JWaldz Rear 8" Full Float Elocker Diamond Axle Build & BS

Update

Got the axle back from powder and my, oh my, is it pretty! I figured why not have it stand out, so I went with a Black/Silver hammertone.

All parts have been ordered now and just playing the waiting game. Aiming for mid December completion. Will document as I go.

20161129_074030_zps3vfdjdwd.jpg~original


20161129_074036_zpstsljswfi.jpg~original


Looks bad ass!

My Diamond E locker FF uses D44 chevy hubs and brakes. I will be rebuilding to use Brian's Drotor FF setup with the IFS hubs and 03+ T4R brakes, I want a parking brake again. Which means cutting off my D44 flanges and welding on Toyota flanges.

I bought a Ballistic fab Tcase parking brake and made a couple changes to work better with my truck. It holds it but the caliper is a cheap go-cart caliper and as the pads wear it goes out of adjustment and rattles going down the road.
 

I thought they were only good up until '95?

Only good for 95 and under.

Not to mention that these will instantly fail you on a safety inspection. Luckily he's in Colorado so that doesn't matter.

It wont work for our rigs.

Taken from their website:
"It fits 84-95 gear drive 4cyl transfer case equipped pickups and 4Runners (V6 and automatic applications are not available)"

I've already discussed this with a few people. Would love for it to work but theirs just no way. The rotor would be too large to fit anyways.

Looks bad ass!

My Diamond E locker FF uses D44 chevy hubs and brakes. I will be rebuilding to use Brian's Drotor FF setup with the IFS hubs and 03+ T4R brakes, I want a parking brake again. Which means cutting off my D44 flanges and welding on Toyota flanges.

I bought a Ballistic fab Tcase parking brake and made a couple changes to work better with my truck. It holds it but the caliper is a cheap go-cart caliper and as the pads wear it goes out of adjustment and rattles going down the road.

Thanks man! I wanted to go with the Drotor setup but after talking to him about everything I wasn't about to drop that kind of coinage haha. Plus, the setup I'm using will not only be super simple to work on (yet super strong), all the parts will be interchangeable with the front axle once I do a sas with the same axle size and outers. Only real difference then would be knuckles and steering. I'll be using some sort of line lock for temp "emergency" braking. I can't think of the last time I actually used me ebrake anyways lol. ABS isn't an issue cus I have it disabled anyways. The ABS on these trucks suck when lifted with bigger tires, and it has tried to kill me multiple times. So pulled the fuse lol.

Look forward to seeing the Drotor setup. Would love to see pics of your build process.
 
It wont work for our rigs.

Taken from their website:
"It fits 84-95 gear drive 4cyl transfer case equipped pickups and 4Runners (V6 and automatic applications are not available)"

I've already discussed this with a few people. Would love for it to work but theirs just no way. The rotor would be too large to fit anyways.

By any chance have you contacted TSM Manufacturing? If you're considering a tcase mounted brake they should be able to one for you. They're also looked in Colorado. Link
 
By any chance have you contacted TSM Manufacturing? If you're considering a tcase mounted brake they should be able to one for you. They're also looked in Colorado. Link

Thanks for the tip, just sent them an email. I'm like 30 min away from them :D

Brian has a kit for a parking brake w/ rear disk.

Drotor Brake Upgrade Kit - Front Range Off-Road Fabrication

Seen it, debated it.. But wasn't wanting to dish out the price tag for it all.
 
Thanks man! I wanted to go with the Drotor setup but after talking to him about everything I wasn't about to drop that kind of coinage haha. Plus, the setup I'm using will not only be super simple to work on (yet super strong), all the parts will be interchangeable with the front axle once I do a sas with the same axle size and outers. Only real difference then would be knuckles and steering. I'll be using some sort of line lock for temp "emergency" braking. I can't think of the last time I actually used me ebrake anyways lol. ABS isn't an issue cus I have it disabled anyways. The ABS on these trucks suck when lifted with bigger tires, and it has tried to kill me multiple times. So pulled the fuse lol.

