Jaw-dropping repair estimates

[Toystory2]

If you’re willing to sweat, get dirty, and work hard all those are easy to do. If you can’t weld you’ll have to pay for the frame repair.

All new factory control arms for mine cost $916 from NAPA. They were all complete with ball joints and bushings.

There’s only two bolts that need removed to get the UCA bolts out. Pull the battery to make the driver’s side easier.

Gas tank straps will suck and you might as well do a fuel pump if you get that far. At least I would.

Trans lines are easy, just have to work the hard lines through tight spots sometimes.

They did mention that 4 camber bolts would have to be replaced on the LCA, maybe that's what it's so expensive? I'll check into a fuel pump, because that is a good point. Maybe fuel filter too?

I caved on the trans lines and am letting them fix it. I hate the idea of a $5,000 trans replacement.

 

[firebirdguy]

those are some high prices for what are pretty basic repairs, there is no way upper & lower A-arms costs $3800 to replace... find a new shop!

the frame repair is hard to say without seeing it but a smaller hole can be patched without much time/effort, not sure why that would cost $1000. again find a new shop or at least check with a few others for price comparison, usually the smaller shops will have better prices than the bigger places or dealerships.

if you are mechanically inclined everything besides the frame reapir can be done with basic tools & are not difficult to do. these 4th gen 4runners are pretty easy to work on for front/rear suspension, the front/rear shocks (they are not struts) are very easy to do & once the front shock/spring is out as a unit the A-arms are very easy to get to & replace.

i suggest downloading the factory repair manual available on here or other places & to watch some youtube videos on how to do the shocks & arms etc. if you have a few hours to do the work most of this can be done & save yourself a LOT of money or find a different shop to do the work, should be easily half those prices or less.

 

[Toystory2]

These really need replaced? Let's see some pics.


You can do shocks/struts yourself. The trans lines not sure but can't be that hard. Rusted bolts are probably the only hard part. You want to do whatever you can to avoid snapping bolts.


Hit the bolts with penetrating lubricant multiple days in a row. Then get yourself a torch. I just went through a snapped skid bolt last weekend. PITA but got it done and retapped. Get anti-seize on the new bolts.


Yup, decide on the first project to tackle. Search the forums and youtube. Don't be afraid to ask for tips before starting something. Pictures of the rust severity on the particular project can be helpful to give the best advice. Sometimes the right tool or right strategy makes all the difference. No stupid questions possible. My favorite way to search is to put this into a google search box (ex. replace transmission lines):

site:4th Gen T4Rs - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum transmission lines

I'll post some pics of the CAs when I get it back. Not sure how bad they are but they said it's what causing the squeak/clunk going over bumps.

I have decided to let them do the trans cooler lines because I don't wanna risk killing the transmission.

I believe with searching (like you mentioned) I can handle most everything else.

Here's a pic of the worst spot of rust:

 

[Toystory2]

those are some high prices for what are pretty basic repairs, there is no way upper & lower A-arms costs $3800 to replace... find a new shop!

the frame repair is hard to say without seeing it but a smaller hole can be patched without much time/effort, not sure why that would cost $1000. again find a new shop or at least check with a few others for price comparison, usually the smaller shops will have better prices than the bigger places or dealerships.

if you are mechanically inclined everything besides the frame reapir can be done with basic tools & are not difficult to do. these 4th gen 4runners are pretty easy to work on for front/rear suspension, the front/rear shocks (they are not struts) are very easy to do & ones the front shock/spring is out as a unit the A-arms are very easy to get to & replace.

i suggest downloading the factory repair manual available on here or other places & to watch some youtube videos on how to do the shocks & arms etc. if you have a few hours to do the work most of this can be done & save yourself a LOT of money or find a different shop to do the work, should be easily half those prices or less.

Although the shop does good work and has a great reputation, I still think that is pretty high. The main things I am not sure of doing is the rust "fix" or the control arms. Here's a look at the bad spot of rust, if you have any opinions.

