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$21 is a great deal, tempting. I unfortunately got all I needed in the last GB.

Thanks for the heads ups though :)
 
Does anyone make a higher quality switch that fits in the stock cutouts. Maybe a rocker.

I have two of the AOB Toyota switches and one basically already failed on me. It was my front locker switch and it was a bit frustrating not being able to use it when I really needed it.

The spring is extremely light in these switches and I'm guessing that is why it became difficult to switch.

I never thought one of these switches would stop working, but sure enough...

They are also very easy to accidentally switch on (when they are working correctly).
 
Lots of people use these: http://www.otrattw.net/home.php I personally cannot attest to their quality, I haven't seen anyone complain about them.

Hmm I have had two of the slee switches, I would say that they "feel" better made. In fact I took apart the third switch I got for a winch cutoff, trimmed the inside of the face plate down to fit inside the Slee body.

You can easily pull the AOB switch apart and stretch the spring if you felt like spending the time on it, take all of about ten minutes.

The two AOB's I do have installed, I use them a few times a week, have been without issue. Although I do understand what you mean.
 
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jrandom said:
Lots of people use these: OTRATTW I personally cannot attest to their quality, I haven't seen anyone complain about them.

Hmm I have had two of the slee switches, I would say that they "feel" better made. In fact I took apart the third switch I got for a winch cutoff, trimmed the inside of the face plate down to fit inside the Slee body.

You can easily pull the AOB switch apart and stretch the spring if you felt like spending the time on it, take all of about ten minutes.

The two AOB's I do have installed, I use them a few times a week, have been without issue. Although I do understand what you mean.
Click to expand...

Those otrattw switches won't fit in the stock cutouts, correct?

I will trying taking apart my AOB switch and see if I can fix it. The rear and front locker switches are right next to each other and the rear is fine, but the front just decided stop working yesterday. I went to push it and I was shocked that it wold not click. It may actually be hanging on the plastic body or something (the clearance is very tight).

I could still get it to work by very firmly pressing it in just the right position, but it was quite the struggle even after i figured out the technique. I ended up stuck on a very steep ledge without my front locker. I had to do ATRAC with a bunch of throttle and I ended up with the front wheels off the ground once the rear bit. It was quite the spectacle and probably not very good for my CV axles. :dance:
 
Correct they do not fit the factory knockout. Most seem to use the center cubby below the cig lighter.

The one I do have, for my compressor, I debated trimming the knockout, it would fit. Didn't like the look. If I had a cluster of the same switch I think it would be alright.

Mnn yeah failure not an option scenarios, not good for a vital component. Quite the spectacle I am sure, not to mention a bit of an adrenal gland exercise.
 
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I just recently purched both from AOB and OTTATTW and the second Carling switches are loads nicer and higher quality. Even the Laser etching looks nicer. The AOB can in a zip baggy ok packaged the others sealed better insulated. The AOB arrived with some minor marks the others none. Though you have to fit the area for the second switches you make the call. I have six carling and two aobs. Going to use the six switch plate under the usb port in the opening to use them. And the two aobs a fridge power and battery isolator, though they did come with a harness. I just wanted others to be aware as well. I have used switches before that fit the factory location and they are toyota switches for aux lighting they are nice. I got them from trd dallas.

Also have heard nothing but good things about the Slee switches that fit the factory locations.
 
I use ottratw switches for my utv, quality is excellent. Not really relevant because they don't use the stock location but if anyone needed them for any other switch application don't hesitate!
 
wfo9 said:
I have two of the AOB Toyota switches and one basically already failed on me. It was my front locker switch and it was a bit frustrating not being able to use it when I really needed it.
Click to expand...

Take it apart. I actually re-soldered some of mine to fix an issue and it worked great - also changed the led color while I was at it. Also, hit up the folks at AOB directly as they have sent me replacements for every failure without question.
 
[MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] have you contacted them about your issue? they are fairly nice and professional to work with.


[MENTION=120209]tigger[/MENTION] looking good so far, they haven't moved your thread for the third time! lol
 
I have not contacted them. In fact, I have not even pulled the switch out of the dash yet to see exactly what is going on with it.

My main issue is that these switches don't have a great tactile feel (even when working 100% correctly)... They are fine for lights or something where you just set it and forget it... but since the lockers (at least for me) are very much like a gear shifter... I would like it to have some type of heavy tactile feel where I don't have to look at it to know if it is actually on or off while on a technical trail (especially the front, since it can rarely stay on).

Even when it it was working correctly, I have had many situations where I thought it was activated and it was not or vice versa. It would be nice to find a solid rocker switch that fit in the same knock-out where you could still get custom labels and a factory look....
 
Update on this. Pulled the switch out of the panel today. It worked fine once out. I guess the plastic tab had come slightly loose causing it to push back a tad (making it hard to push in enough to click. I shaved down the edges a little to help if this happens again in the future.
 
wfo9 said:
Update on this. Pulled the switch out of the panel today. It worked fine once out. I guess the plastic tab had come slightly loose causing it to push back a tad (making it hard to push in enough to click. I shaved down the edges a little to help if this happens again in the future.
Click to expand...

A side note, something I remembered. When I installed the two I am currently using, I recall having to trim the inside of one of the actual slots. They appeared to be keyed for certain switches. If that is of any help.
 
(update 3/28/2015)
If anyone else wants in on the group buy, the code for the discount on the switches is AOBFGAXX9YLSXRS.
If you want free shipping on the diff breather kit, use code AOBSMF77BHG10J5.
If you are in Canada, please email them to place your order [email protected]

This group buy will close on April 5, 2015
 
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