June 2010 T4ROTM - harper7

[eddiebx]

Technology overload going on in your dash Gary! I still can't get over how cleanly you're able to lay down and trim the Di-Noc.

Motion to move this thread to the 5th gen sub forum :wave:

 

[Izlu]

:hail::hail:

Gees! Welcome back. Your dash looks like a fighter jet cockpit, Gary!

As always, awesome stuff.

That's what I thought too! lane:

 

[Narkhelek]

Were your new gears noisy at first? I just had my diffs re-geared with Nitro 4.56 gears and I get gear whine from 35-40mph and then again above 65. They have about 300 miles on them so far.

 

[harper7]

Were your new gears noisy at first? I just had my diffs re-geared with Nitro 4.56 gears and I get gear whine from 35-40mph and then again above 65. They have about 300 miles on them so far.

No , mine have never made any noise and have almost 30k miles on them.Who set up your gears?That's why I had ECGS build mine as diffs are what they specialize in and build on a daily basis.Chase at ECGS said something about the new rear 8.2's took some special spacers ,washers or something or another to get the back lash right and were different then what they used to be like.

Did you break them in properly ?

500 mile Break-In from East Coast Gear Supply when I bought mine....
On initial run, drive lightly for 15 to 20 minutes then stop to allow differential to cool completely for 20 to 25 minutes.
• Avoid towing and heavy acceleration, as well as vary speeds every 5 to 10 minutes while driving on highways for first 500 miles.
• Drive conservatively and do not drive more than 50 miles at a time without allowing a cool cycle during the first 500 miles following installation.
• After completing initial break-in, change gear oil at 500 miles. Small metal particles are normal and gear oil will typically be black. Excessive metal in gear oil should be reviewed by a competent differential mechanic to ensure safety of internal parts.

Post gear oil change and initial break-in: Towing.
• First time towing should be limited to light load for no more than 15 miles, then allow differential to cool completely for 20 to 25 minutes.
• Repeat this procedure for first 45 miles of towing for full break-in of gears for towing vehicles.

PREMATURE OVERLOADING AND IMPROPER BREAK-IN WILL CAUSE GEAR OIL BREAKDOWN AND MAY RESULT IN RING AND PINION FAILURE VOIDING THE GEAR WARRANTY!

 

[the_josh]

Were your new gears noisy at first? I just had my diffs re-geared with Nitro 4.56 gears and I get gear whine from 35-40mph and then again above 65. They have about 300 miles on them so far.

First of all you should never drive that fast during the break in period and second not all brands of gears sound the same. My first aftermarket were sierra gears and they ran smooth with a hint of a little whine while slowing down. My current Yukon gears in my Currie rear end make no sound what so ever.

Nitro's from what I've heard are noisy

 

[Narkhelek]

I'm certain it's not setup right. I had a shop named Six States that was recommended by two different 4x4 shops in the area do the work. I followed the break in procedures and kept it below 60 until I hit 300. I'm going to try and have him set it up again. If he can't get it right then I will have to have ECGS set it up for me.

 

[MpJustice]

Thanks KidV and JP5!

namiam......I'm usually around the North Ft.Worth,Keller ,Mid Cities area and if it was around there,it was probably me.


Last weekend I changed my Light Racing UCA's out for my old Total Chaos UCA's that I just rebuilt with new Stainless uniballs and poly bushings. I took out the Icon CO's too,cleaned and checked the bushings and they are holding up like new.The LR UCA 'S rubber bushing were shot at 2 years and 35k miles and the squeak was driving me crazy. There are supposed to be better updated LR bushings I'm going to overhaul them with.

I also put on some aftermarket rear sway bar links that are about 3/4" longer then stock,with poly bushings and much beefier.They are manufactured by Skyjacker and made to fit FJ's but our rear sway bar links are almost identical so they should work out fine on a 5th Gen and possibly 4th Gens.. They are longer and made for a 2-3" lift so they don't bind or limit travel like the shorter oem ones.A bunch of guys running them over on the FJ forum. The Skyjacker part number is SBE702 and they come gold but I painted them silver.

Here's a pic comparison to a stock one and a shot of one of them installed.

Hi, I live in FTW too. IF you see a stock black limited behind you waving I am not crazy just want a closer look!

 

[DannyLlama]

It's incredible how often I visit your forum as a point of reference and inspiration.

:thumb3:

 

[PopsSmith]

I am sure you are aware that you are featured on Total Chaos's website for upper control arms.

 

[RHINOSAUR]

one of the best!

Hello,

Just admiring your work shown on this thread in general.....
based on your extensive research on the matter I have a few questions as I try to mod little by little..

1. My 2010 SR5 has this lower panel "thingy" at the very bottom of the front bumper...it really cuts into the approach angle ..I would like to remove it as it seems to unscrew right off..(same as the side rocker panels).... but It also seems like it provides airflow to the undercarriage somehow.....I notice yours does not have this (for obvious reasons) but it potentially still has the central OEM air duct behind the front skid plate....
Is this a assumption correct ?So can i remove the "thingy" and also dare and remove the duct..or should I keep this (even though i do not have a skid plate)

2. on the list you posted i did not recognize the rack you installed....I have been looking for a low profile one like yours...is this completely custom?