 

[firebirdguy]

Although the shop does good work and has a great reputation, I still think that is pretty high. The main things I am not sure of doing is the rust "fix" or the control arms. Here's a look at the bad spot of rust, if you have any opinions.

yeah that rust hole will need patched by cutting out the area until its solid metal then welding in a new piece.. but i still dont see $1000 worth or time/materials there. a few hours at $100/hr shop rate & 20 bucks worth of metal is all that should be required based on that pic... but ya never know how far they have to cut out until solid metal. again, check with some other shops, or shops more geared towards frame/suspension repair or off roading/trucks.

the A arms might need new bushings &/or ball joints if they are whats causing the squeaks/clunk but new bushings are very cheap & not difficult to replace by a shop with a press. most just buy new loaded arms from reputable aftermarket companies like moog, then its just unbolt & replace, cant see how either option would cost anywhere near $3800, even half that seems outrageous for the work thats required for that job. should be able to just call a few other shops & ask for a quote to replace the bushings & bj's or the entire arm & ask if you can bring in your own parts, so just ask for the labor rate, then buy loaded arms from napa or rock auto etc or just the bushings & bj's.

just an FYI, i have an 08 sport with 151k miles & the A-arms, baljoints/bushings are fine, just had it aligned after i replaced front & rear shocks with KYBs, cam bolts werent stuck & everything else has another 50-100k miles on it easily. i did have a clunk over bigger bumps or pot holes etc & it was the front sway bar bushings causing it... & worn out shocks. this is on a midwestern 4runner that sees lots of winter road salt etc.

best of luck getting the work done for better more fair prices. & the shops good reputation or not, those are rip off prices based on the labor time & cost of parts. if you have some time, youtube has all kinds of vids showing this work, the shocks & arms are really not difficult & no special tools are needed aside from a torque wrench for final tightening & maybe a bigger metric socket than the average guy might have.

 

[y=mx+b]

Not 3 weeks after buying a 2007 SR5, I have taken it to a mechanic to have some repairs estimated.

I am somewhat mechanically inclined, is it reasonable that I can do any of this myself?

This is what they quoted me:

With these prices, I'm going to side with they're probably gouging you and most of the services probably not needed. For example, at 210-230k miles, all of my ball joints, bushings, and all suspension was in worn but still decent condition and passed inspection without issue. I only started replacing stuff when my cam bolts seized and that snowballed into suspension stuff for offroading. But for regular road use, everything was fine.

Upper and Lower Control Arms, Shocks/Struts, and alignment: $3,800

I've got a writeup on rebuilding the LCAs if you take that route, but it is a decent amount of work. The writeup covers everything from removal of arms by sawzall and all parts/tools needed, so applicable to the straight LCA replacement option too

Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

I'm working on writeup for suspension and UCA install, not sure ETA on that, but I already have lots of pictures and info from my replacement

These are price guestimates off the top of my head for just part costs if you want to purchase yourself. Don't hold me to these, just throwing them out to give you an idea of part costs:

LCAs
OEM (McGeorge Online usually best prices, but shop around): $700-900
SuperPro Poly bushing LCA: $670
1A Auto (Cheapies to get by): $200
Time: 0.5-1 day to replace at home

Alignment HW
OEM: $150
MOOG: $50 maybe (These are trash though, get OEM)
Time: Included with LCA time

UCAs:
OEM: Not sure, but I'll look
JBA Factory Replacement or High Caster (For lifted): $450ish
SPC Adjustable (helpful for custom alignment after lift and larger tires): $630
Apache Offroad (For lifted): $550
5th gen takeoffs (lot of 5th gen guys take them off with low mileage and lift right away): $50-100
Time: 0.5-1 day to replace at home

Suspension:
KYB (Stock Replacement): $300ish I think
Dobinsons (Lift or I believe there are some stock replacement): $800-1000
5th gen takeoffs (lot of 5th gen guys take them off with low mileage and lift right away): $100-200
Time: 2-3 days. For me I needed to replace flex brake lines for longer rear shocks which snowballed into replacing hard lines all the way back so it took 4 days