Look forward to seeing the Drotor setup. Would love to see pics of your build process.

I spent the $$$ years ago on my axle (used) so the coin to get better disc's and a parking brake is worth it to me. I guess I should start a build thread on TW. But before that I need to swap my wrecked Dcab and bed onto my extra cab frame. Both my trucks don't have ABS, not sure how that worked out, maybe because they are both old man Tan.
 
I spent the $$$ years ago on my axle (used) so the coin to get better disc's and a parking brake is worth it to me. I guess I should start a build thread on TW. But before that I need to swap my wrecked Dcab and bed onto my extra cab frame. Both my trucks don't have ABS, not sure how that worked out, maybe because they are both old man Tan.

I had a window for my budget and the Drotor setup would have been a 'tad' out of that haha.

I just put 2 and 2 together about who you are. You redid my sway aways about this time last year. I remember your diamond axle now. I just didn't ask you much about it then, other than the fact you have threaded body coilovers without the coils for shocks lol. Not sure I had planned to run a diamond at that time or I would have asked you more about it. Didn't you buy it used?
 
I had a window for my budget and the Drotor setup would have been a 'tad' out of that haha.

I just put 2 and 2 together about who you are. You redid my sway aways about this time last year. I remember your diamond axle now. I just didn't ask you much about it then, other than the fact you have threaded body coilovers without the coils for shocks lol. Not sure I had planned to run a diamond at that time or I would have asked you more about it. Didn't you buy it used?

That's me!

I bought from a SAS tacoma guy who put the D44 flanges and FF hubs on it, then went with ton's. It has it's quirks but all that is from the FF conversation on Diamond semi float housing nothing Brian did.

Nothing wrong with running threaded bodies without the coil hardware. A buddy has a HEAVY (7500lbs) TTB prerunner bronco that has rear leafs and after the cage and gear he just added coils to his threaded bodies to help with the heft till he decides to link it.
 
It wont work for our rigs.

Taken from their website:
"It fits 84-95 gear drive 4cyl transfer case equipped pickups and 4Runners (V6 and automatic applications are not available)"

I've already discussed this with a few people. Would love for it to work but theirs just no way. The rotor would be too large to fit anyways.



Thanks man! I wanted to go with the Drotor setup but after talking to him about everything I wasn't about to drop that kind of coinage haha. Plus, the setup I'm using will not only be super simple to work on (yet super strong), all the parts will be interchangeable with the front axle once I do a sas with the same axle size and outers. Only real difference then would be knuckles and steering. I'll be using some sort of line lock for temp "emergency" braking. I can't think of the last time I actually used me ebrake anyways lol. ABS isn't an issue cus I have it disabled anyways. The ABS on these trucks suck when lifted with bigger tires, and it has tried to kill me multiple times. So pulled the fuse lol.

Look forward to seeing the Drotor setup. Would love to see pics of your build process.

Anything can be done with some work! What about this? http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/106636-rear-disk-brake-conversion-pt-1-a.html
 
Don't see how this helps me though. This rear axle is full float and already has brackets for disk brakes. I'm running fj60 rotors and early IFS v6 calipers.

So take some measurements off the rotor and find another caliper that has a provision for an e-brake. Ya, you'll likely have to make a new bracket to hold the caliper....
 
Don't see how this helps me though. This rear axle is full float and already has brackets for disk brakes. I'm running fj60 rotors and early IFS v6 calipers.

I'm getting ready to put FROR's full float on that same axle. Brian suggested that I just swap the adapters side to side and weld on my caliper mount. or you would cut the ears off. Honestly the mounting bracket was not hard to build originally and should not be hard to mod for welding up on the adapter, thus eliminating the washers for spacing.
 
I'm getting ready to put FROR's full float on that same axle. Brian suggested that I just swap the adapters side to side and weld on my caliper mount. or you would cut the ears off. Honestly the mounting bracket was not hard to build originally and should not be hard to mod for welding up on the adapter, thus eliminating the washers for spacing.

