Just bought a 3rd Gen T4R, got some questions

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finestlittlemexica

New member
Hi all,

I just bought a 1997 4runner 3.4L SR5 that had been sitting around for a year with little driving. I have some immediate questions on what I think maybe some issues.

Question 1
I noticed that after braking at a stop sign/light, if I let go of the brake to ease into traffic the truck seems to stutter into gear. Or after letting go of the brake, I press the gas to go and it revs up but doesn't move for a second or two ...and then it goes. What is causing that delay or catch? I've asked someone today and they said it might be the slip yoke. I hope it's not the transmission.

Question 2
I've got an toddler and an infant. I'm cool with using the toddler in the shoulder strap seat belt, but there aren't any latch anchors for the infant seat. I've read some posts on installing the anchors by drilling new holes, but I was wondering if I could use the existing bolts that hold the seal belts under the seats when you lift up the bottom seats and putting an anchor on that. If so, can anyone recommend an anchor that they have used?

Thanks for your help!
 
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As far as question 1 goes, you're probably low on ATF. If the torque converter does not fill with ATF, your engine will rev until it's capable of transferring torque.

Double check your fluid levels
 
best way to clean tranny is to pull the pan, flushing it will only do more damage in the future since our trucks are old.
 
I had a trans flush/fluid exchange and added some Lucas trans additive on my 185k mile 97 and it's ****s awesome. I also pull a 2500lbs boat all the time.
 
t4r4life said:
do not flush!
Click to expand...

+1

Do a drain and refill.

There have been a few cases that I have heard of where flushing the transmission caused more problems later on. Not everyone who flushed has had problems, but I wouldn't do it if there was even a slight chance of something going wrong.
 
finestlittlemexica said:
Hi all,


Question 2
I've got an toddler and an infant. I'm cool with using the toddler in the shoulder strap seat belt, but there aren't any latch anchors for the infant seat. I've read some posts on installing the anchors by drilling new holes, but I was wondering if I could use the existing bolts that hold the seal belts under the seats when you lift up the bottom seats and putting an anchor on that. If so, can anyone recommend an anchor that they have used?

Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...

Well everyone else is answering question 1, I'll answer question 2. You should never install lower latch anchors in a car. There is a reason that they don't make retrofitted anchors. Only a few model cars allow that which I believe is Volvo and and some audis. It's not safe to be making anchors, how would you feel about yourself if got in an accident and they failed. It's not a risk I would ever take with my kid. The seat belts in the 4runner will lock when you pull the seat belt all the way so install the infant seat with the shoulder belt the way the car seat recommends and then pull the seat belt out all the way and then when it retracts the seat belt will ratchet back and lock and then put all your weight on the base or car seat and pull the seat belt tight. The base/car seat should not be able to move more than an inch to each side.
 
I should have added that when it is driving on the roads or highways, the shifting doesn't miss a beat, so I don't know if that makes i the transmission or slip yoke.


cool. I'm going to have my mechanic check it out in the morning and if he recommends a transmission flush, I will ask him to do it since I don't have the space to do it now.

Man i love this forum! You guys are great! thanks for your input.
 
bootown said:
COB is right. You need to check the fluid level. I have had the exact same problem as you...slow to shift from a stop, but shifts fine after that. Found out my atf was 3 quarts low.
Click to expand...

for the 1997 4runner, v6 engine, what's the ATF fluid I should use? The manual says Dexron II or III. Where can I get that now or is there an equivalent?

I picked up Dexron/Mercon 75,000+ miles from O'Reilly's, but I'm not sure this is right.
 
it's so weird. I drove it around for 10 minutes. checked the transmission dipstick and it was hovering around hot and the fluid was red (not dark or smelling burnt).

So i didn't add any ATF in it tonight.

It drove just fine this time. The only thing I noticed was around 30 mph, it took a little longer to shift to the next gear....

