License plate bolt is a #6 Metric

S

Sungod

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This is a case of how to turn a simple screw replacement 30 second screw replacement into a 4hr ordeal. I know this because after noticing my screws that hold on the rear license plate have been rusting, and not removed for 9 years I finally got around to replacing them. Stripped the first one and had to get out the vice grips. With some force it finally turned, and then on to the next one. I skipped the screw driver and went right with the vice grips. A little more force followed by a snap and I had the head of the screw in my hand.

Stupid me tried an easy out which never works. I should have known better. Drilled it out and that was followed by snapping off the easy out. Next step was to pull the rear panel to see if I could get to the back of the screw. I got it and put the vice grips on then twist and snap. The screw broke mainly from the hole I had drilled in it. I probably should have pulled the rear panel off before trying the easy out, but who knows. The screw was rusted in pretty solid.

The last result was getting the drill back out and a tap. That is when I found that the tap is a #6 Metric just in case anyone else that lives in the northeast didn't think to use stainless screws on their license plate.

I realize this is about as lame as a post about changing you oil or how many miles you have on your battery so I apologize, but it may be worth your time to pull your screws and put some anti-seize on them.
 
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I tried to put license plate covers on my 4runner about a month ago. The front was a piece of cake....I ran into the same problem with the rear bolts. So I gave up until the weather was warmer and a couple hours to spell on a weekend.....Still waiting. Maybe this weekend. Thanks for a couple of tips.
 
Sounds like a case if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Sorry to hear about that though. Its the smallest things that are the hardest.
 
This happened to me when I installed my backup camera. Rusted screws, the first one came out but the head (phillips) was all mangled. the second head striped, so I got a bigger screwdriver and snapped the head off. Screw extractor didn't work because there really wasn't anything to grab so I drilled through it. Went to Lowe's and you can't buy a single M6 tap there.... Nope, ya gotta buy an entire $40 metric tap and dye set. I was tempted to return it since I fixed it in the parking lot, but decided to keep it. Replaced the phillips head screws with some hex head bolts.

I feel your pain man. It sucks!
 
MikeInNH said:
I tried to put license plate covers on my 4runner about a month ago. The front was a piece of cake....I ran into the same problem with the rear bolts. So I gave up until the weather was warmer and a couple hours to spell on a weekend.....Still waiting. Maybe this weekend. Thanks for a couple of tips.
Click to expand...

You could also try soaking the screws from the back side before you put any force on the head if you really wanted to get them off properly. If I had to do it again, I would just twist them off then drill and re-tap the hole. It would have taken less time.

chris360hawks said:
Sounds like a case if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Sorry to hear about that though. Its the smallest things that are the hardest.
Click to expand...

LOL. You sound like my wife. She said "so tell me again why you had to take the license plate off?"
 
And this is why I love this site! When something happens to my truck and I think to myself "Am I the only guy that this has ever happened to??" I then start doing some research and find that the same thing has happened to a bunch of other guys, and someone has found a way to correct the problem!

Same thing happened to me last night at 11pm. This is my work truck and I'm working the next morning. Luckily I always have a roll of Gorilla Tape handy. It doesn't look too Ghetto Fabulous since it sort of kinda blends very slightly with the Mica color, lol....

I just want Sungod to know that this is not a lame post! A guy like myself who never posts, but visits the site regularly has once again found the way to correct an issue that happened to my truck. Along with saving a grip of cash!

I now have my weekend project lined up and a plan to go along with it as well!
 
You mean everyone DOESN'T change their license plate screws to hex head bolts made of stainless to prevent this from happening when they buy their 4Runner?!

OMG! RTFM GUYS! SEARCH! ECT ECT ECT!

Okay, sarcastic rant over. Those stupid screws are a pain, #6 Metric huh? Yeah, been there with customer cars... I have no clue why the dealerships (ours included) can't be bothered to use stainless hardware on bits like the license plates... particularly in states where corrosion is an issue.

That being said... I am going to now look for some hex head stainless bolts to replace my rear screws with, since I hadn't even thought of it. :D
 
License Plate Screws

I don't think this is a wasted thread,as I stripped phillip heads and drilled and easy out isn't working. To start ,you can't get penetrating oil to screw from outside because dealer put on their advertising license plate frame. The real cure would be if Toyota would have used plastic inserts like every other maker, so they could be replaced. Toyota could have included stainless steel screws with rubber washers to prevent rain, water, slush,or car wash water from entering those threads. What a PITA to change my plates out this year on the rear, the front was a breeze with those plastic inserts.
Thanks , Stan
 
I fought with the same problem. Lots of PB blaster and mine finally screwed in/out. Also, make sure you don't use long screws...cause it'll scratch your glass when you roll it down. This one was a stupid moment for Toyota engineers. A plastic molded license plate holder was too much to ask? Seriously? Every vehicle on the market has a good mounting solution for the rear plate. Hell, might as well ditch the screws and just 3M tape the plate straight to the body. Your paint is going to get torn up either way.
 
Clarification on bolt size

Just a quick clarification. The bolt size is M6x1.00. Not sure on the length because I had to cut mine off, drill them out and re-tap as well. Did it when installing a backup camera, so I got 25mm length replacements. A little longer than the originals that were probably 15mm or close to that.
 
No such thing as a #6 screw in metric. I'm assuming it's a 6 mm x 1.0 mm thread, which is pretty standard for small fasteners on metric vehicles.


Just so someone doesn't get all confused looking for a tap or bolt, given an imperial #6 is less than 1/8" in diameter and 6 mm is a little under 1/4" in diameter.
 
Glad this got bumped up. Bought my 4Runner with a broken off screw head for the license plate. Someone tried tapping it then gave up. Good to see the panel can come off and get to the back of the screw.
 
Yeah, sorry....meant 6mm x 1.00mm. I only went 25mm in length because the backup camera goes over the license plate and its over 1/4 inch thick. Otherwise, 15mm would probably be the length you want.
 
Of all the things that could go wrong with these machines, it happens to be something simple like this.

Had to clean up the threads and use new stainless hardware like others. I like the rubber washer idea. Might go back this weekend and add them.
 
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