Keyless ignition button will not turn green urgent
- Thread starter Dlak
- Start date
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jangoforhire
New member
I'm going to state the obvious, but hows the battery level in the Smart Key? Im assuming you have replaced it already? If not,
The manual states (If my memory serves me correctly) that when the battery in the smart key is low:
1. Put your foot on the brake
2. Touch the smart key to the ignition button with the toyota logo facing the button.
3. See if the light turns green.
4. Start the car!
The manual states (If my memory serves me correctly) that when the battery in the smart key is low:
1. Put your foot on the brake
2. Touch the smart key to the ignition button with the toyota logo facing the button.
3. See if the light turns green.
4. Start the car!
limamike
New member
Occam's Razor.
harper7
Senior Member
Do you have tools ? First ,disconnect the neg on the battery for at least 10 seconds to reset the ECU and see what happens.
I'll look in the repair manual for alternatives while you do that.
harper7
Senior Member
Probably a dead battery or in your case batteries.
Next to the last line"If the voltage is too low, the indicator will not illuminate."
Here's out of the manual for inspecting the switch .Let me know if you want the pics too.
INSPECTION
1. INSPECT ENGINE SWITCH
(a) Measure the resistance according to the value(s) in the table below.
Standard Resistance:
TESTER CONNECTION
SWITCH CONDITION
SPECIFIED CONDITION
7 (SS1) - 5 (GND)
Pushed
Below 1 Ω
Not pushed
10 kΩ or higher
2 (SS2) - 5 (GND)
Pushed
Below 1 Ω
Not pushed
10 kΩ or higher
Text in Illustration
*a
Component without harness connected
(Engine Switch)
If the result is not as specified, replace the engine switch.
(b) Apply battery voltage to the terminals of the switch and check the illumination condition of the switch.
Text in Illustration
*1
Indicator Light
-
-
*a
Component without harness connected
(Engine Switch)
-
-
OK:
MEASUREMENT CONDITION
SPECIFIED CONDITION
Battery positive (+) → terminal 11 (SWIL)
Battery negative (-) → terminal 5 (GND)
Illuminates (illumination of lettering)
Battery positive (+) → terminal 12 (INDS)
Battery negative (-) → terminal 5 (GND)
Illuminates (green)
Battery positive (+) → terminal 13 (INDW)
Battery negative (-) → terminal 5 (GND)
Illuminates (amber)
NOTICE:
If the positive (+) lead and negative (-) lead are incorrectly connected, the engine switch indicator will not illuminate.
If the voltage is too low, the indicator will not illuminate.
If the result is not as specified, replace the engine switch.
Next to the last line"If the voltage is too low, the indicator will not illuminate."
Here's out of the manual for inspecting the switch .Let me know if you want the pics too.
INSPECTION
1. INSPECT ENGINE SWITCH
(a) Measure the resistance according to the value(s) in the table below.
Standard Resistance:
TESTER CONNECTION
SWITCH CONDITION
SPECIFIED CONDITION
7 (SS1) - 5 (GND)
Pushed
Below 1 Ω
Not pushed
10 kΩ or higher
2 (SS2) - 5 (GND)
Pushed
Below 1 Ω
Not pushed
10 kΩ or higher
Text in Illustration
*a
Component without harness connected
(Engine Switch)
If the result is not as specified, replace the engine switch.
(b) Apply battery voltage to the terminals of the switch and check the illumination condition of the switch.
Text in Illustration
*1
Indicator Light
-
-
*a
Component without harness connected
(Engine Switch)
-
-
OK:
MEASUREMENT CONDITION
SPECIFIED CONDITION
Battery positive (+) → terminal 11 (SWIL)
Battery negative (-) → terminal 5 (GND)
Illuminates (illumination of lettering)
Battery positive (+) → terminal 12 (INDS)
Battery negative (-) → terminal 5 (GND)
Illuminates (green)
Battery positive (+) → terminal 13 (INDW)
Battery negative (-) → terminal 5 (GND)
Illuminates (amber)
NOTICE:
If the positive (+) lead and negative (-) lead are incorrectly connected, the engine switch indicator will not illuminate.
If the voltage is too low, the indicator will not illuminate.
If the result is not as specified, replace the engine switch.
Dlak
New member
I disconnected it for a half hour but still no reset, I also tried touching the key to the button and no green light. Thanks
harper7
Senior Member
Yea, I thought of that just after I turned off the computer. I was thinking about an older Nissan I have, it has the smart key, but it also has a "keyed" ignition slot on the steering column where you can use a mech. key. Other vehicles I have, smart key, smart button! Oh well, it's getting late.
Dlak
New member
Got towed 46 miles to Indio Toyota, they are going to pull out the dual batts and put a stock one to test since the voltage is really low even after a jump and if that doesn't work they are going to look at the alternator. Good times
FYI to force the vehicle to start if you have issues with the smart key
1. Push the start/stop button once for accessory power
2. Step on the brake
3. Hold down the start/stop button for at least 15 seconds while still holding the brake. Engine should start.
FYI to force the vehicle to start if you have issues with the smart key
1. Push the start/stop button once for accessory power
2. Step on the brake
3. Hold down the start/stop button for at least 15 seconds while still holding the brake. Engine should start.
snow&surf
New member
Thanks for the tip! Wish I won't ever need to do this. Hope your issues get resolved.
phillyd2
Senior Member
Did it start yours? I'm assuming they told you the procedure at the dealer AFTER being towed there.
Qjake
New member
That sucks Dlak sorry to hear you're having problems hopefully you get it all sorted out ASAP. Keep us updated on your progess.
Good luck!! :boink: :biggrin2:
azn-sensation
New member
Indio Toyota huh? Thats near my neck of the woods. Maybe I'll see you on the I-10. Keep us updated with the progress.
Dlak
New member
Yeah, they figured it was my battery system which I did not agree with. They ended up putting in a stock battery cleared 12 out of the 15 codes forced the truck on with the procedure on the other page and said well you can drive it home with my abs/traction/battery lights still on. I looked at the voltage readout in the dash and it was still well below normal but the mechanic said that the alternator is working since it is putting out 17 volts. By the time I got home the new battery was dead oh and that cost me $480 nice. So now the truck is sitting at home waiting to get towed to a local dealer Monday.
Dlak
New member
Those guys are idiots, the moment they saw the dual battery system the got lost. Basically this is what happened, when I got my light force lights installed the vendor wired the positive cable to the bolt that is in the fuse box in the engine campartment (The bolt in the upper right hand corner closest to the engine) the lights worked fine since then but I did experience some voltage fluctuation. A couple of weeks ago I decided to clean that up and install an auxilary fuse box so I disconnected that cable from the bolt in the stock fuse box to get it ready and eventually run everything to my blue sea fuse box. To make a long story short I never completed that project and at the Tierra del sol even decided to re-connect the cable to that bolt again. Tested the lights without turning the truck on and everything was fine. Came back to the truck to start it and the fun begins. (No green light on the start/stop button) and eventually it drained both my batteries. Something is obviously blown and I am hoping they don't tell me that they are going to have to rewire the whole truck!
And these guys charged me for 5 hours of labor and a new stock battery that drained completely after the 100 mile drive home. It did'nt look like they wanted to go further with the truck. They looked pretty intimidated, and also made sure and put "Highly modified vehicle" in the tech notes.
Don't know why I got charged but I will be looking into it for sure, I was just a bit drained and wanted to get home.
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