lets see your interior mods

[Anand]

How well does that V1 read through the dotted section of the windshield in front of the rear-view mirrow? I'm about to buy a V1 and I want to mount it in the same place as yours, but I don't want to negatively affect its range.

I can't say I've noticed any sort of ill effects from it, seems to read the same as it did on my last car. That being said, my windshield is tinted as well (with Llumar Air Blue 80), which also did not change the V1's sensitivity as well. Other than updating my unit (I bought my original in 2001, had it updated around 2016) and setting up custom sweeps, nothing has seemed to help/hurt the sensitivity.

Rear laser is more or less blocked by the top of the headliner, but really, if you're getting tagged by laser from behind it's a wrap already anyway.

Woah, do you have any more pictures of the Icom Mount? How did you secure it up there? I have a similar unit and would love to put it up there.

I can take some specific ones if you want. The separation cable is run up the passenger side a-pillar, across the top of the windshield, and then "over" the roof console to where it comes out. The head is just held up there by two strips of 1/2" 3M VHB tape

 

[RichinRidgewood]

I, for one, would like to see more red alligator skin trim and headliners.

 

[LakeRunr]

Exact OEM illumination of garage door opener button

Unsatisfied with the fact that my new CruiserHeads buttons' illuminiation didn't match the OEM color, I modified my custom garage door opener button with OEM LEDS harvested from other 4Runner buttons that I bought on eBay. Since I "was in there", I also modified it to double the brightness when pressed.

Here's the before picture. It's hard to tell, but the garage door opener button's blue backlight is deeper and brighter blue than the 3 OEM buttons next to it:

I first took it apart and changed the circuitry to support the "double the brightness when pressed" feature:

And here you can see where the harvested surface-mount LEDs have been mounted in place of the conventional through-hole LEDs that came in the button:

These 2 pictures show the new illumination, first with just the parking lights on, and second being pressed. The camera does not do the color justice...trust me, the unpressed color matches OEM exactly. The pressed color is double the brightness:

A quick video showing the effect (click on the picture to see the video):



And in the truck at night (click on the picture to see the video):



Showing the color match (although the camera makes the light blue look almost white):

And a daytime shot for good measure:

 

[dpsnake]

Go check out these threads for the 4th gen stuff.

DIY: Interior LED swap (cluster, HVAC, switches, window, *steering wheel)
yosh2000's ultimate LED swap info thread

Thanks!

 

[JWM816]

Unsatisfied with the fact that my new CruiserHeads buttons' illuminiation didn't match the OEM color, I modified my custom garage door opener button with OEM LEDS harvested from other 4Runner buttons that I bought on eBay. Since I "was in there", I also modified it to double the brightness when pressed.

Sooo...I have been trying to find a way to ditch my regular clicker for my garage. This looks perfect, do you have a walkthrough on how you did this? My 4R did not come with homelink if that makes a difference.

Thank you

 

[Loveparabellum]

I did all my interior lights to LEDs and Molle racks in the rear. I have more stuff mounted on the racks now but don't have a new pic.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

 

[04rnr]

Because 'America, that's why!

Fixed for ya

 

[LakeRunr]

Sooo...I have been trying to find a way to ditch my regular clicker for my garage. This looks perfect, do you have a walkthrough on how you did this?

For the opener itself, that part's a little tricky. My opener uses a 12v transmitter (the part that you would normally clip on your visor), which is kindof unusual. I soldered the push button contacts together inside the transmitter, so that it thinks the push button is always pushed. Then I soldered a red and a black wire to the + and - battery contacts (respectively) inside the transmitter (battery removed). The red wire goes to the new custom button's red/yellow wire (the one the instructions say are for the "accessory") to supply power to it when the button is pressed. The black wire taps into a white/black wire in the overhead console (ground). The green wire on the new custom button's connector (the one the instructions say are for the "source") taps into a red wire (constant 12v power) in the overhead console, so there's alway power available to the button. The transmitter is tucked up between the headliner and the roof, just to the right of the overhead module (there's a good amount if void space there).

If your transmitter runs on 3v or something other than 12v, you'll need to alter the "accessory" output somehow. PM me if you'd like suggestions on this.

