King shocks update!

[guitarsail]

Goodbye to the 6112/ 5160...

Hello this:

KING extended travel setup w/ adjusters
700lb coil front w/ superbumps bump stops + JBA UCAs
Rear Icon overland 3” coils w/ hydraulic bump stops

Truck flies over things now..

Looks sexy. 3" springs in the rear, Are there any threads showing on the coilovers on the front or do the 700lb springs give it extra lift without cranking up the coilover? Just curious how you are at such a level stance as I thought the highest King recommends in the front is 2.5". So curious how you got there. Love your height.

 

[mrblah]

Looks sexy. 3" springs in the rear, Are there any threads showing on the coilovers on the front or do the 700lb springs give it extra lift without cranking up the coilover? Just curious how you are at such a level stance as I thought the highest King recommends in the front is 2.5". So curious how you got there. Love your height.[/QUOT

He ordered his setup with the optional extended travel setup (internal spacer removed).

While Kings doesn't recommend lifting it over 2.5inches, they aren't saying you can't. I have mine set a little over 3 inches to compensate tire clearance, and the addition of weight.

 

[guitarsail]

He ordered his setup with the optional extended travel setup (internal spacer removed).

While Kings doesn't recommend lifting it over 2.5inches, they aren't saying you can't. I have mine set a little over 3 inches to compensate tire clearance, and the addition of weight.

I did know you could get the internal spacer removed, which is a no brainer. I'm just curious as the one picture showed no threads showing on the fronts, so I'm wondering if the 700lb springs provided all that additional lift, and what amount its at

 

[mrblah]

I did know you could get the internal spacer removed, which is a no brainer. I'm just curious as the one picture showed no threads showing on the fronts, so I'm wondering if the 700lb springs provided all that additional lift, and what amount its at

you are correct. The kings come from the factory with a 2.5 inch lift with the preload set at zero, so the additional lift is probably coming from the 700lb springs, or his springs haven't settled yet, or he doesn't have enough weight in the front/rear to settle the springs.

So if you want a 3 inch lift, you can do it either by getting stiffer/longer springs with the extended travel setup, or mess with your preload like I did. If I had to do it over again, I'd get stiffer springs, around 600 to 650. IMHO, 700 is too oversprung if you don't have alot of weight hanging off your front and rear.

Kings come stock with undersprung springs. I think mine are 550, which is great if you don't plan on adding weight. I wish I had gotten 600 or even 650 because of the armor I added.

 

[guitarsail]

you are correct. The kings come from the factory with a 2.5 inch lift with the preload set at zero, so the additional lift is probably coming from the 700lb springs, or his springs haven't settled yet, or he doesn't have enough weight in the front/rear to settle the springs.

So if you want a 3 inch lift, you can do it either by getting stiffer/longer springs with the extended travel setup, or mess with your preload like I did. If I had to do it over again, I'd get stiffer springs, around 600 to 650. IMHO, 700 is too oversprung if you don't have alot of weight hanging off your front and rear.

Kings come stock with undersprung springs. I think mine are 550, which is great if you don't plan on adding weight. I wish I had gotten 600 or even 650 because of the armor I added.

Copy, heres to hoping he chimes in. I want to run Dobinson 3" Variable Springs Rear, But dont want the rear to be too high. Also dont want to destroy my front CV's by going too high. I'm running full skids front to rear, and dual batteries in front so trying to decide if 600lb or 650 in the front will be best. No plans for front bumper but want to make sure nose dive is under control.

 

[Agent_Outside]

Does filthy give you diff drops?

There is no reason to run a diff drop, Toytec pushes them because they make them.

 

[borfoo3]

Copy, heres to hoping he chimes in. I want to run Dobinson 3" Variable Springs Rear, But dont want the rear to be too high. Also dont want to destroy my front CV's by going too high. I'm running full skids front to rear, and dual batteries in front so trying to decide if 600lb or 650 in the front will be best. No plans for front bumper but want to make sure nose dive is under control.

You guys figured it out lol.
I didn't need to crank the fronts at all (except a few threads on passenger side to fix the lean) so essentially my fronts are at the lowest setting height wise.

As for rears, the ICON 3" overland coil is a dual rate coil.. so with a constant load such as my bumper they end up closer to a 2.25" to 2.5" lift vs stock. You'll only get 3" rear lift from them on a stock 4Runner without any rear load.

So in the end I got lucky the stance turned out alnost perfect out of the box

Correction: I'm on 650lb springs up front.. added thread pics too

 

[guitarsail]

You guys figured it out lol.
I didn't need to crank the fronts at all (except a few threads on passenger side to fix the lean) so essentially my fronts are at the lowest setting height wise.

