Just the beginning

Thats why we post to assist in motivation and procedure.

I hope to have the front end done by the first week of December. I went to renew my registration today and found out I need a smog. Now i have to put on all the stock resonators and get new intake boots and EVAP hoses just to pass the visual :redbrick: I am very confident it would pass emissions, what a waist of time and money.
 
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I think you & i used the same pressure cleaner !! Man you take great pics !! Again, really loving your ride !!! :cheers:
 
GT Grabber AT's

I searched high and low for the best deal and this is what I came up with
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...GRAT2OWL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes
I got them today $570 shipped should be here by Wednesday. I though I would share I don't know how long the deal is going. I plan on getting all of my front end bushings done this weekend then align and new tire install. Then Cleghorn or North Main Divide, but I noticed they have that marked closed now.
 
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Those look nice, they look like the BF Goodrich's on the T4R. That's a pretty good price too, i just paid $525 for 4) 31 x 10.50s from a local shop i barter with, mounted & out the door. I believe that was his cost or close to it. They are Sailun brand.
 
I have heard that BFG had gotten bought out by Michelin and have had some quality issues. Originally I was going to get BFG AT's but I was since deterred by many recent review's of bubbling sidewalls and belts breaking on the freeway. I have only bought BFG's every time I have bought tires until now.
 
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Gotta all the parts to tighten up my steering. Along with my ES poly A-arm bushings she should ride like new. Hoping for a break in the rain to get it all done this weekend.
 
Front End Steering and Suspension Part 1

So to start this front end rebuild you will first need all the replacement parts. I bought what I could from Napa(I get a nice discount there) the rest from Energy Suspensions.
All control arm Bushings
Energy Suspension 8.3108 Front Control Arm Bushings Made by Energy Suspension
Energy Suspension 8.3107 Rear Control Arm Bushings Made by Energy Suspension
Steering can also be from Energy Suspension
MOOG MOOG-K80536 Idler Arm Made by MOOG
MOOG MOOG-ES2369S Front Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve Made by MOOG
MOOG MOOG-ES3192 Front Inner Tie Rod End Made by MOOG
MOOG MOOG-ES2376 Front Outer Tie Rod End Made by MOOG
Tools needed to perform the task at hand:
1/2 Breaker Bar
Large Pry Bar
Impact 1/2 drive (Air or Electric)
Impact sockets specifically 17, 19, 22, 24mm
Favorite 3/8 drive ratchet
3/8 drive 10, 12, 14, 17, 19mm Sockets
Floor Jack
Tall Jack stands
Balljoint/tie rod Puller
Bench Vise
Electric drill w/ wire wheel attachment
Torch Map or Propane
Rubber mallet
Favorite BFH
Grease gun
Fresh Red rags(chances are this is going to be greasy)
Grease
Small tie down straps
Various Punches
Torque Wrench that can go up to 200ft lbs

Execution
Jack up the front end high enough to have both tire off the ground and place stands under the frame near the front of the front doors, allowing for enough room to comfortably access are suspension hardware and Torsion bar adjustment.
Remove the wheels to access necessary hardware.
Next Remove the front skid plate. Then mark you Lower Control Arm Cam washers with an Awl (in efforts to put it as close to aligned as possible so you can drive it to the alignment shop when you are done)
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Then procede to remove all the steering linkage with Tie rod puller. NOT A PICKLE FORK. The right tool is much faster and easier just FYI
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Once both assemblies are removed place the drivers side on the the drives side of the truck and the Passenger side on the passenger side and do not mix them up!
Next remove sway-bar linkage(or the entire sway-bar)
I removed the steering knuckle and Brake caliper to allow more range of motion on the hubs without stretching out the brake line. I strapped the Caliper to the Sway-Bar(if still attached if not strap to the fram)
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Front End Steering and Suspension Part 2

We started with the lower arms as they seemed easier then the top with the torsion bars.
First we disconnected the lower shock mount then used the puller on the LBJ's. The lower A-Arm bolts are welded to the adjustment Cam washer, do not hit them with the impact. The nuts are facing outward and the bolt heads are facing inward on the arm. Remove bolts and keep them separate front and rear(as they have been marked) then use your rubber mallet to knock them out of the frame.
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Not using stock rubber bushing and upgrading to poly ones means using some of the stock parts in conjunction with new. You reuse both the outer and inner metal sleeves.
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So what was the easiest/funnest way to remove old rotten rubber? :flamethrwoer2:
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After much fun with fire the inner sleeves practically push themselves out. We used a large long flathead to scape as much of the big mulcting rubber pieces before a hose down and wire wheel.
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Repeat for Passenger side. We did one arm at a time just to make sure we got everything done correctly(this was a learning experience neither have done this before)
As the Driffter33 manned the wire wheeling I continued on the steering starting with installing a new Idler arm
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Simple three 17mm bolts holding it on. After I removed the old on I cleaned the frame before installing the new one to ensure a perfect mounting surface.
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Front End Steering and Suspension Part 3

The front Arms revealed the mystery clunk I have been looking for since I got my T4R.
For the Uppers start with removing the tension from the torsion bars. The adjustment bolt is located in the middle of the front door on the inside of the frame rails, it is a 22mm or 7/8. I was counting the turns on the removal until I got to 48 and realized that the nut was spinning on the top. So I just zapped it the rest of the way off with the E-impact.
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Next remove the torsion bar A-arm mounting bolts from the rear of the arm. 2x 19mm
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Then you can pull the torsion bar back and out of the way for upper arm removal. Next get out the breaker bar and 19mm socket. Remove the three upper arm mount bolts and fish the arm out the wheel well.
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Once removed use your impact and 24mm socket to remove the nuts from both ends. Todo so mount the arm in the vive holding onto the center shaft, IT WILL SPINN.
This was my Passenger side upper arm. As you can see the bushings is swollen from my P/S pump leak next on the todo list.
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This one was my driver side upper. Nice gap on this one just over 242,000 miles on it.
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Next get the torch back out and burn out the old rubber bushings. While Driffter33 was cleaning up the sleeves I continued on the steering putting together the new Inner, Outter and tie-rods with new sleeves. I hit all the threads with Anti seize when I bought them months ago. I left the old one's together and measured them and set the new ones to the same length. Still keeping the left and right sides separate.
For the reinstallation of every thing with threads we applied a thin layer of grease to as well as anything that moves or pivots. Bushings, sleeves and all moving parts of the torsion bar adjuster.
Finally Torque everything to spec:
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To finish this project take a epic photo during the "golden hour" of your tuck still apart and the t4r of your accomplice.
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The green beast in the back is [MENTION=50502]driffter33[/MENTION] I meet him thought a different means then Automotive and he turned me onto T4R. He has a build thread on here some where I will see if I can find it or get him to post it up.

I will do my write up on the front end this afternoon. It should help anyone looking to do the same from any "DOH!" moments.
 
Check the last line of my signature for link to my build thread. Cheers!
Glad that suspension didn't fall apart on the drive home! ;):eek:

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