chrissurfr
New member
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King shocks update!
- Thread starter MEMO CAMPOS
- Start date
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chrissurfr
New member
wheelers t-13 all the way....whatever you do dont get the toytec 2 inch superflex. it gets like 3.5 inches of lift on stock weight and rides terrible.
get the 600 pound spring in the front from king. it rides great. not stiff at all. just make sure no more than 4-6 turns of preload max
jblawrence25
New member
Finally got my kings delivered and installed it all myself in my garage. It was a long garage project as I was alone, but It was a blast and I’m extremely happy with the final product and stance. New tires are being put on today and I’ll post pics with those.
Data:
Up front - King 2.5’s with SPC UCA. 6 threads showing on the adjuster.
Rear - King 2.5’s with 1.5” spring spacer (I do not regularly carry a lot of weight so the bigger spring wouldn’t have been necessary yet).
Tires (not in this pic yet) 275/70/R17 Cooper discover A/T3.
I did not take measurements before and after but I am very pleased with the ride height and stance now. The new tires that I’m getting will give the final touch that I am looking for and then it’s time to go play.
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Data:
Up front - King 2.5’s with SPC UCA. 6 threads showing on the adjuster.
Rear - King 2.5’s with 1.5” spring spacer (I do not regularly carry a lot of weight so the bigger spring wouldn’t have been necessary yet).
Tires (not in this pic yet) 275/70/R17 Cooper discover A/T3.
I did not take measurements before and after but I am very pleased with the ride height and stance now. The new tires that I’m getting will give the final touch that I am looking for and then it’s time to go play.
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jblawrence25
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TotalAutomotiveLV
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UtahRnr
New member
How do you like the JBA UCAs? Are you glad you got them? I have been debating those vs. the Total Chaos UCAs... JBAs seem easier to maintain with such a common ball joint (GM, available at at auto parts shop).
People say the big drawback with JBAs is tire/wheel fitment limitations...
UtahRnr
New member
I love the stance of your ride. Are you running spacers on those F5s?
UtahRnr
New member
This thread is a wealth of knowledge. I've made my decision to go with Kings, but I still have lots of questions... Maybe a vendor can chime in here and help me out (and earn my business) 
Questions:
1) Do I really need to remove Kings to adjust them? I read in at the beginning of this thread that they have to be removed to be adjusted. If I opt for the optional compression adjusters front/rear, isn't that what those are for? Maybe they just have to be removed in order to adjust the preload on the coilovers?
2) What's the big benefit to opting for the Reservoirs? Is it just quicker response time from the shocks at higher speeds?
3) What valving would I want if I'm a city cruiser M-F but off-roading (Utah mountains, and southwest desert) on the weekends? I'm not building a rock crawler here, just want to be able to get to my off road destinations. I think the adjusters can help with the pavement vs. off road, but I'm clueless on valving. What do you recommend?
4) I am not sure I'll need the extended travel or not but I'm being told it's the same price so why not? Any reason why I shouldn't do this?
5) I want the ride to sit mostly level. I will rarely be towing a trailer if ever. Given that I'll likely need heavy duty springs, what else do I need to achieve a level ride? Coilover preload?
Questions:
1) Do I really need to remove Kings to adjust them? I read in at the beginning of this thread that they have to be removed to be adjusted. If I opt for the optional compression adjusters front/rear, isn't that what those are for? Maybe they just have to be removed in order to adjust the preload on the coilovers?
2) What's the big benefit to opting for the Reservoirs? Is it just quicker response time from the shocks at higher speeds?
3) What valving would I want if I'm a city cruiser M-F but off-roading (Utah mountains, and southwest desert) on the weekends? I'm not building a rock crawler here, just want to be able to get to my off road destinations. I think the adjusters can help with the pavement vs. off road, but I'm clueless on valving. What do you recommend?
4) I am not sure I'll need the extended travel or not but I'm being told it's the same price so why not? Any reason why I shouldn't do this?
5) I want the ride to sit mostly level. I will rarely be towing a trailer if ever. Given that I'll likely need heavy duty springs, what else do I need to achieve a level ride? Coilover preload?
ChrisJHarney
New member
[MENTION=317678]UtahRnr[/MENTION], I’m not a vendor, but I installed mine, and adjusted them a few times, so here’s my $.02
“1) Do I really need to remove Kings to adjust them? I read in at the beginning of this thread that they have to be removed to be adjusted. If I opt for the optional compression adjusters front/rear, isn't that what those are for? Maybe they just have to be removed in order to adjust the preload on the coilovers?”
