Just hit 150k time for some maintenance

foxrider56

New member
well im at the 150k mark now and i figure i might as well do some things over spring break now its just what i need to do. so i know the obvious is the lower ball joints because ive seen numerous threads on them but what else?
- ive seen somewhere the inner and outter tie rod ends?
- tranny cooler? or just a new radiator?
- i think i need a new alternator since it whines and its not the belts
i really just want to treat her right so she will treat me right for many years to come so im trying to find out what you all recomend and hopefully an idea at what the cost will be since that is always important.
so any help is always appreciated! thanks !
 
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well im at the 150k mark now and i figure i might as well do some things over spring break now its just what i need to do. so i know the obvious is the lower ball joints because ive seen numerous threads on them but what else?
- ive seen somewhere the inner and outter tie rod ends?
- tranny cooler? or just a new radiator?
- i think i need a new alternator since it whines and its not the belts
i really just want to treat her right so she will treat me right for many years to come so im trying to find out what you all recomend and hopefully an idea at what the cost will be since that is always important.
so any help is always appreciated! thanks !

At about 165K I replaced the radiator. I understand why people install the trans cooler, but that doesn't change the fact that your radiator has 100+ thousand miles on it. I got an OEM Toyota one (I was disappointed it was not made in Japan), but you can get a Koyo replacement for less than $200, and they were the OEM for the factory radiator.

If your alternator is whining, just get a new one (if you are sure that it is the alternator, and not something else). They are cheap enough, and if I remember correctly, you can rebuild your old one. I had to swap mine out a few years ago because it was whining a bit as well, and it was no big deal. Again, I bought an OEM Toyota one, but you can get one from NSA as well (it is a company, not the government agency...lol). My dad installed one on his T-100, and it worked perfectly for years before he sold that truck.

I can't comment on tie rods/ball joints, as I have not personally replaced them on my truck (I have checked them thoroughly, and they are good, which is likely due the fact that my truck rarely sees a lick of dirt). I know lower ball joints are a highly recommended replacement item and are a huge safety issue.

Shocks (if you have not done them yet) are another good thing to do, as are suspension (sway bar) and steering rack bushings.

Fluids are another obvious maintenance item. I always use Mobil 1 Full Synthetic for my engine oil, Redline for all transmission and gear oils, Pentosin DOT4 brake fluid, and Toyota red coolant, and those have always worked out for me.

I don't think there are any other major maintenance items. I will add more if I think of any.
 
^^^^Good post. I'd just add fuel filter and the often neglected PCV valve. Toyota says fuel filter is lifetime but I think 150k IS lifetime for them. The maintenance book stops at 120k. You also need to be sure the timing belt and water pump have been done. If they haven't been done, at this age and mileage you also want to do both idlers, thermostat, rad hoses, aux. belts and the top and bottom rad hoses.

I feel any decent GL-5 is OK for TC and diffs, but if you want to use Redline it won't hurt anything other than your wallet. I prefer to spend less on each change and then change more often.

Please try and rebuild that alt. if it needs it. Factory Denso's are far better than re-mans/aftermarket.
 
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^^^^Good post. I'd just add fuel filter and the often neglected PCV valve. Toyota says fuel filter is lifetime but I think 150k IS lifetime for them. The maintenance book stops at 120k. You also need to be sure the timing belt and water pump have been done. If they haven't been done, at this age and mileage you also want to do both idlers, thermostat, rad hoses, aux. belts and the top and bottom rad hoses.

I feel any decent GL-5 is OK for TC and diffs, but if you want to use Redline it won't hurt anything other than your wallet. I prefer to spend less on each change and then change more often.

Please try and rebuild that alt. if it needs it. Factory Denso's are far better than re-mans/aftermarket.

Definitely the fuel filter and PCV valve; I over-maintain my truck and change the fuel filter every few years, and have never had a fuel problem at all. I also replaced the PCV on my truck fairly recently; the old one was still fine, but I figured, at $7 for the OEM piece, why not. Make sure to get the one from the dealer, though, because the aftermarket ones are plastic and can snap.

I forgot about timing belt and water pump (I have a 3RZ 4cyl, so I have a timing chain that lasts far longer than the belt), but if you're due for those, definitely do that as well.

Lots of rubber hoses will need to be replaced at this mileage; I just spent nearly $100 in misc. vacuum lines this past week as I found numerous rotten ones while installing my turbo. I also did my radiator hoses within the last couple years, and they definitely needed replacement as well; the belts I do every few years, as they are pretty cheap and replacing them proactively is insurance for me.

My dad had to do a T-stat on his T-100; not a big deal, and again, cheap insurance. I have not touched idlers on my engine, and I know my friend with a Tacoma (5VZ engine) has not either and neither of us have had any issues. If they are relatively inexpensive, though, you might as well do those too while you have the truck apart.

If you have the intake off, you might want to clean the throttle body and mass air flow sensor as well. Also, check the throttle and trans kickdown cables, and adjust them if there is too much slack. That definitely needed to be done on my truck, as the throttle cable stretched after so many miles. Replace your air filter while you are at it, if necessary.

All of these things should keep you busy while you're on break. Good luck!
 
LBJ's!!! Failure can destroy our vehicles. OEM only, NOT Moog or anything else, replace the bolts as well and use Blue Loctite. Can't go wrong w/ a new radiator AND B&M 70264 cooler.
 
LBJ's!!! Failure can destroy our vehicles. OEM only, NOT Moog or anything else, replace the bolts as well and use Blue Loctite. Can't go wrong w/ a new radiator AND B&M 70264 cooler.

Can anybody tell me how to check my LBJs and what specifically to look for? We bought our 4Runner at 100k and has 140k on it now.

Thanks.
 
so are tie rod ends not that big of a concern right now? because i see this list getting pricey pretty quick

Mine were fine, but I don't wheel at all. If you do, you might want to add those to the list. I'm sure others will chime in with their experience.
 

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