JerkyDrewster's 2001 4Runner Build V2

March 17th, 2018

Push Start & CB Antenna Installation

Parts List:
- Advanced Keys Smart Entry & Push Start System
- MStudt's CB Antenna Mount
- Firestik 3' Antenna

Tools Used:
- Lots of electrical tools
- Electrical Wiring Diagram (Coud not have finished without this)

Last Sunday I decided to start on the daunting task of messing with a perfectly good ignition and security system and add my own! I began by reading up on the ignition and which wires I would be needed to splice into. After looking under the dash, I saw some discrepancies in the wire's colors. The one going into the ignition made its way back to a second connector that had wires that matched the EWD. After digging through the system some more, I'm guessing that the second harness was added with the RS3200+ Toyota security system.

Removing the ignition was pretty fun, and I didn't realize how large the entire thing was. Toyota decided to use the type of bolts that shear off after being torqued down. In order to do remove those bolts, I used a dremel to cut a slot so I could get a flathead on it. After that, it was pretty short work.

The push start was pretty easy to install, but I didn't pay attention to the state diagrams of the OEM ignition and the aftermarket module. Toyota wants power to IG1 and IG2 wires when the car is in the start position, but the module only provides power to IG1. This caused the car to crank, but not provide fuel to engine. To remedy this, I combined those wires and both from the push start to give power to the proper system during start. Once that was done, the car was able to start!

Next up was to install the smart key module. This system ties into the lock/unlock switch, door and brake switch, as well as others. Since this is the new security system of the car, I don't really want to go into too much detail...obviously.

After reinstalling some of the dash panels, I must have stressed out one of the crimps I used, causing the brake wire going into the junction block to be disconnected. I didn't notice this until today, but I had been driving around for 2 days like that...whoops! This caused other systems to not work as well, such as the shift lock, ABS, and VSC. I added an extension wire to prevent this from happening again, and soldered them together this time.

Everything is back together for the most part, but I do have a lingering issue that I haven't been able to solve yet. The new system has keyless entry, but whenever it unlocks or locks the doors, it cycles the car partially into the on position, turning on the dashcam and lights. These are tied into my aux system, which only turn on when the car is on, so it is a very weird problem. I emailed the company to see if they had any insight on this, but I will try and find the root cause in the meantime.

Besides that, the install went relatively well! It was definitely the toughest electrical challenge I have dealt with, but it was definitely a lot of fun.

I also received [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION]'s CB antenna bracket this week. I got it painted and mounted that as well. It looks great, and it is definitely more robust than my last one!

Time for some (but not all) of the photos! If you have questions regarding the push button install, send me a PM and I would be happy to answer them!

https://flic.kr/p/25cVkMj

https://flic.kr/p/23UAnyg

https://flic.kr/p/25cVjUs

https://flic.kr/p/23UApWT

https://flic.kr/p/H8USS5

https://flic.kr/p/25cVq95

Faulty wiring...
https://flic.kr/p/25cVnqE

https://flic.kr/p/23UAogP

https://flic.kr/p/25gytwe

https://flic.kr/p/25gyuAP
 
I always wanted to do a push button start. Did you relocate the cylinder so you can still start the truck if something happens to the button?
 
RockenAlex said:
I always wanted to do a push button start. Did you relocate the cylinder so you can still start the truck if something happens to the button?
Click to expand...

As of right now, I just have the cylinder on my workbench. I guess if the system decides to die, I will be SOL. I could keep the cylinder in the car and plug it into one of the connectors I kept stock in case something happens, but I hadn't thought of that.

So far I love having a push start. It is definitely convenient keeping the keys in my pocket. I think my fiancée's car spoiled me...
 
JerkyDrewster said:
Everything is back together for the most part, but I do have a lingering issue that I haven't been able to solve yet. The new system has keyless entry, but whenever it unlocks or locks the doors, it cycles the car partially into the on position, turning on the dashcam and lights. These are tied into my aux system, which only turn on when the car is on, so it is a very weird problem. I emailed the company to see if they had any insight on this, but I will try and find the root cause in the meantime.
Click to expand...

That's why I have a hard time messing with things like this, not because a push-start wouldn't be cool, but because I always end up having gremlins sneaking up later. Awesome tenacity though!
 
JerkyDrewster said:
So far I love having a push start. It is definitely convenient keeping the keys in my pocket. I think my fiancée's car spoiled me...
Click to expand...

this is awesome.

is there any specific prerequisite that I need to know about my specific 4runner before doing this? any security system(s) I need to look out for that may already be installed? anything that would cause install issues...?

and because I dont already have a key fob, I dont suppose I could add one to allow unlocking/locking/rear window roll down???
 
jbeebe said:
That's why I have a hard time messing with things like this, not because a push-start wouldn't be cool, but because I always end up having gremlins sneaking up later. Awesome tenacity though!
Click to expand...

They just make for fun challenges for me to deal with! I have an idea of what it is, but I need to test my theory out.

Lamer said:
this is awesome.

is there any specific prerequisite that I need to know about my specific 4runner before doing this? any security system(s) I need to look out for that may already be installed? anything that would cause install issues...?

and because I dont already have a key fob, I dont suppose I could add one to allow unlocking/locking/rear window roll down???
Click to expand...

I would say a pretty big pre-req is understanding how a car's electrical system works on a general level. You would also need the EWD because you can only get so far with resources like the12volt.com or similar. If you don't know/have that, then I would not try this. At least for mine, the security system module is underneath the dash, and I also have the light and chirper in one of the switch blanks. I kept the stock system in the disarmed state, so that should not cause any issue.

