kayaks on factory TE rack
- Thread starter rocket67
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What type of crosswinds might you encounter or speed will you be traveling? I would be concerned about the short distance between crossbars and that the canoes might be susceptible to movement. I have two 20+ foot outrigger canoes (20 lb. each) that I carry. I use a Yakima Dry Dock and a crossbar mounted over the front door to carry them. However, the OCs are only 15-16" wide, where your kayaks might be a good bit wider.
STLDAVE
Member
I tried the factory crossbars and didn't like the way they flexed with two sea kayaks (also 17 footers). I ended up with the THULE Complete Crossroads Railing Rack with feet. They are much more solid that the factory bars. They can also be set farther apart which adds to the stability. I couldn't be happier.
rocket67
New member
That's what I was thinking would happen. These have to be secure. Sometimes
for 8hrs worth of hwy speed driving. What saddles are you using? I currently
Have the 'J' style thule carriers. I know that when I tried to carry
two kayaks on my taco factory rack it would make alot of noise. Wished
Toyota made the factory stuff actually functional.
For any sort of distance at highway speeds, you're going to want a good Thule or Yakima set-up. I am looking for Yakima Railgrabs for the TE rack now myself. I'd also recommend the saddles over the J-racks, much more secure and stable, IMO. But you might need wide(r) bars, depending on your boat widths.
I had Thule gear at one point, and then switched to Yakima on my next car, b/c Thule didn't support it. I'll probably stick with Yakima on the 4R, just b/c I already own long & short bars, a basket, a fairing, etc.
If I was starting over, with no investment, I'd go Thule all the way. I just find that I prefer their stuff across the board. Plus I like the square bars over the round. I also like the looks of the Crossroad better than the Railgrab on the TE. Just an opinion, FWIW.
RandyDaytona
New member
I also often carry two big boats - a 15.5-foot sit on top (50 lbs) and a 16.5-foot folding kayak (wood frame with a hypalon skin - about 70 lbs).
It wasn't necessarily the weight, but the width of the boats that made me opt for a trailer. I was never that confident in the J-cradles on the roof and it did tend to make more noise with both boats angled up on their sides.
So I bought a utility trailer with wooden sides, set up my Thule crossbars on it, and use the J-cradles there (where I can't hear any noise, anyway). Beats lifting heavy boats, too.
Otherwise, if I'm paddling alone, I'll use standard saddles on the roof via the Thule bars.
All that said, though, if your 17-foot boats are not too beamy, you could always get some longer bars and might be able to carry them flat. My fat ass needs something wider than sleek little Greenland-style boats that only skinny people can paddle
It wasn't necessarily the weight, but the width of the boats that made me opt for a trailer. I was never that confident in the J-cradles on the roof and it did tend to make more noise with both boats angled up on their sides.
So I bought a utility trailer with wooden sides, set up my Thule crossbars on it, and use the J-cradles there (where I can't hear any noise, anyway). Beats lifting heavy boats, too.
Otherwise, if I'm paddling alone, I'll use standard saddles on the roof via the Thule bars.
All that said, though, if your 17-foot boats are not too beamy, you could always get some longer bars and might be able to carry them flat. My fat ass needs something wider than sleek little Greenland-style boats that only skinny people can paddle
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STLDAVE
Member
I also tried the Yakima Railgrabs since I already had Yakima bars and the Mako Saddles, but I wasn't comfortable with how they fit the TE rails. The TE rails have some side-to-side flex, and with the Railgrab design, I didn't trust it to hold to the rails, hence the Thule bars. The design of the Thules mounts help stabilize the rails too.
Luckily, the Mako Saddles also fit the Thule bars, so I didn't have to replace them. Yakima's snap arounds have a couple of pieces you can pop out to make them fit the Thule crossbars.
Tie the bows together to prevent them from trying to spread and you can drive the interstates all day with no worries.
If you are going to use saddles (highly recommended) get the 58" crossbars for two kayaks. The "45058 Complete Railing Carrier" kit comes with the railing feet, crossbars, and locks & keys.
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36bound
New member
Don't mean to sidetrack this thread, but MikeG, how does your 4R handle towing that A-Liner? We've got an A-liner Classic with the Offroad Package sitting in the garage waiting for our TE to be delivered to our dealer later this week. If you feel up to replying by pm, I'd appreciate hearing about your experience towing your A-liner with a 4.0L 4R.
RandyDaytona
New member
You might want to compare the prices of the rollers vs. the saddles and consider just getting two sets of saddles. The only time I used the rollers, I was loading a very light (30-40 lb.) boat onto the roof and it made wonder why I really needed them (since they're light enough to slide across the saddles, anyway).
Kraeken
New member
I have Thule crossbars on my trail, and use the Hull-A-Port Pros for my sea kayaks. They fold down when not in use. I recently made the trip from SC back to NYC with a brand new boat on the roof, zero problems. Two days ago I ended up having to put three 17' sea kayaks on the roof. I slid the two cradles to one side and put the third kayak upside down. Also zero problems. Just make sure your bow and stern are always tied down!
I have pics of my setup in my garage.
I have pics of my setup in my garage.
rocket67
New member
I did consider going full mako saddle but wondered if the rubber material would make it difficult to slide the boats into place. They are both 60lbs and 17'. I may have jumped the gun on selling my J styles but I think the saddles will be better for long distance travelling.
STLDAVE
Member
I've got Mako saddles both front and rear and have no problem with sliding kayaks into place. Both my kayaks are 17'+ and 60-65 lb. Prijons which are a high temp polyethlene. I don't think a composite kayak would be any different. The saddle material, while being flexible (so it conforms to the hull to some extend), it is still fairly hard so there's very little friction.
rocket67
New member
Full mako kit is it then .. I see the rollers eventually breaking or something. Thanks for the post.
STLDAVE
Member
I think you'll be happier that way and your boats will too. The problem with the rollers is the strap goes under the crossbar on both sides. When you tighten the straps they are pressing straight down on your boat, pressing the rollers upward into concentrated points on the hull. Over time this will deform a poly boat and I don't imagine it's very good for a composite boat either.
THe Mako Saddles actually grip around your boat, forming to the shape of the boat. It like holding a beer can in your hand. Your fingers wrap arround it and can hold it without damage, but put the can on its side and push down on it and you crush the can.
One more bit of advice, tie the bows together or they will try to spread apart like Spock's Vulcan hand greeting at highway speeds. If they do it will be like dragging a parachute behind you..
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934x4
New member
I use foam cradles on the stock rack and everthing holds just fine for me.
The only issue I have is with the rear hatch. Because of the spoiler, the door won't open more than a couple of feet before the spoiler contacts the kayak. I have to use the side doors to get in the back.
I also use homemade pads to stick on the front of the hood so the front tie-downs don't rub.
The only issue I have is with the rear hatch. Because of the spoiler, the door won't open more than a couple of feet before the spoiler contacts the kayak. I have to use the side doors to get in the back.
I also use homemade pads to stick on the front of the hood so the front tie-downs don't rub.
