jfeltT4R Build Thread 2.0

jfeltT4R

jfeltT4R

New member
I'm back and I'm starting over.

<a href="https://imgur.com/chvL5fW"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/chvL5fW.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Had a bit of an accident in 2017 (Totaled of course). Rather than take the insurance money and buy a different rig, I took it to repair the damage so I could keep the rusty hunk of junk that I had worked so hard on. Too sentimental I guess.

<a href="https://imgur.com/Auz5qBU"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Auz5qBU.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/TiTaYgi"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/TiTaYgi.jpg?2" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I found a '99 in a junk yard near me that had a good font end so I cut it off and welded it on. No frame damage aside from having to weld on new front body mount brackets.

The new fenders/hood were aftermarket and now have a nice patina to them as I never got around to painting. I completed the front end repairs in the spring of 2017 on weekends driving back and forth from Maritime school in NY. My back yard, canopy, and some beers were all that was needed to get the job done. The truck has been in the driveway for a year and a half as I now have another DD.

<a href="https://imgur.com/I8nIbUT"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/I8nIbUT.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/C4ir1yP"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/C4ir1yP.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/oRe1Lz3"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/oRe1Lz3.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Some other things I did during the process:

*Scan Gauge II
*Glowshift Trans Temp Gauge
*New LBJ's
*New UBJ's
*Rebuilt front calipers and replaced rotors
*New radiator
*New A/C compressor and condenser
*New NGK plugs/wires

This was a great learning experience for me and further motivated me to build something that I had a vision for. I couldn't afford the time or cash to really go any further than I had at the time. I'm now much more experienced, with a deeper wallet ready to have fun and do it right this time.

This old rusty 98 SR5 is the perfect candidate for an overhaul
 
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Let's get the ball rolling here.


Frame:

The frame on my 98 has been rotting out ever since I bought it. I've replaced bits and pieces, painted with POR-15, done weld repairs....it's unstoppable. Last time I jacked it up it sounded like I was crushing up a ritz cracker. Time for a new(ish) frame.

After a long search I was able to find a relatively rust free frame in Virginia. It has some mild surface rust along various weld seams but had little to no inner rail rust. Great find in the Mid-Atlantic region!

I stripped down an old boat trailer I had in the yard and the frame sat perfectly on it. Ratchet strap and go!

<a href="https://imgur.com/aqiBF12"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/aqiBF12.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Had the frame blasted by a guy in town and he let me use his shop to coat it. After a lot of research I decided to stick with the trusty POR-15 with a top coat. I was concerned about adhesion after blasting the frame but I figured the metal would be porous enough. I painted the inner rails with Eastwood inner frame paint. The final product came out pretty good and I believe it will last a long time.

<a href="https://imgur.com/hruT6tC"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/hruT6tC.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/mIzovCM"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/mIzovCM.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I went ahead and blasted/coated a pair of front LCA's, and rear control arms as well.



Rear Diff:

I bought a spare axle housing and 3rd member years ago with hopes of retro-fitting it into an E-locker housing. Although I could do it, I'm on the hunt for a clean E-locker housing and 3rd member.

I had the spare rear diff blasted and I coated it as well. If anyone is interested in the axle assembly feel free to reach out.

<a href="https://imgur.com/zdU2h06"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/zdU2h06.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/Hw0SAVe"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Hw0SAVe.jpg?2" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/eV5QlBn"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/eV5QlBn.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>



Upcoming Plans:

I've had a set of SCS F5 16x8 -25 in matte dark bronze laying around that I haven't done anything with yet. Planning to run a 295 or 315 tire when I get to that point in the fall.

<a href="https://imgur.com/28Fmc5P"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/28Fmc5P.jpg?2" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I will be re-gearing to 4.88's once I have the tire situation figured out along with finding an E-locker rear diff.


As far as suspension goes, I'm likely going to stick with my OME 3" lift for now. 883's up front, 891's in the rear and Bilstein 5100 shocks all the way around. I received a set of JBA UCA's to fix the obvious issues caused by the stock UCA's. Not much info on the forums about anyone running these but I'll give them a shot!

<a href="https://imgur.com/tCvlirL"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/tCvlirL.jpg?2" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>



Bare with me as I will be head back to my ship next week and won't return until November sometime. At that point I plan on beginning to build everything from the ground up so when the time comes I can swap the body and be on my way!
 
