JayRolla's Build Thread! Pics!

[JayRolla]

This is the first upgrade ill be doing after my deployment, i have put it off long enough and now i need front brakes. Did you run into any snags or anything unexpected? What are "the expensive shims"? Any thoughts on the quality of the napa calipers, i see everything else is OEM($), nice job man.

No snags really, just the normal rotor rusted on, but a little heat from a blow torch and a sledge finally got it off. Just had to cut a little on the heat shield, paint to to stop rust and they bolted right up.

When I said expensive, I should have just said I went with the NON chamfered OEM pads which you have to buy the shims separately, about $90 for both. Which give you a lot more brake pad surface than the OEM kits you can find for around $40-$50.

I really only run OEM parts when I can, on every vehicle I have ever owned. Ive had my fair share of "Lifetime Warranty" reman junk from parts stores that fail over and over, but I couldnt see myself paying near $400 per caliper. I didnt want to go junkyard because I wanted everything new and I have had issues in past of used calipers that are stuck and dont function correctly.

The napas seem to very good quality, they are rebuilt originals so casting looked good. I guess I will find out how they hold up in the next 20k miles.

I broke them in doing the bed in procedure (which ive done on all new pads I install on any vehicle). I have installed larger dual piston calipers on my talon, eclipse's back in the day and I can almost say my 4runner stops better than my little cars with aftermarket brakes. The truck stops so hard it feels like im going to do a rear tire wheelie!!!

I also purchased one of these, just waiting for them to let me know when to pick it up!!!! Im so excited!!!

 

[JBurt]

Those new AOR plate bumpers keep looking better and better.

 

[NateMob]

No snags really, just the normal rotor rusted on, but a little heat from a blow torch and a sledge finally got it off. Just had to cut a little on the heat shield, paint to to stop rust and they bolted right up.

When I said expensive, I should have just said I went with the NON chamfered OEM pads which you have to buy the shims separately, about $90 for both. Which give you a lot more brake pad surface than the OEM kits you can find for around $40-$50.

I really only run OEM parts when I can, on every vehicle I have ever owned. Ive had my fair share of "Lifetime Warranty" reman junk from parts stores that fail over and over, but I couldnt see myself paying near $400 per caliper. I didnt want to go junkyard because I wanted everything new and I have had issues in past of used calipers that are stuck and dont function correctly.

The napas seem to very good quality, they are rebuilt originals so casting looked good. I guess I will find out how they hold up in the next 20k miles.

I broke them in doing the bed in procedure (which ive done on all new pads I install on any vehicle). I have installed larger dual piston calipers on my talon, eclipse's back in the day and I can almost say my 4runner stops better than my little cars with aftermarket brakes. The truck stops so hard it feels like im going to do a rear tire wheelie!!!

I also purchased one of these, just waiting for them to let me know when to pick it up!!!! Im so excited!!!

Those new AOR plate bumpers keep looking better and better.

I like mine, the clearance on it is insane. The only possible way to have more clearance would be to run no bumper at all. My first one had a couple issues but Scott and AOR are making it right. Should have my second one back from powdercoat this week.

 

[JayRolla]

I like mine, the clearance on it is insane. The only possible way to have more clearance would be to run no bumper at all. My first one had a couple issues but Scott and AOR are making it right. Should have my second one back from powdercoat this week.

Nice, I love how it looks on your truck.

If you dont mind asking how much did the coating run? Also did you do anything special for under primer or anything to stop rust? My issue with PC is everyone Ive seen coated after time you chip it and it starts to rust because it chips to bare metal. Ive heard they have primer that they can do at extra cost to help this. And you can spray over the chip to protect but dont blend as good.

Im going to do a 2 coat etching primer which bonds to the steal, then 2 coat auto primer, and 3 coat auto paint. All from a can, I hope it lasts. Did this to my wheels and it works great, do a repaint once a year and they hold up so far.

 

[NateMob]

Nice, I love how it looks on your truck.

If you dont mind asking how much did the coating run? Also did you do anything special for under primer or anything to stop rust? My issue with PC is everyone Ive seen coated after time you chip it and it starts to rust because it chips to bare metal. Ive heard they have primer that they can do at extra cost to help this. And you can spray over the chip to protect but dont blend as good.

Im going to do a 2 coat etching primer which bonds to the steal, then 2 coat auto primer, and 3 coat auto paint. All from a can, I hope it lasts. Did this to my wheels and it works great, do a repaint once a year and they hold up so far.

PM sent regarding prices.

