01-13-2019, 07:15 PM
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#31
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepydad
I think I have about 10 CFM @ 90 psi with my ganged up harbor freight 30 gal's. my blasting setup.
I don't have anyplace to spray that is heated. My wife might get angry if I setup a spray booth in the living room?
I'm going to need to do some kind of internal frame coating thing after I'm outside because there are still some places you just can't get with a brush or spray gun. the spring perch/sway bar bracket mount area and panhard bar mount have sealed areas.
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That’s perfect the HF guns require 6cfm at 40psi for the gravity feed gun and 2cfm at 40psi for the siphon feed gun. Heat is necessary though. Minimum of 60*. I think the E-coats are overrated. Just use the stuff you’re using(or for anyone reading this and bought a difference product just make sure you’re using a good quality epoxy primer then a compatible topcoat, most companies have products that go together). Products like por15 and chassis saver can be used in cold temps it just takes forever to dry. I also have a paint spray gun that has a long tube that’s like the Eastwood aerosol frame coating cans.
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2001 Sport Edition 4WD, IJM, Auto, DD
1999 SR5 4WD, Millennium Silver Metallic, 5 speed, E-locker, Trail Rig
1998 SR5 4WD Custom bodywork from hitting a median. Beater truck.
1999 Limited 4WD No longer a vehicle. Now it's in parts and stored away.
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01-13-2019, 08:26 PM
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#32
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: South SF Bay, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T4topher
@ TonyB66
is using some product from Eastwood to get on the inside of his frame, it has a 3’ hose attachment or something.
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Indeed, looking at that box now actually; and moments ago used my air compressor to blow-out some dust and debris from the rear of the frame rails...
From the Eastwood website, 3 cans is sufficient for treating inside the frame rails. I had decided to get 4 to have some extra and use in other places. Then I realized with various discounts and free shipping specials, it was only a few bucks more to get 7 cans.
Ended-up being 12 dollars a can delivered. They have it on discount for $19/can.
Internal Frame Coating w/Spray Nozzle | Eastwood
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2000 Limited, E-locker
Maintenance/Build Thread
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01-13-2019, 08:49 PM
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#33
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Minnesota
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Real Name: Andy ಠ_ಠ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenmachine86
My mat on the driverside has the exact same hole in it as yours!!! And the tire, i would say they or you got the goodie outta that one
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I guess it's a pretty common spot for failure. I might cut the drivers side floor out of a salvage runner next summer but... not sure if I want to save this body because it's so far gone already. probably look for another body after I get the frame part re-done.
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01-13-2019, 08:56 PM
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#34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MN4runnerman
That’s perfect the HF guns require 6cfm at 40psi for the gravity feed gun and 2cfm at 40psi for the siphon feed gun. Heat is necessary though. Minimum of 60*. I think the E-coats are overrated. Just use the stuff you’re using(or for anyone reading this and bought a difference product just make sure you’re using a good quality epoxy primer then a compatible topcoat, most companies have products that go together). Products like por15 and chassis saver can be used in cold temps it just takes forever to dry. I also have a paint spray gun that has a long tube that’s like the Eastwood aerosol frame coating cans.
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I will try spraying this stuff but I can't do it until winter is over. it would take a dam long time to brush an entire frame. Like you said it takes forever for this moisture activated stuff to cure with the low humidity right now. they claim 3-6 hours and it's taking 16-18 hours right t now. HR in my shop was 17.... kicked on the humidifier and now I'm pushing 35 so that should help the cure time a bit.
did you ever do those knuckles?
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01-13-2019, 09:00 PM
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#35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyB66
Indeed, looking at that box now actually; and moments ago used my air compressor to blow-out some dust and debris from the rear of the frame rails...
From the Eastwood website, 3 cans is sufficient for treating inside the frame rails. I had decided to get 4 to have some extra and use in other places. Then I realized with various discounts and free shipping specials, it was only a few bucks more to get 7 cans.
Ended-up being 12 dollars a can delivered. They have it on discount for $19/can.
Internal Frame Coating w/Spray Nozzle | Eastwood
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cool this was also my plan... once I get outside and get setup. I think I'm going to do the inside of the frame first then blast and coat the outside. just from a drips and runs perspective I can see already stuff runs out the holes and makes drips and runs. think doing the inside of the frame first makes sense.
please share your experience once you give it a try. it seems like by the time I'm done with these one off's I know what I should have done.
"Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it." - Steven Wright
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01-13-2019, 09:03 PM
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#36
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Join Date: Feb 2014
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Real Name: Samuel
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Join Date: Feb 2014
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Real Name: Samuel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepydad
I will try spraying this stuff but I can't do it until winter is over. it would take a dam long time to brush an entire frame. Like you said it takes forever for this moisture activated stuff to cure with the low humidity right now. they claim 3-6 hours and it's taking 16-18 hours right t now. HR in my shop was 17.... kicked on the humidifier and now I'm pushing 35 so that should help the cure time a bit.
did you ever do those knuckles?