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Looks awesome man, it’s an awesome feeling getting back in a 3rd gen after a break. Good luck in your travels.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Home after a few months of working on the ship. Enough with working on big engines, time to get to work on the 4Runner.

<a href="https://imgur.com/kOEjEzb"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/kOEjEzb.jpg?2" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

The day I got back I went and got the frame and trailer from storage to set the frame up on stands in the garage. Kind of having to set up a "new" workspace. Lots of lugging tools back and forth from the house.

I still have several items that need to be blasted and coated but for the most part I'm close to putting things together. Waiting on rear shocks, new steering rack, and a bunch of other little goodies.

Picked up a press from HF on black Friday to do new wheel bearings in all four corners. Trying to get my hands on some cheap press plates so I don't kill myself pressing out the front hubs.

Anyway, this is my current state of affairs. I've only been home about a week so expect to see some good progress shortly!

<a href="https://imgur.com/O4TVnIf"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/O4TVnIf.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


<a href="https://imgur.com/hmM4U4T"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/hmM4U4T.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Cheers everyone
 
Waiting on USPS especially this year has been aggravating but I'm working as I receive parts and special tools.

Today's completed tasks:

*Disassemble rear axles
*Disassemble, clean, & paint drum brake components
*Assemble rear suspension on frame (except panhard bar, still need to install eimkieth PCK)

As an aside, the donaldthebonald press tool for the rear axles is a must. Made the job a breeze!

<a href="https://imgur.com/z0H7o07"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/z0H7o07.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Cylinder's were pretty puch trashed on the exterior. I was able to needle off most of the scale and get them relatively clean to coat.

<a href="https://imgur.com/7t8OtZm"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/7t8OtZm.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Cylinder lining and piston seals are in great shape, should be just fine to re-use.

<a href="https://imgur.com/AjiUfYG"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/AjiUfYG.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Paint!

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Working by myself to assemble the rear suspension on a light frame was a bit of a challange but with a handful of ratchet straps I was able to compress/articulate to get shocks, springs, and control arms in.

Shocks: Bilstein B8's.

Springs: My old OME 891's. I did not see any apparent sagging over the time I had them on the old rig so I had them blasted and re-coated for reuse.

Upper and lower control arms: factory

<a href="https://imgur.com/nBECdCF"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/nBECdCF.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/eZ2ENgu"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/eZ2ENgu.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/wJcyilu"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/wJcyilu.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/TfaJH6B"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/TfaJH6B.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Pretty good day for me. The cold is starting to get to me so it's time to fill up the propane tanks and get the heater going...

Maybe installing new steering rack tonight!
 
Pretty productive day, hoping the trend continues.

Today's completed tasks:

*Install poly bushings into new steering rack

*Install steering rack (left loose so I have wiggle room when installing cam adjusters).

*Press out front hubs and prep for blasting/coating

Steering Rack:

Pressed out OEM bushings to replace with the TC Poly bushing kit. Used a basic ball joint service kit and an impact. Made for quick work.

<a href="https://imgur.com/2ZynnTC"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/2ZynnTC.jpg?2" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/jSG1Qfy"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/jSG1Qfy.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Final Product:
<a href="https://imgur.com/dTOjScO"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/dTOjScO.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

The engery suspension bushing kit I have previously used came with a washer that mounts between the rack and the frame where the long through bolts goes. The TC kit did not come with one and after setting the rack in place, it definitely needs a washer. Just picked up a 5/8" washer from my local ace.

But anyway, here is the rack installed and ready to be torqued whatever year I finish this project. (Waiting on the new bushing bracket to come in the mail)

<a href="https://imgur.com/Vo6wjaD"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Vo6wjaD.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


Front Hubs

I want anything and everything practical to be new/rebuilt on this build. So with that being said, might as well do the wheel bearings and seals while I have the opportunity.

This job was pretty cumbersome without an extra set of hands. Press plates and the whole kit and kaboodle hit the deck multiple times while setting up. But with the right press plates and some other little items the pressing itself is relatively simple.

The only real hiccup I had was after removing the hubs, the bearings had loaded up into the snap ring. The last set I did it only took a few taps of the bearing with a dead blow and I was able to move them back enough to take pressure of the snap ring. This time was another story... I had to beat the bearings into submission. A brass punch and a BFH worked for me.

