JBurt's 97 Build Thread

Update: Sears replaced the alignment bolt, sleeve, and nut. However they ordered the wrong parts 2 times and I didn't have my truck for over a week.

When I finally did get it back, the first thing I did in the parking lot was to see if they fixed what they said they were going to fix.

This is what I saw:

IMAG0215_zps7eyydj9k.jpg~original


So the bolt is new and the stop is completely flattened. The manager had already gone home so I emailed him and then called the next day.

So somehow I've got to figure out how to fix this. I'm thinking I could have someone weld some kind of stop to that. When I get a written quote and take it back to Sears they might pay for the work. Any ideas?
 
Well some good things should happen soon.

Sears is paying for the work to fix the alignment tab. The shop said they could remove those alignment tabs, bend them, and weld it back on, but I think I'm going to go with these. I don't want to have to worry about this again. Should be able to get them in and welded on next week. Sears has a satisfaction guarantee on their alignment contract and I think after they fix everything I might get my money back. This has been way more of a headache than it should be. I haven't even mentioned the bad alignment started my tire feathering.

There are never any 3rd gens in the one yard we have here, but 700 miles away my uncle found a few and he is sending me some 2001 parts. Cupholder center console, auto up\down window switches, sunglass holder sunroof switches, passenger side grab handle to put on the drivers side, and I'm sure I'm forgetting something else.

I also ordered some allpro uca's. Should be here in less than 3 weeks.

When the shop welds on the alignment tabs they're also going to weld on my sliders.

I also got a mv-50 compressor to replace my cheapo $9 harbor freight one so I should be able to air up in about 15 minutes instead of 115.

Good stuff.

And since I know how we all like pictures I did see this at the local yard last friday

IMAG0280_zpsn9h9wayi.jpg~original


Bobbed bed, internal cage, dual cases, and beat to hell on the inside. There was also some really old winch on the front I didn't recognize. I called my wife and she said no. Too bad.
 
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And I almost forgot. I got my rear lca's from [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION]. They are awesome. Easy install. My only regret is that I wish I had got the adjustables like Connor.

Here's the main reason for the new lca's
http://i806.photobucket.com/albums/yy349/jeffdb/IMAG0283_zpsaf8qlnwc.jpg

IMAG0286_zpst4ykyvwi.jpg~original


And the new compared to the old

IMAG0285_zpsj1ejxf2o.jpg~original


They ride very quiet and very smooth with the flex joints, and they should be beefy enough to take anything I can throw at them. Thumbs up for a fantastic product. Very worth it.

On a side note the ones I took off have a weird thing on one end that aren't on the other stock arms I've seen.
 
They ride very quiet and very smooth with the flex joints, and they should be beefy enough to take anything I can throw at them. Thumbs up for a fantastic product. Very worth it.

I can honestly say that it improved the ride on mine as well. I was expecting it to be inherently stronger. I was quite surprised when it actually drove a lot better as well.
 
So I got my cupholder console. All the interior parts were oak and I've got the moon mist interior. I've had good luck with SEM color coat and I took it apart and painted it. Here's how it came out.

IMAG0327_zpsium2qvjv.jpg~original


IMAG0324_zpsyvsqsqly.jpg~original


I don't think it has enough blue in it but we'll see how it looks when it's installed.

Alignment tabs and sliders get welded on later this week.
 
Dude if it was that color I was gonna piss myself that thing is bad a**

I thought about it real hard. My brother has a fj60 that color that he still wont sell me... thats why I had one of the guys photoshop it when I was deciding what color to paint it haha
 
I think it does look pretty good. You should post a pic of the fj60.

Sliders get welded on tomorrow.
 
Well I haven't gotten any kind of shipping confirmation on my new uca's. Supposedly they are all supposed to be delivered by the end of this week. I hope they are so I can install them on my week off next week.

In other news I needed a new battery. I could have sworn that my Duralast gold 24F-DLG was less than 3 years old so I was in for a free replacement. When I checked my records I found It was installed in February of 2010, so just slightly out of warranty, time flies. I would get a huge $12.50 credit at autozone for it, so that wasn't a huge consideration on the new battery.

I did a lot of research and since most of the time I am by myself out in the desert I don't mind spending money to get a good battery since jump starts in the middle of nowhere are few and far between.

I wanted a sealed battery so either gel or AGM. I narrowed it down to the Duralast Platinum 34R AGM, the Diehard Platinum P-1 AGM deep cycle, or the Diehard Advanced Gold 34R AGM.

The duralast and the advanced gold were about the same pricepoint, with the Platinum about $50 more. Then I decided I didn't want rewire things for the Platinum (terminals reversed from where they need to be.) Several people had good things to say about the Duralast, but I had a credit at Sears, so I went with the Diehard.

spin_prod_601732701


It uses a spacer to bring it up to the height needed for the battery hold down, and it is still about 1/8" short on the front side, but I can add an additional spacer very easy. It has 775 cold cranking amps and 120 minutes of reserve capacitiy. The duralast has the same reserve capacity and 25 less CCA.

I haven't seen any 4runner specific reviews, but I didn't find anything bad about them, so I'll update this after a while but for right now the car starts up much faster. Also my doors all lock now, which is a plus.

