Lazy mans BMC.

Mutant138

Mutant138

Banned
Can I take a BFH to it and just smash it back a few mm? Seems like if I just heated the problem area and sent it with a BFH I should be good to go. Give it a little rattle can after. I think a slightly bent mount is safer then lobbing the whole thing off (accident wise). I'm tall too so a BM might save my legs in an accident.
 
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I guess you could but just thinking about it sounds a lot harder than cutting. So I don't know about calling it lazy man.

Also I don't know how much room you have to swing at it with all the suspension in the way. If it was me I'd prolly hit my rotor 10x, the coil overs 15xs.
 
JP421 said:
Just cut it and get it over with. :baby:
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Then I have to get it welded. For how much people are asking I could almost buy a halfway decent hobart and do it myself. But, I'm getting ready to move, I don't live in a house yet, and idk how comfortable I'm with leaving it all open until i get it welded (painted or not).

Maybe I'll take a hammer to it then once I'm settled cut and weld it. IDK brainstorming here.
 
Mutant138 said:
Then I have to get it welded. For how much people are asking I could almost buy a halfway decent hobart and do it myself. But, I'm getting ready to move, I don't live in a house yet, and idk how comfortable I'm with leaving it all open until i get it welded (painted or not).

Maybe I'll take a hammer to it then once I'm settled cut and weld it. IDK brainstorming here.
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I bought a grinder then still had someone else do the whole thing.

$300, which seems high compared to others but its limited options around here.

No regerts.
 
Dillusion said:
I guess you could but just thinking about it sounds a lot harder than cutting. So I don't know about calling it lazy man.

Also I don't know how much room you have to swing at it with all the suspension in the way. If it was me I'd prolly hit my rotor 10x, the coil overs 15xs.
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I'm like a surgeon with a sledge. But, yeah I'll have to see if I can clear the knuckle assembly.
 
I don't think you can do that. The reason is mostly that you probably can't swing a hammer big enough, fast enough, within that space to actually physically do it. Bending it would probably work. But I don't think you can bend it. It's pretty damn strong. And in an area that's pretty hard to get to with something like a hammer. Some sort of hydraulic press might be able to do it if you could get it in the right position, but even then it's going to be a pretty tricky place to get it to work.
 
JP421 said:
I bought a grinder then still had someone else do the whole thing.

$300, which seems high compared to others but its limited options around here.

No regerts.
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300 I think is what I got quoted for a BMC at Sierra Expeditions... that might have been with cam tab gussets. I can't remember. I'll give em a call and post it up just for informations sake.
 
Id be more worried about screwing something out of allignment trying to beat it to clear(my first swong would hit a brake line i know it). It seems like youd have to bend alot to get clearance (ive never done it) If you have the tools to cut it and are just worried about leaving it open until it can be welded (and arent worried about structural issues) ...theres always duct tape.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
Jetboy said:
I don't think you can do that. The reason is mostly that you probably can't swing a hammer big enough, fast enough, within that space to actually physically do it. Bending it would probably work. But I don't think you can bend it. It's pretty damn strong. And in an area that's pretty hard to get to with something like a hammer. Some sort of hydraulic press might be able to do it if you could get it in the right position, but even then it's going to be a pretty tricky place to get it to work.
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Oh i know it's going to be hard af. I would prob try and use a 25/30 pounder assuming I could even manage the right arch without destroying something ha.

I'll have to take another look when I get off work. I have all the tools to just lob off a chunk to get get welded later. Just exploring options.
 
Funeral_The_Prisoner.jpeg
 
Honestly just take a grinder to it. I did that and cleared just fine. I didn't have to actually cut anything out or weld anything back up.
 
A10MileHusker said:
Honestly just take a grinder to it. I did that and cleared just fine. I didn't have to actually cut anything out or weld anything back up.
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Oh yeah good point.... I can still make it to full lock so it's got to be a few mm of material causing me problems. Maybe ill just bang this out after work so I can stop cringing everytime I go to full lock.
 
Mutant138 said:
Oh yeah good point.... I can still make it to full lock so it's got to be a few mm of material causing me problems. Maybe ill just bang this out after work so I can stop cringing everytime I go to full lock.
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I didn't even have to take the tires off to grind this out. Just turned it the other way so I could get in there and about 2 minutes of grinding and it was enough to clear the tire. Spray some black paint on it and call it good.

On my 2005 4runner I did what [MENTION=122189]BLACK-FL4RUNNER[/MENTION] suggested and just cut it off and then painted it. You dont need the cap on there at all.
 
A10MileHusker said:
I didn't even have to take the tires off to grind this out. Just turned it the other way so I could get in there and about 2 minutes of grinding and it was enough to clear the tire. Spray some black paint on it and call it good.

On my 2005 4runner I did what [MENTION=122189]BLACK-FL4RUNNER[/MENTION] suggested and just cut it off and then painted it. You dont need the cap on there at all.
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Excellent the less effort expended the better.

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Greybeardviking said:
So maybe Im just being misinformed but who actually needs a BMC? I was told I would need it but Im running 33s and I didnt need it.
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All depends. Every truck is a bit different. Every UCA is a bit different, every lift is a bit different, and people choose all different kinds of tires.

I was hoping I wouldn't need to but those tires are prob closer to a 34 then listed. Deepest tread for an AT on the market so my guess is it's a bit larger.

Jesse1983 said:
Neither of my lifted 5th gens needed it.
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Might be my lean up front making it an issue. My castor is has almost an entire degree difference left to right to compensate. Rub is much worse on the saggy side (Pass).
 
$200 at SDHQ.

Do it right or don't do it at all.

I have 285 KM3'S and no BMC yet. You def do not need it done right now.

My tires only rub on my body mounts just before full steering lock, so i never go to full steering lock, and never have an issue.

I'm having SDHQ do mine after they move and have their grand opening oct 5th.
 
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