Alignement
Firestone Lifetime: $200

Replace rusted trans cooler lines: $1,000

This one I would recommend taking to a shop if you're still learning car mechanics. I'd even check with the dealer on their pricing, since $1000 is a lot of cash, even a stealership might be cheaper. Also look for an independent Toyota/Lexus mechanic and get their opinion

New fuel tank straps: $600

This job isn't too terrible, don't even need to drop the tank. I disagree with the other commenter, don't do the fuel pump. You are not halfway to its replacement with just the straps. Heavily apply penetrating fluid (I like 50/50 acetone/ATF) to all the bolts and use an impact. I didn't break any and mine were crusty AF

Fuel Tank Strap Replacement Tutorial (60+ Pictures)

Part Cost: $50-75
Time: 1-2 days

New skid plates: $400 each

These aren't really critical for your vehicle to run/be safe, definitely not needed. Stock skids do provide minimal protection against road debris and such, so they are helpful in some regards. Off road skid plates of course provide more protection

The cheapest one I can think of its the LFD Offroad skid for $180 + $50 shipping (or pickup in NC)

Time to to straight replace: 1hr
If broken bolts: 1-2 days

On the broken bolts note, I would not bother with screw extractors or drill and retap. This is what I did and wasted a lot of time. The retapped holes eventually loosened up some pieces of broken bolt and the new hole isn't perfectly in the center, so they don't hole. Either weld a washer then a nut onto the bolt stump or drill out completely and rivnut

Rusted frame repair At least $1,000

This one I would also look into taking to a professional to get it taken care of right. As mentioned, they'll cut all the rusty section out, then weld in good metal.

 

[Mr_Dobalina]

Get yourself a six foot breaker bar....

My wife has a 2007 4 runner from Colorado. I completely replaced the suspension and everything was rusted to the max. I PB Blasted all the nuts for 2 weeks just about every day for two weeks and it was still a *****.

I ended up using a saws all to just cut the top nut off of all 4 shocks - which did not take long at all. I fought with them for days before hand.

Look for the video on how to use a jack vs. a spring compressor. I had to redo the front shock as aI found a washer on the floor. The second time around I took everything apart and ack together again unless than 20 minutes

 

[Flesh Eater]

They did mention that 4 camber bolts would have to be replaced on the LCA, maybe that's what it's so expensive? I'll check into a fuel pump, because that is a good point. Maybe fuel filter too?

I caved on the trans lines and am letting them fix it. I hate the idea of a $5,000 trans replacement.

Loosen the front cam bolts on the LCA by the bolt head, not the “nut.” I had to cut my rear bolts off as well as the LCA arm itself.

Man, trans lines are usually one bolt on the trans and just disconnect up front. Super easy. Like I said, working them up front is tricky.

 

[Flesh Eater]

With these prices, I'm going to side with they're probably gouging you and most of the services probably not needed. For example, at 210-230k miles, all of my ball joints, bushings, and all suspension was in worn but still decent condition and passed inspection without issue. I only started replacing stuff when my cam bolts seized and that snowballed into suspension stuff for offroading. But for regular road use, everything was fine.



I've got a writeup on rebuilding the LCAs if you take that route, but it is a decent amount of work. The writeup covers everything from removal of arms by sawzall and all parts/tools needed, so applicable to the straight LCA replacement option too

Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

I'm working on writeup for suspension and UCA install, not sure ETA on that, but I already have lots of pictures and info from my replacement

These are price guestimates off the top of my head for just part costs if you want to purchase yourself. Don't hold me to these, just throwing them out to give you an idea of part costs:

LCAs
OEM (McGeorge Online usually best prices, but shop around): $700-900
SuperPro Poly bushing LCA: $670
1A Auto (Cheapies to get by): $200
Time: 0.5-1 day to replace at home

Alignment HW
OEM: $150
MOOG: $50 maybe (These are trash though, get OEM)
Time: Included with LCA time

UCAs:
OEM: Not sure, but I'll look
JBA Factory Replacement or High Caster (For lifted): $450ish
SPC Adjustable (helpful for custom alignment after lift and larger tires): $630
Apache Offroad (For lifted): $550
5th gen takeoffs (lot of 5th gen guys take them off with low mileage and lift right away): $50-100
Time: 0.5-1 day to replace at home

