LED Light Bar Issue

harkco

harkco

New member
I recently switched out a 30" Rigid E2 Combo for a 40" Rigid SR2 Combo. I used the same wiring and everything was working fine prior to the switch. Now, periodically when I switch on the SR2 without the truck running, a small outer section of the light bar does not come on. This does not always happen and is random in occurrence. Further, starting the vehicle will immediately turn the portion that is not working on and everything then will work normally.

Does this sound more like a possible grounding issue, faulty light bar, or something else.

Thanks in advance.
 
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marshal said:
sounds like a faulty driver in the bar to me. i would consult with rigid directly
Click to expand...

That is what I'm actually hoping. I am so super OCD about my wiring, I already checked and rechecked. I sent Rigid an e-mail. We shall see.
 
This is not uncommon. I bet if you run the wiring directly to the battery it would turn the entire light bar on. There is probably just enough resistance in the wiring that its affecting the output of the 40". I had a similar issue with going from a 40" sr to a 40" E. No trouble at all with the sr, but when i switched to the e series, I experienced the exact same problem.

I ended up switching the wiring over to a higher gauge wire so that I could have it on without the truck running.
 
I had a similar issue when wiring some LED back up lights on my utility trailer.
The ground wasn't making a good connection. I redid the terminal ends (just to make sure) and reconnected to a "fresh metal" ground spot on the trailer.
No issues after that.
Grounding point is my bet!
 
Rigid's response...

"Thank you for your email request, this situation is due to you are now drawing more amps with your 40" light bar, more than your 30" was, so the vehicle will need to be running to support the amp draw on the bigger light bar.
If you have any further questions or concerns please respond back to us."

Can any of you 40" E2 guys run your light without your vehicle running? I would think so, right? Also, my issue is very intermittent - only occurring about 1 in 10 times when the vehicle is off.

And actually Rigid's response is incorrect... a 30" E2 combo has an Amp draw of 13.55 and a 40" SR2 has an Amp draw of 13.4. So I am drawing less amps with my newer bar which has the problem.
 
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Wonder if your 30" bar wiring was of a smaller guage then what is required for the 40" bar? I've been shopping around for a light bar and I've seen the companies selling a wire kit for bars upto 30" and one for bars over 30". So try larger gauge wiring
 
harkco said:
Rigid's response...

"Thank you for your email request, this situation is due to you are now drawing more amps with your 40" light bar, more than your 30" was, so the vehicle will need to be running to support the amp draw on the bigger light bar.
If you have any further questions or concerns please respond back to us."

Can any of you 40" E2 guys run your light without your vehicle running? I would think so, right? Also, my issue is very intermittent - only occurring about 1 in 10 times when the vehicle is off.

And actually Rigid's response is incorrect... a 30" E2 combo has an Amp draw of 13.55 and a 40" SR2 has an Amp draw of 13.4. So I am drawing less amps with my newer bar which has the problem.
Click to expand...

The only way I could see them making that kind of **** up is them glazing over the fact that it's an SR2 and thinking you meant a 40" E2. I would follow up with them, but also check your grounds as the others were saying. Still feel like a faulty driver is a more viable culprit
 
What gauge wire are you using?

Did you test led bar directly near the battery?

What type of relay are you using?

How is the unit wired?

How is it grounded?

How is it fused?

How is is it switched?
 
Doc_Fry said:
What gauge wire are you using?

Did you test led bar directly near the battery?

What type of relay are you using?

How is the unit wired?

How is it grounded?

How is it fused?

How is is it switched?
Click to expand...

1. Using 14 Gauge wiring

2. Same result when directly wired to the battery

3. Grounded at the rear of my Gobi rack, as well as several other lights that work fine.

4. Fused with Bussman Fused Relay terminal and using an Air On Board switch.
 
Issue with the light.

Looks as if you should be set for 30 Amps. So you should not have many issues with power drops. I would looks for a replacement. Let them know the issue is replicated when wored directly to the battery.
 
Doc_Fry said:
Issue with the light.

Looks as if you should be set for 30 Amps. So you should not have many issues with power drops. I would looks for a replacement. Let them know the issue is replicated when wored directly to the battery.
Click to expand...

Yeah - my thinking at this point also. Fortunately it was purchased through Amazon, so a replacement should fairly easy.
 
Issue should be with the light. If the entire bar had issues then it could be the wiring, but it is the internal circuitry or the "distribution" block internal to the light.
 
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