Pressing out hubs with a 35mm socket:

<a href="https://imgur.com/Uxqm6C3"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Uxqm6C3.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Pressing out bearings: I offset one of my ball joint tools in the hub to contact the inner and out races. This isn't the ideal way of doing it but it works.

<a href="https://imgur.com/tCrIhdH"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/tCrIhdH.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Everything out:

<a href="https://imgur.com/hhQtz71"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/hhQtz71.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I will use the descaling gun and wire wheel to clean up the knuckles before sandblasting and press all the new goodies in when that's all done.

Tomorrow's plan is to finish the press work on the rear axles then enjoy the weekend.
 
The holidays really slowed things down. Getting back to work now!

Tires

Ended up going with 295/75/16 BFG A/T's. I've had a couple sets in the past and will likely never get anything different.

The tire shop mounted them on my SCS F5's and scratched/chipped paint on all four wheels at the hub after i begged them to be extremely careful. Really really sucks adding that to the list of issues to solve. But all that aside, here they are.

<a href="https://imgur.com/JTIbG8s"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/JTIbG8s.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


PCK Install

Picked up a PCK from @eimkieth and welded it in on Christmas day. Came out pretty good and I'm excited to feel the ride difference once this thing is on the road.

<a href="https://imgur.com/Keu2SJ0"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Keu2SJ0.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/Rk7oKA1"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Rk7oKA1.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Strut Reinforcement Plates

Also welded on some strut reinforcement plates that came from @eimkieth as well. I don't think I really needed them but can't hurt right?

<a href="https://imgur.com/LxhQk8N"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/LxhQk8N.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


Spindle Builds

I ordered the TC spindle gussets and welded them on before sandblast. Everything came back from sandblast/coating yesterday so I got right to more press work.

There are a few write ups on the forum on this job so I'll just keep what I did simple.

1) Press in new bearings:

*Use one of your old bearings as your press tool as to evenly distribute force over the inner and outer races.

<a href="https://imgur.com/lm5UbAM"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/lm5UbAM.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


2) Install new snap ring and outer dust shield:

*You can work the new snap ring in by hand, no need for and kind of pliers.

*use a small piece of 2x4 and tap the outer seal into place. Mine were
especially difficult to press down evenly.

<a href="https://imgur.com/FGU790i"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/FGU790i.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


3) Press in new hubs:

*Be sure to support the inner race of the wheel bearing from the bottom
when doing this.

<a href="https://imgur.com/Gl4rAt4"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Gl4rAt4.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


4) Drop in ABS rotor

5) Gently press the spacer in with the bevel facing inboard. The spacer should be free to spin on the hub and independently of the ABS rotor.

6) Install inner dust shield

7) Check for and kind of binding or inconsistencies. These are big a** bearings. They should rotate smoothly with a light resistance when spinning by hand.

Enjoy some clean and proper knuckles!

<a href="https://imgur.com/2NXn2iQ"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/2NXn2iQ.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

As an aside, I generally opt against using any kind of grease on interference fit components. I made an exception here and use the slightest amount just to aid in assembly (hopefully won't need to aid in disassembly!)

Just waiting on a special tone ring tool for the rear axles and then I'll finish the press work on those. Lots of itsy bitsy busy work in the meantime.
 
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Great job.Your ground up build is super clean and professional. Looking forward to the rest of the build.
 
I wish I could swap out my rusted frame with a fresh one but it would look really goofy doing it in the driveway of my complex. My frame is still very solid though.
 
jfeltT4R said:
Much appreciated! I want this thing to have the bones around!
Click to expand...

super nice work. I did pretty much the same thing.

check out PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World they have OEM parts at much better prices and they ship it from the UAE in like 3 days. I can get parts from UAE to MN faster than toyota USA can ship them to me from Chicago. go figure.

your top plates you posted about on partsouq are like $38 + shipping so that gives you an idea how much the USA toyota suppliers jack up the price to gouge you.


