Jaw-dropping repair estimates

[y=mx+b]

After watching some videos and reading some write ups, I think I can do this. Can’t you buy arms with ball joints that just bolt on? Maybe I am not understanding what press means.

What I did was rebuild my old arms by pressing out the ball joints and bushings, then pressing in new ones. That was the reason for the ball joint press.

Yep you can buy complete arms and just cut the old ones out, toss em, and reinstall brand new. The cheapest are 1A auto and are surprisingly alright from what I've heard, but I wouldn't expect bushings to last as long

OEM are pretty expensive at around $700-800 for the set iirc. Call McGeorge Toyota and ask about latest pricing

SuperPro are another option at around $670 and they have poly bushings as well as an option for offset bushings. Check Apache Offroad for these guys

 

[Toystory2]

What I did was rebuild my old arms by pressing out the ball joints and bushings, then pressing in new ones. That was the reason for the ball joint press.

Yep you can buy complete arms and just cut the old ones out, toss em, and reinstall brand new. The cheapest are 1A auto and are surprisingly alright from what I've heard, but I wouldn't expect bushings to last as long

OEM are pretty expensive at around $700-800 for the set iirc. Call McGeorge Toyota and ask about latest pricing

SuperPro are another option at around $670 and they have poly bushings as well as an option for offset bushings. Check Apache Offroad for these guys

The 1A auto arms are the exact ones I am getting. Can’t beat that price. I think $300 for upper and lower. Plus good reviews from what I’ve seen.

I need to do shocks as well. I am guessing this would be the ideal time to do those too while I’m replacing the arms. Can’t see an advantage of not doing them at the same time. Thoughts?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Toystory2]

And to answer your question, yes you can get completely assembled arms that you just install.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Awesome, I’ve never done arms before so I wasn’t 100 percent sure.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[firebirdguy]

yes shocks at the same time is the best time to do it to limit more work for yourself. hope you can find the KYBs, they should be available somewhere if rock auto is out at the moment.

another option that may not have been mentioned is finding low mile used pull offs from 5th gens, the fronts fit without modification but ive read the rears need a small bushing modification.

 

[Toystory2]

yes shocks at the same time is the best time to do it to limit more work for yourself. hope you can find the KYBs, they should be available somewhere if rock auto is out at the moment.

another option that may not have been mentioned is finding low mile used pull offs from 5th gens, the fronts fit without modification but ive read the rears need a small bushing modification.

Yea that makes sense, especially if you're replacing the LCA. Rock Auto doesn't have hardly any front shocks for the 4th gen right now.

 

[4r-4ever]

i did the following:

Lower Control Arms, Shocks/Struts, and alignment: -> removing it was such a pain. all too rusted too. i ended up removing the rust and repainting it. definitely need a new control arm since you'll need to cut it to remove it. i would suggest doing this yourself so you can clean it up and repaint to avoid further rusting.

Replace rusted trans cooler lines: --> i just bought the parts and replaced it myself. not too difficult

New fuel tank straps: --> i have a broken strap too and the tank is still held by the tank skid plate

New skid plates: --> i still have my old one, starting to crumble but it still works.

Rusted frame repair: --> i'll have to take it to a frame repair shop to have it looked at. my biggest issue is the rear upper control arm part where it's connected to the frame and the differential. it has holes in it and i'm afraid a sudden emergency brake would snap it. this is my priority now.

Not 3 weeks after buying a 2007 SR5, I have taken it to a mechanic to have some repairs estimated.

This is what they quoted me:

Upper and Lower Control Arms, Shocks/Struts, and alignment: $3,800

Replace rusted trans cooler lines: $1,000

New fuel tank straps: $600

New skid plates: $400 each

Rusted frame repair At least $1,000

I am somewhat mechanically inclined, is it reasonable that I can do any of this myself?

I cannot afford these repairs, unless the dealer does the right thing and makes this right.

 

[Toystory2]

i did the following:

Lower Control Arms, Shocks/Struts, and alignment: -> removing it was such a pain. all too rusted too. i ended up removing the rust and repainting it. definitely need a new control arm since you'll need to cut it to remove it. i would suggest doing this yourself so you can clean it up and repaint to avoid further rusting.

Replace rusted trans cooler lines: --> i just bought the parts and replaced it myself. not too difficult

New fuel tank straps: --> i have a broken strap too and the tank is still held by the tank skid plate

New skid plates: --> i still have my old one, starting to crumble but it still works.