Suspension:
KYB (Stock Replacement): $300ish I think
Dobinsons (Lift or I believe there are some stock replacement): $800-1000
5th gen takeoffs (lot of 5th gen guys take them off with low mileage and lift right away): $100-200
Time: 2-3 days. For me I needed to replace flex brake lines for longer rear shocks which snowballed into replacing hard lines all the way back so it took 4 days

Alignement
Firestone Lifetime: $200





This one I would recommend taking to a shop if you're still learning car mechanics. I'd even check with the dealer on their pricing, since $1000 is a lot of cash, even a stealership might be cheaper. Also look for an independent Toyota/Lexus mechanic and get their opinion


This job isn't too terrible, don't even need to drop the tank. I disagree with the other commenter, don't do the fuel pump. You are not halfway to its replacement with just the straps. Heavily apply penetrating fluid (I like 50/50 acetone/ATF) to all the bolts and use an impact. I didn't break any and mine were crusty AF

Fuel Tank Strap Replacement Tutorial (60+ Pictures)

Part Cost: $50-75
Time: 1-2 days



These aren't really critical for your vehicle to run/be safe, definitely not needed. Stock skids do provide minimal protection against road debris and such, so they are helpful in some regards. Off road skid plates of course provide more protection

The cheapest one I can think of its the LFD Offroad skid for $180 + $50 shipping (or pickup in NC)

Time to to straight replace: 1hr
If broken bolts: 1-2 days

On the broken bolts note, I would not bother with screw extractors or drill and retap. This is what I did and wasted a lot of time. The retapped holes eventually loosened up some pieces of broken bolt and the new hole isn't perfectly in the center, so they don't hole. Either weld a washer then a nut onto the bolt stump or drill out completely and rivnut




This one I would also look into taking to a professional to get it taken care of right. As mentioned, they'll cut all the rusty section out, then weld in good metal.

You can change these straps without dropping the tank? Sweet.

I’ve done a lot of gas tanks. Only other one that I could do without dropping the tank was maybe my 87’ XJ. Both of my full size Chevy’s the whole tank had to come down and it was still a pain.

 

[Toystory2]

My wife has a 2007 4 runner from Colorado. I completely replaced the suspension and everything was rusted to the max. I PB Blasted all the nuts for 2 weeks just about every day for two weeks and it was still a *****.

I ended up using a saws all to just cut the top nut off of all 4 shocks - which did not take long at all. I fought with them for days before hand.

Look for the video on how to use a jack vs. a spring compressor. I had to redo the front shock as aI found a washer on the floor. The second time around I took everything apart and ack together again unless than 20 minutes

I about to start PB blasting every nut on there. Prepared to buy a sawsall as well. Is it just a matter to sawing off the nut and tapping the bolt out?


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[Toystory2]

Loosen the front cam bolts on the LCA by the bolt head, not the “nut.” I had to cut my rear bolts off as well as the LCA arm itself.

Man, trans lines are usually one bolt on the trans and just disconnect up front. Super easy. Like I said, working them up front is tricky.

Honestly the trans lines did look easy. I just didn’t have the time to get to it because it’s my DD. All the other stuff isn’t pressing so hopefully I can get to most of it.


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[Toystory2]

With these prices, I'm going to side with they're probably gouging you and most of the services probably not needed. For example, at 210-230k miles, all of my ball joints, bushings, and all suspension was in worn but still decent condition and passed inspection without issue. I only started replacing stuff when my cam bolts seized and that snowballed into suspension stuff for offroading. But for regular road use, everything was fine.