I didnt do any sort of primer or 2 stage PC on the front bumper. The issue you have with PC is the same issue i have with paint. And a good PC job is much more durable than most any paint job that comes out of an aerosol can. I personally cannot stand spray painting, so it was worth the price i paid to have the coating done and not have to let it set up in my garage for a week while everything cured properly. My CBI and AOR bumpers were powdercoated and still look great, except where i drug them across rocks. Rustoleum makes a dark silver and a black that matches very close and blends well. My skids and sliders are just painted because i knew they would get beat up and repainted frequently. But for bumpers, where any touchups would likely be down low or on the bottom im not as worried about hitting it with some spray paint to keep rust at bay. And the top and sides are visible and look professionally finished.

If i were more patient and had the time i could probably get better results from painting. Just not in my wheelhouse. :fro:

 

[JayRolla]

PM sent regarding prices.

I didnt do any sort of primer or 2 stage PC on the front bumper. The issue you have with PC is the same issue i have with paint. And a good PC job is much more durable than most any paint job that comes out of an aerosol can. I personally cannot stand spray painting, so it was worth the price i paid to have the coating done and not have to let it set up in my garage for a week while everything cured properly. My CBI and AOR bumpers were powdercoated and still look great, except where i drug them across rocks. Rustoleum makes a dark silver and a black that matches very close and blends well. My skids and sliders are just painted because i knew they would get beat up and repainted frequently. But for bumpers, where any touchups would likely be down low or on the bottom im not as worried about hitting it with some spray paint to keep rust at bay. And the top and sides are visible and look professionally finished.

If i were more patient and had the time i could probably get better results from painting. Just not in my wheelhouse. :fro:

Thanks for the info. It is true most touchups will be low. I will have to think it through. I usually dont have the patience and all my paint jobs never lasted. So when I did my rims I went all out. I painted, sanded, prepped and cleaned between every single coat, took entire weekend for just my rims. But it was worth it and holding up llike crazy. I might try the paint thing and if it dont work out off the the PC I will go.

 

[USMC0351]

How are the Tread Wrights holding up? I've been eyeing them for quite awhile for when I get a set of new tires eventually, just curious as to how yours are performing and wearing.

 

[JayRolla]

How are the Tread Wrights holding up? I've been eyeing them for quite awhile for when I get a set of new tires eventually, just curious as to how yours are performing and wearing.

The muds wear down like any other mud. They say they are tougher material, which I do believe but with the type of tread its just normal. I got about 3 years on the last set and at 2 years now and have a good year left most likely. Not sure on mileage.

My wife has the BFG style A/T treadwrights on her expedition and they are about 2 years old now and look brand new!! They are the E load so are rough and have about 60psi per tire but man they have not worn at all!

Offroad the muds are awesome. Do great in all different terrains. I have dropped them to pretty much no air pressure and always stay on the bead.

I have ran three sets now and will never run another tire. And I have ran them all!

 

[USMC0351]

The muds wear down like any other mud. They say they are tougher material, which I do believe but with the type of tread its just normal. I got about 3 years on the last set and at 2 years now and have a good year left most likely. Not sure on mileage.

My wife has the BFG style A/T treadwrights on her expedition and they are about 2 years old now and look brand new!! They are the E load so are rough and have about 60psi per tire but man they have not worn at all!

Offroad the muds are awesome. Do great in all different terrains. I have dropped them to pretty much no air pressure and always stay on the bead.

I have ran three sets now and will never run another tire. And I have ran them all!

Awesome, I've yet to hear any negative reviews of them. Just more reason to get a set when my Wrangler ATs wear out which probably will be in less than a year. Thanks

 

[JayRolla]

Awesome, I've yet to hear any negative reviews of them. Just more reason to get a set when my Wrangler ATs wear out which probably will be in less than a year. Thanks

The only negative you will hear is people saying they are retreads. But in recent studys they say that they can be more reliable because of how many times they are inspected. You see really good tire deals because they are overstock. Som overstock tires can have dry rot which can cause failure. If in problem is found with the tire casing at treadwright its not used.

Another issue is them being backordered. Only so many tires they can retread and they use mainly stock tires off new vehicles. So more tires in stock are the larger rims since newer trucks all have 17" or larger tires. And the large tires are always on long back order like 35" and above.

 

[USMC0351]

The only negative you will hear is people saying they are retreads. But in recent studys they say that they can be more reliable because of how many times they are inspected. You see really good tire deals because they are overstock. Som overstock tires can have dry rot which can cause failure. If in problem is found with the tire casing at treadwright its not used.

Another issue is them being backordered. Only so many tires they can retread and they use mainly stock tires off new vehicles. So more tires in stock are the larger rims since newer trucks all have 17" or larger tires. And the large tires are always on long back order like 35" and above.