My frame replace starts about here or so...
1997 Sketchy SleepyDad build

cheers man waiting for more posts :)
 
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sleepydad said:
super nice work. I did pretty much the same thing.

check out PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World they have OEM parts at much better prices and they ship it from the UAE in like 3 days. I can get parts from UAE to MN faster than toyota USA can ship them to me from Chicago. go figure.

your top plates you posted about on partsouq are like $38 + shipping so that gives you an idea how much the USA toyota suppliers jack up the price to gouge you.


My frame replace starts about here or so...
1997 Sketchy SleepyDad build

cheers man waiting for more posts :)
Click to expand...


Thanks for the info! I've had pretty good luck with partsouq and mcgeorge. Results vary on different parts so I pick and choose. Pretty much everything down to the nuts and bolts on this build will be OEM. (Things that matter anyway).

Just checked out your thread, awesome work! Gives me some extra inspiration.
 
Moving right along

Made a bonehead move with the front spindles. I forgot to add the JBA UCA adapters before welding on the gussets. This didn't allow any room for the adapter pieces to get pressed in from the bottom up.

I ended up just slotting the upper hole up a little ways so the diameter of the adapter could clear (didn't end up looking too horrendous). These adapters went in tight!

<a href="https://imgur.com/tSCrJfs"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/tSCrJfs.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/Lsda6Jq"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Lsda6Jq.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/fA7DsnG"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/fA7DsnG.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>



Rear Axle Press Work

This was a bear without an extra set of hands. Here's how it went

Parts:

<a href="https://imgur.com/B916hUl"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/B916hUl.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>



Installed new bearing and outer seal:

<a href="https://imgur.com/r0hCgJx"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/r0hCgJx.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/3leDudB"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/3leDudB.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>



Press on outer spacer:
(The bearing popped out of place 4 or 5 times while walking the axle over to the press...easy way to lose you sh**)

<a href="https://imgur.com/g3Ul0YK"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/g3Ul0YK.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>



Install snap ring:
(you'll hate yourself if you forget to, don't ask how I know)

<a href="https://imgur.com/cH2HRzi"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/cH2HRzi.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>



Press on the ABS ring and inner spacer:
I flipped my spacer as per recommendation with new axle seal P/N

<a href="https://imgur.com/8As6rAM"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/8As6rAM.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>



I started at approx 5mm of polished axle to begin the grease test after installing the new axle seals.

<a href="https://imgur.com/T7ZdlWI"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/T7ZdlWI.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>



Install new axle seals:

<a href="https://imgur.com/ABKJuut"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/ABKJuut.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/aWnxHQ1"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/aWnxHQ1.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>



Perform grease test:

I did not have the 3rd member in the axle housing when doing this which may not have given me the most accurate results with the slight bearing deflection. Close enough for now and I will check again once I finish re-gearing.

My final results were 5mm (R) and 6+ (L). I would have loved for them to be the same but I think this will work. Grease test showed center contact on both inner spacers.

<a href="https://imgur.com/1YYmeGs"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/1YYmeGs.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>



Starting to look like something

<a href="https://imgur.com/a95A1ME"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/a95A1ME.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>



Finishing up the front suspension is next and then back to work for a few months. Cheers
 
Front Suspension

*OME 883
*Bilstein 5100 (adjustable)
*JBA UCA
*0.5" Top plate spacer

First step was to press out the studs in the new OEM top hats. They were going to be way too short with the added reinforcement plate and spacer. In hindsight, just beat the studs out with a hammer rather than trying to press out all 3 at the same time. One stud gave prematurely to the others and the whole press assemble pretty much exploded.

Using the shop mount as a jig, pull the new studs through the top had until seated firmly. Now the top hats have 2" studs. I might have to trim the inboard stud as it might not clear with wheel well when I drop the body on.

<a href="https://imgur.com/4ivb3zJ"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/4ivb3zJ.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/P52E61l"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/P52E61l.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/qHqC8aq"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/qHqC8aq.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


Next I went ahead and assembled the struts. The new shocks didn't come with bushings or washers so I had to find a couple of kits that matched. Once I could get the top nut on I just tightened until about 4-5 threads were showing. The bushing was bulged pretty heavily after decompressing the spring so we'll see how that plays out.

Some small details, the bottom termination of the spring is to be facing outboard. I mounted the top hat by itself in the strut mount and marked center. Once you have the strut assembled with the spring still compressed, align the spring termination with the center mark on the top hat. Rotate the bottom mounting hole so that is is perpendicular to the center plane you just created. If the lower mount doesn't line up with the LCA quite right, just stick a screw driver in and rotate until it lines up.