I've got a writeup on rebuilding the LCAs if you take that route, but it is a decent amount of work. The writeup covers everything from removal of arms by sawzall and all parts/tools needed, so applicable to the straight LCA replacement option too

Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushing Tutorial (120+ Pictures)

I'm working on writeup for suspension and UCA install, not sure ETA on that, but I already have lots of pictures and info from my replacement

These are price guestimates off the top of my head for just part costs if you want to purchase yourself. Don't hold me to these, just throwing them out to give you an idea of part costs:

LCAs
OEM (McGeorge Online usually best prices, but shop around): $700-900
SuperPro Poly bushing LCA: $670
1A Auto (Cheapies to get by): $200
Time: 0.5-1 day to replace at home

Alignment HW
OEM: $150
MOOG: $50 maybe (These are trash though, get OEM)
Time: Included with LCA time

UCAs:
OEM: Not sure, but I'll look
JBA Factory Replacement or High Caster (For lifted): $450ish
SPC Adjustable (helpful for custom alignment after lift and larger tires): $630
Apache Offroad (For lifted): $550
5th gen takeoffs (lot of 5th gen guys take them off with low mileage and lift right away): $50-100
Time: 0.5-1 day to replace at home

Suspension:
KYB (Stock Replacement): $300ish I think
Dobinsons (Lift or I believe there are some stock replacement): $800-1000
5th gen takeoffs (lot of 5th gen guys take them off with low mileage and lift right away): $100-200
Time: 2-3 days. For me I needed to replace flex brake lines for longer rear shocks which snowballed into replacing hard lines all the way back so it took 4 days

Alignement
Firestone Lifetime: $200





This one I would recommend taking to a shop if you're still learning car mechanics. I'd even check with the dealer on their pricing, since $1000 is a lot of cash, even a stealership might be cheaper. Also look for an independent Toyota/Lexus mechanic and get their opinion


This job isn't too terrible, don't even need to drop the tank. I disagree with the other commenter, don't do the fuel pump. You are not halfway to its replacement with just the straps. Heavily apply penetrating fluid (I like 50/50 acetone/ATF) to all the bolts and use an impact. I didn't break any and mine were crusty AF

Fuel Tank Strap Replacement Tutorial (60+ Pictures)

Part Cost: $50-75
Time: 1-2 days



These aren't really critical for your vehicle to run/be safe, definitely not needed. Stock skids do provide minimal protection against road debris and such, so they are helpful in some regards. Off road skid plates of course provide more protection

The cheapest one I can think of its the LFD Offroad skid for $180 + $50 shipping (or pickup in NC)

Time to to straight replace: 1hr
If broken bolts: 1-2 days

On the broken bolts note, I would not bother with screw extractors or drill and retap. This is what I did and wasted a lot of time. The retapped holes eventually loosened up some pieces of broken bolt and the new hole isn't perfectly in the center, so they don't hole. Either weld a washer then a nut onto the bolt stump or drill out completely and rivnut




This one I would also look into taking to a professional to get it taken care of right. As mentioned, they'll cut all the rusty section out, then weld in good metal.

Thanks for taking the time to write up a very helpful reply. I think I can do the non urgent stuff. May be posting a lot here along the way LoL

I really appreciate the links and info


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Toystory2]

yeah that rust hole will need patched by cutting out the area until its solid metal then welding in a new piece.. but i still dont see $1000 worth or time/materials there. a few hours at $100/hr shop rate & 20 bucks worth of metal is all that should be required based on that pic... but ya never know how far they have to cut out until solid metal. again, check with some other shops, or shops more geared towards frame/suspension repair or off roading/trucks.

the A arms might need new bushings &/or ball joints if they are whats causing the squeaks/clunk but new bushings are very cheap & not difficult to replace by a shop with a press. most just buy new loaded arms from reputable aftermarket companies like moog, then its just unbolt & replace, cant see how either option would cost anywhere near $3800, even half that seems outrageous for the work thats required for that job. should be able to just call a few other shops & ask for a quote to replace the bushings & bj's or the entire arm & ask if you can bring in your own parts, so just ask for the labor rate, then buy loaded arms from napa or rock auto etc or just the bushings & bj's.

just an FYI, i have an 08 sport with 151k miles & the A-arms, baljoints/bushings are fine, just had it aligned after i replaced front & rear shocks with KYBs, cam bolts werent stuck & everything else has another 50-100k miles on it easily. i did have a clunk over bigger bumps or pot holes etc & it was the front sway bar bushings causing it... & worn out shocks. this is on a midwestern 4runner that sees lots of winter road salt etc.

best of luck getting the work done for better more fair prices. & the shops good reputation or not, those are rip off prices based on the labor time & cost of parts. if you have some time, youtube has all kinds of vids showing this work, the shocks & arms are really not difficult & no special tools are needed aside from a torque wrench for final tightening & maybe a bigger metric socket than the average guy might have.

