Leaking oil from valve covers AGAIN!

tyr0981

tyr0981

New member
Soo the story goes, i first attempted to fix the leaky valve cover last ~Fall-ish, (without research and not knowing about the 'half-moon's') it didn't help at all... tried again (thinking i had made a mistake) no success (this time i broke a valve cover by tightening the end cap bolt too much), replaced the valve cover, still leaking.....

so i finally read about the half-moons a few months ago, and round three, (and this time i broke the right side valve cover by tightening that bastard end bolt too much....). So now I've got 2 shiny new valve covers.... AND I'M STILL LEAKING OIL!!!!!!!!!

:dammit: :gun6: :mad:

So WTF! The valve cover bolts have loosened up this time... (within a week) they seam to be loosening all on their own at a fast rate. I'm putting around 20 lbs of torque on them all (criss-crossing pattern) and within a short time they are loose again.

Should i use some blue lock-tight or what? My annoyance level is turning into rage at this point, about to give up and take her to the Stealership.....
Please save me someone..... anyone.....

:frusty:
 
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Which gaskets did you use? Did you put in new valve cover bolts? The threads might be worn out from over tightening, and new bolts could help keep tight. Blue loctite isn't a bad idea also
 
runner823 said:
We don't want your POS! Please take to a near you Goodyear, Firestone, or Midas where they have people with your abilities. :thanks:
Click to expand...

Well thanks for being useless, i'll make sure to never go near a Toyota Dealer in Seattle.


BlazeRunner said:
Which gaskets did you use? Did you put in new valve cover bolts? The threads might be worn out from over tightening, and new bolts could help keep tight. Blue loctite isn't a bad idea also
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New bolts may be good ticket, they didn't look happy when i had them out. I'd say that could be the main reason, but the driver-side is fine, no leaks and still clean from the de-greaser . All gaskets replaced with ones that came with the covers, also used Toyota FIPG on all the gasket surfaces, including the half moons.

The old covers had ~258K miles on them, and looked to be very 'tired'... like metal that has been in the sun / weather too long kinda look. I can reach the right side without removing the plenum so maybe i'll get some stainless bolts from Ace tomorrow.
 
Did you replace the camshaft seals? Get new washers for the bolts (unless the bolts are jiggered up which begs the question why?) 20 ft lb torque is waaaaay too much torque on those VC bolts - that could be your problem. Actually surprised you didn't crack the VC itself. Oh wait you did. Sorry had to say that. Believe the spec is something like 14 INCH lbs double check that though. Make sure to put the FIPG (I actually used red hi-temp RTV) in ALL the right places the (half moons, in the corners where the end caps are and on the caps that hold the camshaft seals in place. You said you used FIPG on ALL the gasket surfaces? Hopefully not. Only need it in the few places mentioned. Thoroughly go over the write-ups on here because everything you need to know is there. Use OEM stuff also.
 
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OEM parts? From what I have seen that us #1 killer when it comes to erroneous maintenance.

Did you over torque the bolts? I just replaced mine and over torqued the bolts, it's seeping a few drops a week but I'll live with it til spring.

What about the grommets, did you replace those?

You may have a bad valve cover? Or 2? It could be bent a little, scarred up or something like that.
 
If you were tightening the valve covers enough to be breaking them, you were tightening them WAY to tight.

Get new valve cover gaskets. Get new bolts with nice fresh rubber washers on them. When you put the valve covers back on the truck, do not even think about reaching for your torque wrench, you don't need it and if its calibration is off then that's probably why you keep screwing up. Tighten the bolts to finger tight (really finger tight though), plus one turn. If you have weepage after a couple days, give them another half turn.

I haven't looked in the FSM, but 20 ft/lbs seems like waaaaaay too much torque for those little bolts - is that what the FSM calls for?
 
It sounds like they weren't fixed because you didn't know what you were doing. I mean no offense but your description it sounds like you just tightened them down until the bolts snapped.

Did you follow any legit guide or method? What guide and did you use a Toyota gasket?

