98OzarksRunner
New member
265/75-16, 883s front (with bumper and winch weight), LC 7 7/8 wraps on back (with bumper, tire, 200# junk in the back). Just about perfect (IMHO).
LC Lift with 32" Tires - Picture Request
- Thread starter Shibby!
- Start date
Because I had some time I did some simple math:
At 35,000km (21,875 miles) per year, the following is annual gas cost ($1.20/liter):
23mpg = $4296
20mpg = $4939
18mpg = $5489
16mpg = $6174
Therefore, in 2 years, est mileage of 70,000km, 32's will likely or become close to paying for themselves in gas returns assuming a 2mpg loss via 33's.
(can you tell I'm horrible at making decisions?)
At 35,000km (21,875 miles) per year, the following is annual gas cost ($1.20/liter):
23mpg = $4296
20mpg = $4939
18mpg = $5489
16mpg = $6174
Therefore, in 2 years, est mileage of 70,000km, 32's will likely or become close to paying for themselves in gas returns assuming a 2mpg loss via 33's.
(can you tell I'm horrible at making decisions?)
Millerad1651
New member
You list the price of gas per liter, but are calculating miles per gallon? As I said in a different post, I did a 2" lift, put heavier E rated 265s, but slowed down a bit while driving, and have gained almost 2mpgs in the last 2 months. I don't think you'll take as big a loss as you think.
CoMarc
New member
I don't think I have any current pictures at a higher angle, unfortunately.
I also love the look with the Blisteins on the 3rd notch. However, the reason most people leave it on the 2nd notch is due to the angles of the CVs and also the ride quality. The more the coils are compressed the harsher the ride. However, it's still better than it was stock, and that's good enough for me! If you want the smoothest ride ever, leave it on the 1st notch
. I just didn't like the rake on either the 1st or 2nd notches with the 8Wrap LC coils in the back.I've actually been thinking of going to the Eibach coils up front instead of the Tundra TRDs with 890s in the rear instead of the LC coils to give it a level ride, but also level when towing.
rickashay
New member
Your exact thoughts were why I went with 265/75/16's initially. I kept telling myself its more "practical" and the truck would be more useable with the least amount of power loss and tire weight. Fast forward 12 months and you now find 285's on my truck. Shoulda went big in the first place! I bet I spend an extra $20 a month on fuel with the bigger tires....
I seen you went with 33's this time.
It's just everything equates to more cost. I quit my job and traveled for the last 6 months so I'm trying to be reasonable with my spending. 33's would net me better looks no doubt, but worse gas and having to buy spacers. Spacers that will tear the sides of my truck up with just the small chrome fender linings. Don't you find your rocker panels and sides are getting abused?
I keep going back and forth! haha. I have to make a decision here soon to take advantage of the Goodyear sale..
I'm Canadian, we're schooled to work in both systems. :nerd:
On average, I think our gas is slightly more expensive then US. Dollar value is on par though.
I used a MPG-L/100K converter online that I've been suspicious with. I haven't confirmed the conversion because I'm lazy.
I assume your KM2's were E rated? If not, could you compare the difference in ride? The tires I'm looking at are only available with E load rating in 33" variety.
NOT ME OR SOMEBODY
New member
rickashay
New member
Yah my KM2's were E rated. I do notice a very minimal difference now running the D (I think?!?!) MTZ's. I would say it's definitely not a deal breaker either way though IMO. My rockers don't get beat up that bad. The sliders catch most of the debris and my miniature mud flaps catch some too. Your thinking you need spacers to clear the UCA's? I know a few guys on CT4WD who would unload some 1.25" wheel spacers for cheap....
From what I can tell 33's put you close to the upper control arm with stock wheels. The Tacoma wheels move inward another 1/4" or so. To top it off, the Duratracs have pretty aggressive sidewall treads which I'm not sure about.
I'd like to do a mud terrain but mileage, noise, and winter use come into play.
bak3rme
Senior Member
might be just me..but my tires are E rated and they seem like they don't loose tread at all. heavier rated tire loads on these light 4runners seem to keep the tread wearing at an extremely low rate. i've had mine for almost 2 years and you should look at the tread depth..like new.
To some degree I believe that. When reading reviews on tires you get people on both sides of the extreme, like a guy with a Tacoma that wears them out in 30,000 miles, then a guy in a diesel truck who gets over 65,000 miles.
That being said, there are trade-offs. More wear generally means better traction (softer rubber), to a degree I appreciate that, but I'd be pissed if tires wore out before 50,000KM, which some of them do! For the cost, I'd almost expect 60-70,000 KM (37,500-43,750 miles)
Now, the issue with E rated is the stiffness of the tire. They don't flex reducing traction, and on bumpy roads (wash board ) they skip across the road rather then deforming. They put the work that was once done by the tire onto the suspension.
I know there are other benefits, but I think a D rating is perfect for our vehicles, even C, but I think E is overkill and causes issues. Problem is with certain sizes, many are only offered in E load rating.
I'm still going back and forth with 32 vs 33's. I wish there were more options for 255's. Tire rack has the BFG KM2 255/85/16 for WAY cheaper then you can get in Canada. This tire would clear my UCA, but being almost a 34 would need more body work..
Now you're selling me on rockers too!? ugh..
Yea, I'm 80% sure I'd need spacers. I could wait for a test fit though once tires are on. I see there are some Wheelers ones on the classified sections, but for pretty much the same price I could buy new (180 new).
I'll see. I have till June 12th to make a decision, but I hope to do it here soon. Fountain tire has agreed to beat CDN Tire's prices (cause who wants to buy automotive stuff there?). I don't want them to forget about our arrangement!
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JohnsD90
New member
If you are really concerned at mpg, don't lift and put bigger tires on, or of you are dead set on lifting it, get a TDI jetta/golf, or a 1500cc civic and get over double the Best case scenario mpg the 4runner will net. The civics you can get for like $2k and the VW's for $4k. As much as I like my 4runner, the jetta is a much better daily than it, way smoother, quiter and more comfortable, and more fun to drive in.
1985taylor1925
Senior Member
Or get a motorcycle and get over 50mpg
JohnsD90
New member
I can get over 50 in the jetta, motorcycles especially up north and Canada arent really a realistic daily driver for the whole years, I can drive the jetta 95% of the days I drive, you can maybe ride 3 months a year on a motorcycle if you are lucky, also my dads Harley's used to get about 35mpg and the street bikes my friends have are doing about 45mpg.
I appreciate the advice, I understand, however I'm just trying to limit just how bad it is. I am leaning towards 33's again though.
As for motorcycles, I've owned plenty. The one I own now gets 50-53MPG, but I hate using them as transportation, plus wear items, insurance, etc on motorcycles make them less efficient then most people think.