Yea I agree, I mean I know everything is expensive these days but that seemed a bit much. I think it’s a good idea to check bushings first. Maybe I can at least buy some time.


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[y=mx+b]

You can change these straps without dropping the tank? Sweet.

I’ve done a lot of gas tanks. Only other one that I could do without dropping the tank was maybe my 87’ XJ. Both of my full size Chevy’s the whole tank had to come down and it was still a pain.

Yeah I can see if the whole tank had to come out, then almost to the fuel pump. I did it with the tank in place. I just supported it by running ratchet straps between the skid and tank to act as temporary straps. Tank was sitting on skid in the back, but was able to find path to push strap through, just have to try several directions with the loose/non-hook end of the strap. Then dropped the skid and replaced the straps with tank in place

 

[Flesh Eater]

Yeah I can see if the whole tank had to come out, then almost to the fuel pump. I did it with the tank in place. I just supported it by running ratchet straps between the skid and tank to act as temporary straps. Tank was sitting on skid in the back, but was able to find path to push strap through, just have to try several directions with the loose/non-hook end of the strap. Then dropped the skid and replaced the straps with tank in place

Sweet. Good to know.


BUT...the OP did say he got this from Ohio. One known issue in this rust belt is the metal lines on top of the fuel pump rusting through. Could he worth checking. At least try to wiggle an arm up in there with a phone and camera running to check them.

 

[Toystory2]

Sweet. Good to know.


BUT...the OP did say he got this from Ohio. One known issue in this rust belt is the metal lines on top of the fuel pump rusting through. Could he worth checking. At least try to wiggle an arm up in there with a phone and camera running to check them.

I can get a decent look at the top of the fuel tank. I will double check this.

 

[Toystory2]

These really need replaced? Let's see some pics.


You can do shocks/struts yourself. The trans lines not sure but can't be that hard. Rusted bolts are probably the only hard part. You want to do whatever you can to avoid snapping bolts.


Hit the bolts with penetrating lubricant multiple days in a row. Then get yourself a torch. I just went through a snapped skid bolt last weekend. PITA but got it done and retapped. Get anti-seize on the new bolts.


Yup, decide on the first project to tackle. Search the forums and youtube. Don't be afraid to ask for tips before starting something. Pictures of the rust severity on the particular project can be helpful to give the best advice. Sometimes the right tool or right strategy makes all the difference. No stupid questions possible. My favorite way to search is to put this into a google search box (ex. replace transmission lines):

site:4th Gen T4Rs - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum transmission lines

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Flesh Eater]

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If there is no play in that ball joint they look okay. Enough for a DD anyways.

Only other reason to replace them is if the inside bushings are worn and an alignment is off.

 

[bootown]

Hard to see the back half of the upper control arm but other than someone spraying something near the front bushing they seem to look fine. Not really even that rusty. Can't see much of the LCA but also probably fine. These just aren't parts that really need replaced. Bushings may wear out. I've never had to replace the UCA and LCA on a Toyota (or the bushings). I replaced the upper ball joints on a 300k Sequoia and realized after I had them popped free from the UCA, the UBJ's were almost as tight as the brand new ones I had ready to replace them with.

Do yourself a favor and don't ever let whatever shop quoted you all that stuff touch your car again.

 

[inscarguy]

My advise is go to a parts store and get a needle grease fitting for the end of the grease gun. Poke a hole in each rubber boot and put some grease in each ball joint, tie rod etc. It will make a huge difference.

The fittings are between $3-5.00.

This is what it looks like:

Google Image Result