JDM Crank Pulley Will Not Come Off! In Sac & Need Help

[fourfive]

A thicker walled heavier socket like the one I linked, that's specifically for a crank bolt, makes a difference (with an appropriately strong impact).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RGNCV1U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[gamefreakgc]

Can you lock the flywheel to the block with a couple bolts and a piece of metal\wrench? If so, you would be able to use a long breaker bar to get the crank bolt off.

I don't want to mess with the flywheel really, since they have a tendency to crack. Last thing I want to do is pull this engine down the road from warping/cracking the flywheel. There's not much to work with on an engine stand as well, since the engine holder covers most of the flywheel.

Is the engine on a stand or in the 4Runner?

Engine stand, it's the new JDM motor I got.

Sorry, you have a bolt holder problem. OK, I recommend the starter method. If no can do, there is a tractor trick you can use for that, too. Remove the plugs from cylinder one, and its rotational twin, #4. Rotate to 180° from TDC, Bottom Dead Center as it were. You can use a wooden dowel in the spark plug hole to find the wide open point.Fill both cylinders with a flexible rope, 3/8" cord is probably good. Get it nice and full and that crank will never turn past the point where it compresses the rope.

No can do on starter, Unless I put the engine in first... but it would cause a lot of extra work. When you say "soft rope", nothing plastic or anything that might score the cylinder walls? Any chance I could break a rod? This bolt is rusted on there something powerful. The engine got a a bit of salty air on the front of the engine, so the crank pulley is all rusted up. It's super hard to get any sort of grip on it.

 

[gamefreakgc]

If it's on a stand, here is another idea. Take your old accessory belt and cut it. Take the end and wrap around the pulley twice, and then knot the free end to a long pipe or bar about a foot from the end. Clove hitch would be best. Rotate crank bolt until bar is against pulley. That ought to hold it.

Much better than a chain wrench.

My wife had this idea. Any change I end up shattering the fan bracket? I don't know what sort of pressure it could withstand.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Gonna try renting a cordless impact, because it's only $14 but I don't have high hopes for it:

https://www.homedepot.com/tool-truck-rental/18V-Cordless-Drill/LXPH03/index.html

 

[Riceye]

Gonna try renting a cordless impact, because it's only $14 but I don't have high hopes for it:

https://www.homedepot.com/tool-truck-rental/18V-Cordless-Drill/LXPH03/index.html

Yeah, that Makita drill isn't going to cut it. I checked out Google and it looks like Aba Daba Rents has both corded and cordless 1/2" impacts for rent. You'll want an appropriately sized six point deep well impact (black) socket, as well. With an impact and a helper you probably won't even need to restrain the pulley other than holding it by hand.

Good luck!

 

[turbo8]

Gonna try renting a cordless impact, because it's only $14 but I don't have high hopes for it:

https://www.homedepot.com/tool-truck-rental/18V-Cordless-Drill/LXPH03/index.html

The link you posted is for a drill, I assume you meant to link the impact gun. The impact is rated at 1,460 in.lbs which is 121 ft.lbs.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I do have impact sockets and all that so this'll be a 30 minute experiment, that includes picking it up and dropping it off lol.

Yeah, I meant the driver. Looking too fast.

 

[Riceye]

Looking at the pictures at Aba Daba Rentals website, which may not be the actual tools they rent, the cordless Makita 1/2" has about 220 ft/lb and the corded DeWalt has about 375 ft/lb of torque. That's what you're going to need, at least.

 

[firemanj92]

I do have impact sockets and all that so this'll be a 30 minute experiment, that includes picking it up and dropping it off lol.

Yeah, I meant the driver. Looking too fast.

I'd let you borrow my Mac cordless impact, but I'm just out of reach of Citris Heights in East Bay. It's had no problem removing those bolts. I have since got rid of my air tools for cordless.

 

[TheDurk]

My wife had this idea. Any change I end up shattering the fan bracket? I don't know what sort of pressure it could withstand.

Huh? Fan bracket better be off or you are doing it wrong.

 

[TheDurk]

No can do on starter, Unless I put the engine in first... but it would cause a lot of extra work. When you say "soft rope", nothing plastic or anything that might score the cylinder walls? Any chance I could break a rod? This bolt is rusted on there something powerful. The engine got a a bit of salty air on the front of the engine, so the crank pulley is all rusted up. It's super hard to get any sort of grip on it.

I doubt you could break anything, but that is why I advised using two cylinders. If you think about it, a rod is the last thing you will break. The rope will compress maybe 50%, and then the crank will be pushing up along the long axis of the rod. It would take enormous pressure to break the rod that way. I bet the bolt shears or rounds off first. I can't imagine breaking the crank, either. Likewise the wrist pin. The piston is probably the weak point, but that is a pretty darn strong weak point. No guarantee, of course.

I don't think any rope will score a cylinder. It is more it needs to be pretty flexible to effectively fill the cylinder. A stiff hemp rope just won't bend enough.

I'd slap that bolt with a hammer a few times before I started. Another old tractor trick is to try tightening a millimeter or two and then go back to loosening. Has an amazing success rate.