As for rears, the ICON 3" overland coil is a dual rate coil.. so with a constant load such as my bumper they end up closer to a 2.25" to 2.5" lift vs stock. You'll only get 3" rear lift from them on a stock 4Runner without any rear load.

So in the end I got lucky the stance turned out alnost perfect out of the box

Correction: I'm on 650lb springs up front.. added thread pics too

650 makes waaay more sense. I saw 700 in the thread and 750 in your signature and i was like how does his fillings not get knocked out with 750lb springs and no bumper. This all makes sense now. Thanks!

On that note, you said you are liking the 650's? Not too firm? I'm sure its great on the road keeping sway down just curious how they do in the bumps

 

[borfoo3]

650 makes waaay more sense. I saw 700 in the thread and 750 in your signature and i was like how does his fillings not get knocked out with 750lb springs and no bumper. This all makes sense now. Thanks!

On that note, you said you are liking the 650's? Not too firm? I'm sure its great on the road keeping sway down just curious how they do in the bumps

Ya lol sorry about the confusion.. during my discussion with TA we considered the 3 options (600lb, 650lb, and 700lb) before I settled for the 650lb for the dual batteries and slightly higher rear coil rate to match the ride. I wouldn't have an issue with a light bumper or hybrid bumper should I go that route in the future as there's almost no pre-load on the coils right now and plenty of headroom for adding damping with the adjusters.

Yes I like them a lot. Very smooth over bumps and daily driving. No loss of control even at 60mph runs over large speed bumps. They don't feel harsh at all, and match my setup perfectly, BUT I wouldn't go any higher than 650lb without added weight up front. No nose dive either.

I also recommend trying to balance front coil firmness with the rest of the truck. For example:

600lb front coils are perfect for someone with stock setup and not much higher than stock rear coil rates and no front weight added.

650lb in front matches great with the rear ICON Overland 3" and rear bumper. Very balanced and plenty smooth

700lb or above for real heavy rigs with something like OME Heavy coils, roof tent, full bumpers/ sliders all around and/ or winch...etc.

 

[guitarsail]

Ya lol sorry about the confusion.. during my discussion with TA we considered the 3 options (600lb, 650lb, and 700lb) before I settled for the 650lb for the dual batteries and slightly higher rear coil rate to match the ride. I wouldn't have an issue with a light bumper or hybrid bumper should I go that route in the future as there's almost no pre-load on the coils right now and plenty of headroom for adding damping with the adjusters.

Yes I like them a lot. Very smooth over bumps and daily driving. No loss of control even at 60mph runs over large speed bumps. They don't feel harsh at all, and match my setup perfectly, BUT I wouldn't go any higher than 650lb without added weight up front. No nose dive either.

I also recommend trying to balance front coil firmness with the rest of the truck. For example:

600lb front coils are perfect for someone with stock setup and not much higher than stock rear coil rates and no front weight added.

650lb in front matches great with the rear ICON Overland 3" and rear bumper. Very balanced and plenty smooth

700lb or above for real heavy rigs with something like OME Heavy coils, roof tent, full bumpers/ sliders all around and/ or winch...etc.

Beautiful description. I had basically settled on 650lb based on my research you just finalized that for me. If i can get that height without any preload thats IDEAL. You dont look TOO high either meaning your CV's should still look pretty good and not angled too badly. Thanks again.

 

[huntha10]

Does anyone know if i can run the extended coilovers and shocks with 2 inch springs and with the CO's at 2 inch till my tires wear out? Then throw in the 3 inch springs and run the coilovers up?

 

[PeoplecallmeIan]

Trying to gather some info. Did any of you King guys choose different valving for your shocks? I'm kind of over my Icon's. I do a mix of rock crawling, trail riding but mostly like the high speed desert stuff. I want to go LT but I'm not really willing to spend 10-15k.

 

[borfoo3]

Trying to gather some info. Did any of you King guys choose different valving for your shocks? I'm kind of over my Icon's. I do a mix of rock crawling, trail riding but mostly like the high speed desert stuff. I want to go LT but I'm not really willing to spend 10-15k.

I stuck to default valving. Wouldn't even consider anything else unless your building a dedicated purpose rig, as I feel default is a perfect all-rounder.

 

[Wht4Runner15]

Hello All. Have a 2016 SR5 Premium 4X4. Last month I installed King OEM C/O with compression adjusters in the front and Kings with reservoir in the rear. I did not make any adjustments to the C/O's whatsoever and I did not install a lift in the rear. I am running TRD rims and 265 Nitto G2's. Here is where I need some help...