<a href="https://imgur.com/570XgjC"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/570XgjC.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/KcIpWBM"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/KcIpWBM.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


I set the spindles in place just to clear some floor space and see how it was all going to look. Everything looks to be in good order. The only question I raised was how am I going to get the JBA UBJ out of the knuckle with the spindle gusset welded on there. Does anyone have any suggestions? I don't think any ball joint tools I have will fit this scenario. Another oversight on my part but I'm sure there's a way.


<a href="https://imgur.com/apd18ZV"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/apd18ZV.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/YoMM6R9"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/YoMM6R9.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

How will I remove this UBJ?
<a href="https://imgur.com/hktpVtM"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/hktpVtM.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


Well this pretty much wraps up all that I will be able to do for the next few months. Hoping to come home to lots of goodies to keep the project going. Thanks to all who have helped out thus far. This is a fun one!
 
Back from work for a little while. The weather is getting nice so I can finally work in the garage without spending all of my money on propane...


Rear Brakes

First order of business was to sort out the confusion between the 3rd gen brake differences. The rear diff assembly I used as a donor was from an 01/02 which had the "different" style brakes than what would appear on most maintenance videos on YouTube for example. This got tricky quick as I bought rear shoes for a '98 but did not realize the hardware I had would not work with those shoes. Rather than re-use the parts I had planned on, I went ahead and ordered all of the components with '98 P/Ns.

<a href="https://imgur.com/brRav5L"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/brRav5L.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


After doing my initial adjustments with the star-wheel I decided to leave the drums on and install the wheels. I wanted to make a couple more small adjustments through the window on the backing plate but quickly found out that the window is opposite of what would have been on a '98 (confirmed with cross-referencing P/Ns).

<a href="https://imgur.com/MHWm9gS"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/MHWm9gS.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


Rather than get new backing plates and have to completely go through the axle building process all over again, why not just slot new holes?? Drilled/cut new slots for the brake adjustment and ordered an extra set of plugs to seal it all up once complete.

<a href="https://imgur.com/aF3x0bA"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/aF3x0bA.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/wYpyJw1"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/wYpyJw1.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


I installed the new 3rd member studs in the diff housing before putting the axles back in. Clean threads with tap and be generous with the antiseize. The 3rd member will be coming back out after I get finished with the re-geared set. Having the diff installed will let me have some peace of mind after putting the wheels on and rolling the chassis around. Not a fan of the uneven bearing load... even if it's just sitting.

<a href="https://imgur.com/g8zNCmC"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/g8zNCmC.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>



Front Brakes

Went ahead and just did the Tundra brake upgrade:

*OEM rotors
*13WL re-manned calipers
*Akebono pads

I always remembered how much of a PITA the caliper bolts were for me. I was always afraid I'd snap a head off trying to remove one. Cleaned the threads with a new tap and added a small amount of antiseize to the bolts. It's common to add some loctite to your caliper bolts but I don't see it 100% necessary in this case...I'd rather find out something is loose than find out it's stuck forever.

<a href="https://imgur.com/Vsjan36"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Vsjan36.jpg?2" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


Everything went together as I had hoped and I think the red calipers and dark bronze wheels compliment each other nicely. I'm looking forward to having some extra beefy front brakes.

<a href="https://imgur.com/AMJ33gE"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/AMJ33gE.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/s8SSeFN"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/s8SSeFN.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/7RJeyvQ"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/7RJeyvQ.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>



Rolling Chassis....finally

Spent the rest of the afternoon getting the new wheels on and getting the whole assembly on some dolly's. I have a couple of used CV axles that I may chop up to cinch up the front wheel bearings before moving it all around too much. We'll see about that or just waiting for the finished re-geared front diff. It's finally starting to look like something. Still a ton of little things to get done of course but it's time to start planning for the body swap.

<a href="https://imgur.com/LItGxVh"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/LItGxVh.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/mrEMfJG"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/mrEMfJG.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


Cheers everyone
 
epic build, wow. i know just enough to be seriously impressed when someone like you does a total rebuild from bare metal. it's looking superb. thanks for keeping the timeline going.
 
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