Key stuck in ignition, Computer Shift Lock Control help!

[Killer Squirrel]

Thanks for the photos and explanation! I just picked up my first 4R a few days ago and of course everything was fine when I test drove it. The next day I turn off the ignition and the key won't come out! My wife and I are sitting there thinking 'Oh great now what?!'. A quick search here and found this thread plus an easy solution. Thank you!

 

[4runnerflyer]

Hi guys. I have all the parts I need and was in the process of replacing the shift interlock switch. My problem should be simple. There are 2 wires that are connected to the old connector that must be removed and reinserted into the new connector. They are the blue/red wires. Normally you would use some type of extraction tool to bypass the locking tab to slide the wires out the back. I have tried and have had no luck. Is there a specific extraction tool for this connector? I can't find any help on this. Thanks. See the pictures for greater clarification.:shrug: I'd like to get this done, please help.

 

[kball]

Hard to tell from the pic exactly which tool it might take. Look up terminal tools like this set. Super price on Lisle - 57750 at ToolTopia.com

I use this set at work but I don't work on cars so it may or may not be what you need.

 

[4Reak Show]

There's normally a secondary lock to lock the tabs down. Sometimes a pull out piece, sometimes a slide-out piece. Post up 360 degree pics or confirm you got the secondary locking mechanism removed.

Then I'd just use a large safety pin, the sharp end. Push the electrical pin INWARD and then lift the locking tab, then pull the electrical out. Should just slide right out once you get it unlatched.

 

[LilGoat02]

SEE THIS

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/87168-cobikers-96-ltd-build-2.html

:hello:

I had the same symptoms in my 02, but mine ended up being the spring in the shifter causing my issue. We took the shifter as far apart as possible and worked it a bit and released a bunch of grit and grime. Once this was done, the spring in the thumb button at the top of the shifter worked normally and allowed the cylinder and hook to connect properly so I could get the key in the off position to be removed. Hope that helps someone else with the same issue.

 

[Brian.]

SEE THIS

Cobiker's 96 LTD build

:hello:

Bumping this just to add some details.

I had intermittent "key won't turn to 'OFF'" issues that kept the key from being removed and knew it wasn't a key/cylinder issue. That was proven by unplugging the shift interlock connector (I think that's what it controls, just forwards of the 4WD arm, smaller of the 2 white electrical connectors) which allowed the key to be removed.

Problem was that with it unplugged, I couldn't then Start the vehicle, it was locked in the OFF position until plugged in.... so the cheap-mans fix there was a failure.

The first "fix" I found was to replace the bushings, and that did seem to address the issue for a few drives, until today. Today I was running errands and had the issue crop up 7 times in a row as I made my various stops. I finally just left the trim pieces laying in the passenger footwell.... get home, search, find this thread (first that seemed appropriate for my issue, everyone seems to default to worn key/cylinder) and investigated. Indeed, that pin on the shifter was not catching the white plastic "hook". While playing with it, I realized that there was a tell-tale Feeling to this when shifting Out of park it took more than normal force to pull the shifter back. That's because the pin was resting on top of the very top of the white plastic hook, needing to Force it down to make it back into operational modes. Hopefully this will be something that helps others diagnose based on only a simple feeling.

I ended up using a small pry-bar to slightly bend the metal bracket closer to the shifter so there's more pin engagement. In testing this fix, I realized I still had another problem in that the white plastic part didn't like the depress all the way all of the time. So I pulled it apart and found that there are 2 electric bridges (spring metal), and one of mine had gotten loose and was resting on the bottom, keeping the slider from depressing. Put that back in place, hit the electrical contacts with some electrical cleaner and the plastic with some lithium (felt dry and raspy when sliding) and the next ~12 tests were 100% without failure.

Annoying little issue, reared its ugly head the very first time I tried to turn off the 4runner after buying it (but not 5 minutes later after I drove a little further). Hope it's completely resolved now... also hope this helps someone else shortcut the frustration of trying to diagnose/repair.

 

[Aaron8455]

I had a similar issue. I bought a 2000 4runner at an auction. I found that any 4runner key would start it but the key wouldn't turn to lock, it would only stay at ACC. I was also having an issue with the 4runner not going into park easily. I had to slam it into park for it to stay. I didn't realize it at the time but it was all related issues. I followed Cobiker's 96 LTD build as linked in the above thread. I found that the small rod on the shift lever wasn't grabbing the white hook on the right of the shifter. Also, my shifter was very loose, which was causing it not to go into park. A quick fix was buying the "Automatic Transmission shift bushing " from Toyota. I paid $1.80 each for them and placed them on the shifter linkage rod . I believe the part number was 3501G. that fixed the shifter from being loose, which also pushed the rod back straight to be able to grab the white hook, enabling the vehicle to go into park and release the key. I did change out the Ignition for a $16 ignition that I bought on amazon just for good measure.