Also I'm pretty sure those bolts are to be replaced along with the gasket
 
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my Chilton manual said 16ft lbs on the VC bolts (i'm estimating with my un-calibrated hands, since both my torque wrenches start @ 20lbs). The cam seals looked perfect so i didn't replace them.... but i'm second guessing myself all over the place so i might as well.... weirdly the VC replacement kit i first bought did not have any O ring seals... should i buy the O rings or use FIPG?
 
tyr,

start by referencing the writeup in my post #9 (You can probably skip all the half moon stuff), and maybe invest in a inch/lbs torque wrench. 16ft/lbs to me sounds like you are going to get cracked covers.
 
amalik said:
tyr,

start by referencing the writeup in my post #9 (You can probably skip all the half moon stuff), and maybe invest in a inch/lbs torque wrench. 16ft/lbs to me sounds like you are going to get cracked covers.
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i've paid for a small torque wrench already at this point haven't I..... will do. Need more FIPG and an inch pound torque wrench......

:sniper:
 
tyr0981 said:
my Chilton manual said 16ft lbs on the VC bolts (i'm estimating with my un-calibrated hands, since both my torque wrenches start @ 20lbs). The cam seals looked perfect so i didn't replace them.... but i'm second guessing myself all over the place so i might as well.... weirdly the VC replacement kit i first bought did not have any O ring seals... should i buy the O rings or use FIPG?
Click to expand...

From the FSM:

Cylinder head cover x Cylinder head 53 in.·lbf
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http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/ss/engmec5v/torspe.pdf

Mine has leaked since about 2005. I just retighten to spec all the bolts I can reach with every spark plug change. The ones I can't reach are at the top and don't seem to leak. It does leak, but it's minimal. I can live with it. I never come close to having to add between changes @7500 OCI.
 
FIPG on gaskets. Hand tight only for 10 min dry time before "torquing" down. (i'm sure there's an opinion on this one)

wow... yeah i think i was way wrong about the torque... 53inch pounds.... jesus, glad i didn't snap one off in the cylinder head.



My leak is also very slow (no adding between my 3k OCI) but the fact that i can't seam fu**in fix it is not okay with me!.... I've become slightly OCD with this.....
 
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Replacing my valve cover gaskets was the first thing I had to do when I bought mine in February. I took my time, read every write-up I could find (several times) and watched several YouTube videos (again, several times). I replaced everything I could (washers, half moons, cam shaft plugs, etc.) because I didn't want to have to do it again.

Good luck getting this issue resolved; I'm sure it's frustrating as hell. My advice would be to do it one more time and replace everything you can get to while it's exposed. I've read about another member using JB Weld on a cracked valve cover to temporarily seal it up.
 
tyr0981 said:
FIPG on gaskets. Hand tight only for 10 min dry time before "torquing" down. (i'm sure there's an opinion on this one)

wow... yeah i think i was way wrong about the torque... 53inch pounds.... jesus, glad i didn't snap one off in the cylinder head.



My leak is also very slow (no adding between my 3k OCI) but the fact that i can't seam fu**in fix it is not okay with me!.... I've become slightly OCD with this.....
Click to expand...

Don't use fipg on the gaskets. I believe you only use it in the corners where it is shaped like a half circle. (where it goes over the caps for the camshaft plugs. Just a little dot in each corner) Also used on the mating surface of the camshaft plug caps.
 
I did my valve cover gaskets back in November and have put around 11,000 miles on since then. I used all OEM Toyota parts including the plenums, cam seals, VC gaskets washers and replaced the spark plugs, wires and spark plug grommets while I was in there.

I'm sure you've figured out the issues by now, but don't use the FPIG anywhere on the valve cover gasket itself. Just on the little half moons in the back. I don't recall what I torqued the VC bolts to, but it wasn't very tight. Bone dry since then. Let us know how the next time goes. Good luck.
 
yeah.... to the dealership i'll go..... Gasket set, o-ring (s), FPIG (for the half moons), think i'll replace the VC bolts also....

All the Backyard mechanic's i've ever talked to / worked with, always used the gasket maker on the valve covers, just as an added insurance since it's still fluid when applied it'd seam like it couldn't hurt anything.

:frisky:
 
If you walk into the dealership you may just get RIPPED OFF.

The dealers here in San Diego charge 100% (for real) over MSRP on some parts.

While Internet dealers (real Toyota dealerships with Internet sales departments) sell for 20% under MSRP.

Here is what happened to me ....
Local: $30
Web: $10 (Camelback Toyota Online Parts)
MSRP: $15

After looking up the process online I demanded they come down in price but they refused to match Camelback's price. So I said match MSRP or I am not buying from here and instantly they matched MSRP which was half what they originally wanted.


Just an FYI

:bat:
 
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