You need to compress the springs in order to adjust the collar. The easiest and safest way to do this is to remove the coil over and use a spring compressor. There is documentation here (don’t have time to track it down now) of people being able to compress the springs enough to adjust on the truck, but it is definitely a little more difficult, and depending on your method, sometimes dangerous.
“2) What's the big benefit to opting for the Reservoirs? Is it just quicker response time from the shocks at higher speeds?”
The benefit of the resis are increased oil volume. If you find yourself driving at medium to high speeds on washboard surfaces for hours on end (think Saline/Death Valley, Mojave, powerline roads) the oil in your shocks gets very hot and can break down and/or froth up, causing a decrease in shock performance. The reservoirs not only add oil volume, but to a lesser extent (depending on where they are mounted and the ambient temperature) add a cooling value. Kings offer finned resis that increase that cooling feature. If you don’t find yourself in those situations, then the only thing resis add is the ability to adjust your valving, which may be worth it for some.
“3) What valving would I want if I'm a city cruiser M-F but off-roading (Utah mountains, and southwest desert) on the weekends? I'm not building a rock crawler here, just want to be able to get to my off road destinations. I think the adjusters can help with the pavement vs. off road, but I'm clueless on valving. What do you recommend?”
I can’t speak to specific valving (Filthy Motor Sports/Accutune are vendors who do valve specific applications before they ship), but if you do go with resis, there is no reason to not also go for the adjusters, which allow you to tune your own shocks very easily. On my last trip to Old Dale, I played around with my valving several times and found a really nice, comfortable and controlled setting. Very worth the extra money. Highly recommended.
“4) I am not sure I'll need the extended travel or not but I'm being told it's the same price so why not? Any reason why I shouldn't do this?”
No reason to not go for the extended travel. Know that you only get .5” of extra down travel as the only way King achieves that is by removing an internal foam bump stop in the shock body.
“5) I want the ride to sit mostly level. I will rarely be towing a trailer if ever. Given that I'll likely need heavy duty springs, what else do I need to achieve a level ride? Coilover preload?”
Careful about too much preload, as I’m sure you’ve read chrissurfr’s comments above. There is an acceptable level of preload you can introduce before the ride suffers. King can help you with those numbers directly if you contact them, but if my memory serves me, it’s 2.5”.. You can always use spacers if you need to as well, just know you’ll lose droop the higher you go. And then there’s adding weight in the rear, that should compress the rears to match the fronts, lol.
“1) Do I really need to remove Kings to adjust them? I read in at the beginning of this thread that they have to be removed to be adjusted. If I opt for the optional compression adjusters front/rear, isn't that what those are for? Maybe they just have to be removed in order to adjust the preload on the coilovers?”
You need to compress the springs in order to adjust the collar. The easiest and safest way to do this is to remove the coil over and use a spring compressor. There is documentation here (don’t have time to track it down now) of people being able to compress the springs enough to adjust on the truck, but it is definitely a little more difficult, and depending on your method, sometimes dangerous.
“2) What's the big benefit to opting for the Reservoirs? Is it just quicker response time from the shocks at higher speeds?”
The benefit of the resis are increased oil volume. If you find yourself driving at medium to high speeds on washboard surfaces for hours on end (think Saline/Death Valley, Mojave, powerline roads) the oil in your shocks gets very hot and can break down and/or froth up, causing a decrease in shock performance. The reservoirs not only add oil volume, but to a lesser extent (depending on where they are mounted and the ambient temperature) add a cooling value. Kings offer finned resis that increase that cooling feature. If you don’t find yourself in those situations, then the only thing resis add is the ability to adjust your valving, which may be worth it for some.
“3) What valving would I want if I'm a city cruiser M-F but off-roading (Utah mountains, and southwest desert) on the weekends? I'm not building a rock crawler here, just want to be able to get to my off road destinations. I think the adjusters can help with the pavement vs. off road, but I'm clueless on valving. What do you recommend?”
I can’t speak to specific valving (Filthy Motor Sports/Accutune are vendors who do valve specific applications before they ship), but if you do go with resis, there is no reason to not also go for the adjusters, which allow you to tune your own shocks very easily. On my last trip to Old Dale, I played around with my valving several times and found a really nice, comfortable and controlled setting. Very worth the extra money. Highly recommended.
“4) I am not sure I'll need the extended travel or not but I'm being told it's the same price so why not? Any reason why I shouldn't do this?”
No reason to not go for the extended travel. Know that you only get .5” of extra down travel as the only way King achieves that is by removing an internal foam bump stop in the shock body.
“5) I want the ride to sit mostly level. I will rarely be towing a trailer if ever. Given that I'll likely need heavy duty springs, what else do I need to achieve a level ride? Coilover preload?”
