JFry's Build Thread

tranmd said:
Was installing these UCA fairly easy? Just gauging to see if I can knock these out on a Saturday. I'm fairly mechanically inclined. Just strapped for time with my work schedule. Need special tools?
Click to expand...

I rented 3 tool kits:

(I broke the balljoint separator tool set, the tools have a warrantee so I still got my deposit back)

Seen here: Advance Auto Parts: Search Results

The only sort of tough parts was threading in the zerks and pressing in the ball joint, which I talk about in this build thread.
 
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Knocked out a few small things today

Installed zerks in my UCA balljoints
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Got 35% tint added to the front windows. The guy put a meter on the rear passenger stock tinted windows and it read 38%.
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Installed front sway bar spacers/relocates, I was getting a knocking sound around full lock of the steering wheel when I reversed out of my driveway.
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My OEM front sway bar rubber bushings looked good, so I just cleaned them up and applied some formula 5 bushing grease from energy suspension
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Decided to join the smokers kit club today ($25 eBay). I wanted to free up the button blank for a future LED on/off button install. Install was very easy, <5min.

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Now deciding on a new tire size, torn between 275 & 285 70 17.
:confused:
 
How are those energy suspension lca bushings holding up for you? I've read mixed reviews about them.


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The swaybar relocator blocks didn't fix my 'thud' noise when backing out of my drive way with steering wheel turned. I think it might be coming from the stock skid plate hitting my swaybar, so I bent the lip of the skid plate back...we shall see.
Finally fixed my steering wheel misalignment by adjusting both tierods 2 flats. Now I can drive straight without a crooked steering wheel :reddance:

Does it really matter where the end of the spring is oriented as it sits in the lower perch? I know it needs to fit in the perch groove but do I need to have the end section of the spring facing outward? I'm wondering if the spring is compressing and knocking into my UCAs or something as I back out of my driveway...
 
Found some Spidertrax spacers cheap on craigslist. Guy had them for 3 months and then decided to buy new rims with an offset.

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jfry008 said:
It's dark out now..ill take some in the morning. The guy who aligned it was a douche. I told him my steering wheel was a little crooked and he rode with me and pretty much refused to fix it. I had to do the zero point calibration myself. Not going back to Charles Barker Toyota in VB.
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Most alignment guys are "douches". They think they know more than the user. I've had 3 different douches in my land and my steering wheel is still crooked. Hoping to find a "non-douche" after I replace my stock UCA's. I bet that I can't get castor in Alec spec, but a straight steering wheel shouldn't be to hard.

WTF chuck!!!
 
Finally got up the nerve to buff/polish her.
Everything took about 7 hours.
-washed and clayed (red clay)
-wet sanded deeper scratches with 3M 3000 grit
-Meguiars M105 (orange LC pads) & M205 (white LC pads) w/porter cable orbital buffer

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THANK YOU SWEET BABY JESUS!!!
Today I decided to try and get my 4LO to work. It hasn't worked since I bought it in FEB 2016.
I showed my little brother how to use the 4LO switch and I got under my runner with a rubber mallet and a 12mm socket wrench w/extension. I loosened the 3 12mm bolts connecting the actuator to the xfer case, about 1/2 inch of thread. I told my bro to turn the switch to 4LO and to let the 4LO light blink for 15 sec then put it back in 4HI, then keep repeating. I told him if the 4LO light went solid STOP and tell me. While he was doing that I was prying away the actuator from the xfer case, twisting it a little and wacking the actuator periodically w/ the mallet. I could hear the the actuator trying to engage when he flipped the switch and after 10 minutes of trying to free it up, he yelled that the light was solid! We drove it around in 4LO and switched it around between 4HI, 4LO, and 2HI. Now the truck goes into 4LO very quickly..after a blink or 2 of the 4LO light!
:party:
There is hope!!
 
I'm local as well, i read where you have the thud when backing? Have you solved this? I just did, Torqued the lower control arm cam bolts to 105 ft/lbs (torque spec is 100 ft/lbs I believe.) and I also made sure that my UCAs were torqued to 85 ft/lbs. This solved my clunk/thud noise. I run the same UCAs as well and I have since May/June 2015.
 
wyanrard said:
I'm local as well, i read where you have the thud when backing? Have you solved this? I just did, Torqued the lower control arm cam bolts to 105 ft/lbs (torque spec is 100 ft/lbs I believe.) and I also made sure that my UCAs were torqued to 85 ft/lbs. This solved my clunk/thud noise. I run the same UCAs as well and I have since May/June 2015.
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I didn't use a torque wrench on my UCAs or LCAs..I just got a new torque wrench for my birthday...ill have to give this a try when it's not so hot out
 
I have the same thud also. I remember reading on here somewhere that its the steering stops hitting the LCA. Some people said they greased the surfaces and it helped.
 
wyanrard said:
I'm local as well, i read where you have the thud when backing? Have you solved this? I just did, Torqued the lower control arm cam bolts to 105 ft/lbs (torque spec is 100 ft/lbs I believe.) and I also made sure that my UCAs were torqued to 85 ft/lbs. This solved my clunk/thud noise. I run the same UCAs as well and I have since May/June 2015.
Click to expand...
Did you get this only when the wheel was turned or is it random when backing? I'm getting the same thing and thought that it was only when turning, but it happened today backing up dead straight and I hit a small pothole.

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buckeye4runner08 said:
Did you get this only when the wheel was turned or is it random when backing? I'm getting the same thing and thought that it was only when turning, but it happened today backing up dead straight and I hit a small pothole.

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Click to expand...

I got it at random times as well, not just while turning.
 
buckeye4runner08 said:
Did you get this only when the wheel was turned or is it random when backing? I'm getting the same thing and thought that it was only when turning, but it happened today backing up dead straight and I hit a small pothole.

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Did you torque your control arm bolts with the tires on the ground? I didn't and I had noises just like yours. Then I loosened them and retightend with the tires on the ground instead of up in the air by the jack. Noise went away.
 
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