM Problems

There is one big problem I encountered when performing the swap, the new ECU I had wasn't working. I'll explain everything I know and if anyone has any insight on what I can do please chime in.

My Auto ECU (stock) is for a 1999 4Runner, 5VZ, 4x4, A/T, California Spec, which is part number 89661-3D600. The new ECU I got was part number 89661-3D590, which is for a 1999 4Runner, 5VZ, 4x4, M/T, California Spec, which I got from another member on the forum who found the 4Runner in a junk yard in Chula Vista (southern San Diego, CA, which ended up being the same 4Runner I picked the rest of the parts from).

The nice thing about these two ECUs is that they have the same pinout, meaning they are plug-and-play, so during my swap, I pulled my stock ECU out and plugged the new ECU in. When I was ready to start my 4Runner for the first time, all the electronics in the vehicle seemed to work, but once I tried starting it, it would crank and crank but would not start. I tried a handful of times but it would not start! After some quick diagnosing, I found that there was no spark being sent to the spark plugs, which was very puzzling to me. The only electrical change I made that could affect my engine was changing the ECU, so I decided to try my stock Auto ECU. After plugging it in and turning the key, it started right up! Just to double check, I tried the M/T ECU one more time, same thing, crank but no start. I am now running my 4Runner with my Auto ECU and I have 5 lovely check engine light codes related to shift solenoid issues. (BTW I just had my smog checked last month so I'm not in a time crunch to figure this out, but I would like to get it figured out well before the next smog check in two years)

This must mean there is a problem with M/T ECU right? Well I took it apart to see if there was anything obviously wrong with it (burnt diodes or anything like that)

As you can probably tell from the photos, this ECU looks prestine! I could not find anything that looked out of the ordinary. I even followed the pins that control the igniters to see if there was anything that looked wrong with the components, and it all appeared to be perfect.

So what is going on that would do this? Does this ECU need to be re-programmed or something? I do know the 4Runner I pulled it from was involved in a front end collision, could that event have triggered something in the ECU to stop sending a signal to the igniters and the ECU needs to be reset or something like that? Is it at all possible to have my stock Auto ECU re-programmed to ignore any A/T parameters?

And who should I send this to? Anyone know of any reputable ECU repair / re-programming shops if it is determined that that is what I need to do? I'd prefer to get this one fixed because these ECUs are NOT cheap, the only one I can find online for sale right now is $600 :doh:

Thanks in advanced!!

 

[phattyduck]

This problem may be immobilizer based. Your Limited had/has the immobilizer system, but SR5 and base models for '00/'99 don't. Try leaving the smallest connector on the ECU (C or E11) unplugged with the MT ECU and see if it works.

I don't see anything obvious in the diagrams that would hint that a non-immobilizer ECU can't run an immobilizer truck... but I may be missing something.

-Charlie

 

[Team_Jake]

This problem may be immobilizer based. Your Limited had/has the immobilizer system, but SR5 and base models for '00/'99 don't. Try leaving the smallest connector on the ECU (C or E11) unplugged with the MT ECU and see if it works.

I don't see anything obvious in the diagrams that would hint that a non-immobilizer ECU can't run an immobilizer truck... but I may be missing something.

-Charlie

Okay I hadn't thought about that yet. I'll take a look at the immobilizer section of the EWD and see what I need to change.

 

[Team_Jake]

This problem may be immobilizer based. Your Limited had/has the immobilizer system, but SR5 and base models for '00/'99 don't. Try leaving the smallest connector on the ECU (C or E11) unplugged with the MT ECU and see if it works.

I don't see anything obvious in the diagrams that would hint that a non-immobilizer ECU can't run an immobilizer truck... but I may be missing something.

-Charlie

Alright, I unplugged the E11 block from the M/T ECU and tried starting it, it still cranks but won't start. I'm not sure unplugging that block rules out the immobilizer though.

Anyone have any other thoughts?

EDIT: After doing some research, I'm 99% sure this has to do with the immobilizer system and the ECU will have to be re-programmed, which is WAY past my level of expertise.

ANOTHER EDIT: After doing a little more research, I found that the immobilizer system was standard on all Limited's in 1999, but came as an option in base and SR5 models. This means the ECUs made for those models should come with the ability to run the immobilizer system on mine. And to prove M/T SR5s did have that option, the EWD shows two different electrical connectors between the A/T and M/T (the wiring is the same, it's just the physical geometry of the connector that is different). Also, the IC900 chip is present on the M/T ECU, which I'm pretty sure is the chip that stores the key values which must match in order to start the engine.

It may be that the original 4Runner that this ECU came from never had the immobilizer system and therefore no values are stored in the IC900 chip, so I may be able to program my chipped keys without needing to re-flash the ECU. I'll try that first, and if that doesn't work then I'll take this ECU to a certified locksmith to get it re-flashed.

 

[phattyduck]

Now we are getting somewhere. I wasn't aware that the immobilizer was an option on the SR5's. It would have to be a factory option, as there are component differences elsewhere in the truck (transponder key reader, security light next to the passenger seatbelt warning, etc.). My SR5 was lightly optioned (no sunroof!), so I just missed it as a possibility.