I'll post better pictures tomorrow when I get some daylight.

Also I am very pleased with the Savage sliders.

I am trying to decide if I want to get the allpro apex bumper with the special right now, or get a Springfield 1911 and get the addicted plate bumper later. Decisions.... Any input is welcome.
 
Don't you have to get the All-Pro specific skid, as in that bumper won't work with stock or typical aftermarket skids? PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong on that....no way am I giving up my skids!!!
LOVE the look of Addicted's hybrid bumper, sure wish I had that kind of spare coin. That said, I don't know what mods are needed or if there's skid issues with his bumper either.
That ^ was all the spare coins (2cents!) I've got for now.

My almost 9 year old Optima red-top was doornailed this moring- it got near record cold last night. It's been laboring these past cold mornings so it wasn't a surprise. No worries though, pushed a switch and started the truck up on the house battery. :D
 
From my understanding you would need the allpro specific skids, which wouldn't be a problem for me since I have no skids right now. Also I think you cut out the factory skid plate crossmember and just use the allpro bumper. Mstudt may have already gotten his on and he had regular aftermarket skids so hopefully he can clear this issue up.

Another plus is that the allpro bumper with skids would wind up about $500 cheaper than the addicted bumper with savage skids (my original plan.

How do you like the new BFG's? Have you gotten a chance to wheel with them?

I looked at the red top, autozone has an online 20% off deal right now, but I have heard too many mixed reviews about the new optima's, and nothing bad about the two AGM's I was looking at. We'll see. How has your fix of your dual battery tray held up?
 
From my understanding you would need the allpro specific skids, which wouldn't be a problem for me since I have no skids right now. Also I think you cut out the factory skid plate crossmember and just use the allpro bumper. Mstudt may have already gotten his on and he had regular aftermarket skids so hopefully he can clear this issue up.

Another plus is that the allpro bumper with skids would wind up about $500 cheaper than the addicted bumper with savage skids (my original plan).

I don't have the bumper on yet, and not sure when I actually will. Weather here is keeping me from getting it painted. Right now it's primed, but way to cold to get it painted. This might wait to go on until I get back in August.

The clear some things up though. You will need to cut off the the factory cross member, and remove 3" of the frame horns for the factory bumper. You'll need to weld a new plate on the front of the frame rail that'll allow you to bolt the new bumper on. There are also a couple more mounting location on each rail, and a couple holes that need to be drilled. The factory skids, and any aftermarket skid other than All-Pro won't work. It's a great deal for what you get. If I had the bumper about a week earlier I would already have it on.
 
From my understanding you would need the allpro specific skids, which wouldn't be a problem for me since I have no skids right now. Also I think you cut out the factory skid plate crossmember and just use the allpro bumper. Mstudt may have already gotten his on and he had regular aftermarket skids so hopefully he can clear this issue up.

Another plus is that the allpro bumper with skids would wind up about $500 cheaper than the addicted bumper with savage skids (my original plan.

How do you like the new BFG's? Have you gotten a chance to wheel with them?

I looked at the red top, autozone has an online 20% off deal right now, but I have heard too many mixed reviews about the new optima's, and nothing bad about the two AGM's I was looking at. We'll see. How has your fix of your dual battery tray held up?

All-pro's bumper looks pretty cool and the price is nice. If I didn't have skids already I would find it more intriguing and would look into just how much frame violation there'd be, how hard it would be to compensate for my 1" body lift and how well-proven the All-pro skids are. Addicted is super nice, but people here in the house are doing me no favors with couch change. :/

I've had the BFG KO2 for a week and a half so no wheeling yet. The ride on-road is much improved over the BFG A/Ts that I replaced. Waiting to see if mpg is better, worse or the same over the next several weeks. So far I am happier with these, time will tell. I will say mpgs with the BFGs are not nearly as nice as when I drove on the Michelin M/S, or even the Mich A/T2.

We recently put an Advance AGM in the 99 because of those redtop reviews but I'll be getting another Optima (thanks for the %off tip, it'll be that or Advance's 30%, whichever is more....affordable) because it kinda goes with that battery tray. :D
Speaking of, yep, the fix has held nicely through Utah, Colorado and here in MO. Should have built at least a top brace in the beginning. Ah, well, live, learn.
 
I don't have the bumper on yet, and not sure when I actually will. Weather here is keeping me from getting it painted. Right now it's primed, but way to cold to get it painted. This might wait to go on until I get back in August.

The clear some things up though. You will need to cut off the the factory cross member, and remove 3" of the frame horns for the factory bumper. You'll need to weld a new plate on the front of the frame rail that'll allow you to bolt the new bumper on. There are also a couple more mounting location on each rail, and a couple holes that need to be drilled. The factory skids, and any aftermarket skid other than All-Pro won't work. It's a great deal for what you get. If I had the bumper about a week earlier I would already have it on.

It's been stupid cold for November in MO, hasn't it? Thanks for the refresh on the info. Being the bumper's for the Taco I was wondering how far out from the sides it is. As in, would fit well with those who have flares, but too wide to look decent for those of us who have none or only the chrome trim?
 

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