KDSS to Standard Sway Bar Conversion?

[Angelo]

Has anyone attempted a KDSS to standard sway bar system on the 5th Gen? I've been reading about disabling or removing the KDSS / tacking up the hydraulics / etc. but have yet to find anyone attempting a conversion to an OEM (or other mfr) sway bar. Are the mounts the same?

Just curious.

 

[Dillusion]

I believe people had tied up the KDSS Pistons to stop them from working.

I don't know if anyone got as far as making another sway bar. I didn't get that far wouldn't of gotten KDSS if I wanted to get rid of it.


KDSS Removal

 

[Chris Walker]

Im currently deciding between KDSS and non-KDSS. I've heard nothing but good things about the system. Why are you/people attempting to disable it?

 

[rochmpr]

The mounts for KDSS and non-KDSS are different especially on the rear axle. It would take some fab work to potentially make it happen. There are now kit's for the Anti-Rock for the rear, which will take some work (welding) to install or more, depending on your set-up and bumpers.

For those looking to strap the piston, it's somewhere in my build thread. I did this several years ago in order to get the full effect of the LT rear suspension set-up. I have been running no sways since that time with-out issue. Just don't drive like an idiot or think you are in some rice rocket.

 

[Jetboy]

The frames of a KDSS and non-KDSS are different also. I don't know how or why, but the frame part numbers are not the shared between the two. The Limited, TRD Pro, Non KDSS TRD OR/Trail and SR5 models share one frame and the KDSS TRD-OR has its own frame part number. 2WD also has a different frame.

That said - I have no idea on whether the sway bar mounts are present on the KDSS frame. And as ^ rochmper said, the rear axle mounts are different as well.

Something like a curry antirock is probably the easiest non-KDSS sway bar to add, or you could swap rear axles for a non-KDSS housing.

The other alternative would be to consider having a custom sway bar made that retains KDSS but has lower torsion spring rate and/or longer arms for more travel.

 

[Thrasher_S]

Im currently deciding between KDSS and non-KDSS. I've heard nothing but good things about the system. Why are you/people attempting to disable it?

The only reasons I can think of are:
1) Increasing lift or suspension travel too much for the KDSS to handle (in which case, I'd consider selling and buying a non-KDSS...)
2) The system is malfunctioning outside of warranty coverage, and the owner doesn't want to pay to fix or have it fixed.

 

[Thrasher_S]

The only reasons I can think of are:
1) Increasing lift or suspension travel too much for the KDSS to handle (in which case, I'd consider selling and buying a non-KDSS...)
2) The system is malfunctioning outside of warranty coverage, and the owner doesn't want to pay to fix or have it fixed.

I love mine. I think KDSS gives me the best of both worlds. I may reevaluate if I was looking at a repair bill in the thousands, but it sounds like it could cost as much or more to delete.

 

[mscot]

I wish there was an easy way to get KDSS to disconnect up to 20 mph.

stress on the easy part.

 

[Bumbo]

Im currently deciding between KDSS and non-KDSS. I've heard nothing but good things about the system. Why are you/people attempting to disable it?

It just depends on your plans and how crazy you intend on getting with the suspension… there comes a point where things like this just start getting in the way. For most people, it’s a non-issue.

 

[mteolus]

I wish there was an easy way to get KDSS to disconnect up to 20 mph.

stress on the easy part.

Probably why the TRD Pro doesn't have KDSS as an option. I think the whole TRD Pro concept was desert running at speed.

 

[jhguth]

if you put the same rate sway bar and same springs/shocks it will feel the same at speed

but if you want an easy way to allow it to move at speed you can install a switch

 

[borfoo3]

It's called a trade-in...

You can disconnect the bars and tie up the Pistons.. just be careful not to loosen any of the hydraulic lines or loose pressure in the system.. that was a painful and $$ mistake .

I'd rather just leave it as is really. There's not much to gain unless you are going LT

 

[Mutant138]

if you put the same rate sway bar and same springs/shocks it will feel the same at speed

but if you want an easy way to allow it to move at speed you can install a switch

Haven't seen anyone with an actual switch. Only read rumors.

 

[jhguth]

Haven't seen anyone with an actual switch. Only read rumors.

people have unplugged it and it worked fine, a switch is no different just easier.

 

[Dillusion]

Curious how you just add a switch on a hydraulic system.

 

[jhguth]

Curious how you just add a switch on a hydraulic system.

KDSS has an ECU, it's a hydraulic system controlled electronically. The accumulator has a solenoid to allow the system to move or close to transfer force from front to rear

 

[sandcrawler]

Curious how you just add a switch on a hydraulic system.

because it's not just a hydraulic system; electronics are involved. there's a wiring harness via the KDSS stabilizer control/accumulator housing assembly.

 

[Dillusion]

because it's not just a hydraulic system; electronics are involved. there's a wiring harness via the KDSS stabilizer control/accumulator housing assembly.

KDSS has an ECU, it's a hydraulic system controlled electronically. The accumulator has a solenoid to allow the system to move or close to transfer force from front to rear

I understand that but is it the same as disconnecting? Technically still has fluid I know not controlled by anything with the switch.

 

[Jetboy]

I understand that but is it the same as disconnecting? Technically still has fluid I know not controlled by anything with the switch.

It's not really the same as disconnecting. The front/rear pistons are always floating in the sense that fluid may always flow between them in a master/slave configuration. However, when the valves are closed (over 12mph), the valves remove the accumulators from the circuits. So the two are very rigidly connected. When the accumulators are connected they add essentially a cushion between the actuation. So it's a lot softer connection. But it should still have a significant effect. It would not act like a disconnected sway bar. Just a softer sway bar set with the same cross linked forces.

Some of my past comments were factually wrong on this. I didn't correctly understand the valve position in the hydraulic circuit. For a long time I had thought that "closed" was actually closing flow front/rear. It's not. Closed is removing the accumulators from the circuit. So it's either very rigid connection front/rear or softer connection front/rear.

 

[Dillusion]

Learn something new everyday.