Today I ordered the boxed variant UCA from California Super Trucks (CST). They look identical to the ICON billet variant. After installing my C/O's it was apparent that the factory UCA is terrible because I had to put a ton of weight and pressure to get it back down to bolt it back down. I'm hopeful the ride will improve even better then it is now and right now it's pretty nice. Unfortunately the truck still has a little rake (rear higher then the front). I would really like for them to be even or have the front ever so slightly higher then the rear. I will run these tires for a few years and then likely run 285's. I have an infant and my days of big lifts are behind me, looking for a nice look and off-roading functionality. Getting to fishing holes, locations to shoot, driving up to Big Bear Mountian and a little fun every now and then. My question is, how many threads should I be showing on my Kings to achieve a slightly higher front then the rear end?

Have you installed your set up yet? i am in the exact same boat as you. i have a 2015. i just picked up King coilovers with 550 lb springs and compression adjusters, got the Kings for the rear with compression adjusters, and ICON UCA's. i am not looking to crank down my c/o to max out my lift. Just looking for a smooth well performing ride to fit 285/70/17 tires.
ill be installing everything in a couple weeks once i get a few things back from powder coat(UCA to match wheels, and resivoir mounts).
if you have installed your kit, what size tires are you running? did you adjust the c/o from the stock setting?

 

[Agent_Outside]

I stuck to default valving. Wouldn't even consider anything else unless your building a dedicated purpose rig, as I feel default is a perfect all-rounder.

That’s terrible advice. Default is not “perfect” at anything, it’s rather generic and meant as a 1 size fits all. There no logical reason not to have them custom valved, for no additional cost, to best fit how you intend to use them. I’d argue it doesn’t make any sense to fork out the money for Kings and not explore having them valved and setup specifically for your needs, your vehicles weight, your vehicles usage.

 

[guitarsail]

Installed kings 700lb extended travel today. Feels so much better than the 5100s I had on. Set them at 6 thread preload. Small rake which should be gone this weekend after rear bumper install.

Which Dobinson spring are you running in the rear? 3" progressive? Are those the Wheelers superbumps?

 

[borfoo3]

That’s terrible advice. Default is not “perfect” at anything, it’s rather generic and meant as a 1 size fits all. There no logical reason not to have them custom valved, for no additional cost, to best fit how you intend to use them. I’d argue it doesn’t make any sense to fork out the money for Kings and not explore having them valved and setup specifically for your needs, your vehicles weight, your vehicles usage.

The OEM series KINGs are already tuned for the stock 4Runner, including aspects such as vehicle weight, correct shock travel lengths, and valving suitable for daily use.. I said they’re the “perfect all-rounder” out of the box.. no such thing as perfect valving for everything. A shock tuned for a Baja 500 trophy truck will obviously not do well in stop light traffic.. there’s always compromise somewhere.

In fact, I’d argue it’s a waste to fork the money for KINGs without adjusters and picking the correct coil rates.. as the real fine tuning happens there after everything is on the truck and you actually drive it.. after several rounds, I bet they’ll dial in well for 95% of the people here.

The remaining 5% are those who have the means and willing to put the effort to crack open and revalve their shocks several times to get them dialed perfectly.. Picking a “custom” valving setup from their drop down list without knowing exactly what you are asking and what you’ll get is just setting you up for a disappointment.

 

[Agent_Outside]

And I’d bet you’re making up the percentages you claim based on nothing. Your opinion carries no weight as it’s completely based off assumptions. Point being it’s never a bad idea to explore the option of having something tailored to exactly how you want to use it versus running it out of the box.

 

[Wht4Runner15]

Sorry man, I haven't had a chance to measure but got these photos:
Drivers

Passengers


*keep in mind that i am running a 1" rear coil so this wouldn't help much with your 2" Icon coils.

Maybe I missed it somewhere in the thread, but, did you use a spring compressor to adjust your coil overs? I have kings brand new in the box ready to install and I want to add 1/2” to 1” to the stock setting to clear 285’s.

 

[Jeffy]

Maybe I missed it somewhere in the thread, but, did you use a spring compressor to adjust your coil overs? I have kings brand new in the box ready to install and I want to add 1/2” to 1” to the stock setting to clear 285’s.

I've adjusted my Radflos while they were installed, no spring compressor needed. Jack up the front so the wheel(s) is(are) off the ground and the springs don't have the vehicle's weight on them. Then just get in there with the spanner wrench, lower the vehicle to check height, and repeat if necessary until it's where you want it to be.

If they're not installed, you would either need some way to hold the coilover while you adjust it, or use a spring compressor so the adjusting collar can spin freely. If they're pretty close to where you want it though, it's just easier to fine-tune while they're on the vehicle, and then you can instantly see how it looks.