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Yep I did. I used chassis saver brand primer then sprayed their topcoat and they look basically brand new. I’m putting them on the truck in a couple weeks along with a lot of other goodies.
__________________
2001 Sport Edition 4WD, IJM, Auto, DD
1999 SR5 4WD, Millennium Silver Metallic, 5 speed, E-locker, Trail Rig
1998 SR5 4WD Custom bodywork from hitting a median. Beater truck.
1999 Limited 4WD No longer a vehicle. Now it's in parts and stored away.
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01-14-2019, 05:28 PM
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#37
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Jun 2011
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There's something irresistible about a rusty and patina-ridden craiglist 4Runner that is in the 3-digit range. Been there, done that. Not the best investment but I love it. Reminds me of my green truck, even has the same spot of rot creeping up on the rear fender flare.
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01-14-2019, 06:06 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: South SF Bay, CA
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Real Name: Tony (no surprise)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: South SF Bay, CA
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Real Name: Tony (no surprise)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepydad
cool this was also my plan... once I get outside and get setup. I think I'm going to do the inside of the frame first then blast and coat the outside. just from a drips and runs perspective I can see already stuff runs out the holes and makes drips and runs. think doing the inside of the frame first makes sense.
please share your experience once you give it a try. it seems like by the time I'm done with these one off's I know what I should have done.
"Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it." - Steven Wright
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If you were closer, I'd sell you 3 of those cans for $36 (my delivered cost)...
I won't be doing this until it warms-up. I have no pressing rust issues, as far as I can tell. Not sure you saw this thread...
Endoscoping the 3rd gen...
Really like having an endoscope!
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01-14-2019, 06:49 PM
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#39
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Join Date: Jun 2017
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Real Name: Andy ಠ_ಠ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyB66
If you were closer, I'd sell you 3 of those cans for $36 (my delivered cost)...
I won't be doing this until it warms-up. I have no pressing rust issues, as far as I can tell. Not sure you saw this thread...
Endoscoping the 3rd gen...
Really like having an endoscope!
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I also have one of those amazon scopes, my wife got it for me last Xmas. She told me I always was complaining about getting into those tight spots to see the details. She then told me to wipe that sick smile off my face.
I also looked at roto rooter stuff for the pressure wash... not sure yet. I will post something once I get rolling. I have bare frame it should makes things easier.
Last edited by sleepydad; 01-14-2019 at 11:30 PM.
Reason: stupid words again
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01-14-2019, 11:40 PM
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#40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T4R2014
There's something irresistible about a rusty and patina-ridden craiglist 4Runner that is in the 3-digit range. Been there, done that. Not the best investment but I love it. Reminds me of my green truck, even has the same spot of rot creeping up on the rear fender flare.
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this one also smells like it drove home from a bunch of late night collage parties. I'm pretty sure there is something dead someplace still hiding in it.
I really just wanted it for the engine... but then somehow it ended up becoming a frame up restore project. when it goes thru the car wash it looks really nice, except those gaping holes. For now keeping the dream alive.
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01-14-2019, 11:56 PM
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#41
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@ sleepydad
what’s your sandblasting setup? Pressure pot or one of those handheld ones?
__________________
2001 Sport Edition 4WD, IJM, Auto, DD
1999 SR5 4WD, Millennium Silver Metallic, 5 speed, E-locker, Trail Rig
1998 SR5 4WD Custom bodywork from hitting a median. Beater truck.
1999 Limited 4WD No longer a vehicle. Now it's in parts and stored away.
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04-10-2019, 01:04 PM
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#43
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Member
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Join Date: Oct 2016
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Real Name: Reinout
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepydad
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I had the EXACT SAME damage on my 97. I made a "plate" with a captive nut that I installed from the inside of the seat-support-rail (if that's what it's called) when I had the carpet out.
FUN
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1997 4Runner SR5- ~376k Miles and counting - 5 Speed E-Locker
2007 4Runner Limited V6- 165k Miles - Automatic - Brake Controller
2011 VW JSW TDI- 130k Miles - 6 Speed - Air Lift 1000
2006 Scamp trailer 16'
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04-22-2019, 11:30 PM
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#44
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Real Name: Andy ಠ_ಠ
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starting frame replace
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04-28-2019, 07:54 PM
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#45
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chassis rotisserie
I used my harbor freight birthday bucks to grab another engine stand. who does not need yet another engine stand?
since I need to do some work on this frame and my back hurts most of the time now that I'm 50... I decided this would make it much easier to weld and paint the frame. progress is slow but so am I. I can only rotate it 1/2 way but that should be enough.
also picked up the titanium mig setup... ran some test beads and this is a decent little machine. it's been 15 years since I have welded so I'm pretty rusty at it but these frame welds just need to be strong.
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