Isn't FROR's kit pretty spendy? I just keep thinking if I really feel like I need FF, I'm better off building a 1T rearend.....IIRC, I only have about $1200 in my 35 spline rear FF 60 with discs, gears and a full chromoly spool...obviously, a locker would add $400 or so onto the price.
 
Isn't FROR's kit pretty spendy? I just keep thinking if I really feel like I need FF, I'm better off building a 1T rearend.....IIRC, I only have about $1200 in my 35 spline rear FF 60 with discs, gears and a full chromoly spool...obviously, a locker would add $400 or so onto the price.

That or a LandCruiser axle if you'd like the keep the Totota flavor... I've been really tempted to try that too.

I already have a 4th gen 4Runner axle sitting in my backyard, waiting for the disc brake swap. Or I may just swap the whole axle... Still pondering.
 
That or a LandCruiser axle if you'd like the keep the Totota flavor... I've been really tempted to try that too.

I already have a 4th gen 4Runner axle sitting in my backyard, waiting for the disc brake swap. Or I may just swap the whole axle... Still pondering.

Good point...if the 63" width will work for you, then the TLC axle is a great bet.
 
Isn't FROR's kit pretty spendy? I just keep thinking if I really feel like I need FF, I'm better off building a 1T rearend.....IIRC, I only have about $1200 in my 35 spline rear FF 60 with discs, gears and a full chromoly spool...obviously, a locker would add $400 or so onto the price.

Seems like I paid 650 for the kit but that included the axle shafts and everything I needed. Now I already had my brake setup and an extra set of hubs laying around, and obviously my 3rd member with ARB and gears. Now if I had to source everything then the cost gets a lot closer to what you have into your axle. honestly my fear is that I will come to a point like [MENTION=67615]Dirtco[/MENTION] and have to replace the housing if it bends. One of the reasons I haven't trussed this housing. It seems like a new housing will be inevitable down the road.
 
So take some measurements off the rotor and find another caliper that has a provision for an e-brake. Ya, you'll likely have to make a new bracket to hold the caliper....

Well, I could but I just want to get this project over with lol.

That or a LandCruiser axle if you'd like the keep the Totota flavor... I've been really tempted to try that too.

It's doable. The pumpkin being off centered adds some angle to the ds though. Not only that, you'll have to strip it all and weld new bracketry. I debated a centered rear LC from diamond. But after researching cost of a new 3rd, regeared to 4.88s (to match front), and locked with ARB (cus the lc80 elockers were riddled with issues) I was WAY over budget.

honestly my fear is that I will come to a point like [MENTION=67615]Dirtco[/MENTION] and have to replace the housing if it bends. One of the reasons I haven't trussed this housing. It seems like a new housing will be inevitable down the road.

Exactly why I decided not to go with the FF conversion kit. If you bend the housing, you will definitely know about it with the tight tolerances required for the kit.
 
Exactly why I decided not to go with the FF conversion kit. If you bend the housing, you will definitely know about it with the tight tolerances required for the kit.

It's an intermediate step for me LOL. $500 previously in Brakes, $650 for Full Float now and $450 later for housing. Easier to sell to the wife in smaller chunks. But if I could have dropped $1500 all at once I would have gone a different route. And that is considering that I already have $1200 plus in my ARB 3rd with new gears. Sigh.. Should have just saved up and done it all at once. :hiding: man I have never added it up like that before!
 
It's an intermediate step for me LOL. $500 previously in Brakes, $650 for Full Float now and $450 later for housing. Easier to sell to the wife in smaller chunks. But if I could have dropped $1500 all at once I would have gone a different route. And that is considering that I already have $1200 plus in my ARB 3rd with new gears. Sigh.. Should have just saved up and done it all at once. :hiding: man I have never added it up like that before!

It's hard to justify spending the money when you add everything together haha. It's even harder to save up for it all in one go! The housing is expensive enough. Then you have to add up the cost of all the components you need to finish it. I tried to save where I could, but almost everything on this project is OEM and/or new. Gotta pay to play!
 

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