I get asked about this a lot. I probably need to do a detailed writeup with pictures and variations for transmitters of different voltages.

 

[Blue 4ever Runner]

Fixed for ya

Actually, no you didn't.

 

[04rnr]

Actually, no you didn't.

I did,, not sure where you're from, or your education level, but it's America NOT merica. didnt you learn that in school?

 

[cb1111]

Because 'Merica, that's why!

Fixed for ya

Actually, no you didn't.

Actually, you are both wrong :dance:

But 04rnr is wronger.

"murica" is the correct term.

 

[Blue 4ever Runner]

I did,, not sure where you're from, or your education level, but it's America NOT merica. didnt you learn that in school?

Not sure of your education level either but America doesn't have a ' in front of it and what's with the double commas and lack of capitalization, since you decided to question my education? And cb1111 actually is correct, the slang term is 'murica. Myabe you've never heard of that where ever you're from. I'm thinking you believe it's derogatory but it isn't. Believe there's no greater patriot who loves this country more than me. Now lets get away from this distraction and back to the original theme of the thread.

 

[Ripper238]

Glove Box Organizer:

Center console tray:

Wireless charger mount:

Also installed my BlackView dash cam, V1 & RedLine radar detector as well as my ALP Lidar jammers (3 heads) same configuration as my old car:

 

[LakeRunr]

V1 & RedLine radar detector

2 radar detectors? Please explain.

 

[Firesq14]

light switches

Nice switches, where did you get those specific ones?

 

[JWM816]

For the opener itself, that part's a little tricky. My opener uses a 12v transmitter (the part that you would normally clip on your visor), which is kindof unusual. I soldered the push button contacts together inside the transmitter, so that it thinks the push button is always pushed. Then I soldered a red and a black wire to the + and - battery contacts (respectively) inside the transmitter (battery removed). The red wire goes to the new custom button's red/yellow wire (the one the instructions say are for the "accessory") to supply power to it when the button is pressed. The black wire taps into a white/black wire in the overhead console (ground). The green wire on the new custom button's connector (the one the instructions say are for the "source") taps into a red wire (constant 12v power) in the overhead console, so there's alway power available to the button. The transmitter is tucked up between the headliner and the roof, just to the right of the overhead module (there's a good amount if void space there).

If your transmitter runs on 3v or something other than 12v, you'll need to alter the "accessory" output somehow. PM me if you'd like suggestions on this.

I get asked about this a lot. I probably need to do a detailed writeup with pictures and variations for transmitters of different voltages.

Thanks for the info, mine is 3v. So you have the board from your original opener up in your console behind the button then correct?

 

[LakeRunr]

Thanks for the info, mine is 3v. So you have the board from your original opener up in your console behind the button then correct?

Yes, my whole original garage door opener transmitter is stuffed up in the void between the passenger's headliner and the roof.

Since yours is 3v, there are some old GPS units that worked off of 3v DC. You can probably find a replacement power cord for one of them and harvest out the 12v-to-3v coverter out of it. The basic component is just a 12v-to-3v voltage regulator, which looks like a chip with 3 legs on it.

 

[Ripper238]

2 radar detectors? Please explain.

I generally prefer the V1 for its arrows and situational awareness. But the RedLine is fully stealth (Cannot be detected by a radar detector detector) if i am going through a state/country (VA/Canada) where they are illegal and can be detected.

Its also a good backup if the V1 goes down.

 

[dade73]

Nice switches, where did you get those specific ones?

several options:
Amazon
CH4x4
aironboard

Just ensure you order the "SMALL" push switch.
CH4x4 will let you customize pics and text. but you pay a little more. Aironboard doesn't let you customize but has many options
Amazon is just the CH4x4 small push switches. sometimes a bit cheaper then ch4x4 but no customization

 

[Rynooo]

I generally prefer the V1 for its arrows and situational awareness. But the RedLine is fully stealth (Cannot be detected by a radar detector detector) if i am going through a state/country (VA/Canada) where they are illegal and can be detected.

Its also a good backup if the V1 goes down.

Damn, how fast are you driving?