Careful about too much preload, as I’m sure you’ve read chrissurfr’s comments above. There is an acceptable level of preload you can introduce before the ride suffers. King can help you with those numbers directly if you contact them, but if my memory serves me, it’s 2.5”.. You can always use spacers if you need to as well, just know you’ll lose droop the higher you go. And then there’s adding weight in the rear, that should compress the rears to match the fronts, lol.
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UtahRnr
New member
[MENTION=208941]ChrisJHarney[/MENTION] thank you! Very helpful!
I've made up my mind on what I want to do. Your response and also a call I got from Richard at Total Automotive Performance ( [MENTION=120150]TotalAutomotiveLV[/MENTION] ) really helped. For my application I think the Kings 2.5 extended travel with adjusters is what I will like best. I'll run a 650# coil up front and get the OME med load coils (2889) in the back until I have more constant weight. Then I'll swap the rear coils for heavier duty OME.
Going with JBA UCAs.
Richard was super patient so I'm definitely taking my business there. Plus, good deal right now for superbowl - code super19 and no tax
I've made up my mind on what I want to do. Your response and also a call I got from Richard at Total Automotive Performance ( [MENTION=120150]TotalAutomotiveLV[/MENTION] ) really helped. For my application I think the Kings 2.5 extended travel with adjusters is what I will like best. I'll run a 650# coil up front and get the OME med load coils (2889) in the back until I have more constant weight. Then I'll swap the rear coils for heavier duty OME.
Going with JBA UCAs.
Richard was super patient so I'm definitely taking my business there. Plus, good deal right now for superbowl - code super19 and no tax
T4RZAN
New member
Curious how different everyone's preload is between the two coilovers? I'm currently sitting at 6 on the pass side and 14 on the driver side.
I'm still rocking the 550 springs. I have added a group 27 battery and steel gas tank skid (among other things, but everything else is in the middle except for my fridge which is on the pass side).
I figured there would need to be some difference but I know that 6-8 is the max preload that is recommended. Any idea why mine might be so far off?
I'm still rocking the 550 springs. I have added a group 27 battery and steel gas tank skid (among other things, but everything else is in the middle except for my fridge which is on the pass side).
I figured there would need to be some difference but I know that 6-8 is the max preload that is recommended. Any idea why mine might be so far off?
borfoo3
New member
They are holding up well so far. I like the fact that they are less maintenance and easy replacement vs ball joint.. Couple squirts of grease on the zerk every few months and you're set. More travel, better clearance than OEM for the bigger shocks.
I'm running 285 tires + 1 inch spacers and don't have any clearance issues with UCA's. Rubs fenders, yes, but easily clears JBA UCA. So not sure what you mean by tire/wheel fitment limitations.
I would personally stay on OEM UCA's as long as possible for reliability and maintenance free aspect. But they were hitting the KING coils pretty bad on downtravel.
borfoo3
New member
From what I know, KING offers this suspension as direct OEM replacement. Therefore regular travel works with OEM UCA's.
Extended travel is basically more down-travel (droop), which requires aftermarket UCA's to clear the coilover spring.
TRDTommy
New member
I'm going to install my Kings soon and just wondering if anyone upgraded /replaced the the track bar, rear lower and upper links to adjustables. And if it is even necessary for the mild 2"-3" lifts were doing. I have KDSS but would like opinions from non KDSS owners as well.
borfoo3
New member
I'm close to 3" with KING extended travels and KDSS truck. No issues with stock track bar or links
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Rig looks awesome man quick question did you have any fitting issue with swaybar against TRD front skid, after moving swaybar forward and down to install king bracket? Thanks in advance
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Just ordered king front extended travel coilovers with adjusters and 600# springs, dirt king boxed uca's icon 2" coils and rear king extended shocks with adjusters from @totalautomotiveperformance !!! Hope they get here in less than 4 weeks! Although my FN FX wheels wont be until the end of may.... maybe it will all be perfect timing!
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Clearance issue uca and reservoir bracket
I got my suspension installed and it is fantastic.
However my dirt king boxed uca is touching the reservoir bracket on the drivers side.
I am thinking I can just ream out the mounting holes of the bracket unless someone has another idea.
I got my suspension installed and it is fantastic.
However my dirt king boxed uca is touching the reservoir bracket on the drivers side.
I am thinking I can just ream out the mounting holes of the bracket unless someone has another idea.
T4R_KAI
New member
Finally got my kings, just need to install them. Curious to seeing what people are paying for install?
Where in socal are you? I paid $660 here in san diego.
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