From what I could tell, the ECU itself has the same part number for immobilizer and non-immobilizer trucks. That may be worth verifying. If so, it should be able to be programmed either way.

There are a few posts out on the internet on reprogramming the immobilizer, that might be worth a search too...

-Charlie

 

[Team_Jake]

I had an appointment with a local locksmith today who claimed he could fix my immobilizer problem with the new manual ECU. I asked to see if he could re-flash the manual ECU back into registration mode so I could program my keys to work that ECU. He did something better instead.

He took my Auto ECU first, clipped the EEPROM reader onto my IC900 chip, and then he was able to find the immobilizer codes. He copied the values on my chip, then clipped the EEPROM reader onto my IC900 chip on my manual ECU, and pasted those values. So all my keys work with the new manual ECU without needing to program any of them. He charged $160 which I thought was a fair price.

After he made the change, I plugged in the manual ECU, and it started right up! I drove it for ~20 miles today with the new manual ECU, it seems like everything works just fine...and no more CEL!!

 

[phattyduck]

After he made the change, I plugged in the manual ECU, and it started right up! I drove it for ~20 miles today with the new manual ECU, it seems like everything works just fine...and no more CEL!!

Awesome!

-Charlie

 

[Team_Jake]

Wired in the Clutch Start Cancel Switch and it works!

I moved the Rear Diff lock Switch and put the Clutch Start Cancel Switch at the Factory Rear Diff Lock Switch location.

Also got the leather shifter boot, the interior looks stock now.

I tried wiring up the Clutch Depress Switch, but it looks like the switch doesn't work, I'll need to take it apart and see if it can be fixed. In the mean time though, I jumped the pins on the connector so I don't need to use the Clutch Start Cancel Switch every time I want to start the truck.

I also tried wiring in the Clutch Release Switch to be able to use cruise control, and I am not able to get it working, even after jumping the switch, I cannot get cruise control to work...I'm not sure if it's a bad connection or what, I'll post more details later to see if anyone has some insight.

 

[HugeFatChick]

throw a supercharger on there and you would have done everything that i want to do to my T4r

 

[nedceifus]

[MENTION=280676]HawkPlt[/MENTION] [MENTION=278551]youwitdaface[/MENTION]

I guess I'll throw in a little teaser...

Goals:

• High clearance and high approach angle
• Line up with fender flares
• Light weight
• Clean and low profile

I basically incorporated the design of every bumper I liked, there's a little bit of Shrockworks, Addicted Offroad, and Outdoor Logic in there.

The winch mount plates and internal frame is 0.25", the d-shackle mounts are 0.75", and the rest is 10-gauge steel (I might switch to something thicker, not sure yet). Currently it weighs 82.66 lbs, I'd like to keep it under 100 lbs once I add a hoop and mounts that will attach to the wings. Fog lights are made to fit Baja Designs Squadron Sports/Pros. The winch plate is made to fit the Warn M8000. The vertical frame will also be able to mount the winch control box and keep it hidden from view, and an extended control cable will be routed to the top of the bumper through a hole I haven't added yet.

I'm using the frame brackets from Shrockworks because their bumper attachment points are superior to anything else I've seen. I called Shrockworks and ordered a set of the frame brackets with all the hardware, it was ~$130 total.

I made a cardboard mock-up of just the top plate of the bumper, I made 3 different cutouts before I found something that fit the way I wanted.

(I later added another edge, so the wings are 3 edges instead of 2.)

I'm not done with it yet, I still need to add a hoop to the bumper, and I will be adding mounts that will attach to the wings, plus a bunch of little things need buttoning up.

My plan of attack is to completely finish my first prototype in SolidWorks, and then make the bumper by hand out of poster board and test fit. From there I'll make adjustments, and do a 2nd, 3rd, or however many prototypes until I feel i'm ready to have it laser cut and welded together.

...

And just to throw this out there, this is actually my first time ever attempting something like this. I've never had anything laser-cut before, I've never designed car parts before, nothing like that, so if anyone sees anything I am doing wrong please chime in.

Cardboard, a mans best friend

 

[Team_Jake]

I installed a Marlin Crawler short throw shifter (which btw feels sooo much better than stock, it rides a little higher too so your not reaching as far when shifting into 1st, 3rd, or 5th gears). The little retainer cup was a pain to get seated though.

Then took the 4Runner on a fishing trip to Baja (Sea of Cortez). No wheeling, just beach driving and fishing.

Caught mostly grouper, spotted sea bass, opeleye, and trigger fish. Here is a little trigger fish I speared:

...and then ate a couple hours later (btw I had never tried trigger fish before, and it's honestly some of the best tasting fish I've ever had! If you get a change to try some, do it!!)

 

[Team_Jake]

But what I'm most excited about is my new DD:

I picked it up last Thursday for $7700. It's a 2001 Tacoma, 3RZ, 5-speed, 4wd. It has 173,000 miles, zero rust, zero leaks, and not a single thing on it that doesn't work. The only things wrong with it is a finicky driver door handle, and the gear shift has quite a bit of play, (which I figure would be a worn shifter seat/socket). This is going to be my new DD, and I will be keeping it mostly stock. This means I can do more in depth projects with the 4Runner and not be in a rush to get it street-able.