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Old 01-13-2019, 07:15 PM #31
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Originally Posted by sleepydad View Post
I think I have about 10 CFM @ 90 psi with my ganged up harbor freight 30 gal's. my blasting setup.

I don't have anyplace to spray that is heated. My wife might get angry if I setup a spray booth in the living room?

I'm going to need to do some kind of internal frame coating thing after I'm outside because there are still some places you just can't get with a brush or spray gun. the spring perch/sway bar bracket mount area and panhard bar mount have sealed areas.
That’s perfect the HF guns require 6cfm at 40psi for the gravity feed gun and 2cfm at 40psi for the siphon feed gun. Heat is necessary though. Minimum of 60*. I think the E-coats are overrated. Just use the stuff you’re using(or for anyone reading this and bought a difference product just make sure you’re using a good quality epoxy primer then a compatible topcoat, most companies have products that go together). Products like por15 and chassis saver can be used in cold temps it just takes forever to dry. I also have a paint spray gun that has a long tube that’s like the Eastwood aerosol frame coating cans.
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Old 01-13-2019, 08:26 PM #32
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Originally Posted by T4topher View Post
@TonyB66 is using some product from Eastwood to get on the inside of his frame, it has a 3’ hose attachment or something.
Indeed, looking at that box now actually; and moments ago used my air compressor to blow-out some dust and debris from the rear of the frame rails...

From the Eastwood website, 3 cans is sufficient for treating inside the frame rails. I had decided to get 4 to have some extra and use in other places. Then I realized with various discounts and free shipping specials, it was only a few bucks more to get 7 cans.



Ended-up being 12 dollars a can delivered. They have it on discount for $19/can.

Internal Frame Coating w/Spray Nozzle | Eastwood
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Old 01-13-2019, 08:49 PM #33
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Originally Posted by Greenmachine86 View Post
My mat on the driverside has the exact same hole in it as yours!!! And the tire, i would say they or you got the goodie outta that one
I guess it's a pretty common spot for failure. I might cut the drivers side floor out of a salvage runner next summer but... not sure if I want to save this body because it's so far gone already. probably look for another body after I get the frame part re-done.
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Old 01-13-2019, 08:56 PM #34
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Originally Posted by MN4runnerman View Post
That’s perfect the HF guns require 6cfm at 40psi for the gravity feed gun and 2cfm at 40psi for the siphon feed gun. Heat is necessary though. Minimum of 60*. I think the E-coats are overrated. Just use the stuff you’re using(or for anyone reading this and bought a difference product just make sure you’re using a good quality epoxy primer then a compatible topcoat, most companies have products that go together). Products like por15 and chassis saver can be used in cold temps it just takes forever to dry. I also have a paint spray gun that has a long tube that’s like the Eastwood aerosol frame coating cans.
I will try spraying this stuff but I can't do it until winter is over. it would take a dam long time to brush an entire frame. Like you said it takes forever for this moisture activated stuff to cure with the low humidity right now. they claim 3-6 hours and it's taking 16-18 hours right t now. HR in my shop was 17.... kicked on the humidifier and now I'm pushing 35 so that should help the cure time a bit.

did you ever do those knuckles?
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Old 01-13-2019, 09:00 PM #35
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Originally Posted by TonyB66 View Post
Indeed, looking at that box now actually; and moments ago used my air compressor to blow-out some dust and debris from the rear of the frame rails...

From the Eastwood website, 3 cans is sufficient for treating inside the frame rails. I had decided to get 4 to have some extra and use in other places. Then I realized with various discounts and free shipping specials, it was only a few bucks more to get 7 cans.



Ended-up being 12 dollars a can delivered. They have it on discount for $19/can.

Internal Frame Coating w/Spray Nozzle | Eastwood
cool this was also my plan... once I get outside and get setup. I think I'm going to do the inside of the frame first then blast and coat the outside. just from a drips and runs perspective I can see already stuff runs out the holes and makes drips and runs. think doing the inside of the frame first makes sense.

please share your experience once you give it a try. it seems like by the time I'm done with these one off's I know what I should have done.

"Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it." - Steven Wright
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Old 01-13-2019, 09:03 PM #36
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Originally Posted by sleepydad View Post
I will try spraying this stuff but I can't do it until winter is over. it would take a dam long time to brush an entire frame. Like you said it takes forever for this moisture activated stuff to cure with the low humidity right now. they claim 3-6 hours and it's taking 16-18 hours right t now. HR in my shop was 17.... kicked on the humidifier and now I'm pushing 35 so that should help the cure time a bit.

did you ever do those knuckles?
Yep I did. I used chassis saver brand primer then sprayed their topcoat and they look basically brand new. I’m putting them on the truck in a couple weeks along with a lot of other goodies.
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Old 01-14-2019, 05:28 PM #37
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There's something irresistible about a rusty and patina-ridden craiglist 4Runner that is in the 3-digit range. Been there, done that. Not the best investment but I love it. Reminds me of my green truck, even has the same spot of rot creeping up on the rear fender flare.
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Old 01-14-2019, 06:06 PM #38
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Originally Posted by sleepydad View Post
cool this was also my plan... once I get outside and get setup. I think I'm going to do the inside of the frame first then blast and coat the outside. just from a drips and runs perspective I can see already stuff runs out the holes and makes drips and runs. think doing the inside of the frame first makes sense.

please share your experience once you give it a try. it seems like by the time I'm done with these one off's I know what I should have done.

"Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it." - Steven Wright
If you were closer, I'd sell you 3 of those cans for $36 (my delivered cost)...

I won't be doing this until it warms-up. I have no pressing rust issues, as far as I can tell. Not sure you saw this thread...

Endoscoping the 3rd gen...

Really like having an endoscope!
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Old 01-14-2019, 06:49 PM #39
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Originally Posted by TonyB66 View Post
If you were closer, I'd sell you 3 of those cans for $36 (my delivered cost)...

I won't be doing this until it warms-up. I have no pressing rust issues, as far as I can tell. Not sure you saw this thread...

Endoscoping the 3rd gen...

Really like having an endoscope!
I also have one of those amazon scopes, my wife got it for me last Xmas. She told me I always was complaining about getting into those tight spots to see the details. She then told me to wipe that sick smile off my face.

I also looked at roto rooter stuff for the pressure wash... not sure yet. I will post something once I get rolling. I have bare frame it should makes things easier.

Last edited by sleepydad; 01-14-2019 at 11:30 PM. Reason: stupid words again
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Old 01-14-2019, 11:40 PM #40
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Originally Posted by T4R2014 View Post
There's something irresistible about a rusty and patina-ridden craiglist 4Runner that is in the 3-digit range. Been there, done that. Not the best investment but I love it. Reminds me of my green truck, even has the same spot of rot creeping up on the rear fender flare.
this one also smells like it drove home from a bunch of late night collage parties. I'm pretty sure there is something dead someplace still hiding in it.

I really just wanted it for the engine... but then somehow it ended up becoming a frame up restore project. when it goes thru the car wash it looks really nice, except those gaping holes. For now keeping the dream alive.
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Old 01-14-2019, 11:56 PM #41
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@sleepydad what’s your sandblasting setup? Pressure pot or one of those handheld ones?
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Old 01-15-2019, 09:57 AM #42
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@sleepydad what’s your sandblasting setup? Pressure pot or one of those handheld ones?
it works ok. I can go for maybe 10 mins then I have to stop and let it catch up. the HF compressors are terrible but... as always cheap.

20 lbs. Pressurized Abrasive Blaster
20 lbs. Pressurized Abrasive Blaster

2 of these ganged up
21 gal. 2.5 HP 125 PSI Cast Iron Vertical Air Compressor
21 gal. 2.5 HP 125 PSI Cast Iron Vertical Air Compressor

AllSource Abrasive Blaster Deadman II Nozzle Kit
AllSource Abrasive Blaster Deadman II Nozzle Kit | Northern Tool + Equipment
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Old 04-10-2019, 01:04 PM #43
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1997 Sketchy SleepyDad build
I had the EXACT SAME damage on my 97. I made a "plate" with a captive nut that I installed from the inside of the seat-support-rail (if that's what it's called) when I had the carpet out.

FUN
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Old 04-22-2019, 11:30 PM #44
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starting frame replace

I finally got a chance to pull the salvage frame I got last winter off the trailer and stripped it all the way down.

found some damage, the captive nut inside the steering rack support is busted off so I will have to grind a hole or something and re-weld that little nut. the front recovery point is also bent... not hard but again will have to bust out the welder/grinder. it's a start. I need a new tank of C25 for the mig machine.

1997 Sketchy SleepyDad build

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Old 04-28-2019, 07:54 PM #45
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chassis rotisserie

I used my harbor freight birthday bucks to grab another engine stand. who does not need yet another engine stand?

since I need to do some work on this frame and my back hurts most of the time now that I'm 50... I decided this would make it much easier to weld and paint the frame. progress is slow but so am I. I can only rotate it 1/2 way but that should be enough.

also picked up the titanium mig setup... ran some test beads and this is a decent little machine. it's been 15 years since I have welded so I'm pretty rusty at it but these frame welds just need to be strong.

1997 Sketchy SleepyDad build

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