Rusted frame repair: --> i'll have to take it to a frame repair shop to have it looked at. my biggest issue is the rear upper control arm part where it's connected to the frame and the differential. it has holes in it and i'm afraid a sudden emergency brake would snap it. this is my priority now.

Sounds like we are in the same boat. I was able to do the fuel tank straps myself, pretty easy. Just ordered new upper and lower control arms, and hope to do that on Saturday, Lord willing.

I am honestly preparing for it to be a difficult job and will buy a sawzall if necessary. But that is a good point to clean up the rust while I’m at it.

I went ahead and had a mechanic do the trans cooler lines. It cost me $1,000 but I needed it fixed immediately as they were leaking.

I hope you’re able to get that rusty arm taken care of without too much trouble!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[4r-4ever]

i actually did all that during the height of covid, a year or 2 ago. so during that time, i don't use it much so i had to work on it after work hours taking my time. i learned my lesson. i thought of saving the arm but removing the arm was the most difficult part. i had to cut it to save time so i can start removing the rust and repainting it. take your time on this so that the rust will not comeback quickly. any mating surfaces, use an antiseize. most of all, please secure the truck with a jack stand and double secure it, just in case. i was under the truck with only 2 jackstands and the tires underneath it and a little more support. if during that time you are working underneath and some earthquake happens, you know what the outcome will be. be safe and enjoy after you are all done. it's worth it in my opinion.

Sounds like we are in the same boat. I was able to do the fuel tank straps myself, pretty easy. Just ordered new upper and lower control arms, and hope to do that on Saturday, Lord willing.

I am honestly preparing for it to be a difficult job and will buy a sawzall if necessary. But that is a good point to clean up the rust while I’m at it.

I went ahead and had a mechanic do the trans cooler lines. It cost me $1,000 but I needed it fixed immediately as they were leaking.

I hope you’re able to get that rusty arm taken care of without too much trouble!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Toystory2]

i actually did all that during the height of covid, a year or 2 ago. so during that time, i don't use it much so i had to work on it after work hours taking my time. i learned my lesson. i thought of saving the arm but removing the arm was the most difficult part. i had to cut it to save time so i can start removing the rust and repainting it. take your time on this so that the rust will not comeback quickly. any mating surfaces, use an antiseize. most of all, please secure the truck with a jack stand and double secure it, just in case. i was under the truck with only 2 jackstands and the tires underneath it and a little more support. if during that time you are working underneath and some earthquake happens, you know what the outcome will be. be safe and enjoy after you are all done. it's worth it in my opinion.

Thanks! Did you have to cut the cam bolt off? Also what did you use to clean up the rust?

 

[AuSeeker]

Thanks! Did you have to cut the cam bolt off? Also what did you use to clean up the rust?

I would plan on cutting the cam bolts and go ahead and buy the sawzall and blades just to have them and not have to run out and buy them in the middle of the job, I hate it if I have to stop and go on the hunt for tools in the middle of doing the work, if you end up not needing to cut the bolts you can return them and get your money back!

 

[Toystory2]

I would plan on cutting the cam bolts and go ahead and buy the sawzall and blades just to have them and not have to run out and buy them in the middle of the job, I hate it if I have to stop and go on the hunt for tools in the middle of doing the work, if you end up not needing to cut the bolts you can return them and get your money back!

Thanks [MENTION=149207]AuSeeker[/MENTION] I’ll put that on my list.

For the new cam bolts going with SPC.

Is this all I would need?

https://www.autozone.com/suspension...gnment-alignment-camber-bolt-25435/600771_0_0


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[AuSeeker]

Thanks [MENTION=149207]AuSeeker[/MENTION] I’ll put that on my list.

For the new cam bolts going with SPC.

Is this all I would need?

https://www.autozone.com/suspension...gnment-alignment-camber-bolt-25435/600771_0_0


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would think that 2 sets of those will be what you need to do both sides.

That being said I haven't needed to replace my cam bolts...at least not yet, so others who have replaced their hopefully will confirm if you need anything else.

My advice on going ahead and buy the sawzall and blades comes from well over 50 years of doing mechanical work.

 

[caeavesrsx-s]

Apex Toyota had the front OEM Lower Control arms for $656.22 picked up.

Freedom Offroad has cheaper upper control arms that look to be rebranded Hardrace items. Hardrace has always been good to me.

SPC cam kits are cheap insurance. Buying them is a good way to not need them. I only had one frozen bolt. Same thing with the sway bar endlinks.

Rock Auto and Amazon are your friend.

You already mentioned carbide sawzall blades.

You could let Apex Overland quote you some prices for the work as well.