3. if i remove the side rocker panels ..how hard or easy is it to ditch the SR5 wheel side panels as well and put in the trail edition version

4. did you buy trail lights or did you paint the inner part of the lamp through disassembly?


sorry if the questions are too naive!

cheers

 

[MisplacedTexan]

Is this a assumption correct ?So can i remove the "thingy" and also dare and remove the duct..or should I keep this (even though i do not have a skid plate)

My scoop got tore off long ago the first time I got stuck in some mud and had to get drug out. No problems with heat or anything here (South Texas), but that's just anecdotal.


Harper, you have any plans to reinstall those LR UCA's? Looking to do a lift in the near future and pick up a set of those and am curious if the new bushings have the squeak in them still.

 

[Gibby0087]

Nice rig man I'm def getting some inspiration for mine once it gets delivered


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Krawlerkid91]

Have pics with the 285 AT2's?

 

[6XGate]

[MENTION=8206]harper7[/MENTION], your truck looks great, but I do have a question. I don't suppose your curiosity got the better of you and you tried to see if the black cover that goes under the top grill (and mostly around the bottom) would fit over the Limited's bumper facade?

 

[Scharfschütze]

xx

I test drove this rig in Houston at some ghetto ass dealership. Still nice but I passed on it due to the miles and the dealership itself was, shady.

 

[Alaska_4Runner]

2012 SR5 Premium

[MENTION=8206]harper7[/MENTION] awesome build, subscribed!

Do you have a the part numbers for your conversion?

Thank you, looking forward to seeing more.

I will get a sheet together with the part numbers but I don't know the price of them. I'm guessing over $3000+ as the last order they showed me with 12 parts was $1700.There are 30 parts,close to 100 plastic attach clips and I had to fab my own bumper attach brackets out of stainless as the Limited/SR5 ones are different and sit lower.They could'nt find the part numbers for the brackets as the bumpers come as an assembly and different part numbers.

Thanks guys, It turned out to be way more of a headache then I ever expected and I've done a frame off restoration on a 70 RS/SS Camaro before. Mainly because it takes so long to get parts from Japan and nobody knew what and how many parts it involved.

 

[bradhannon]

I took the Metra dash adapter for my Pioneer out and made the cutouts for the antenna motorized mount switches,hole for the air gauge and a drilled holes for a 8 inch long rod that I use to hang my Samsung Tab 7.7 tablet as it has a book cover case that works perfect and the rod is also good to hang my Midland CB so I can just hit the button and talk.

Here's pics after the completion and all back together.

And here's with my tablet in place and tethers wirelessly thru my rooted Android phone app and the sound goes thru the Pioneer Z120BT with bluetooth.

I put in glow in the dark mic holders for the Kenwood mic and the Midland 75-822 CB

I also recently swapped out my BajaDesigns Stealth 40" LED bar for their newer and more powerful OnX 44 bar

A couple of months back I also upgraded the rear lower control arms to Metaltech's offset ones and the springs to Toytec Superflex springs.

Height difference between my old SAW's and the Toytec rear springs..... about a 1/2" gain and a little stiffer.

Rear lower control arm comparison of stock vs. Metaltech's....probably twice as strong!

What rod did you use for your tablet? Is it custom?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

[skratchd]

Well my new gears and lockers arrived yesterday. I've been wanting and waiting to do this mod for a long time.I think it will really help with the lack of low end torque on these 5th Gens, especially with the bigger tires .

I got the front clamshell and 3rd member already built up and regeared with 4:56's/ ARB lockers F&R from East Coast Gear Supply.Just have to swap them out,hopefully this weekend and run the air lines down to them.

Anybody with a hint of mechanical aptitude should be able to do it in your own garage.

I also finally completed my fog light HID projector retrofit last weekend and the Vision-X Tantrum rock light install a couple of weeks ago. I'll have pics up when I get a chance but real happy with the outcome.

Here's some pics of the Gears and Lockers ......

Rear 3rd member with the new 8.2" 12 bolt Nitro 4:56 and ARB RD193 Air Locker

Front 8" clamshell with Nitro 4:56 and ARB RD121 Air Locker

Out with the old and in with the new! V

CV axles out and ready for the front clamshell V

Rear third member with 4:56 gear and ARB RD193 locker V

Cleaned out with a new gasket and ready for the new rear diff V

Axle pulled out just enough to install the Diff V

Locker Solenoids

Did you have to lift the motor to get the clamshell out and in?

 

[SHAKEnBLAKE]

Just the flares were going to be painted silver.I originally thought the side flares from the Limited and Trail were the same with the exception being the Limiteds were painted body color.

Not the case. They are completely different in shape and texture.The Limited are smooth and the TE's are sort of pebbled or textured look.They don't mix.

I know it's been years, but I'm thinking of a trail front bumper swap. Do you think if I had the side flares from the trail bumper painted (black) to color-match my stock smooth SR5 flares it would look too weird? Alternatively, anybody know if they ever made smooth ones?

Also, I know you modified the mounting brackets to get the trail bumper on, but I haven't seen anyone post pics or an in-depth explanation of the mods needed. Any tips/details in that department?

 

[SHAKEnBLAKE]

<a href="http://s420.photobucket.com/albums/pp282/gharper60/?action=view&current=Picture073.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/pp282/gharper60/Picture073.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Does anyone know if the SR5 lower grill would fit in that spot where the round fog lights are?

Also, do I really HAVE to change the fender liners? Can I get away with just the front bumper cover and the bumper-mounted flares painted to match my SR5?