Yeah, I'm not worried with them being retreads. Semi's mainly run retreads and if the process is good enough to carry 80k pounds for 250k miles or more, I think it'll work for a midsize SUV. I worked at a Michelin plant for awhile before, so I'm familiar with the overstock and dry rot (it's actually delamination from the rubber aging, dry rot is a misnomer because nothing rots because of dryness, moisture is required for actual rotting). I've heard people compare the tread wear to BFG KM2s, and I've had some of those on another vehicle. They wore evenly and for a mud tire, lasted very well. If the tread Wrights are about the same, it's definitely what I'm going for, my KM2s were over $1300 in 2009, for 285/75-16, as compared to about $700 for a set of the TWs.

 

[JayRolla]

Yeah, I'm not worried with them being retreads. Semi's mainly run retreads and if the process is good enough to carry 80k pounds for 250k miles or more, I think it'll work for a midsize SUV. I worked at a Michelin plant for awhile before, so I'm familiar with the overstock and dry rot (it's actually delamination from the rubber aging, dry rot is a misnomer because nothing rots because of dryness, moisture is required for actual rotting). I've heard people compare the tread wear to BFG KM2s, and I've had some of those on another vehicle. They wore evenly and for a mud tire, lasted very well. If the tread Wrights are about the same, it's definitely what I'm going for, my KM2s were over $1300 in 2009, for 285/75-16, as compared to about $700 for a set of the TWs.

Yea I paid $1k for the same smaller km2's. I will never do that again, LOL. And you right its rubber ageing not "dry rot" but its what its known as mainly around everywhere. Im sure you will like them. Mine all balanced really good, some others stated they dont balance the best. My new set was also the bead to bead which I like a lot.

 

[JBurt]

I'll second that. I've got the guard dog's as well. I've had the ones on the back for 2.5 years and they look great. I've had some alignment issues that made me replace the fronts, but other than that no complaints. All we really have down here are rocks and sand and they do well.

 

[JayRolla]

Just updating the thread a little. Swapped out my old 230k mileage stock radiator. Had developed a little crack on the top end tank, luckily not near the transmission cooler. Thought it was time to swap it out, been waiting too long on it. Will most likely do the trans cooler bypass here soon just to be safe. Still waiting on my AOR plate bumper, they are really busy but its really going to finally make my truck look nasty. Also gave her a little wash, surprised she gets so clean for how old and beat up she really is. Also added a few more shots to the first thread since she is all pretty. LOL

 

[JayRolla]

Just a quick update or more of maybe a long rant on my truck. I had a LBJ fail about a year ago so decided to fix up the front end.

I replaced LBJ's, UBJ's, OTRE, rack and pinion with installed ITRE's. I also installed new ome suspension at that time along with 33" tires. When I first drove it, it was very loose, floaty, I thought maybe its the big tires. Had it aligned and the shop said everything looked fine. But it just felt loose.

I have got all the air out of the lines, I verified the power steering pump is good, no shavings in the fluid. I was thinking the rack is bad but after inspecting tonight I think the NEW rack and pinion from Toyotasteering.com had bad ITRE's from the beginning. They are super loose and toyotasteering wont answer my calls or emails for the last month. Im getting very mad with them.

Tomorrow Im going to install my old racks OEM ITRE's with 200k miles and see if it helps because they feel solid.

The main reason for the this rant is if you are thinking Toyotasteering.com for a new rack and pinion then maybe think again.

 

[JayRolla]

Drove 5 hours round trip yesterday to pick this badboy up!!! Thanks Scott!

Started to paint her, this paint shots are after two quick base coats of Krylon Satin black paint/primer in one.

 

[TCMach]

Drove 5 hours round trip yesterday to pick this badboy up!!! Thanks Scott!

5 hours! Takes me 5 minutes :biggrin1:.

Cant wait to see it on your truck! You ever figure out the steering problems you were having?

 

[JayRolla]

5 hours! Takes me 5 minutes :biggrin1:.

Cant wait to see it on your truck! You ever figure out the steering problems you were having?

Yes I did, it was the damn inner tie rod ends that where brand new. Thing was loose since install. I cant believe the alignment shop didnt say anything. Installed my 200k mile ITRE's and it solid as a rock.

 

[Atrox Caeda]

That is my favorite bumper right now... I gotta save up for it, cuz it looks better and better every time I see one.

 

[JayRolla]

That is my favorite bumper right now... I gotta save up for it, cuz it looks better and better every time I see one.

Just finished painting, will post up pic here in a bit. I love the look, the low profile, wont get hung up when trying to climb a rock like many other plates out there.