And you should definitely be able to add those to a key fob, since I tied the new system into all of those. You can always check to see if you had a key fob originally and just program a new one. That would be the easiest solution.
 
JerkyDrewster said:
And you should definitely be able to add those to a key fob, since I tied the new system into all of those. You can always check to see if you had a key fob originally and just program a new one. That would be the easiest solution.
Click to expand...

definately need to brush up on my electronics, thats a big weakness for me.

any specific way to tell if my 4runner previously had a key fob?
 
March 31st, 2018

Push Start Button Finalization

I was able to take another look at the system this past Saturday in hopes of getting rid of the last bug I have been experiencing. When the car cycles the door locks, it turns the car into the "on" position for a couple of seconds as well as actuating something under the hood in a pattern; 3 clicks for lock, 2 for unlock. On top of that, the system would not flash the lights signifying that an action had occurred. My guess was that the clicking noise was the light pattern when the doors would lock/unlock. I went through all of the wires I installed on the security side, but everything looked to be hooked up properly. Next up was looking into the way I installed the lights. I used the hazard switch junction connector as a way to get power to the turn signals, but that seemed to be the root cause of the issue.

I removed the light input wires from the hazard light circuit, and ran a wire to the engine bay's fuse block to check the parking light functionality...and it worked! Not only did that get the lights to cycle properly, but the clicking and car turning on issue went away. In order to clean it up and not have a wire routed on the outside of the car, I had to pass the wire through the bulkhead connector and up to the fuse block. I had never taken the fuse block out before, but there were 4 clips holding it in place. With those undone, the block can be removed from the housing. I had just enough room to splice in the wire to the existing parking light circuit. I had to use a crimp instead of solder since there was not enough room to add an extension, but it should work fine since there is not room for it to move.

I verified the lights still worked and buttoned everything back up! All in all, it took a couple weeks to get everything ironed out, but it was fun troubleshooting the various electrical problems that I was experiencing. Being able to walk up to the car and it unlocking has been extremely nice, and I really like that I do not need to pull the key out to start the car anymore. Unfortunately I don't have any photos from this part, but I will have to add an update with the button and all the dash panels installed again!
 
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April 22nd, 2018

StrongArm Rear Lift Gate Supports

Parts List:
- StrongArm Lift Gate Lift Supports 6815
- 2x 1/2" OD x 1/2" L Nylon Spacers

I have been struggling with the rear lift gate all winter since it was kind of cold, causing the lift gate supports to start closing on their own. I was looking for various solutions and came across the StrongArm supports. They state they have added lifting force over the OEM versions, but I was just looking for something that worked better than what's currently on there. After reading some postings about them, I decided to make some bushings out of nylon spacers that were lying around. I drilled them out using a 21/64" (.328") drill bit for the pin to fit through. After some sanding down of the length, they were good to go!

Next up was removing the original supports. These are only held in by 2 retaining rings and pins, 1 on top and 1 on the bottom. I supported the hatch using a 2x4 and removed the supports. One of the retaining rings went flying after I removed it, but luckily my neighbor had the right size (1/4") laying around. In order to get the new supports into place, I had to lift the hatch slightly since they are a little longer than the OEM ones. With the pins in place, and the retaining rings secured, the hatch was good to go again.

The ad wasn't kidding when it said these had more lifting force...the hatch swings open without any help. I used to push the hatch up the remaining couple of inches, but I don't need to do that anymore! Definitely satisfied with how they perform; I will just need to get used to them.

https://flic.kr/p/JiNHfo

https://flic.kr/p/JiNt97

https://flic.kr/p/26rkdcp
 
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JerkyDrewster said:
The ad wasn't kidding when it said these had more lifting force...the hatch swings open without any help. I used to push the hatch up the remaining couple of inches, but I don't need to do that anymore! Definitely satisfied with how they perform; I will just need to get used to them.
Click to expand...

I got these supports too! An additional benefit is that you can quit your gym membership, since you get all the workout you need trying to pull the hatch closed :).
 
May 24th, 2018

Valve Cover Gaskets

Parts List:
- Ishino Valve Cover Gasket Set [W01331742241ISH]

I found some oil awhile ago on the backside of the engine, so over the past few days I decided to finally tackle my seeping valve cover gaskets. It was most likely from the halfmoon or cam plug, so I was just going to do everything all at once. I found the Ishino gasket set on Amazon, and after reading some of the reviews, I decided to go for it. I'm pretty sure these are OEM parts (or very similar) since I had other Ishino gaskets for cam and crank seals.

Overall, it was a very straightforward process since I had done it before. I did find some oil residue on the intake gasket, but I am not quite sure where that would be coming from. I was definitely happy to see how clean the cylinder heads were after removing the valve covers. The covers themselves had a lot of burnt oil stuck to them, so I spent most of the time dealing with that. I did 3 wash cycles using Purple Power which removed most of the oil that was attached. They aren't perfect, but it is definitely an improvement from where they were.

After cleaning up the covers and the rest of the gasket mating surface, I reinstalled the halfmoons and cam plugs with FIPG and the valve cover gaskets. So far, I don't notice any oil seepage, but time will tell. All in all, it took about 6 hours with at least 2 of those hours spent cleaning the valve covers spread across 3 days.

https://flic.kr/p/27ug5GB

Oil on the intake gasket
https://flic.kr/p/27ug5vz

https://flic.kr/p/26os8YG

https://flic.kr/p/26os9ad

https://flic.kr/p/27q75Uy

Before cleaning
https://flic.kr/p/27q7kpf

After cleaning
https://flic.kr/p/24JDiiJ
 
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