I wonder why it's intermittent.
 
maybe the reason you are experiencing problems is the same reason the previous owner let it sit for a year with little driving... just a though, i would say flush the system, sure some on here say DONT DO IT... bur really its only happened a small percentage of the time when you think of the number of times people do the flush(at the dealer and other independent shops as well as lube shops) and dont have issues. if you are concerned that a flush will hurt your trans then in like 500miles drain the pan and drop it, inspect it, clean it if needed(doubtful) and change the filter. and call it good. my trans has been flushed a few times, and has never had any ill effects.

our trucks do have anchor in the back for tying cargo in/down and they can be use for car seats as well. i have two small kids and i use them with out hesitation. they are at the base of the rear seats in the cargo area next to the fender wells. if you dont see them, they are probably under the cargo mat or carpeting.
 
the kid said:
our trucks do have anchor in the back for tying cargo in/down and they can be use for car seats as well. i have two small kids and i use them with out hesitation. they are at the base of the rear seats in the cargo area next to the fender wells. if you dont see them, they are probably under the cargo mat or carpeting.
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yeah thats for the top tethers. i believe the original poster was talking about the lower latches that are between the seats of the car, where the seat belt buckles are at. some 2001, and all cars manufactured since 2002 come with lower latches. so that would be like 2003 model year cars. so i dont believe any 3rd gen 4runners have the lower latches.
 
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^^^^What he said. If the vehicle doesn't have a factory latch system, I wouldn't do it. That system of fastening a car seat is OPTIONAL, and I'd rather use the shoulder belt with the metal clip that comes with the car seat if the vehicle doesn't have the anchors. Not worth the consequences if it fails to operate the way it was intended.
 
Thanks all!
My mechanic just looked at it and thinks that it could need a tranny flush, but I'm going to hold off for now since it apparently is driving ok. I would just hate for it to not work for my wife when I hand it over to her.
 
well...a mechanic is tell me that these need to be replaced
bearings (rear axle) both sides
inner outer seals
abs rings and retainers and shoes

oil leaked to brakes

does this sound what's causing the issue i'm having with the stop and then popping into gear?

what does it costs to get those things replaced?
 
you are having two totally different issues here, one is the first issue you mentioned about the tranny lagg or slip, and this is rear axle seals, and you dont need to replace your ABS ring and all that other crap like brake shoes, just clean them out good with brake clean and or a parts cleaner or soak them in gasoline for a night, then let them dry out they should be good. this "mechanic" is trying to get you to give him things to do...
 
finestlittlemexica said:
well...a mechanic is tell me that these need to be replaced
bearings (rear axle) both sides
inner outer seals
abs rings and retainers and shoes

oil leaked to brakes

does this sound what's causing the issue i'm having with the stop and then popping into gear?

what does it costs to get those things replaced?
Click to expand...

You could have your rear brakes locking when coming to a stop because of the gear oil leak onto the pads. This would cause you have to rev the engine a little to pop them loose. This could be your issue with the hesitant starts.

You only need to replace the 1 seal on each side to fix the oil leak, not both seal, rings and retainers. Technically you should replace the bearings if oil has been leaking for a while, but that is a much bigger job and I would put it off if you can. One guy here managed to repack his bearings without removing any of the rings. If you are up for the job, you could give that a shot as long as the bearings aren't already damaged. That is what I would do (in fact I plan on doing that soon).

and x2 on what people have said about not installing your own anchors. Use the car seat as intended by the manufacturer. If your car seat is not designed to use the shoulder seat belt like you have the rear side seats, then get a different car seat.

It is VERY common for people to install car seats wrong and it really does somewhat defeat the purpose of using a car seat. Do it right, don't skimp on this.
 
Nelsonmd said:
You could have your rear brakes locking when coming to a stop because of the gear oil leak onto the pads. This would cause you have to rev the engine a little to pop them loose. This could be your issue with the hesitant starts.
Click to expand...

how could gear oil cause the breaks to stick that bad? if anything i would think it would make them have less resistance. i know that grease can have a surface tension and holding power, but i dont think that it is enough to be noticeable and hold back our trucks even momentarily
 
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