LBJ Uniball?

Might be a stupid question so bear with me... but are uniballs supposed to move in only one direction as opposed to the free articulation in regular ball joints? I'm just now noticing these don't move 360 degrees like before, only back and forth one way
They are stiff to begin with but they articulate fully in every direction under the weight/load of the truck/wheel on ground.

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I've had knuckle threads strip on a different application ('87-'91 Camry) - same bolt-up-from-the-bottom setup. The threads strips because crap is pulled back down from the free threads and wears out the tapped hole in the knuckle. In that application, I used the bolt and nut method to 'fix' it. That one isn't under constant tension though, so less overall stress on the joint.

It is pretty clear that the different torque requirements for the bolts is the different head/washer design. Testing with stretch gauge and confirming head markings would be good evidence. Most Toyota bolts are marked with their strength, as called out in the FSM.

-Charlie

Another reason why upgrading to studs might be the better option!
 
Another reason why upgrading to studs might be the better option!

Not might be. Is. I've done the testing under real world conditions. 10.9s won't shear. Even for me. A weaker bolt will shear regardless of if it's got a capture not or not. Putting more tension on them might actually make them more prone to shear. I still can't wait to see the results of this test though.
 
Not might be. Is. I've done the testing under real world conditions. 10.9s won't shear. Even for me. A weaker bolt will shear regardless of if it's got a capture not or not. Putting more tension on them might actually make them more prone to shear. I still can't wait to see the results of this test though.

Me neither :). All the bolts are currently inbound, and we should get some Instron time later this month.
 
Rad man. I am going to find some way to get that $50 to you even if I have to buy some struts then give them to somebody. lol

Haha, OK, that's some dedication! I'll PM you.

And thank you Mike:

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Put my top cap in a lathe to sand it down a little... what the hell are these things made of? I had the spindle ripping and was using 80+160 grit papers, yet after a solid 45 minutes I barely shaved it down 1mm. That's some pretty impressive plastic tbh :eek:
 
Put my top cap in a lathe to sand it down a little... what the hell are these things made of? I had the spindle ripping and was using 80+160 grit papers, yet after a solid 45 minutes I barely shaved it down 1mm. That's some pretty impressive plastic tbh :eek:
I used a combo belt sander, coarse belt and fine disc. Took me 5-10 mins each mic-ing them every minute or so

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Blammo.

Those are rated the same then, just with two different marking styles.

-Charlie

Yes, and that's why we plan to test to confirm. That oft-quoted LBJ article claims that there was significantly different stretch between these bolts when using a torque wrench, but the friction coefficients could have been different (though I find that hard to believe for the red and green bolts).

So we'll find out for sure. In addition to the tensile test, I'd like to run some torque vs load tests as well.
 
Yes, and that's why we plan to test to confirm. That oft-quoted LBJ article claims that there was significantly different stretch between these bolts when using a torque wrench, but the friction coefficients could have been different (though I find that hard to believe for the red and green bolts).

So we'll find out for sure. In addition to the tensile test, I'd like to run some torque vs load tests as well.

will be very interested in what you find. I have been using ARP stuff for a while now. I prefer the 12 point stuff but I'm guessing there is no difference between the 12 pt and 6 point stuff ARP makes. circle K lighter for scale.

<a href="https://imgur.com/BQpoRyl"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/BQpoRyll.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
 
Charlie, any idea of what strength these 11T bolts are? We'll find out in our tensile tests, but I'm wondering what the "rated" strength or grade of these bolts is.

Based on the recommended torque values I always understood the numbers to be in line with metric class rating. So a 10.9 is 1000 MPa. So a Toyota 11T should be 1100 MPa.

But there might be more to it than that…
 
Based on the recommended torque values I always understood the numbers to be in line with metric class rating. So a 10.9 is 1000 MPa. So a Toyota 11T should be 1100 MPa.

But there might be more to it than that…

Interesting... So that would suggest that the commonly cited practice of replacing the OEM bolts with Grade 10.9 bolts is NOT a good idea, and is actually a step down in strength?
 
Interesting... So that would suggest that the commonly cited practice of replacing the OEM bolts with Grade 10.9 bolts is NOT a good idea, and is actually a step down in strength?

My own real world use would say the 10.9 is vastly superior to the OEM bolts. Maybe I've just been very unlucky shearing all the OEM bolts I have and shearing zero of the 10.9s I now use. But I doubt it. lol
 

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