Just a random question about long travel suspension

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Dirtrider216

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Like the title says, just a random question about LT suspension that I don’t quite understand.
What I do understand is that LT suspension for the 4Runner adds +2 or +3.5 etc inches to each side of the front wheel track width totaling 4 or 7 inches wider overall
But that’s just in front isn’t it? Is there a way, specifically on 4runners to get the same track width increase in the rear of the vehicle or is that something everyone just deals with and doesn’t really talk about due to the performance benefits of LT suspension?
 
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Having a wider rear axle doesn't really net you much in terms of wheel travel, or any other sort of performance. Running different offset wheels in the rear or adding wheel spacers to the rear can accomplish that but it would mainly be for looks in matching the front.

The reason LT front kits widen track width is purely so they can achieve more travel. I don't think stability is greatly or noticeably increased by adding only 3.5" each side.
 
I have a +2" kit on my truck and just run Spidertrax in the rear. It keeps the width close enough you never even think about it.
 
very good question. i didnt know a lot of those guys were running wider tracks in the front with those setups...kind of irks me or seems wrong.
 
Its crossed my mind many times, and I’ve talked to a few companies about it too being on/off the LT conversion over the past couple years.

Answer is how deep are your pockets... You can always have a custom length rear end built to match, but most don’t due to cost. The cheapest route is to just add spacers and or an offset rim as it gets you there or close enough without the drama. Personally I would be OK with keeping the rear a little narrower.

Considering the additional track width in the rear doesn’t contribute to the travel, I wouldn’t overthink it. At +3.5, expect it to looks wildly pre-runner. The problem with the 4Runner is unlike most truck people, many of us are not cutting into the cab to add shock hoops "bed cage" to bring the rear suspension up to the capability of the fronts.

I’ve come to the realization in my own build that unless I am willing to get into a custom rear, the fronts at +3.5 will most likely be overbuilt compared to the rest of the trucks capability. +2 gets you something a bit more balanced with a standard rear and the track increase also becomes much less of an issue. If anything I would consider pulling the fronts back in a bit with a different rim and go back to a stealthy stock look.

The biggest perk being I still get the added travel, and with the same/similar lift high as current 2.5 to 3", I basically recapture all of that droop I lost by lifting and normalizing the center-line of the suspension stroke. And not having to run fiberglass.
 
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...and because photos always help, here is a +2" kit with 1.25" spidertrax in the rear. As you can see, you really don't even notice the difference in width.

I didn't do the +3.5" because the difference in width and not wanting fiberglass fenders.

c6l92h8.jpg
 
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BlairB said:
...and because photos always help, here is a +2" kit with 1.25" spidertrax in the rear. As you can see, you really don't even notice the difference in width.

I didn't do the +3.5" because the difference in width and not wanting fiberglass fenders.

c6l92h8.jpg
Click to expand...

Nice! You still doing the DSPM life? :)
 
Bumbo said:
Its crossed my mind many times, and I’ve talked to a few companies about it too being on/off the LT conversion over the past couple years.

Answer is how deep are your pockets... You can always have a custom length rear end built to match, but most don’t due to cost. The cheapest route is to just add spacers and or an offset rim as it gets you there or close enough without the drama. Personally I would be OK with keeping the rear a little narrower.

Considering the additional track width in the rear doesn’t contribute to the travel, I wouldn’t overthink it. At +3.5, expect it to looks wildly pre-runner. The problem with the 4Runner is unlike most truck people, many of us are not cutting into the cab to add shock hoops "bed cage" to bring the rear suspension up to the capability of the fronts.

I’ve come to the realization in my own build that unless I am willing to get into a custom rear, the fronts at +3.5 will most likely be overbuilt compared to the rest of the trucks capability. +2 gets you something a bit more balanced with a standard rear and the track increase also becomes much less of an issue. If anything I would consider pulling the fronts back in a bit with a different rim and go back to a stealthy stock look.

The biggest perk being I still get the added travel, and with the same/similar lift high as current 2.5 to 3", I basically recapture all of that droop I lost by lifting and normalizing the center-line of the suspension stroke. And not having to run fiberglass.
Click to expand...
Agree, leaving the rear end narrower for me means if the front end will squeeze through a gap so will the rear and it'll give me a little more clearance turning next to an obstacle. Doesn't sound like much but my other truck is setup a few inches wider out front and it did make a difference in that thing.

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Many aftermarket suspension vendors come up with clever terms like BOSS or ULTIMATE indicating the 'measurable' amount of performance their obfuscated marketing-speak tells you about what to expect from their products. Free your mind with Science and don't toy around with thoughts & prayers.

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