 

[LittleCaesar]

A thicker walled heavier socket like the one I linked, that's specifically for a crank bolt, makes a difference (with an appropriately strong impact).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RGNCV1U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And a Metabo impact. But no doubt, this socket will help.

Quality tools would make this thread null and void.

 

[TheDurk]

And a Metabo impact. But no doubt, this socket will help.

Quality tools would make this thread null and void.

Good point.

I just enjoy tractor tricks.

 

[fourfive]

And a Metabo impact. But no doubt, this socket will help.

Quality tools would make this thread null and void.

Anyone considering a cordless impact should get this metabo. It's extremely compact and easily fits in the space to reach & unbolt the crank bolt as long as the radiator is removed. It puts out every bit of the 295 ft/lbs of torque it's rated at and has removed everything my larger 1100ft/lb cordless ingersoll rand impact has been able to unbolt. Easily my favorite tool I own and most used. I haven't even used my ingersoll since getting the metabo. I've said this before but you've recommended a lot of great tools that I ended up purchasing that have made any automotive I've done much easier but the metabo impact is definitely at the top.

 

[gamefreakgc]

And a Metabo impact. But no doubt, this socket will help.

Quality tools would make this thread null and void.

Tis true. Engine swap on a budget though. This crank pulley really caught me off guard though, I tried the OEM suggested tools and they don't fit at all. Every other trick on the forums I've seen doesn't work either.

 

[LittleCaesar]

I would love to see some pics of this monster when you have it off.

You just need some brute force here and to make sure the crank isn’t moving. I have learned that rarely does one need the monster tools but when one does, be glad they are there.

I think Home Depot has the 1/2” Milwaukee kit for $200 or so at the moment.

 

[thegipper]

I wouldn't overthink this. All you need is a more powerful impact if you don't want to do the starter bump method after the engine is in.

Call around and see if any places locally rent them or ask among your friends and see if someone has one (maybe a member on here?). If you weren't 2300 miles away from me, I'd be there this afternoon to blast that bolt off with my Milwaukee in about 4 seconds.

OR.....and I'm not saying you should do this but there is another option:

Go to home depot and buy the biggest 1/2" cordless impact (dewault/milwaukee whatever as long as its a beast). Go home and blast that crank bolt off. Put cordless impact back in case and return it.

Just a thought.....

 

[fourfive]

Tis true. Engine swap on a budget though. This crank pulley really caught me off guard though, I tried the OEM suggested tools and they don't fit at all. Every other trick on the forums I've seen doesn't work either.

It really sounds like you're gonna need one of the full sized 1000+ft/lb 1/2 impacts to get that bolt out. The quality brand impacts aren't cheap but will save you time and money in the long run making the initial cost worth it. I'd also really consider getting the crank bolt socket I linked earlier because it makes a difference.

 

[firemanj92]

I wouldn't overthink this. All you need is a more powerful impact if you don't want to do the starter bump method after the engine is in.

Call around and see if any places locally rent them or ask among your friends and see if someone has one (maybe a member on here?). If you weren't 2300 miles away from me, I'd be there this afternoon to blast that bolt off with my Milwaukee in about 4 seconds.

OR.....and I'm not saying you should do this but there is another option:

Go to home depot and buy the biggest 1/2" cordless impact (dewault/milwaukee whatever as long as its a beast). Go home and blast that crank bolt off. Put cordless impact back in case and return it.

Just a thought.....

I agree, you need a better impact wrench. If you want to borrow mine you are more than welcome. The closest I'll be to you is this weekend in Stockton for a few hours. Borrow it then get it back to me in that time frame.
The dewalt dcf899's Timmy and Sean have been using with great success. The dewalt/milwaukee Sacfasteners-Tool Outlet is right in Rancho Cordova of Power house inn-they are the cheapest around price wise.

https://fastenersinc.net/?fbclid=IwAR3J9daBTyBHeF5qs5clxTrowvnlQtvRhFklCtJkEChNRrkcdtTzirJ3x8s

 

[gamefreakgc]

It's off!!!

Chain wrench came in today so had a go with it. Tried a few different things:

1. Tried to take it off with a helper holding the 24" chain wrench and myself with the 5ft breaker bar. Physics and helpers arms ripping off said that's a no-go.

2. Propped the chain wrench on a solid surface and started with the 5ft'er again. Entire engine (500 lbs) plus engine stand (50 lbs) starts lifting into the air. Nope, that's not going to work either.

3. Third idea is to reverse sides and have the chain wrench come up to the bottom of the old engine, which I jump/push/whack the other side of it. Helper jumps on engine stand since it starts lifting off the ground. FINALLY it came loose!

A conservative estimate, based on the fact I was lifting the engine off the ground, was around 300-400 lbs torque to get the nut off. By far the hardest I've ever encountered.

Thanks all for the ideas and offers, I appreciate it. I was probably another 5 minutes away from buying some rope lol!

And here's why no tools would hold the pulley in place, the holes are smaller and are sunk in about 1" deeper than a USDM pulley:

P.S. it also took a massive 3-jaw puller to get the pulley to come off as well once the bolt was out.